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DECK    AND    PORT; 


OR, 


INCIDENTS  OF  A  CRUISE 


UNITED  STATES  FRIGATE  CONGRESS 


CALIFORNIA. 


WITH  SKETCHES  OF  RIO  JANEIRO,  VALPARAISO,  LIMA,  HONOLULU, 
AND  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


BT 

REV.  WALTER;  COLTON,  TT.  S.  N., 

ii'iiwi.  or  u_'i. p  a>t  Fi'nRK,'  etc 


NEW   YORK: 
PUBLISHED    BY    A.  S.  BARNES    &    CO., 

NO.  51     JOHN-STREET. 

CINCINNATI:— II.  \V.  DERBY  &.  CO. 

1854. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  Eighteen  Hundred  and  fifty, 

By  A.  S.  BARNES  &  COMPANY, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  the  Southern 
District  of  New  York. 


RICHARD   C.  VALENTINE. 
Nsw  York 

Printer, 
no.  SI  John-itrett,  corner  of  Dutch. 


I  %54~ 


TO 

THOMAS,  I.  WHARTON,    ESQ. 

OF     PHILADELPHIA, 

$l)is  Uolumc 

IS  MOST  RESPECTFULLY  DEDICATED 


BY    HIS   FRIEND 


THE   AUTHOR. 


PREFACE. 


On  joining  the  United  States  frigale  Con- 
gress, fitting  for  sea,  at  Norfolk,  and  destined 
to  the  Pacific,  I  commenced  a  journal,  in  which 
I  sketched  down  the  incidents  of  each  day,  as 
they  occurred.  It  was  more  a  whim  of  the 
hour,  than  any  purpose  connected  with  the 
public  press.  It  was  a  diverting  experiment 
on  the  monotony  of  a  sea-life  ;  was  continued 
because  it  had  been  begun — and  the  present 
volume  is  the  result.  The  streamlet  flows 
from  gathered  drops. 

I  send  it  to  the  press  as  it  was  written,  ex- 
cept the  division  into  chapters,  which  has  been 
made  at  the  suggestion  of  the  publishers,  who 
perhaps,  think  the  yarn  will  reel  better  if  the 


PREFACE. 


thread  be  .broken.  It  undoubtedly  contains 
passages  which  may  seem  light  and  irrelevant ; 
but  a  diary  has  privileges,  in  this  respect, 
which  are  not  extended  to  compositions  of  a 
graver  character.  He  who  gathers  what  the 
chance  wind  may  shake  from  the  trees  of  his 
garden,  will  find  some  leaves  as  well  as  fruit  in 
his  basket ;  and  he  may  find  there  the  nest  of 
some  insect  that  has  a  sting  in  it,  but  this  he 
has  no  right  to  send  to  market.  He  may  send 
the  leaves — perhaps  their  sear  hues  may  set  off 
the  bloom  of  his  fruit,  as  a  wrinkle  the  rouge 
through  which  age  sometimes  seeks  to  blush 
back  again  into  youth. 

The  members  of  Congress  are  responsible 
for  any  typographical  errors  which  the  volume 
may  contain,  for  they  so  lumbered  the  mails, 
between  Washington— where  the  proofs  were 
sent — and  New  York,  with  their  speeches,  that 
my  publishers  had  about  as  little  chance  of 
getting  a  corrected  copy  through  this  travel- 


PREFACE. 


ling  Babel,  as  they  would  have  had  in  finding 
a  righteous  man  in  Sodom  after  Lot  had  left. 
I  know  it  seems  cruel  to  roll  the  responsibility 
of  blunders  on  a  body  of  men  who  have  errors 
enough  of  their  own  to  answer  for.  But  the 
evil  one  himself  is  held  accountable  for  the 
sins  of  half  the  world. 

Having  thus  conveniently  disposed  of  all 

« 

responsibility,  I  leave  my  Deck  and  Port  to 

the   wave    and    strand,    where   they   belong. 

Wreckers  will  receive  no  salvage  from  me — 

they   must   make   the   most   of    the    floating 

plauks.     I  only  ask  them  not  to  scuttle  the 

craft  before  she  strikes. 

w.  o. 


NOTE. 

The  incidents  which  connected  the  officers  of  the  Pacific  Squadron  and  of  the 
army,  and  many  other  prominent  personal  with  public  events  in  California)  are  not 
reached  by  the  Diary  of  this  volume;  they  fall  within  the  three  veurs  which  ore 
reserved  for  another  work,  entitled  "  Three  Years  in  California? 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. — Preparations  for  the  voyage. 

Orders  to  the  Congress. — Passengers'  poop-cabin. — Passing  U.  S. 
ship  Pennsylvania. — Divine  Bervice. — Waiting  the  wind. — Hip- 
raps. — Internal  arrangements. — Library  of  the  crew. — Ship 
cheered. — Departure  of  the  pilot Page     13 

CHAPTER  II. — Passage  from  Norfolk  to  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

A  culprit. — Corporal  punishments. — Divine  service. — A  bird. — A 
gale. — Grandeur  of  the  Gulf  stream. — Man  missing. — Tracts  on 
board. —  Waterspout — Life  at  sea. — An  eclipse. — The  sick- 
bay.— Mural  mechanism  of  a  man-of-war. — Speaking  a  brig. — 
Departure  of  Mr.  Beale. — Death  of  Spillier. — Astor-IIouse 
sailor. — rjoiversalist  chaplain, — A  petrel. — Speaking  a  ship. — 
Departure  of  Mr.  Nbms. — Crossing  the  equator. — Southern 
constellations. — A  man  lost. — Land-ho  ! 22 

CHAPTER  III.— Rio  de  Janeiro. 

Bay  of  Rio. — Scenery. — Aspect  of  the  city. — Royal  palace  and 
chapel. — Lancers  and  baby. — Miseracordia.—  Aqueduct.— Morn- 
ing ride. — Botanic  garden. — Tea-plant. — The  Sabbath  in  Rio. — 
Museum. — Nunnery. — Fealousy  of  husbands. — A  pompous  fu- 
neral.— The  Plymouth. — Hon.  Henry  A.  Wise.— Slave-trade. — 
Marriages  and  domestic  arrangements. — Political  condition  of 
the  Brazilians. — Treatment  of  the  slaves.— Religion. — Washer- 
women.— San  Antonio. — Climate. — The  unknown  couple. — 
Diamonds. —  Farewell  to  Kio 86 

CHAPTER  IV.— Passage  from  Rio  to  Cafe  Horn. 

Getting  under  way. — The  letter-hag — Runaway  sailor. — Isle  of 
St  Catharine. —  Pamperoes. — The  shotted  '_r,m. —  Loss  of  our 
coon. — The  sailor  ami  shark. — General  quarters  at  night — 
Fireworks  in  the  sea. — The  phantom  ship. — Patagonians. — 

The  Falkland  Islands. — The  captured  alhatros. — Terrific  gale. 
— Condition  of  our  frigate. — The  sailor's  burial. — The  cape  of 
storms  125 


10  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  V. — Passage  from  Cape  Horn  to  Valparaiso 

Gale. — Habits  of  the  albatros  and  penguin. — the  sea  off  Cape 
Hom. — Sleet  and  hail. — Farewell  to  the  Cape. — Directions  for 
doubling  the  Cape. — Gale  in  the  Pacific. — Appearance  of  the 
stars. — A  rainbow. — Divine  service. — The  razor  at  sea. — 'Die 
little  bark. — Plum  pudding  and  tripe. — The  Cordilleras. — Ar- 
rival at  Valparaiso Page  156 

CHAPTER  VI. — Sketches  of  Valparaiso. 

Aspect  of  the  city. — Groups  on  the  quay. — Chilian  horsemanship. 
— The  women. — Huts  of  the  natives. — American  and  English 
society. — Opera-house. — The  tertulia. — Mode  of  travelling. — 
Police  of  the  city. — Visits  from  the  shore. — Feudal  system. — 
The  clergy. — The  Bible  in  Chili. — The  confessional. — Burial 
ground. — The  Indian  mother. — Political  condition  of  Chili — 
Farewell  to  Valparaiso 191 

CHAPTER  VIL — Passage  from  Valparaiso  to  Callao. 

Flare  up  of  the  Pacific. — Songs  of  seamea — Sailors  on  shore. — 
Loss  of  the  Samson  of  our  ship. — The  setting  sun  at  sea. — Our 
Astor- House  sailor. — The  mad  poet  of  the  crew. — Land  ho  ! — 
Aspect  of  Callao. — Appearance  of  the  natives. — The  burial 
isle  219 


CHAPTER  Vin.— Sketches  of  Lima. 

Incidents  of  the  road. — The  grand  plaza. — Shops  and  houses. — 
The  saya  y  manto. — American  lady. — Mixture  of  races. — De- 
meanor of  girls  and  boys. — Procession  on  Palm  Sunday. — Con- 
vent of  the  Franciscans. — Doctors  of  Lima. — Good  Friday. — 
The  Last  Supper. — Pilate's  court. — Garden  of  Gethsemane. — 
Close  of  Lent — Jubilations. — Climate. — An  officer  in  prison. — 
Lawyers. — The  Indian's  eyrie. — Lottery. — Bull-fight 2Z4 

CHAPTER  IX— Sketches  of  Lima. 

Education  of  females. — Marriages. — Lapses  from  virtue. — The 
sunset  bell. — Silk  factory  in  a  convent. — Habits  of  the  Indians. 
— The  half  wedlock. — Blind  pedler. — Protestant  youth  in  Li- 
ma.— Religion  of  the  Limanians. — Intrigues  at  court. — Modes 
of  living. — The  Zampas. — Churches. — Indian  doctors. — Fruits 
of  the  country. — Old  Spanish  families. — Masses  for  the  repose 
of  the  soul 265 


CONTENTS.  11 


CHAPTER  X. — Passage  from  Callao  to  Honolulu. 

Departure  from  Callao. — The  rum  smuggler. — Sunset. — Sea-birds. 
— A  sailor's  defence. — General  quarters. — Spirit  ration. — The 
sailor  and  religion. — The  flag. — Sagacity  of  the  rat. — The 
cloud. — Calms  and  showers. —  Religious  tracts. — Constellations. 
— Trade-winds. — Conduct  of  the  crew. — Moon  in  the  zenith. — 
Lay  sermon. — Funeral. — Land  ho! Page  299 

CHAPTER  XI.— Sketches  of  Honolulu. 

Bay  of  Honolulu. — Kanacka  funeral. — The  missionaries. — Huts 
and  habits  of  the  natives. — Taro-plant. —  Roast  dog. — School  of 
the  young  chiefs. — Ride  in  the  country.— The  Mausoleum. — 
Cocoanut-tree.- — Canoes. — Heathen  temple. — King's  chapel. — 
Ride  to  Ewa. — Father  Bishop. — His  sable  flock  328 

CHAPTER  XII. — Sketches  of  Honolulu. 

The  king  and  court.— American  commissioner. — Royal  residence. 
— The  salt  lake. — Surf  sports  of  the  natives. — Grata  day. — The 
women  on  horseback.— {Sailor's  equestrianism. — The  old  man 

ami  the  children  at  play. — Address  of  Com.  Stockton. — Capt. 
La  Place. — His  Jesuits  and  brandy. — Lord  George  Paulet  —   348 

CHAPTER  XIII. — Passage  from  Honolulu  to  Monterey. 

The  moral  pharos. — The  Mormon  ship. — Bible  class. — The  sea- 
hen. — Our  insane  sailor. — Fourth  of  July. —  Profaneness  at  sea. 
—  Evening  prayer-meeting. — Funeral. — Target  tiring. — Reli- 
gious condition  of  the  crew. — Anchor  under  Monterey 367 

CHAPTER  XIV.— Glances  into  California. 

Sailors  on  shore  as  soldiers. — The  bear  flag. — Capt.  Fremont  and 
armed  band. —  Departure  of  Admiral  Seymour. — San  Francis- 
co.— Aspect  of  the  town.— Habits  of  the  people. —  Spirit  of 
speculation — Gambling.— Effects  of  the  gold  mines. — Past  and 
present  condition  of  the  country  386 


BRITISH      {  \  ^^ 

AMERICA,    ^v-         \  // 


PACIFIC 
OCEAN. 


VALPARAISO/ 

SuLNOJAYRi*. 


C  .HORN 


■XStS 


DECK   AND   PORT. 


CHAPTER   I. 

PREPARATIONS  POR  THE  VOYAGE. 

ORDERS  TO  THE  CONGRESS. PASSENGERS'  POOP-CABIN. PASSING  U.  8.  SHIT 

PENNSYLVANIA. DIVINE   BERVICE. WAITING    THE    WIND. RIP-RAPS. — 

INTERNAL  ARRANGEMENTS. — LIBRARY  OF  THE  CREW. SUIF  CHEERED. 

DEPARTURE  OF  THE  FILOT. 

To  sea  t  to  sea !  thy  sort  shore  life 

Must  wrestle  on  the  deck, 
Where  winds  and  waters  meet  in  strife, 

To  revel  o'er  the  wreck. 

While  enjoying  the  luxury  of  sea-bathing  at  Sa- 
chem's Head,  I  received  an  order  to  report  for  duty 
on  board  the  U.  S.  Frigate  Congress,  fitting  for  sea  | 
at  Norfolk.  The  order  came  as  unexpectedly  as 
thunder  out  of  a  cloudless  sky.  But  never  having 
declined  an  order  of  the  department  during  the  many 
years  that  I  have  been  in  the  navy,  I  determined  not 
to  dishonor  a  good  rule  on  this  occasion,  and  in- 
formed the  secretary  that  I  should  report  agreeable 
to  his  instructions,  but  requested  the  indulgence  of 
a  few  days  in  which  to  make  my  preparations.  The 
reply  was,  that  the  ship  was  ready  for  sea,  tlntt  the 

2 


14  DECK   AND  PORT. 


other  officers  were  on  board,  and  I  must  hasten  at 
once  to  my  post.  My  trunks  were  immediately 
packed,  my  books  boxed,  and  in  twenty-four  hours  I 
was  on  bqprd  the  Congress.  Home,  and  all  that 
makes  that  home  dear,  exchanged  at  once  for  the 
bustle  of  a  man-of-war !  It  was  like  throwing  a  bird 
from  its  nest  upon  the  whirlwind :  not  that  I  have 
any  thing  in  common  with  a  bird,  unless  it  be  a  sort 
of  involuntary  cheerfulness  when  the  storm-cloud 
has  passed.  I  have  never  yet  met  with  a  picture  all 
the  features  of  which  were  dark.  There  is  a  star 
even  in  the  night  of  the  grave. 

I  found  the  frigate  nearly  ready  for  sea.  The 
honorable  secretary,  as  if  to  hasten  our  departure, 
paid  us  a  farewell  visit.  We  returned  the  compli- 
ment in  a  parting  salute.  We  were  now  ready  to 
weigh  anchor  and  make  sail,  when  an  order  came 
for  us  to  take  out  as  passengers  a  commissioner  and 
a  consul  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  with  their  families, 
twelve  individuals  in  all.  The  question  was,  where 
shall  they  be  accommodated?  Every, part  of  the 
ship  was  already  occupied.  Another  order  soon 
came  for  the  construction  of  a  poop-cabin.  Some 
thirty  carpenters  were  immediately  set  at  work,  but 
its  completion  occupied  three  weeks.  In  the  mean 
time  some  of  the  officers,  whose  homes  were  less  re- 
mote, had  an  opportunity  of  visiting  their  families. 
I  was   enabled  to  finish   my  preparations,  complete 


PREPARATIONS    FOR  THE   VOYAGE.  15 

my  wardrobe,  and  take  a  decent  leave  of  one  from 
whom  I  had  been  hurried  away  as  the  culprit, 

"Who  fitted  the  halter  and  traversed  the  cart, 
And  often  looked  back  as  if  loath  to  depart." 

Saturday,  Oct.  25,  1845.  The  poop-cabin  being 
finished,  commissioner,  consul,  and  families,  quarter- 
ed in  it,  stores  laid  in,  the  commodore  on  board,  an 
order  was  given  to  unmoor.  In  a  few  minutes  our 
anchors  were  up  and  we  were  proceeding  under  a 
light  land-breeze  towards  the  sea.  Passing  the  Penn- 
sylvania, where  she  lay  in  her  majesty  and  strength, 
we  gave  her  a  parting  salute,  which  she  returned  in 
thunder  from  her  frowning  batteries.  She  frowned 
not  on  us;  she  seemed  to  grieve,  "if  aught  inani- 
mate e'er  grieves,"  that  she  must  lie  there  and  rot, 
and  we  be  bounding  over  the  billows.  She  seemed 
like  a  daring  eagle  that  has  never  been  permitted  to 
soar  into  its  element  and  unfurl  its  strong  pinions 
on  the  storm.  The  Titan  chained  to  the  Caucasian,* 
rock  stayed  his  proud  heart  on  his  past  triumphs,  but 
this  noble  ship  perishes  without  a  solitary  achieve- 
ment to  relieve  her  indignant  doom.  On  reaching 
Hampton  Roads  the  wind  came  out  ahead,  and  we 
were  obliged  to  let  go  our  anchors.  An  air  of  dis- 
appointment was  visible  among  the  crew.  I  once 
started  on  a  journey  in  a  splendid  carriage,  broke 
down  in  sight  of  my  own  home,  and  learned  a  lesson 


10  DECK  AND  TORT. 


of  submission    that   will    never   wholly  desert   me. 
Calamities  are  our  best  instructors. 

Sunday,  Oct.  26.  The  wind  still  ahead.  This 
being  the  sabbath,  we  had  divine  service.  The 
crew  were  attentive :  not  the  rustle  of  a  hand  or 
foot  disturbed  the  stillness ;  the  speaker's  voice  only 
broke  the  silence  of  the  deck.  The  text  was  the  in- 
junction of  the  prophet,  "  Go  up  now,  look  towards 
the  sea."  The  object  of  the  speaker  was  to  sketch 
the  stern  magnificence  of  the  ocean  as  illustrating 
the  majesty  of  God  ;  to  exhibit  the  effects  of  an 
ocean  life  on  the  social  and  moral  character  of  man  ; 
and  to  inculcate  the  great  lesson,  that  into  whatever 
climes  we  may  penetrate,  through  whatever  seas  we 
may  pass,  we  cannot  escape  from  the  presence  of 
the  Deity.  The  effects  of  our  moral  teachings  may 
in  many  instances  never  be  revealed  in  this  life,  but 
the  time  will  come,  when  they  will  be  fully  recog- 
nised. They  are  like  underground  streams  which 
will  yet  rush  to  the  light. 

Monday,  Oct.  27.  Still  in  Hampton  Roads.  The 
day  has  passed  with  scarce  a  breath  of  wind  from 
any  quarter.  The  sun  has'set  in  gorgeous  splendor. 
Evening  has  spread  its  pui'ple  light  over  sea  and 
land.  Only  here  and  there  a  cloud  floats  through 
the  star-lit  depths  of  heaven.     The  fortress  of  the 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  THE  VOYAGE.  17 

old  Rip-raps  lifts  its  giant  form  in  savage  grandeur 
from  the  wave ;  and  yet  the  moonlight  sleeps  upon 
it  so  lovingly,  you  half  forget  its  chained  thunder. 
It  seems  as  some  submarine  monster  that  had  shoved 
its  head  up  through  the  sea,  to  glance  at  the  won- 
ders of  earth.  Gaze  on,  thou  Titan  of  the  deep! 
Thou  nearest  not  the  death-knell  which  shakes  the 
heart  of  nations  :  thou  seest  only  the  verdure  which 
waves  in  fragrant  life  and  beauty  over  the  dust  of 
ages.  Thou  heedest  not  the  sorrows  of  the  millions 
that  have  sunk  to  the  silent  shroud.  Earth  is  a 
charnel-house,  but  thou  knowest  it  not.  It  is  death's 
empire.  Go  look  into  some  world  where  sin  hath 
not  been,  and  where  man  has  not  marred  the  works 
of  his  Maker. 

Tuesday,  Oct.  28.  Our  ship  still  riding  in  the 
Roads,  with  forty  sail  around  wind-bound  like  our- 
selves. We  went  to  general  quarters  at  ten  o'clock, 
exercised  the  guns,  passed  powder,  called  away  the 
boarders,  and  went  through  all  the  forms  of  a  real 
engagement  at  sea.  It  is  singular  what  an  enthusi- 
asm even  a  mimic  battle  can  create ;  what  then 
must  be  the  excitement  of  the  reality !  The  sailors 
are  proud  of  our  frigate  ;  and  well  may  they  be  ;  she 
is  a  splendid  specimen  of  naval  architecture.  For 
capacity,  strength,  and  harmony  of  proportions,  she 
stands  in    her  class  without  a  rival  in  the  world. 

2* 


18  DECK   AND  PORT. 


She  is  so  much  a  favorite  in  the  service  that  one  old 
sailor  travelled  all  the  way  from  Pensacola  to  Nor- 
folk in  the  mail  stage,  and  at  his  own  expense,  tD 
join  her.  We  had  our  complement  of  seamen,  but 
his  was  so  strong  a  case  he  could  not  be  denied. 

We  number  about  five  hundred  souls,  all  told; 
have  laid  in  provisions  and  fuel  for  five  months,  with 
fifty  thousand  gallons  of  water,  and  sails  and  rigging 
sufficient  to  replace  what  is  now  in  use,  should  emer- 
gency demand.  How  such  a  mass  of  life  and  mate- 
rial can  be  brought  within  a  frigate's  capacity,  and 
yet  leave  "  scope  and  verge"  enough  for  action  and 
repose,  is  a  mystery  which  can  be  comprehended 
only  by  those  who  are  versed  in  nautical  economy. 
The  housewife  who  grumbles  over  the  intrusion  of 
an  additional  piece  of  furniture,  should  look  into  a 
man-of-war,  and  she  will  go  home  with  the  convic- 
tion that  she  can  sleep  quite  comfortably  in  the 
cradle  with  her  infant.  How  beautiful  is  an  infant 
waking  out  of  its  sweet  slumber,  and  opening  its 
soft  blue  eyes  upon  the  face  of  its  mother!  But 
what  has  this  to  do  with  our  getting  under  way  ? 

Wednesday,  Oct.  29.  Our  anchors  still  sleep  in 
the  sands  of  Hampton  Roads — a  slumber  which  we 
now  think  the  morrow  will  break.  The  wind  has 
been  light  and  varying,  but  inclining  towards  the 
right   quarter,   though    hesitatingly,    as    a   diffident 


PREPARATIONS   FOR  THE   VOYAGE.  19 

youth  in  his  first  declaration  of  love.  How  the 
words  on  such  an  occasion  will  stick  in  a  man's 
throat ! — worse,  indeed,  than  Macbeth's  prayer,  try- 
ing to  struggle  up  from  the  grasp  of  his  guilty  con- 
science. 

I  have  been  occupied  to-day  in  arranging  in  suit- 
able cases  the  library  of  the  crew — a  library  com- 
prising between  three  and  four  hundred  volumes. 
For  many  of  the  miscellaneous  and  religious  books 
in  this  library  I  am  indebted  to  the  Presbyterian 
Board  of  Publication,  to  the  Sunday  School  Union, 
to  the  American  Tract  Society,  and  to  the  liberality 
of  Commodore  Stockton.  My  acknowledgments  are 
also  due  to  the  American  Bible  Societv  for  a  dona- 
tion  of  Bibles  adequate  to  the  wants  of  the  crew. 
No  national  ship  ever  left  a  port  of  the  United  States 
more  amply  provided  with  books  suited  to  the  habits 
and  capacities  of  those  on  board.  This  desideratum 
has  been  supplied,  so  far  as  the  crew  is  concerned, 
with  comparatively  little  aid  from  the  department. 
The  government  furnishes  trie  sailor  with  grog  to 
burn  up  his  body,  a  Christian  liberality  with  books 
to  save  his  soul.  The  whisky  ration  is  a  curse  to 
the  service,  and  a  damning  blot  on  our  national 
legislation. 

Thursday,  Oct.  30.  The  long  looked  for  breeze 
came  at  last.     It  was  a  south-wester ;  and  at  day- 


20  DECK   AND  TORT. 


light  this  morning  we  weighed  anchor  and  got  under 
way.  When  we  had  cleared  the  capes  of  Old  Vir- 
ginia, all  hands  were  called,  and  Commodore  Stock- 
ton delivered  the  following  brief  and  appropriate 
address  to  the  officers  and  crew  : — 

"  Captain  Du  Pont  and  officers — 

"  Your  reputation  in  the  service  is  a  sufficient 
guaranty  that  the  cruise  before  us  will  enlist  your 
highest  energies  and  zeal. 

"  Men — 

"  Your  conduct  since  you  have  been  on  board  this 
ship  justifies  the  strongest  confidence  in  your  fidelity. 
Above  us  floats  the  flag  of  our  country ;  to  your 
patriotism  and  undaunted  valor  I  intrust  its  honor, 
dearer  to  me  than  life.  We  now  sail  for  California 
and  Oregon,  and  then,  where  it  may  please  Heaven." 

Then,  turning  to  the  chaplain,  he  said — 

"  You  will  offer  up  our  prayers  to  Almighty  God 


for  his  protection." 


ou 


This  service  performed,  the  broad  pennant  was 
saluted,  the  ship  cheered,  and  the  band  struck  up 
"  Hail  Columbia." 

The  whole  ceremony  was  well  calculated  to  inspire 
a  jealous  regard  for  the  honor  of  our  flag,  and  impress 
sentiments  of  dependence  on  the  divine  protection — 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  THE  VOYAGE.  21 

so  well  becoming  those  who  go  down  to  the  sea  in 
ships,  who  do  business  on  the  great  waters,  and  who 
see  the  wonders  of  the  Lord  in  the  deep. 

Commodore  Stockton  invited  the  officers  into  the 
cabin  to  an  elegant  entertainment.  Sentiments 
connected  with  country,  home,  and  those  left  behind, 
passed  feelingly  around.  The  pilot  now  took  his  de- 
parture with  our  letter-bag.  How  many  affections, 
hopes,  and  fears,  that  little  hasty  mail  took  back !  If 
you  would  know  how  dear  home  is,  start  on  a  three 
years'  cruise.  How  the  heart  clings  to  the  living, 
recalls  the  dead,  and  restores  the  forgotten !  How 
all  animosities  die  and  give  place  to  love !  I  do  not 
wonder  the  Greek  and  Roman  dreaded  exile  more 
than  death.     What  is  earth  without  a  home  ? 

Farewell !  the  shore  is  fading  fast, 

The  wind  is  piping  free, 
The  pennant,  from  our  gallant  mast, 

Points  to  the  dark  blue  sea. 


22 


CHAPTER  II. 

PASSAGE  FR03I  NORFOLK  TO  RIO  DE  JANEIRO. 

A     CULPRIT. CORPORAL     PUNISHMENTS. DIVINE     SERVICE. A      BIRD. A 

GALE. — GRANDEUR    OF   THE    GULF  "STREAM. — MAN    MISSING. TRACTS    ON 

BOARD. WATER-SPOUT. LIFE  AT  SEA. AN  ECLIPSE. — THE   SICK    BAY. 

MORAL  MECHANISM  OF  A  MAN-OF-WAR. SPEAKING  A  BRIG. DEPARTURE 

OF   MO.   BEALE. DEATH    OF    SriLLIER. — ASTOR-HOUSE    SAILOR. UNIVER- 

SALIST   CHAPLAIN. — A   PETREL. — SPEAKING  A  SHIP. DEPARTURE   OF  MR. 

NORRIS. — CROSSING  THE  EQUATOR. SOUTHERN  CONSTELLATIONS. A  MAX 

LOST. LAND  HO  ! 

"The  ship  was  cheered,  the  harbor  cleared, 
And  merrily  did  we  drop 
Below  the  kirk,  below  Hie  hill, 
Below  the  lighthouse  top." 

Friday,  Oct.  31.  A  brilliant  soft  atmosphere;  a 
light  breeze  from  the  southwest ;  average  log,  three 
knots  ;  sounded  in  thirty-six  fathoms  ;  a  sand  and 
shell  bottom;  exercised  the  men  at  the  guns  from  10 
to  12  o'clock ;  loaded  the  guns  a  little  before  sunset. 
One  of  the  crew,  after  nightfall,  watched  his  opportu- 
nity and  knocked  down  a  marine.  The  aggressor  is 
one  of  those  hardened  fellows  where  the  hope  of  re- 
formation seems  to  despair  in  its  work.  He  was 
flogged  but  a  few  days  since  for  an  aggravated 
offense.  He  has  cruised  before,  and  been  notorious 
for  his  bad  conduct.     The  best  thing  that  could  be 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  23 


done  with  him  would  be  to  turn  him  out  of  the  ship, 
but  the  law  don't  allow  this.  The  next  best  thing  is 
to  try  him  by  a  court-martial,  and  award  him  a  pun- 
ishment that  will  linger  with  terror  in  his  memory. 
I  am  opposed  to  severity  when  milder  measures  will 
avail ;  but  leniency  to  the  incorrigible  is  destructive 
of  discipline. 

Corporal  punishments  are  opposed  to  the  spirit  of 
the  age ;  but  he  would  be  worthy  a  monument  who 
could  invent  an  adequate  substitute  on  board  a  man- 
of-war.  It  is  easy  to  pull  down  a  house,  but  not  so 
easy  to  build  another  on  its  ruins.  Still  the  power 
to  inflict  corporal  punishment  is  so  liable  to  abuse, 
and  is  so  often  abused,  I  do  not  wonder  public  senti- 
ment seems  to  demand  its  abolition.  Could  sailors 
be  brought  thoroughly  under  moral  influences,  it 
might  be  easily  dispensed  with.  Virtue  has  motives 
and  impulses  to  good  conduct  stronger  than  those 
ever  wielded  by  physical  force.  The  best  obedience 
is  that  which  flows  from  moral  rectitude. 

Saturday,  Nov.  1.  The  high  temperature  of  the 
water,  which  my  boy  brought  me  this  morning  for 
bathing,  indicated  that  we  were  in  the  Gulf  Stream. 
On  inquiry,  I  ascertained  that  during  the  night  we 
had  penetrated  near  to  its  centre.  This  great  river 
of  the  ocean  holds  its  majestic  course  in  seeming  in- 
dependence of  the  vast  and  violent  elements  through 


24  DECK  AND  PORT. 


which  it  moves.  Storms  may  howl  over  it,  and  con- 
flicting currents  fiercely  assail  it,  but  it  moves  on  in 
the  tranquil  greatness  of  its  unabated  strength.  It 
never  stops  to  parley  with  its  adversaries,  proposes 
no  terms,  accepts  none ;  but  like  a  brave  champion 
of  truth,  moves  steadily  to  its  goal.  In  its  equa- 
nimity, its  fidelity  to  one  great  purpose,  and  its  tri- 
umph, the  God  of  Nature  utters  a  moral  lesson  in  the 
ear  of  nations. 

Our  coursers,  topsails,  top-gallant,  and  studding- 
sails  are  set  to  a  free,  fresh  wind  from  the  southwest, 
and  we  are  making  ten  knots  the  hour.  Our  ship  has 
been  too  much  by  the  stern,  but  the  removal  of  four 
of  her  spar-deck  guns  from  her  after  to  her  forward 
ports,  has  brought  her  more  by  the  head,  and  she 
sails  better.  Her  constructor  conjectured  that  if 
deep,  she  would  sail  better  by  being  at  least  fifteen 
inches  by  the  head.  His  conjecture  turns  out  to  be 
correct.  She  is  now  moving  through  the  waters  as 
if  she  had  an  exulting  pride  in  her  occupation.  I  do 
not  wonder  sailors  regard  a  fast  ship  as  a  thing  of 
life,  and  speak  of  her  with  an  affection  applicable 
only  to  the  higher  attributes  of  humanity.  She  is 
indeed  the  highest  triumph  of  human  skill — the 
noblest  representative  of  art. 

Sunday,  Nov.  2.  The  Sabbath.  The  force  of 
the  wind  and  the  roll  of  the  ship  might  have  excused 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  25 


divine  service  with  those  disposed  to  find  an  apology 
for  such  omission.  But  we  have  commenced  the 
cruise  with  the  determination  to  have  service  every 
Sabbath  when  it  is  at  all  practicable.  Regularity  in 
this  duty  promotes  regularity  in  every  other.  The 
discipline  of  a  rnan-of-war  lies  in  the  fact  that  noth- 
ing is  omitted  that  ought  to  be  done.  Besides  what 
more  appropriate  for  men,  tost  on  the  howling  waste 
of  the  ocean,  than  a  recognised  dependence  on  that 
Being  who  binds  the  elements  at  his  will ;  who  can 
say  to  the  rushing  storm  and  chainless  wave,  hith- 
erto shall  ye  come  and  no  further,  and  here  shall 
your  proud  strength  be  stayed. 

Last  evening  a  bird  flew  on  board.  He  had  been 
driven  far  out  to  sea  in  a  gale,  and  now  timidly 
sought  our  spars  as  a  place  of  rest.  No  one  was 
allowed  to  molest  him  for  the  night ;  in  the  morning, 
turning  his  eyes  in  that  direction  where  the  land  lay, 
though  some  three  hundred  miles  oft',  he  bade  us 
adieu  and  disappeared  in  the  distant  horizon.  A  safe 
passage  to  him  and  a  speedy  return  to  those  left 
behind.  He  too  has  his  home,  and  those  there  who 
make  that  home  dear ;  and  though  but  a  bird  of  the 
wild  wood,  he  shares  the  benevolent  regard  of  One 
whose  care  extends  to  the  falling  sparrow,  and  who 
hears  the  young  raven  when  it  cries.  If  the  bird 
whose  wing  is  thrown  on  the  wind  to-day,  and  is 
furled  in  death  to-morrow,  may  share  the  guard  ian- 
3 


20  DECK   AND  TORT. 


ship  of  the  great  Parent  of  all,  much  more  man  with 
his  boundless  sympathies  and  immortal  hopes. 

Monday,  Nov.  3.  The  wind  last  night  hauled 
several  points  to  the  east,  and  forced  us  north  of  our 
true  course.  We  have  been  waiting  for  it  to  haul 
back,  but  it  seems  to  have  settled  down  as  if  deter- 
mined to  make  itself  at  home  in  its  new  quarter. 
Well,  let  it  stay  there,  if  it  will,  and  I  will  ponder  these 
lines  which  I  find  inclosed  in  my  last  letter  from 
lome. 

THE  SAILOR'S  WIFE. 

Thou  o'er  the  world  and  I  at  home, 
But  one  may  linger,  the  other  may  roam, 

Yet  our  hearts  will  flee  o'er  the  sounding  sea, 
Mine  to  thy  bosom,  and  thine  to  me. 

Thy  lot  is  the  toil  of  a  roving  life, 
Chances  and  changes,  sorrow  and  strife — 

Yet  is  mine  more  drear  to  linger  here — 
In  a  ceaseless,  changeless  war  with  fear. 

I  watch  the  sky  by  the  stars'  pale  light, 
Till  the  day-dawn  breaketh  on  gloomy  night, 

And  the  wind's  low  tone  hath  a  dreary  moan 
That  comes  to  my  heart  as  I  weep  alone. 

With  the  morning  light,  oh !  would  I  could  see 
Thy  white  sail  far  on  the  breaking  sea, 

And  welcome  thee  home,  o'er  the  wild  wave's  foam, 
And  bid  thee  no  more  from  my  side  to  roam. 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  27 


Tuesday,  Nov.  4.  The  sun  rose  this  morning 
with  that  look  of  darkness  and  flame  which  the 
monarch  of  the  seasons  puts  on  when  tempests  are 
abroad  in  his  domain.  Yet  he  drove  his  flashing 
chariot  up  the  lowering  steep  of  clouds  with  a  fleet- 
ness  and  force  which  indicated  no  disposition  to  re- 
sign his  sceptre.  The  glance  of  his  eye  kindled  the 
ridges  of  the  black  masses  around  into  lines  of  fire, 
and  revealed  the  caverns  of  darkness  which  stretched 
away  in  their  unfathomed  folds.  The  roused  ocean 
threw  up  its  howling  billows  as  if  in  stern  defiance. 
It  was  evident  we  were  to  have  a  conflict  of  the 
giant  elements.  They  rushed  into  the  battle  like 
foes  who  neither  give  nor  crave  quarter. 

The  roar  of  the  tempest  above,  the  thunder  of  the 
sea  below,  the  careering  squadrons  of  clouds,  and  the 
dark  defiant  waves,  as  they  rushed  into  combat,  add- 
ed sublimity  to  terror.  Our  ship  was  not  an  idle 
spectator ;  she  plunged  into  the  thickest  of  the  fight, 
and  with  wings  furled  and  a  steady  keel,  presented 
her  frowning  mass  of  exulting  courage  and  strength; 
she  trembled  but  not  with  fear,  sr>e*wavered  but  not 
from  want  of  valor.  Wave  after  wave  of  the  great 
ocean  rolled  its  massive  strength  against  her,  but  she 
met  each  successive  shock  with  dauntless  intrepid- 
ity. Night  at  last  closed  over  the  conflict,  and  the 
lightnings  lit  the  watch-fires  of  the  hostile  squadrons. 
The  moon  broke  through  a  rift  in  the  black  masses, 


28  DECK   AND  PORT. 


and  cast  her  soft  light  on  the  savage  features  of  the 
scene.  So  rose  she  over  Thermopylae,  and  Waterloo, 
and  blushed  at  the  havoc  of  human  ambition. 

Wednesday,  Nov.  5.  The  gale  of  yesterday  in- 
creasing at  night-fall,  we  sent  down  our  fore  and 
mizen  top-gallant  masts,  and  put  our  ship  under 
close-reefed  main  top-sail,  fore  storm  stay-sail,  fore 
and  mizen  try-sails.  Thus  she  lay  like  a  crouched 
lion.  Darkness  was  on  the  face  of  the  deep,  save 
here  and  there,  where  a  falling  meteor  threw  its 
transient  light  on  the  foaming  crest  of  some  towering 
wave.  As  the  soaring  billow  combed  over,  sheets 
of  lighted  foam  rolled  down  into  the  intervening  gulfs 
of  night,  and  then  succeeded  a  darkness  that  might 
be  felt.  As  the  heavy  bell  struck  the  hours,  the 
voices  of  the  watch  from  different  parts  of  the  ship 
came  like  broken  tones  from  unseen  sources.  The 
hollow  sound  of  the  storm  through  the  rigging,  made 
it  seem  as  if  the  very  winds  were  pouring  our  death- 
dirge. 

But  a  little  after  midnight  the  gale  broke.  It 
broke  suddenly  as  the  hope  of  the  wicked  at  death. 
But  the  driving  waves  still  remained,  dark  and  tu- 
multuous as  the  convulsions  of  guilt  in  despair.  Our 
ship,  without  wind  or  sail  to  steady  her,  plunged 
blindly  about.  She  had  scarcely  a  dry  foot  of  plank 
in  her,  and  yet  multitudes  slept  soundly  that  night. 


PASSAGE  TO   RIO.  29 


Such  is  life  at  sea.  The  resistless  gale  and  the  dead 
calm  follow  each  other  with  the  fickleness  of  an  un- 
weaned  child  over  its  toys.  And  proud  man  submits, 
as  well  he  may ;  for  he  cannot  help  it.  We  are  al- 
ways reconciled  to  that  which  is  remediless.  Even 
death  seems  to  lose  its  terrors  in  its  inevitability. 

Thursday,  Nov.  6.  At  quarters,  this  morning, 
one  of  the  crew,  John  Amey,  was  missing  at  his  post. 
His  name  was  called  through  the  ship,  but  there  was 
no  reply.  All  the  decks  and  the  hold  were  searched, 
but  he  was  nowhere  to  be  found.  He  was  last  seen 
between  seven  and  eight  bells  of  the  mid-watch. 
He  had  not  been  well  since  we  left  Norfolk,  had 
complained  of  his  head,  of  an  oppression  on  the 
brain,  and  had  evinced  at  times,  in  the  incoherency  of 
his  remarks,  symptoms  of  insanity.  He  had  most  un- 
doubtedly, in  a  paroxysm  of  this  disease,  jumped  out 
of  one  of  the  ports,  and  perished.  The  watch  might 
perhaps  have  heard  him  as  he  fell  into  the  water,  but 
for  the  high  sea  that  was  running  at  the  time. 

He  had  shipped  from  Philadelphia,  where  lie  left.  a. 
sister,  of  whom  he  often  spoke  with  tenderness  and 
affection.  He  was  prompt  and  faithful  in  the  dis- 
charge of  his  duties,  and  had  been  promised  promo- 
tion. But  he  is  now  where  the  frowns  <>r  caresses 
of  fortune  can  never  reach  him.  His  sister  will  long 
wait  and  watch  lor  his  return,  and  will    lung  doubt 

3* 


30  DECK   AND  PORT. 


in  her  amazement  and  tears  the  story  of  his  death. 
But  he  has  gone  to  that  silent  bourne  from  which 
nor  wave,  nor  sail,  nor  mariner,  has  e'er  returned, 
nor  one  fond  farewell  word  traversed  the  waters 
back.  He  will  reappear  no  more,  till  the  signal- 
trump  of  the  archangel  shall  summon  the  sea  to  give 
up  her  dead.  He  will  then,  wrapped  in  the  winding- 
sheet  of  the  wave,  appear  at  that  tribunal  where  infi- 
nite rectitude  will  sit  in  judgment  on  the  deeds  of 
men. 

Friday,  Nov.  7.  All  hands  were  mustered  this 
morning  on  the  spar-deck  by  order  of  the  commo- 
dore, and  the  untimely  death  of  poor  Amey  was  an- 
nounced to  the  crew.  The  chaplain  was  called 
upon  for  such  remarks  as  the  melancholy  event  sug- 
gested. After  briefly  sketching  the  characteristics 
of  the  deceased,  his  fidelity  to  duty,  his  love  for  his 
sister,  the  awful  malady  of  which  he  died,  he  told  the 
crew  that  the  sad  event  impressed  one  lesson  with 
fearful  force  upon  all,  and  that  was  the  necessity  of 
a  preparation  for  death  and  the  scenes  that  await  us 
beyond,  while  life  and  reason  remain, — that  as  no 
one  knows  the  hour  or  circumstances  of  his  death, 
his  only  security  lies  in  that  thorough  preparation 
which  no  event  can  surprise.  The  crew  listened 
with  attention,  as  they  always  do  on  such  occasions  ; 
but  impressions  connected  with  death  are  often  tran- 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  31 


sient  with  the  sailor.  His  wild  adventurous  life  is 
so  full  of  tragedy,  that  the  dead  drop  through  it  like 
pebbles  through  a  stormy  wave. 

If  you  would  see  the  most  deep  and  wide  impression 
that  death  ever  produces,  go  to  a  quiet  country  village. 
You  will  hear  it  whispered  from  house  to  house,  that 
Henry  or  Mary  is  dead !  No  long  array  of  mourn- 
ing-carriages darkens  the  street ;  but  a  silent  train  is 
there,  moving  in  sympathy  and  grief  to  the  grave. 
All  gather  around  that  narrow  cavern,  and  as  the 
coffin  rumbles  down  to  its  rest,  tears  from  the  aged 
and  the  young  fall  thick  and  fast,  and  each,  as  he 
returns  to  his  home,  feels  that  a  joy  has  been 
extinguished,  that  a  light  has  fled  from  his  own 
hearth. 

Saturday,  Nov.  8.  Last  evening,  while  a  fine 
breeze  was  filling  our  sails,  and  the  white  caps  were 
dancing  under  the  light  of  the  stars,  a  cloud  was  seen 
emerging  above  the  bright  line  of  the  horizon.  It 
sailed  steadily  up  the  blue  cope,  and  at  last  stationed 
its  dark  distended  form  directly  over  our  ship.  All 
eyes  were  turned  to  it,  expecting  a  storm  to  explode 
from  its  folds.  But  its  contents  fell  in  a  sheet  of 
water  that  instantly  drenched  us  all,  and  utterly  an- 
nihilated the  breeze.  The  poor  dog-vane  fell  mo- 
tionless, as  if  suspended  in  a  grave.  The  cloud  DOW 
dissolved,    the    light    of    the    stars    streamed    down 


'.{\i  DECK   AND  POET. 


through  the  radiant  depths  of  air,  and  the  crushed 
wind,  like  an  unhorsed  rider,  resumed  its  career- 
Man,  when  frustrated  in  his  purposes,  slowly,  if 
ever,  recovers  his  courage  and  force ;  but  nature 
instantly  moves  on  again  in  her  exulting  strength. 
What  to  her  are  crumbling  temples  and  mouldering 
pyramids  ?  She  spreads  her  verdure  over  the  ruins 
of  nations !  In  her  august  domain  empires  rise  and 
fall  with  as  little  sensation  as  leaves  put  forth  and 
perish.  She  hushes  the  great  dirge  of  human  sor- 
row. Her  winds  waltz  over  the  graves  of  a^es.  All 
are  hers,  and  all,  from  the  stars  that  tremble  in  the 
blue  vault  of  heaven  to  the  groves  of  coral  which 
wave  over  the  pavements  of  the  unsounded  sea,  feel 
the  pulses  which  throb  in  her  mighty  heart.  What, 
then,  frail  man,  is  thy  pride  amid  these  stupendous 
attributes  and  achievements  of  nature  ? — a  bubble 
that  breaks  amid  the  eternal  thunders  of  the  deep. 

Nov.  9.  Sunday,  and  a  soft  breeze  from  the  south- 
.west.  The  sparkling  wave  disturbs  not  the  even 
tenor  of  our  keel.  Our  ship  swings  only  to  the 
slow  and  solemn  undulations  of  the  ocean.  No  flap- 
ing  sail  disturbed  the  quietude  of  our  worship.  We 
sung  "  old  hundred,"  the  band  performing  the  instru- 
mental part.  How  impressive  on  the  sounding  sea 
is  that  old  majestic  tune !  It  seems  in  harmony  with 
the  many-voiced   waves  around.     The  organ-tones 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  33 


of  the  mighty  deep  roll  it  to  heaven  with  a  fullness 
and  power  which  no  cathedral  choir  can  pour  from 
its  melodious  recesses.  Nature  through  all  her  vast 
domains  awakens  and  sustains  the  devotions  of  the 
human  heart.  Our  pilgrim  fathers  worshipped  in 
the  sanctuary  of  the  forest.  The  aisles  of  the  deep 
wood  rang  with  their  hymns  of  gratitude  and  praise. 

What  to  them  were  stately  shrines, 
Gorgeous  dome  or  towering  spire  ? 
'Neath  their  sturdy  oaks  and  pines, 
Rose  their  anthems,  winged  with  fire. 

1  distributed  tracts  to-day  to  the  crew — to  all  who 
came  to  me  for  them  ;  and  few  remained  behind.  It 
would  have  encouraged  the  hearts  of  those  who  sup- 
ply these  sources  of  salutary  instruction,  to  have 
witnessed  the  eagerness  with  which  our  sailors  took 
them.  In  a  few  minutes  there  were  three  or  four 
hundred  men  on  the  decks  of  our  ship  reading 
tracts ;  each  catching  some  thought  which  lures 
from  sin,  and  throws  its  clear  and  tender  light  on  the 
narrow  path  which  leads  to  heaven. 

Monday,  Nov.  10.  Our  sweet  southwest  breeze 
still  continues,  and  we  are  moving  on  under  an  easy 
sail  seven  knots  the  hour.  There  is  not  a  greater 
folly  on  the  ocean  than  for  a  man-of-war  to  be 
crowding  on  sail,  as  if  speed  were  the  all-pred«>uii- 


34  DECK  AND  PORT. 


nant  motive.  This  will  do  for  a  merchantman, 
when  a  market  is  to  be  reached  as  soon  as  possible ; 
but  for  a  national  ship,  bound  on  a  three-years' 
cruise,  it  is  a  miserable  exhibition  of  impatience. 
Indeed,  in  all  the  affairs  of  human  life  moderation  is 
true  philosophy.  Our  energies  will  give  way  soon 
enough  without  any  forced  action.  A  spirit  of  rest- 
lessness and  discontent  is  one  of  the  most  striking 
faults  in  the  American  character.  We  rush  with 
rail-road  speed  even  on  ruin.  It  is  as  if  a  man  on 
his  way  to  the  scaffold  were  to  put  his  horse  into  a 
gallop. 

We  have  been  for  several  days  past  in  the  vicinity 
of  water-spouts.  One  of  them  rose  close  upon  our 
larboard  bow.  It  towered  through  several  strata  of 
clouds,  preserving  through  each  its  columnar  form 
till  its  summit  was  lost  in  the  sky.  We  attempted 
to  near  it  sufficiently  to  bring  it  within  the  range  of 
a  cannon-ball,  but  it  seemed  to  elude  our  approach 
as  the  rainbow  the  flying  footsteps  of  childhood.  Its 
apparent  vicinity  was  undoubtedly  one  of  those  op- 
tical delusions  so  common  to  the  phenomena  of  the 
sea.  The  wonders  of  the  deep  belong  to  their  Ma- 
ker. Man  may  survey  them  as  a  worshipper,  but 
when  he  attempts  to  appropriate  them,  thev  fly  his 
profane  grasp,  disarm  him  with  their  terrors,  or  over- 
power him  with  their  magnificence.  We  filled  away 
and  were  again  on  our  course. 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  35 


Tuesday,  Nov.  11.  This  has  been  inspection- 
day.  Once  a  month  each  sailor  is  required  to  ex- 
hibit his  clothing  to  the  officer  who  has  charge  of 
the  division  to  which  he  belongs.  The  object  of  this 
inspection  is  to  see  that  his  clothes  are  in  good  con- 
dition, to  see  if  he  wants  any  thing  further  for  his 
comfort,  and  to  see  that  every  article  of  apparel  is 
marked  with  his  name.  In  this  respect  sailors  are 
to  be  treated  as  children.  They  require  the  same 
constant  care.  They  are  the  most  thoughtless,  im- 
provident beings  in  the  world  ;  and  if  left  to  them- 
selves, will  be,  in  some  instances,  without  a  decent 
article  of  clothing,  and  in  others  with  their  whole 
wages  in  their  clothes-bag.  There  is  no  subject  on 
which  officers  of  the  navy  should  exercise  so  much 
patience,  and  such  sound  paternal  judgment.  It  is  a 
work  which  brings  its  own  reward  in  the  conscious- 
ness of  the  benefits  conferred. 

The  life  of  a  sailor  is  brief  enough  at  best.  Even 
with  all  the  care  which  you  can  bestow  upon  his 
habits,  and  with  all  the  restraints  you  can  exert  upon 
his  headlong  career,  he  soon  reaches  his  goal.  You 
seldom  meet  with  a  grayheaded  sailor.  Long  before 
age  can  have  frosted  his  locks,  the  icy  hand  of  death 
has  been  laid  on  his  heart.  He  dies  in»the  midst  of 
his  days,  and  often  in  his  full  strength.  He  perishes 
like  his  ship,  which  the  tempest  hath  cast  on  the 
rocks.     Could  the  wave  which  sepulchres  his  form 


3G  DECK  AND  PORT. 


be  the  winding-sheet  of  his  soul,  our  solicitude  for 
him  might  be  less ;  but  he  has  a  spirit  that  will  sing 
in  worlds  of  light  or  wail  in  regions  of  wo,  when  the 
dirge  of  the  deep  sea  is  over. 

Wednesday,  Nov.  12.  Last  evening  we  had  an- 
other tropical  shower.  It  fell  as  if  some  atmospheric 
lake  had  burst  its  cloudy  boundary.  In  a  moment 
all  exposed  to  it  were  drenched.  It  passed,  and  the 
moon  circled  up  out  of  the  sea  full  of  mellow  light. 
I  love  that  orb  on  land,  but  more  at  sea.  On  shore, 
other  objects  relieve  your  solitude,  but  on  the  ocean 
it  is  all  that  seems  to  break  the  desolation  which 
would  else  be  universal.  I  have  seen  sailors  sit  and 
look  at  it  by  the  hour.  Few  of  them  understand  the 
laws  which  regulate  its  phenomena,  but  all  feel  its 
influence.  Nature  unrolls  her  treasures  to  the  sim- 
plest of  her  children. 

This  morning  a  fine  breeze  visited  us  from  the 
northwest,  the  first  that  has  cheered  us  from  that 
quarter.  We  have  been  on  the  starboard  tack  ever 
since  we  left  Norfolk.  We  who  occupy  the  larboard 
state-rooms,  now  congratulated  ourselves  that  in  the 
event  of  a  blow,  we  should  have  dry  quarters,  and 
our  starboard  companions  would  take  their  turn  at 
leaking  ports.  But  this  self-gratulation  was  hardly 
over,  when  the  wind  chopped  about  to  its  old  quar- 
ter, and  our  exultation,  like  most  exhibitions  of  self- 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  37 


ish  delight,  proved  premature.  Our  frigate,  with  a 
breeze  that  scarcely  crisps  the  sea,  knots  her  hun- 
dred miles  a  day.  This,  before  steam  began  to  anni- 
hilate space,  would  have  been  considered  very  fair 
travelling.  But  now  it  is  a  tortoise  by  the  side  of 
an  antelope.  Four  bells  have  struck — my  light 
must  be  extinguished,  and  I  can  either  walk  the 
deck  or  turn  in  for  the  night. 

Thursday,  Nov.  13th.  I  rise  with  the  sun,  and, 
like  that  stern  old  monarch,  from  a  salt  bath.  Like 
him,  too,  I  take  another  on  retiring  to  rest.  Here, 
I  suppose,  ends  the  resemblance  between  us,  except 
that  both  have  some  spots.  They  who  go  to  sea  for 
their  health  should  rise  with  the  sun,  bathe  in  salt 
water,  and  inhale  the  fresh  atmosphere  an  hour  be- 
fore breakfast.  They  should  also  bathe  before  they 
retire  to  rest.  Salt  water,  the  chafing  towel,  and 
fresh  air,  are  the  restoratives  most  to  be  relied  on, 
and  the  very  restoratives  which  a  lazy  invalid  will 
first  neglect.  Were  I  to  omit  these,  I  should  hardly 
live  long  enough  to  reach  our  next  port.  The  in- 
valid should  confine  himself  to  a  spare  diet,  and  take 
no  stimulants.  His  only  tonic  should  be  the  pure 
salt  atmosphere  of  the  sea.  Wine,  brandy,  and  por- 
ter are  sufficiently  injurious  on  land,  but  at  sea  they 
cany  disease  and  death  in  their  train. 

We  have  had  this  evening  an  eclipse  of  the  moon; 
4 


38  DECK   AND  TORT. 


only  a  narrow  rim  of  the  orb  escaped  the  dark  shad- 
ow of  our  earth.  Our  sailors,  not  anticipating  this 
eclipse,  could  not  at  first  account  for  the  disappear- 
ing light.  They  saw  the  slender  spars  and  tracery 
of  the  ship  becoming  momentarily  less  distinct  and 
visible,  but  knew  not  from  whence  the  shadow  fell. 
A  few  of  them,  better  versed  in  lunar  observations, 
explained  to  the  rest  the  phenomenon.  They  said 
the  earth  had  shoved  a  part  of  her  black  hull  between 
us  and  the  moon.  But  when  asked  why  she  had 
done  this,  the  reason  assigned  was,  that  the  moon  had 
probably  got  a  little  out  of  her  reckoning,  and  in 
attempting  to  tack  had  missed  stays. 

Friday,  Nov.  14.  We  have  now  been  fourteen  days 
at  sea,  and  have  sailed  eighteen  hundred  miles.  A 
vast  sheet  of  water  spreads  between  us  and  our 
homes,  but  a  greater  between  us  and  our  port  of 
destination.  Our  fresh  provisions  still  hold  out,  but 
the  appearance  of  a  junk  of  corned  beef  on  our  table 
every  day  indicates  the  gradual  approach  of  short 
commons.  Still  it  will  be  some  time  before  we  reach 
that  last  dish  of  gastronomic  desperation — lobscouse. 
We  have  an  experienced  caterer,  a  provident  stew- 
ard, and  an  ingenious  cook.  With  the  three  we 
feel  pretty  safe.  I  have  been  at  sea  in  four  or 
five  national  ships,  and  have  never  found  in  any, 
after  the  second  week  out,  a  table  so  well  supplied  as 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  39 


ours.     Still  our  variety  is  effected  in  a  great  measure 
by  the  ingenuity  of  our  steward  and  cook. 

The  culinary  art  is  forced  into  its  highest  degree 
of  perfection,  and  achieves  its  last  triumph  at  sea. 
The  cook,  who,  in  a  Parisian  restaurant,  can  make  a 
palatable  soup  from  the  carcass  of  a  crow  that  has 
perished  of  inanition,  is  entitled  to  but  little  praise  in 
comparison  with  him  who  can  raise  a  good  soup  at 
sea  after  the  third  week  out.  The  nautical  cook 
has  seemingly  nothing  left  for  his  pot  but  the  recol- 
lections of  his  coop.  Recollections  make  very  good 
poetry,  but  they  simmer  badly  into  a  soup.  The 
attenuation  is  too  fine  even  for  homoeopathic  gastron- 
omy. It  would  do,  perhaps,  for  Bishop  Berkeley's 
ideal  world.  I  rather  think  the  worthy  bishop  must 
have  formed  that  theory  at  sea  after  the  third  week 
out.  It  certainly  suits  man  in  that  condition.  The 
unstableness  of  a  thing  entitles  it  to  faith. 

Saturday,  Nov.  15.  To-day  our  ship  has  been 
holystoned  from  stem  to  stern.  A  person  who  has 
stood  in  the  silent  excavations  of  Herculaneum,  mid 
heard  the  carriages  rattling  overhead,  can  have 
some  idea  of  the  sounds  which  those  rumbling  stones 
produce  on  the  decks  of  a  ship.  The  whole  ship  is 
converted  into  a  floating  Babel,  and  worse  indeed, 
unless  the  strokes  of  the  gravel  be  comprehended  in 
the  vocal  jargon  of  the  tower.     But  we  shall  have 


40  DECK  AND  TORT. 


our  compensation  for  this  in  decks  so  clean  that  a 
handkerchief  might  be  swept  over  them  without  soil- 
ing its  whiteness. 

Nothing  on  board  a  man-of-war  requires  such  un- 
remitted attention  as  cleanliness.  It  puts  to  the  last 
test  the  most  indomitable  purpose.  Without  it,  a 
ship  soon  becomes  intolerable.  Without  it,  sickness 
would  ensue;  some  epidemic  would  sweep  half  the 
crew  to  the  grave.  And  yet  nine-tenths  of  our 
sailors  are  so  inconsiderate,  that  if  left  to  themselves 
they  would  exercise  no  precautions  on  the  subject. 
This  renders  the  most  careful  supervision  of  officers 
indispensable.  Negligence  in  this  department  soils 
every  laurel  he  can  win  on  the  deck.  It  is  like  that 
louse  which  Burns  saw  climbing  up  a  lady's  bonnet 
in  church.  This  allusion  reminds  one  of  an  anecdote 
related  of  Lord  Byron  and  Lady  Blessington.  Her 
ladyship  had  taken  something  that  the  poet  had  said 
in  high  dudgeon,  but  dismissed  it  with  the  fling  that 
she  "  didn't  care  three  skips  of  a  louse  for  his  lord- 
ship." To  which  the  sarcastic  poet  retorted  in  the 
couplet — 

"  I  forgive  the  dear  lady  what  she  has  said, 
A  woman  will  talk  of  what  runs  in  her  head." 

Sunday,  Nov.  16.  The  Sabbath  has  returned,  and 
we  have  had  divine  service.  Last  night  we  dis- 
covered a  sail  on  our  starboard-bow,  close  hauled 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  41 


upon  her  wind.  This  morning  we  tacked  ship  and 
brought  her  to.  She  proved  to  be  a  I >ri -_r  from 
Norfolk,  bound  to  Rio  de  Janeiro.  She  had  been 
fifty-two  days  out,  with  light  head-winds.  We  wished 
the  captain  a  pleasant  voyage,  and  parted  company. 
We  were  in  hopes  she  might  prove  a  craft  bound  to 
some  port  in  the  United  States,  and  that  she  would 
take  letters  back  from  us.  We  were  disappointed ; 
our  friends  must  wait  for  letters  from  our  port  of 
destination.  It  will  probably  be  six  months  from  our 
departure  before  they  will  get  a  line  from  us. 

You  who  cannot  leave  your  wives  and  children  for 
a  week,  without  intelligence  from  them,  go  to  sea 
with  the  prospect  that  we  have,  of  not  hearing  from 
them  for  a  year.  The  truth  is,  none  but  old  bachelors 
and  hen-pecked  husbands  should  go  to  sea.  The 
latter  flies  from  persecution,  the  former  from  that 
wretchedness  which  a  sight  of  real  domestic  happi- 
ness inflicts.  The  bliss  of  Eden  made  even  Satan 
more  wretched  than  he  was  before.  But  the  ocean  is 
itself  a  rich  domain.  The  treasures  of  empires  lie  in 
its  depths.  The  wrecks  of  the  richest  argosies  are 
hers  ;  and  her  waves  roll  over  the  unsurrendered 
forms  of  matchless  beauty.  She  gives  back  nought 
that  comes  within  her  vast  embrace.  Her  great  seal 
of  proprietorship  will  be  broken  only  by  the  thun- 
ders of  the  last  trump. 

4* 


42  DECK   AND  PORT. 


Monday,  Nov.  17.  Our  ship  has  been  tantalized 
all  day  with  a  light  head-wind — just  one  of  those 
winds  that  are  but  little  better  than  none ;  the  only 
advantage  it  has  over  a  dead  calm  is  the  air  it  af- 
fords.    As  for  progress,  we  might  as  well  be 

"  A  painted  sliip  upon  a  painted  ocean." 

How  dependent  is  a  ship  on  the  elements !  Let  the 
winds  refuse  to  visit  us,  and  this  noble  frigate  would 
never  move  from  her  present  position ;  she  would 
rot  down  piece-meal  where  she  is  now  lying,  with 
the  bleaching  bones  of  five  hundred  men  on  her 
decks.  But  the  winds  are  at  the  bidding  of  Him 
whose  pavilion  is  in  the  clouds,  and  whose  mandates 
are  nature's  resistless  law.  May  we  ever  live  in 
humble  submission  to  His  will,  and  rejoice  that  He 
reigns ;  feeling  fully  assured  that  His  measures  are 
dictated  by  infinite  wisdom,  and  by  an  unerring  re- 
gard to  the  happiness  of  His  creatures. 

I  found  in  the  sick-bay  to-day  a  patient  laboring 
under  a  typhoid  fever,  and  apparently  near  his  end. 
He  spoke  to  me  of  his  mother  and  his  sisters,  and 
tears  filled  his  eyes.  The  first  being  that  rushes  to 
the  recollections  and  heart  of  a  sailor,  smitten  with 
disease  at  sea,  is  his  mother.  She  still  clings  to  his 
memory  and  affection  in  the  midst  of  all  the  forget- 
fulness  and  hardihood  induced  by  a  roving  life.  The 
last  message  he  leaves  is  for  her;    his  last  dying 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  43 


whisper  breathes  her  name.  The  mother  as  she  in- 
stills the  lessons  of  piety  and  filial  obligation  upon 
the  heart  of  her  infant  son,  should  always  feel  that 
her  labor  is  not  in  vain.  She  may  drop  into  her 
grave,  but  she  has  left  behind  influences  that  will 
work  for  her.  The  bow  is  broken,  but  the  arrow  is 
sped  and  will  do  its  office. 

Tuesday,  Nov.  18.  Another  day  of  light  airs. 
Our  sails  hang  as  pertinaciously  to  our  masts  as  a 
veil  over  the  features  of  one  whose  imaginary  beauty 
has  touched  your  heart.  We  discovered  another 
sail  to-day  over  our  weather-bow,  hull  down.  Con- 
jecture makes  her  the  Courier,  which  sailed  from 
Hampton  Roads  two  or  three  days  before  us.  There 
is  an  interest  in  speaking  a  vessel  at  sea,  which  they 
who  dwell  on  land  can  hardly  realize.  These  nau- 
tical greetings  are  all  that  break  the  vast  solitude  of 
the  ocean.  Without  them  a  ship  would  be  more 
lonely  than  the  solitary  traveller  on  the  desert  of  Sa- 
hara, for  he  will  now  and  then  encounter  a  gazelle. 

A  sailor's  life  is  one  of  constant  privations.  He 
makes  his  meals  from  bread  which  the  hammer  can 
scarcely  break,  and  from  meat  often  as  juiceless  and 
dry  as  the  bones  which  it  feebly  covers.  The  fresh 
products  of  the  garden  and  the  fruits  of  the  field 
have  all  been  left  behind.  As  for  a  bowl  of  milk, 
which  the  child  of  the  humblest  cottager  can  bring 


44  PECK   AND  PORT. 


to  its  lips,  it  is  as  much  beyond  his  reach  as  the  nec- 
tar which  sparkled  in  the  goblets  of  the  fabled  divini- 
ties on  Ida.  When  Adam  went  forth  from  his  lost 
Eden,  under  the  frown  of  God,  he  had  still  a  con- 
fiding companion  at  his  side,  to  share  with  him  the 
sorrows  of  his  lot,  and  he  still  found  some  flowers 
amid  the  briers  and  brambles  which  infested  his 
path ;  but  the  sailor  finds  no  flowers  springing  up 
along  the  pathway  of  the  sea,  and  he  has  no  con- 
soling companion  there,  except  in  his  dreams  of  some 
far-off  shore. 

Wednesday,  Nov.  19.  We  have  three  sailors  in 
the  sick-bay  to-day,  in  a  very  critical  condition. 
They  are  all  good  men,  so  far  at  least  as  ship  duty 
is  concerned.  Their  death  would  make  a  serious 
breach  in  our  crew.  Our  intelligent  surgeon  and  his 
faithful  assistants  are  devoted  to  them.  They  are 
not  left  night  or  day,  for  an  hour,  without  a  medical 
attendant.  Commodore  Stockton  went  into  the  sick- 
bay to-day  to  see  them.  He  never  forgets  the  sailor. 
He  pities  when  others  might  reproach,  forgives  when 
others  might  denounce,  and  never  abandons  him 
even  though  he  should  abandon  himself:  and  vet  he 
exacts  prompt  obedience.  His  discipline,  and  that 
of  Capt.  Du  Pont,  is  derived  in  a  great  measure  from 
moral  influences,  the  power  of  correct  example  and 
the  pressure  of  circumstance. 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  45 


Make  the  moral  mechanism  of  a  ship  like  a  piece 
of  well-contrived  machinery,  and  but  few  blows  will 
be  required  to  keep  it  in  order.  But  this  requires 
energy  in  the  details.  It  is  much  easier  to  flog  a 
man  who  has  committed  an  error,  than  it  is  to  train 
him  to  avoid  that  error.  Indolence  flies  to  the  lash, 
enlightened  activity  to  a  system  of  correct  training, 
which  is  to  be  pressed  at  all  points.  And  this  train- 
ing must  be  consistent  with  itself.  It  will  not  suc- 
ceed if  it  is  to  be  broken  in  upon  constantly  by  brute 
force,  or  by  language  as  disreputable  to  the  officer 
who  uses  it,  as  it  is  unjust  and  provoking  to  the  men 
to  whom  it  is  addressed.  Profane  or  opprobrious 
epithets  are  a  mockery  of  all  discipline,  except  that 
which  is  enforced  by  the  lash.  An  officer  incapable 
of  enforcing  any  other  discipline,  is  a  calamity  to  the 
service. 

Thursday,  Nov.  20.  We  discovered,  this  morn- 
ing, a  brig  on  our  weather-beam,  standing  down  for 
us,  and  hove-to  with  our  main  top-sail  to  the  mast. 
She  run  up  Danish  colors,  and  in  an  hour  hove-to  at 
a  cable's  length  under  our  lee-quarter.  We  lowered 
a  boat  and  boarded  her.  She  proved  to  be  the  brig 
Mariah,  forty  days  from  Rio  Grande,  bound  to  Ham- 
burg.* We  inquired  for  fruit,  but  she  had  none.  Tin- 
captain  wished  to  correct  his  reckoning,  and  well  he 
might,  for  he  was  seven  degrees  out  of  his  longitude. 


46  DECK  AND  PORT. 


Mr.  Beale,  our  second  master,  took  passage  in  her 
for  the  United  States.  It  was  arranged  between  him 
and  the  captain  of  the  brig,  that  he  should  be  put  on 
board  the  first  vessel  that  they  might  fall  in  with 
bound  to  an  American  port,  and  if  they  fell  in  with 
none  before  that,  he  should  be  landed  at  Dover,  Eng- 
land. The  captain  must  have  had  a  very  flexible 
policy.  When  it  was  understood  that  letters  could 
be  sent  back,  pens  that  had  slumbered  for  weeks 
woke  up.  In  half  an  hour  the  commodore  had  fin- 
ished his  communications,  our  home-letters  were 
written,  and  Mr.  Beale  was  passing  over  the  side. 
In  reaching  the  boat,  a  box  of  segars  and  a  revolving- 
pistol  fell  overboard.  Strange  as  it  may  seem,  the 
pistol  floated  a  moment,  and  was  saved,  while  the 
segars  were  lost.  I  watched  the  letter-bag,  saw  that 
safe  in,  thought  of  the  satisfaction  it  would  give,  and 
forgot  the  Havanas.  Though  the  sea  was  running 
high,  Mr.  Beale  reached  the  brig  safely,  and  our  boat 
returned.  The  little  vessel  then  squared  away,  and 
we  made  sail ;  and  thus  we  parted,  the  one  for  Ham- 
burg, the  other  for  Rio.  How  the  paths  of  life  cross 
each  other ! 

Friday,  Nov.  21.  Poor  Spillier,  whose  critical 
condition  I  have  watched  for  several  days  in  the  sick 
bay,  has  passed  beyond  hope.  His  disease  has  passed 
into  pneumonia,  and  his  lungs  have  already  ceased, 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  47 


in  a  great  measure,  to  perform  their  functions.  I 
told  him  to-day  he  could  not  live.  The  sad  intelli- 
gence brought  tears  to  his  eyes.  He  said  it  was 
dreadful  to  die  away  from  his  friends,  and  be  buried 
in  the  sea.  I  told  him  his  mother  died  a  good 
Christian  and  had  gone  to  heaven,  and  he  could  go 
there  and  meet  her.  But  he  must  bring  all  the 
errors  and  sins  of  his  life,  and  with  sincere  sorrow 
and  contrition,  lay  them  at  the  foot  of  the  cross, 
and  implore  divine  forgiveness.  lie  was  silent 
for  a  few  minutes,  and  then  uttered  a  brief  and 
appropriate  prayer,  confessing  his  manifold  trans- 
gressions, and  casting  himself  on  the  compassion  of 
Christ. 

He  was  silent  again,  and  seemed  absorbed  in 
thought.  The  expressions  of  mental  anguish  and 
hope  alternated  over  his  pale  features  like  cloud  and 
sunlight  over  a  landscape.  He  now  became  com- 
posed, and  opening  his  large  swimming  eyes  upon 
me,  thanked  me  for  my  attentions  to  him,  and  re- 
quested me  to  write  his  sisters ;  to  give  them  his 
dying  love  ;  to  say  that  he  died  in  Christ  and  hoped 
to  go  to  heaven,  where  he  should  see  their  mother. 
He  told  me  that  the  dread  of  being  buried  at  sea  had 
left  him  ;  that  it  was  no  matter  where  his  poor  body 
was  laid,  if  his  soul  was  saved  ;  that  his  blessed 
mother  would  know  him  and  would  be  the  first  to 
greet  him.     How  the  ties  of  a  mother's  love  fasten 


48  DECK  AND  PORT. 


upon  her  child,  soothing  the  couch  of  pain  and  tri- 
umphing over  the  terrors  *>f  the  grave ! 

Saturday,  Nov.  22.  We  have  a  stiff  wind  to-day 
from  the  southeast,  and  we  are  running,  close  hauled, 
under  reefed  top-sails.  The  sea  is  high,  and  every 
now  and  then  a  huge  wave  throws  its  curling  crest 
through  some  half-closed  port,  as  a  wolf  pounces  into 
a  sheep-fold,  or  as  the  arch  adversary  o'erleaped  the 
green  wall  of  Eden.  Though  we  are  any  thing  but 
Eden,  with  its  beauty  and  its  bliss  :  our  first  parent 
would  have  had  but  little  cause  of  regret,  if,  in  re- 
signing Eden,  he  had  relinquished  only  the  habitudes 
of  a  sea-life.  A  wigwam  might  have  consoled  him 
for  his  loss.     No  Milton  had  sung — 

"  Of  man's  first  disobedience,  and  the  fruit 
Of  that  forbidden  tree,  whose  mortal  taste 
Brought  death  into  the  world,  and  all  our  woe, 
With  loss  of  Eden." 

The  truth  is,  man  was  never  intended  for  a  nauti- 
cal being.  He  was  made  perfect,  but  he  has  sought 
out  many  inventions ;  and  this  going  to  sea  is  one  of 
them.  His  pathway  on  the  deep  is  hedged  about 
with  storms,  icebergs,  water-spouts,  and  breakers. 
But,  in  the  strange  perversity  of  his  nature,  he  perse- 
veres through  the  whole  of  them.  He  knows  and 
feels  that  he  is  a  fool  in  his  nautical  obstinacy,  and 


PASSAGE  TO   RIO.  49 


yet  he  clings  to  it,  as  the  inebriate  to  the  cup  that 
consumes  his  vitals.  He  seems  to  court  hardship  for 
its  own  sake,  and  to  court  peril  for  the  excitement 
which  it  bestows.  But  for  the  indecency  of  the 
thing  he  would  toll,  in  advance,  his  own  funeral-bell, 
that  its  fearful  monotone  might  tremble  on  his  heart 
before  it  should  be  cold.  And  he  would  almost  dig 
his  own  grave,  that  he  might  hear  his  coffin  rumbling 
down  to  its  rest. 

Sunday,  Nov.  23.  Another  Sabbath  morn  has 
poured  its  holy  light  on  land  and  sea.  On  land,  the 
stir  of  the  village  and  the  tumult  of  the  great  city 
have  ceased.  Men  walk  softly  in  the  prelude  of  that 
rest  which  remains  to  the  good.  Sacred  truth  melts 
on  their  hearts  like  dew.  No  community  in  a  Chrjj 
tian  land  can  be  utterly  bereft  of  moral  influence.  If 
it  has  none  from  within,  there  is  a  pressure  from 
without.  The  moral  as  well  as  physical  atmosphere 
tends  to  an  equilibrium.  Righteous  Lot  may  have 
fled  from  Sodom,  but  his  warning  voice  rolled  back 
upon  the  wind  to  the  doomed  city. 

But  a  ship  is  cut  ofTby  its  position  from  all  extra- 
neous influences.  It  is  like  a  ball  suspended  in  the 
centre  of  a  hollow  sphere.  This  isolation  has  placed 
it  beyond  the  reach,  and  seemingly  beyond  the  sym- 
pathies, of  those  who  dwell  on  the  land.  They  have 
regarded  it  as  a  thing  apart  from  themselves,  a  thing 


50  DECK   AND  TORT. 


with  which  they  had  no  common  bond  of  brother- 
hood, and  they  have  abandoned  it  to  its  calamities 
and  its  crimes.  When  guilt  and  misery  have  done 
their  worst,  when  the  pirate-flag  has  been  unfurled 
where  the  insignia  of  commerce  streamed  before,  in- 
stead of  accusing  their  own  apathy  and  negligence, 
they  have  seemed  to  regard  the  terrible  spectacle  as 
some  singular  exemplification  of  divine  justice — as 
some  malignant  star  accursed  and  made 

"  A  -wandering  hell  in  the  eternal  space." 

Monday,  Nov.  24.  Yesterday  morning,  as  the 
men  left  their  hammocks,  the  ominous  whisper  went 
round — "Spillier  is  dead!"  He  had  died  during  the 
night,  while  storm  and  darkness  rested  on  the  face 
of  the  deep.  Last  evening,  as  the  sun  was  going 
down,  we  consigned  him  to  his  floating  grave.  The 
deep-toned  call,  "All  hands  to  bury  the  dead!"  went 
like  a  knell  through  the  ship.  The  body,  wrapped 
in  that  hammock  in  which  the  deceased  had  swung 
to  the  force  of  the  wind,  was  borne  by  his  mess- 
mates, preceded  by  the  chaplain  of  the  ship,  from 
the  gun-deck  up  the  forward  hatch,  and  round  the 
capstan  to  the  lee-side ;  the  band,  with  muffled 
drums,  playing  the  "dead-march,"  and  the  marine- 
guard  presenting  arms.  The  commodore,  the  cap- 
tain, and  officers  of  the  ship,  took  their  position  near 
the  main-mast ;  the  crew  were  stationed  forward. 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  51 


Then  commenced  the  burial-service :  "  I  am  the 
resurrection  and  the  life,  saith  the  Lord ;  he  that  be- 
lie veth  in  me,  though  he  were  dead  yet  shall  he  live  ; 
and  whosoever  believeth  in  me  shall  never  die." 
When  the  solemn  sentence  was  uttered,  "  We  com- 
mit this  body  to  the  deep,"  the  inner  end  of  the  plank 
was  lifted,  and  down  its  steep  plane  moved  the  ham- 
mocked  dead,  and  a  hoarse  hollow  sound  followed 
the  heavy  plunge.  The  waters  closed  over  the  dis- 
appearing form — the  ship  glided  on  as  before.  Then, 
with  impressive  effect,  came  in  the  words,  "  Looking 
for  the  general  resurrection  in  the  last  day,  and  the 
life  of  the  world  to  come,  through  our  Lord  Jesus 
Christ,  at  whose  second  coming  in  glorious  majesty 
to  judge  the  world,  the  earth  and  sea  shall  give  up 
their  dead,  and  the  corruptible  bodies  of  those  who 
sleep  in  Hi"m  shall  be  changed,  and  made  like  unto 
His  own  glorious  body,  according  to  the  mighty 
working  whereby  He  is  able  to  subdue  all  things 
unto  Himself."  The  benediction  followed,  and  the 
crew  returned  in  silence  to  their  stations. 

Reader,  when  you  die,  it  will  be,  I  trust,  in  the 
sabbath  calm  of  your  hushed  chamber ;  but  the  poor 
sailor  dies  at  sea  between  the  narrow  decks  of  his 
rolling  vessel.  The  last  accents  that  will  reach 
your  e;irs  will  be  those  of  kindness  and  affection, 
such  as  flow  from  a  mother's  care,  and  a  sister's 
solicitude  ;  the  last  sounds  that  reach  the  ears  of  the 


52  DECK  AND  PORT. 


dying  sailor  are  the  hoarse  murmurs  of  that  wave 
which  seems  to  complain  at  the  delay  of  its  victim. 
You  will  be  buried  beneath  the  green  tree,  where 
love  and  grief  may  go  to  plant  their  flowers  and 
cherish  your  virtues  ;  but  the  poor  sailor  is  hearsed 
in  the  dark  depths  of  the  ocean,  there  to  drift  about, 
in  its  under-currents,  to  the  great  judgment-day. 
Alas,  for  the  poor  sailor !  the  child  of  misfortune, 
impulse,  and  error :  his  brief  life  filled  with  privation, 
hardship,  and  peril ;  his  grave  in  the  foaming  deep  ! 
Though  man  pity  him  not,  may  God  remember  his 
weaknesses  and  trials  in  the  day  of  his  last  account. 

Tuesday,  Nov.  25th.  We  have  had  for  two  days 
past  a  steady  breeze  from  the  southeast,  and  have 
run  an  average  of  seven  knots  the  hour.  We  are 
now  in  the  hope  of  making  Rio  in  twenty  days  from 
this  time.  This  will  make  our  whole  passage  forty- 
six  days, — not  a  bad  run.  The  Columbia  was  ninety- 
three  days  making  the  same  passage ;  but  it  was  at 
the  most  unfavorable  season  of  the  year.  To  take 
this  as  a  specimen  of  her  sailing  would  be  doing 
great  injustice  to  that  noble  frigate. 

Wednesday,  Nov.  26th.  We  are  to-day  in  lat. 
18°  49  n.,  long.  33°  46'  w.,  with  a  light  steady  breeze 
from  the  southeast.  We  are  knocked  off  to  the  west 
of  our  course.     We  ought  to  head  east  of  south,  even 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  53 


■with  the  variation  in  our  favor.  We  are  anxious  to 
cross  the  line  at  twenty-seven  or  eight,  to  avoid  the 
head  winds  of  Cape  St.  Roque.  We  are  where  we 
ought  to  have  the  northeast  trades,  but  we  have  not 
yet  had  a  puff  of  wind  from  that  quarter.  Unless  our 
present  breeze  hauls  or  dies  we  shall  be  obliged  to 
tack,  which  will  be  about  as  agreeable  as  running 
back  in  a  railroad-car  to  make  way  for  a  locomotive 
ahead,  when  you  are  in  haste  to  get  on.  But  we 
have  one  thing  to  console  us,  it  is  all  in  the  cruise, 
so  let  the  winds  blow  as  they  list. 

The  hammers  of  our  blacksmiths  are  heard  this 
morning,  the  first  time  for  some  days,  ^hey  have 
been  silenced  on  account  of  the  sick  ;  but  they  are 
now  going  as  if  determined  to  make  up  lost  time. 
Iron  takes  almost  every  shape  under  their  blows. 
A  ship's  blacksmith  has  no  such  word  as  can't  in  his 
vocabulary.  He  takes  his  order,  and  tries  to  shape 
his  iron  accordingly,  though  he  may  know  it  to  be 
utterly  impracticable.  We  had  on  board  the  Natchez 
an  old  time-piece  which  had  broken  its  main-spring. 
The  first  lieutenant,  for  fun,  told  the  blacksmith  to 
take  it  to  the  anvil  and  put  a  new  main-spring  in  it. 
Hearing  the  puff  of  the  bellows  and  the  click  of  the 
hammer,  I  went  forward,  where  I  found  the  old 
watch  taken  to  pieces,  and  the  worthy  representative 
of  Vulcan,  beating  with  his  full  force  a  piece  of  iron. 
"  What  are  you  doing  with  this  time-piece  ?"  I  in- 

5* 


54  DECK  AND  PORT. 


quired.     "  Making  a  kinked-up  sort  of  a  thing,  sir,  to 
make  it  go,"  was  the  sardonic  reply. 

Thursday,  Nov.  27.  The  wind  hauled  round  into 
our  teeth  last  evening.  We  tacked  to  the  east,  and 
headed  east  by  north  through  the  night.  But  the 
wind  soon  became  too  light  for  us  to  make  much 
progress  in  any  direction.  Instead  of  trade-winds, 
these  fickle  puffs  ought  to  be  called  the  variables. 
No  coquette  was  ever  half  so  inconstant.  The  only 
certain  thing  about  them  is  the  lightning,  which  has 
been  throwing  its  cables  of  flame  from  its  aerial 
craft.  I  have  often  thought  a  thunder-cloud  might 
be  the  chariot  of  the  prince  of  darkness.  But  let 
that  pass :  digression  is  my  besetting  infirmity. 

This  morning,  large  masses  of  cloud  broke  the  ho- 
rizon in  the  east  with  their  dark  distended  forms. 
The  sun  coming  up  behind  them,  converted  their 
jagged  outline  into  fire,  and  poured  over  their  steep 
precipices  torrents  of  flame.  We  predicted  a  strong 
wind  from  that  quarter.  But  one  battlement  after 
another  tumbled  from  this  cloudy  fortress,  till  only 
a  few  tottering  bastions  remained,  and  these  soon 
dissolved, 

"  And  like  an  unsubstantial  vision  faded, 
Left  not  a  wreck  bcliind." 

We  felt  as  much  disappointed  as  a  confident  lover 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  55 


getting  a  blank  refusal.  How  singular  it  is  that  the 
enamored  youth  always  ascribes  the  first  negative 
to  female  delicacy,  and  the  second  to  the  hostility  of 
some  one  of  her  friends.  He  still  believes  she  loves 
him,  and  would  say  so  if  her  heart  could  only  speak 
out.  Perhaps  this  amiable  weakness  has  been  placed 
in  our  nature  to  relieve  disappointment,  and  suppress 
an  indignant  tone  from  wounded  pride. 

Friday,  Nov.  28.  This  morning  our  vanished 
clouds  reappeared  on  the  eastern  horizon,  and  as 
they  lifted,  a  strong  wind  streamed  down  from  that 
quarter,  and  we  were  able  to  lay  our  course.  We 
shook  the  only  reef  out  of  our  top-sails,  and  at  seven 
bells  set  our  top-gallant-sails.  The  sky  had  that 
light  haze  upon  it  peculiar  to  the  tropics.  The  sun 
melts  through  it,  instead  of  throwing  its  full  burning 
beams.  The  appearance  of  the  atmosphere  resem- 
bles in  some  respects  that  of  the  Indian  summer  in 
other  climes,  but  it  is  more  humid  and  softer.  In  the 
afternoon  the  wind  became  so  stiff  that  our  ship 
fairly  staggered  under  it.  Her  lee-guns  knocked  the 
c;i|>s  from  the  waves.  We  now  took  in  our  top- 
gallant-sails. At  sunset  we  took  a  reef  in  our  top- 
sails and  courses,  but  still  plunged  ahead  sufficiently 
last. 

Our  frigate  returned  from  her  last  cruise  with  a 
brilliant  reputation   for  speed, — a  reputation  which 


50  DECK   AND  PORT. 


she  has  not  sustained  thus  far  with  us.  Some  as- 
cribe this  loss  of  character  to  a  foul  bottom;  but  the 
three  thousand  miles  which  we  have  run,  must  have 
pretty  well  scoured  her  copper.  Others  ascribe  it  to 
her  lying  so  deep ;  but  this  difficulty  every  day  is 
removing  in  the  consumption  of  provisions  and 
water.  We  shall  soon  be  able  to  settle  the  truth  or 
fallacy  of  this  supposition.  The  truth  is,  a  ship  often 
loses  her  sailing  and  recovers  it  again  without  any 
satisfactory  reason.  The  United  States,  one  of  the 
best  sailors  in  the  service,  once  lost  her  reputation 
entirely,  but  recovered  it  again;  and  our  frigate  will, 
I  doubt  not,  regain  her  laurels.  Our  commodore  and 
captain  are  studying  her  points  as  anxiously  as  a 
gentleman  of  the  turf  those  of  a  race-horse  that  has 
had  the  misfortune  to  be  beaten  once. 

Saturday,  Nov.  29th.  Our  east  wind  still  holds 
steady  and  strong ;  we  are  running  nine  and  ten 
knots  on  our  course.  This  has  put  us  all  in  fine 
spirits,  notwithstanding  the  wet  condition  of  our 
frigate.  Only  give  a  sailor  a  good  ten-knot  breeze 
on  his  course,  and  he  wont  complain,  if  he  wades  in 
water  to  the  chin.  Some  of  us  had  a  fine  shower- 
bath  to-day.  We  were  reading  on  the  half  deck  be- 
tween the  weather  guns,  when  we  shipped  a  tremen- 
dous sea  through  the  ports,  which  half  buried  us  in 
its  surge.     Our  chairs  slipped  up,  and  we  were  turn- 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO  57 


bling   about    like   porpoises.      One   of  the   crew,   at 
least,  laughed  in  his  sleeve. 

This  reminds  me  of  an  occurrence  on  board  the 
Vincennes.  We  had  been  in  a  gale  for  two  days, 
which  at  last  broke  suddenly,  leaving  a  high  sea. 
Governor  V.  S.,  of  Santa  Cruz,  whom  we  were 
taking  out  as  passenger,  when  the  gale  had  broken, 
sent  an  invitation  to  the  wardroom  officers  to  come 
to  the  cabin  and  take  a  glass  of  whisky-punch  with 
him.  Total  abstinence  not  being  at  that  time  the 
order  of  the  day,  we  all  went  up.  The  governor 
stated  that  he  had  one  bottle  of  very  old  Irish 
whisky  with  him,  which  would  make  a  capital 
punch.  Tumblers  were  ordered ;  the  hot  water, 
whisky,  and  sugar,  in  due  proportions,  mixed  and 
stirred.  Now,  said  the  governor,  please  take  your 
glasses,  gentlemen,  and  I  will  propose  one  sentiment; 
each  lifted  his  glass,  when  a  tremendous  sea  struck 
us  under  the  counter,  and  pitched  us  all  in  a  mass 
together  on  the  floor.  Whisky,  glasses,  and  senti- 
ment all  came  down  in  one  crash.  The  first  thing 
I  heard  was  the  exclamatory  inquiry  of  the  governor, 
— "  Captain  Shubrick,  are  we  still  afloat  ?" 

Sunday,  Nov.  30th.  We  were  apprehensive  that 
our  sabbath  worship  would  be  broken  in  upon,  by  a 
dash  of  rain  from  some  of  the  clouds  that  were 
driving  over  our  ship.     But  only  a  few  drops  fell. 


58  DECK   AND  FORT. 


Sailors  have  but  very  little  respect  for  fair-weather 
Christians.  They  believe  the  course  to  heaven  lies 
through  a  stormy  sea,  and  that  a  man  to  get  there 
must  battle  with  hostile  elements.  They  like  plain, 
direct  preaching,  full  of  heart  and  strength.  They 
cannot  tolerate  a  display  of  literature,  or  metaphy- 
sical acumen,  in  a  sermon.  They  know  they  are 
wicked  and  unfit  for  heaven,  and  they  wish  to  be 
told  so.  The  man  who  should  tell  them  otherwise 
would  at  once  forfeit  their  confidence. 

A  gentleman  of  the  Universalist  persuasion  was 
once  appointed  a  chaplain  in  the  navy,  and  re- 
ported for  duty  on  board  one  of  our  ships  fitting 
for  sea.  His  creed  soon  became  known  to  the 
sailors,  and  was  freely  discussed  in  their  messes. 
"  If  we  are  all  so  good  that  we  are  going  to  heaven," 
said  an  old  tar,  "  what  is  the  use  in  overhauling 
one's  sins  ?  it  only  gives  a  man  a  bloody  sight  of  trouble 
for  nothing."  "  If  we  are  all  on  the  right  tack,"  said 
another,  "  and  must  bring  up  at  the  right  port,  what 
is  the  use  in  preaching  and  praying  about  it  ?"  "  If  we 
trust  this  doctrine,  and  it  don't  turn  out  true,  there'll 
be  hell  to  pay,"  exclaimed  a  third.  These  sentiments 
were  shared  in  by  the  whole  crew,  and  soon  became 
known  to  the  newly-appointed  chaplain.  He  resign- 
ed his  commission,  and  showed  a  considerateness 
in  doing  it  which  entitles  him  to  respect.  Sailors, 
ignorant  and  wicked  as  they  are,  can  never  be  made 


PASSAGE  TO   RIO-  59 

to  believe  that  the  good  and  bad  bring  up  at  last  in 
the  same  port. 

Monday,  Dec.  1.  Our  fine  east  wind,  which  has 
been  shoving  us  on  at  the  rate  of  two  hundred  and 
thirty  miles  a  day,  was  crossed  this  afternoon  by  a 
squall  from  the  south,  and  knocked  under.  We 
watched  its  overthrow  with  grief,  and  expected  for 
some  time  that  it  would  rally  and  overpower  its  an- 
tagonist. But  victory  remained  with  the  foe,  and 
we  were  driven  from  our  course.  In  the  mean  time, 
a  tropical  shower,  falling  without  premonition,  has 
drenched  all  on  duty  to  the  skin. 

These  reverses  fall  hardest  upon  the  gentlemen 
among  the  crew.  We  have  one,  an  Englishman  by 
birth,  who  was  living  a  few  months  since  at  the 
Astor  House,  drinking  the  choicest  wines  the  hotel 
could  furnish,  and  promenading  Broadway  in  white 
kid  gloves,  with  gold-headed  cane  and  quizzing-glass. 
But  suddenly,  from  some  freak  of  nature,  he  threw 
himself  into  our  ship  as  a  common  sailor.  He  is 
about  twenty  years  of  age,  full  six  feet  high,  and  ex- 
tremely well  proportioned.  He  has  a  small  foot  and 
hand,  an  open  cheerful  countenance,  large  floating 
eye,  and  hair  that  falls  in  showering  ringlets.  ]!<■  i- 
willing  and  prompt  in  the  performance  of  every  duty. 
But  what  a  transition!  The  Astor  House  lor  a  wet 
rolling  deck,  its  beds  of  down  for  a  hammock,  its  rich 


CO  DECK  AND  PORT. 


viands  and  desserts  for  salt  junk  and  hard  tack.  The 
last  London  cut  in  coat,  pants,  and  beaver,  for  a  blue 
roundabout,  ducks,  and  tarpaulin,  and  a  gold-headed 
cane  for  a  tarred  rope !  And  yet  he  is  cheerful,  and 
seemingly  ambitious  of  excelling  as  a  sailor.  How 
nature  accommodates  herself  to  circumstances ! 

Tuesday,  Dec  2.  Poor  Lynch,  one  of  our  crew, 
from  the  state  of  Maine,  died  last  evening,  and  we 
have  to-day,  as  the  sun  was  setting,  committed  his 
remains  to  the  deep.  He  has  left  a  pious  mother,  of 
whom  he  often  spoke  to  me  in  his  last  sickness. 
She  seemed  to  be  the  strongest  tie  that  fastened  him 
to  earth.  Her  early  lessons  of  piety  awoke  with 
singular  power  as  his  end  approached.  They  crowd- 
ed thick  and  fast  upon  his  heart ;  he  clung  to  them 
as  something  that  could  stay  him,  something  that 
could  lift  him  above  present  suffering  and  future  ap- 
prehension. He  died  under  the  light  of  these  senti- 
ments, and  in  an  humble  hope  of  the  happiness  which 
they  promise  to  the  pure  and  meek. 

At  the  call,  "  All  hands  to  bury  the  dead !"  the 
officers  and  crew  took  their  stations.  The  body, 
wound  in  its  hammock,  and  preceded  by  the  chap- 
lain, was  brought  up  the  fore  hatch  and  round  the 
capstan  to  the  waist,  the  band  playing  the  "  dead- 
march,"  and  the  marine-guard  presenting  arms.  The 
service  was  read,  and  the  hollow  sound  of  the  harn- 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  01 


mocked  dead  descending  through  the  sea,  told  that 
another  of  our  crew  had  left  us  for  ever.  This  is  the 
third  that  we  have  lost  within  less  than  thirty  days. 
The  death  of  a  man  in  a  crowded  town  is  little  felt, 
but  in  a  ship's  crew  it  leaves  a  vacuum  which  all 
observe.  Still,  these  bereavements  are  so  blended 
with  the  vicissitudes  of  a  sea  life,  that  they  fail  to 
make  a  permanent  impression ;  they  are  felt  deeply 
for  the  moment  and  then  glide  away. 

"As  from  the  wing  the  sky  no  scar  retains, 
The  parted  wave  no  furrow  from  the  keel, 
So  dies  in  human  hearts  the  thought  of  death." 

Wednesday,  Dec.  3.  Our  trade-wind  has  left  us 
utterly.  We  have  had  a  regular  Irishman's  hurri- 
cane— up  and  down.  The  rain  fell  in  a  perfect 
avalanche ;  with  all  the  scuppers  open,  the  water 
became,  in  a  few  minutes,  almost  knee  deep  on  the 
spar-deck.  The  rolling  of  the  ship  threw  it  over  the 
combings  of  the  hatches,  and  down  it  came  upon  the 
gun-deck,  and  then  took  another  leap  below,  Hood- 
ing the  ward-room,  steerage,  and  berth-deck.  With 
the  hatches  covered,  and  the  external  air  excluded, 
the  heat  below  soon  became  intolerable.  Our  choice 
lay  between  being  roasted  or  drenched.  Most  of  us 
preferred  the  latter,  and  emerged  into  the  drifting 
sea  above. 

In  the  midst  of  these  troubles,  our  cook  came  aft 
6 


62  DECK   AND  PORT. 


and  informed  our  caterer  that  the  water  came  in 
such  floods  into  the  galley,  that  he  could  not  keep 
fire  enough  alive  to  light  his  pipe  by.  This  was 
good  news  for  our  last  pig,  who  looked  out  from  his 
gratings  as  one  that  has  another  day  to  live.  I 
always  pity  the  last  tenant  of  the  coop  and  sty.  He 
looks  so  lonely,  so  disconsolate  in  the  midst  of  that 
voiceless  solitude,  which  the  untimely  death  of  his 
companions  has  spread  around  him,  that  I  could 
never  have  the  heart  to  kill  him.  It  seems  like  ex- 
tinguishing the  last  of  a  race.  Indeed,  I  would  never 
take  the  life  of  any  thing,  unless  it  was  in  the  way 
in  which  the  Irishman  thought  his  squirrel  might 
have  been  killed.  Two  of  them  were  gunning,  and 
had  treed  a  large  squirrel  upon  a  very  high  limb. 
One  of  them,  a  little  more  experienced  at  the  busi- 
ness, lifted  and  fired  his  old  Queen's-arm ;  down 
came  the  squirrel  with  a  bone-breaking  crash ;  when 
the  other  exclaimed,  "An'  faith,  you  might  as  well 
have  spared  your  pooder,  the  fall  itself  would  ha' 
kilt  him." 

Thursday,  Dec.  4.  We  caught,  two  days  since, 
a  stormy  petrel.  As  the  bird  was  brought  on  board, 
the  old  sailors  around  shook  their  heads  with  omin- 
ous looks  of  dissatisfaction.  "  We'll  have  a  blow  for 
that,"  said  an  old  salt ;  and  sure  enough,  before  the 
wings  of  the  petrel  were  dry  a  storm  set  in.     "  We'll 


PASSAGE  TO   RIO.  03 


have  no  more  fair  weather,"  said  another,  "  till  that 
petrel  is  put  back  into  the  sea."  "  I  knew  a  ship," 
exclaimed  a  third,  "  that  had  a  forty  days'  gale  for 
having  killed  a  petrel ;  and  if  that  bird  dies  on  board, 
we'll  escape  a  wreck  by  the  skin  of  our  teeth,  or 
we'll  rot  down  in  a  dead  calm."  Our  storm  con- 
tinued without  any  token  of  abatement,  and  last 
evening  the  ominous  bird  was  returned  in  safety  to 
its  element.  The  clouds  soon  swept  past,  the  sun 
emerged  into  a  bright  sapphire  sky,  and  a  leading 
wind  from  the  southeast  sprung  up. 

How  far  the  return  of  the  petrel  to  the  sea  in- 
fluenced this  auspicious  change  in  the  elements,  I 
leave  to  the  decision  of  those  who  have  more  or  less 
philosophy  than  myself.  I  must  confess  I  was  glad 
to  see  the  petrel  go  back.  There  is  a  sacredness 
attached  to  this  bird  that  should  exempt  it  from  vio- 
lence. It  is  supposed  to  be  the  form  in  which  the 
spirit  of  some  one,  who  has  been  sepulchred  in  the 
sea,  still  floats  in  troubled  light,  and  that  when  its 
penance  is  passed,  it  will  be  translated  to  some  higher 
form  which  the  gale  and  the  breaker  can  never  reach. 
This  may  all  be  superstition,  but  it  is  a  glimmering 
of  the  great  truth  of  man's  immortality.  He  who 
believes  that  man  can  survive  death  in  the  shape  of 
a  bird,  is  more  than  half  way  to  the  belief  that  he  can 
survive  in  the  form  of  an  angel. 

It  is  a  tranquil  eve  ;  our  ship  is  gliding  quietly  on  , 


64  DECK   AND  P3RT. 


my  thoughts,  unoccupied  here,  run  warmly  back  to 
those  left  behind — to  the  loved  and  lost 

CATHARA. 

The  evening  star  sleeps  in  the  moon's  pale  rim, 
And  slumber  rocks  the  weary  world  to  rest ; 

Nor  wakes  a  sound  except  the  vesper  hymn 

Of  pines,  that  murmur  on  the  mountain's  crest ; 

And  now,  at  this  lone  hour,  fond  thoughts  of  thee 

Melt  o'er  my  heart  as  music  on  the  sea. 

But  thou  hast  gone,  hast  winged  thy  silent  flight 
O'er  Death's  dim  waters  to  the  spirit-land ; 

Thy  faith  discerned  its  hills  of  purple  light 
Ere  yet  thy  footstep  left  our  mortal  strand ; 

As  closed  the  shadows  on  thy  farewell  track, 

A  whisper  of  thy  bliss  came  floating  back. 

It  came  too  soft  and  low  for  Echo's  breath, 
And  died,  with  tender  transport  in  its  tone ; 

But  ere  it  ceased,  it  reached  the  ear  of  Death, 
And  shook  the  sable  monarch  on  his  throne  ; 

He  knew  the  omen,  which  that  whisper  gave, 

"Would  burst  one  day  in  thunder  from  the  grave. 

Friday,  Dec  5.  We  are  to-day  in  lat.  3°  23'  n., 
long.  28°  20'  w.  We  have  a  steady  but  light  breeze 
from  the  southeast,  and  are  heading  south  by  south- 
west, with  half  a  point  westerly  variation.  We  shall 
cross  the  line  if  this  wind  holds,  and  there  is  now 
little  prospect  of  change,  at  30°.  This  is  three  or 
four  degrees  further  west  than  most  ships  bound  to 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  65 


Rio  de  Janeiro  venture  to  cross  it  at.  Still,  unless 
we  encounter  westerly  currents  on  the  other  side  of 
the  line,  we  expect  to  be  able  to  double  Cape  San 
Roque,  and  proceed  directly  to  our  port.  Should 
we  be  disappointed,  we  shall  be  obliged  to  make  a 
long  tack  to  the  northeast,  which  may  keep  us  many 
days  longer  at  sea.  But  we  are  going  to  make  the 
experiment,  and  must  bide  the  consequences.  Noth- 
ing can  be  less  certain  than  a  ship's  progress.  Even 
those  winds  deemed  regular  and  almost  infallible  by 
mariners,  seem  now  and  then  infected  with  the  last 
degree  of  fickleness  and  perversity. 

We  have  now  been  thirty-six  days  at  sea  without 
an  isle  or  promontory  to  break  the  dim  horizon,  or 
relieve  the  vast  rolling  waste  of  waters.  Harmony 
and  good  feeling  prevail  among  the  officers.  There 
has  not  been  the  slightest  clash  of  feeling  between 
our  Captain  and  those  who  carry  on  duty  under  him. 
And  yet  the  most  energetic  forms  of  discipline  have 
been  maintained.  The  crew  are  cheerful  and  active. 
Punishments  have  been  very  rare.  The  cats  have 
been  used  but  once  since  we  weighed  anchor.  Ef- 
ficiency has  been  secured  by  a  thorough  attention  to 
details  on  the  part  of  Mr.  Livingston,  our  first  lieu- 
tenant, and  the  watch  officers. 

Saturday,  Dkc.  G.     We  are  now  within  one  de- 
gree of  the  equator.     But  the  wind  having  hauled 
fi* 


6G  DECK  AND  PORT. 


rouncPone  point  east  of  south,  we  have  been  obliged 
to  go  upon  our  starboard  tack  to  avoid  crossing  it 
too  far  to  the  west.  We  shall  probably  have  made 
sufficient  easting  by  to-morrow  noon  to  make  a  dash 
over  it.  Then  for  a  new  hemisphere  and  new  con- 
stellations. But  we  have  a  splendid  moon  to-night, 
directly  in  the  centre  of  the  great  dome  of  heaven. 
Our  masts  cast  no  shadow.  This  position  gives  the 
moon  a  much  greater  apparent  distance  than  it  has 
when  near  the  horizon.  It  now  seems  as  some 
heaven-born  sphere,  that,  having  in  vain  tried  to  win 
you  from  the  cares  of  earth,  has  gone  back  with  mel- 
ancholy countenance  to  its  choiring  sisterhood  on 
high. 

"  There's  not  the  smallest  orb,  •which  thou  behold'st, 
But  in  his  motion,  like  an  angel,  sings, 
Still  choiring  to  the  young-eyed  cherubim." 

We  had  a.  visit,  a  few  evenings  since,  from  a  whale. 
We  were  lying  in  a  dead  calm,  when  this  monster 
saluted  us  like  a  locomotive  blowing  off  steam.  The 
column  of  brine  which  he  threw  up  with  his  great 
forcing-pump,  fell  in  a  sparkling  shower.  Man  con- 
structs his  fountain  with  great  cost  and  pains,  and 
when  all  is  done,  it  can  play  only  in  that  one  place : 
but  *he  whale  moves  about,  throwing  up  his  brilliant 
cascade  at  will  in  every  zone.  The  springs  may 
*ail,  the  streams  forsake  their  channels,  but  this  show- 


PASSAGE   TO  RIO.  67 


ering  column  still  soars  from  a  source  exhaustless  as 
the  mighty  deep.  Give  me  the  whale  and  ocean  for 
a  fountain,  and  you  may  do  what  you  please  with 
your  drizzling  pipes  and  frog-ponds. 

Sunday,  Dec.  7th.  At  eleven  o'clock,  the  tolling 
of  the  ship's  bell  announced  the  hour  of  worship. 
The  officers  took  their  accustomed  station  on  the 
starboards-quarter ;  the  marines  on  the  poop-deck ; 
the  crew  on  the  larboard-quarter,  stretching  back  to 
the  waist  and  circling  the  main-mast  to  the  opposite 
side  ;  the  band  and  singers  between  the  after-hatches; 
Mr.  Ten  Eyche  and  Mr.  Turrel,  with  their  families, 
forming  a  group  between  the  officers  and  marines. 
The  commodore,  being  informed  by  the  captain  that 
the  crew  were  assembled  for  worship,  appeared  and 
took  his  station  on  the  left  of  the  officers.  The 
chaplain  then  took  his  station  at  the  capstan,  which 
was  covered  with  a  large  flag,  when  the  band  played 
the  impressive  air  to  the  words,  "  O  come  and  let  us 
worship." 

We  sung  the  missionary  hymn — "  From  Green- 
land's icy  mountain" — a  hymn  for  which  sailors 
have  the  greatest  partiality.  The  splendid  imagery 
of  this  hymn,  and  the  rich  melody  of  the  music, 
always  take  hold  of  the  sailor.  It  has  something  of 
the  same  effect  on  him,  which  the  impassioned  elo- 
quence of  Peter  the  Hermit  must   have  had,  when 


68  DECK  AND  PORT. 


he  poured  the  population  of  Europe,  in  tumultuous 
crusades,  on  the  bosom  of  Asia.  If  sailors  could  win 
their  way  to  heaven  with  weapons  of  war,  there  is  no 
act  of  hardship  or  daring  from  which  they  would 
shrink.  But  when  you  throw  them  back  upon  their 
own  hearts,  and  confine  them  to  the  enemy  found 
there,  they  are  too  apt  to  make  a  truce ;  still,  so  far 
are  they  from  being  unsusceptible  of  religious  im- 
pression, that  could  I  at  all  times  select  my  auditory 
and  place  of  worship,  I  would  take  a  ship  of  the  line 
with  her  thousand  sailors  on  her  spar  deck  ;  and,  if  1 
failed  of  making  an  impression  there,  I  should  despair 
of  making  it  anywhere. 

Monday,  Dec  8th.  The  watch  in  the  main-top 
discovered  this  morning,  at  break  of  day,  a  sail  just 
peering  up  over  the  swelling  sweep  of  the  sea.  She 
was  hull  down  ;  indeed,  the  little  canvas  that  loomed 
to  the  eye  might  easily  have  been  mistaken  for  one 
of  those  small  sheets  of  vapor  which  seem  blent  with 
the  spray  of  a  wave.  But  sail  after  sail  emerged  into 
vision  till  her  hull  broke  with  its  dark  mass  the  bright 
line  of  the  horizon.  She  came  down  to  us  before  the 
wind,  with  her  royals  and  studding-sails  set,  and 
with  the  American  ensign  flying  from  her  mizen- 
peak. 

She  proved  to  be  the  whale-ship  Jason,  of  New 
London ;    twelve   days    from    St.    Helena ;    bound 


PASSAGE   TO  RIO.  G9 


home.  She  had  been  out  on  her  whaling  expedition 
seventeen  months,  and  had  secured  in  that  time 
twenty-eight  thousand  gallons  of  oil,  and  forty-six 
thousand  pounds  of  whalebone.  The  second  mate,  a 
noble  tough  tar,  who  came  on  board,  told  us  that 
his  portion  of  the  spoil  would  be  eight  hundred  dol- 
lars. He  wanted  some  powder  and  shot  to  keep  oil' 
the  Mexicans.  We  told  him  there  was  no  war  with 
Mexico  ;  still  he  should  be  welcome  to  some  ammu- 
nition, certainly  enough  to  fire  a  salute  as  he  wound 
into  the  harbor  of  New  London. 

All  pens  were  now  put  in  motion  to  dispatch  tet- 
ters home.  Go  where  you  would,  fore  or  aft,  nothing 
was  to  be  heard  but  the  scratch  of  these  pens.  What 
surprised  me  most  was  the  number  of  sailors  who 
were  driving  the  quill.  How  they  can  carry  paper 
in  their  clothes-bags  unrumpled,  where  every  thing 
else  is  mussed  up,  is  more  than  I  can  explain.  But 
of  all  beings  the  sailor  is  most  fertile  i«  expedients. 
He  stows  away  every  thing  in  his  clothes-bag,  from 
a  mirror  to  a  marlin-spike,  from  a  cable  to  a  cambric 
needle,  and  has  plenty  of  room  remaining. 

The  captain  of  the  Jason  kindly  offered  to  take 
any  officer  to  the  United  States  whom  the  commander- 
in-chief  might  wish  to  dispatch.  Our  commodore 
fixed  on  Mr.  Morris,  his  secretary,  who  was  very  de- 
sirous of  going;  and  having  given  him  an  outfit,  in 
the  shape  of  provisions  and  funds,  equal  to  all  emor- 


70  DECK   AND  PORT. 


gencies,  instructed  him  to  get  the  President's  mes- 
sage, the  proceedings  of  Congress,  all  the  news  of  the 
day,  with  letters  for  the  officers  of  the  ship,  take  the 
first  packet  to  Chagres,  cross  over  to  Panama,  and 
join  him  at  the  nearest  point  practicable.  The  let- 
ters now  being  bagged,  a  boat  was  called  away,  Mr. 
Morris  took  leave  of  us,  and  was  soon  on  the  deck  of 
the  Jason.  The  sturdy  whaler  squared  round  before 
the  wind,  we  filled  away,  and  when  the  sun  went 
down  were  once  more  alone  on  the  ocean. 

Each  seemed  lost  in  thoughts  of  the  surprise  and 
pleasure  which  the  letters  he  had  thus  unexpectedly 
been  able  to  send  back  would  awaken.  One  of  our 
best  young  sailors  told  me  his  mother  would  weep  for 
joy  over  his  letter,  and  sleep  for  a  month  with  it  un- 
der her  pillow.  No  eloquence  that  ever  flowed  from 
human  lips  affected  me  half  so  much  as  the  simple 
remark  of  this  dutiful  sailor.  There  was  a  tender- 
ness, a  truthfulness,  a  moral  beauty  in  it,  which  made 
me  forget  the  rough  exterior  of  the  being  from  whom 
it  came.  He  seemed  as  a  brother  whom  I  could  take 
to  my  heart,  and  whose  hard  lot  I  could  most  cheer- 
fully share.  That  man  who  can  forget  his  mother, 
who  can  forget  the  sorrows  and  solicitudes  which  she 
has  endured  for  him,  and  the  lessons  of  piety  which 
she  instilled  into  his  young  mind,  has  sundered  the 
last  tie  that  binds  him  to  virtue  and  a  reasonable 
hope  of  heaven. 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  71 


Tuesday,  Dec.  9.  Our  painters  commenced  to-day 
painting  our  gun-carriages  black.  They  had  a  coat 
of  white  paint  when  we  left  port,  but  it  soon  became 
dingy  and  defaced  by  the  rough-and-tumble  of  sea 
usage.  Black  paint  can  easily  be  restored  ;  a  few 
coats  of  varnish  will  make  it  shine  like  a  C01150  un- 
der  his  native  sun.  The  objects  to  be  aimed  at  in  the 
use  of  paint  on  board  a  man-of-war  are  neatness, 
preservation,  economy  in  money  and  time.  There 
is  nothing  fantastic,  but  all  is  substantial  and  endu- 
ring. It  is  in  harmony  with  the  solid  oak  out  of 
which  the  storm-defying  fabric  is  itself  constructed. 

I  have  been  attached  to  ships  where  the  belaying- 
pins,  the  midship-stanchions,  and  even  crowbars, 
were  bright  work.  The  amount  of  labor  bestowed 
upon  them  during  a  three  years'  cruise,  might,  if 
properly  directed,  have  almost  constructed  another 
ship  equal  to  that  of  which  these  are  mere  blacksmith 
appendages.  Were  sailors  merely  unthinking  ma- 
chines, it  might  do  to  keep  them  employed  on  such 
work  ;  but  as  it  is,  the  idea  will  often  force  itself 
upon  them  that  their  labor  is  a  frivolous  waste  of 
time.  This  renders  them  impatient  and  remiss,  and 
this  impatience  and  remissness  soon  extends  to  their 
other  duties.  Keep  sailors  employed,  but  let  them 
feel  that  their  employment  is  working  out  some  ade- 
quate ends.  No  man  will  continue  to  roll  an  empty 
wheelbarrow,  however  liberally  paid  for  his  services. 


72  DECK  AND  PORT. 


Wednesday,  Dec.  10.  This  morning,  with  our 
royals  set  to  a  steady  southeaster,  we  dashed  across 
the  equator  at  longitude  thirty.  That  great  circle, 
cutting  the  continents,  mountains,  oceans,  and  islands 
of  the  globe  asunder,  now  threw  its  steep  plane  be- 
tween us  and  the  thousand  objects  to  which  memory 
clings  with  affection  and  pride.  The  sunset  clouds 
on  which  we  had  gazed,  the  towering  crags  where 
morn  first  broke,  and  the  brilliant  constellations  which 
faith  had  peopled  with  the  spirits  of  the  pure  and 
meek,  all  went  down  in  dying  pomp  over  the  dim 
horizon.  What  now  to  us  Niagara's  thunder,  or  the 
rush  of  the  Alpine  avalanche !  Even  the  polar  star, 
that  has  poured  its  steady  light  for  ages  on  the  ruins 
of  pyramids,  the  wrecks  of  temples,  and  the  graves 
of  empires,  has  left  its  watch-tower  in  darkness, — 
all  are  lost  in  the  shoreless  ocean  of  night. 

Old  Neptune  formerly  saluted  every  ship  that 
crossed  the  line.  He  appeared  in  the  shape  of  some 
tall  sturdy  tar,  in  ox-hide  mail,  with  a  long  beard  of 
yarn  falling  far  below  his  chin,  and  locks  of  the  same 
flowing  in  drenched  ringlets  down  his  shoulders. 
His  trident  was  a  huge  harpoon,  his  pipe  the  coiled 
hose  of  the  fire-engine  ;  thus  accoutred,  he  hailed  the 
ship  over  her  bows,  and  mounting  a  gun-carriage, 
was  drawn  aft  to  the  quarter-deck.  Here  he  sum- 
moned the  green  horns  to  his  presence,  and  after 
lathering  them  from  a  tub  of  grease  and  tar,  shaved 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  73 


them  with  a  ship's  scraper.  Having  thus  introduced 
the  novice  into  his  service,  he  returned  in  triumph 
to  his  watery  realm.  This  ceremony  was  found  such 
an  infraction  of  discipline,  that  it  has  been  discon- 
tinued on  board  our  national  ships.  Our  sailors  were 
allowed  to  splice  the  main-brace  as  a  substitute. 

Thursday,  Dec  11.  A  delicate  question  of  disci- 
pline occurred  to-day.  The  master's  mate  of  the 
gun-deck,  finding  the  captain  of  the  main-top  behind 
the  rest  in  lashing  and  stowing  his  hammock,  ordered 
him  to  clean  the  bell, — a  menial  service,  and  intend- 
ed as  a  punishment.  The  captain  of  the  main-top, 
knowing  the  order  to  be  illegal  and  derogatory  to 
his  position,  declined  compliance.  He  was  reported 
to  the  officer  of  the  deck  and  confined.  All  this  had 
taken  place  without  the  knowledge  of  the  first  lieu- 
tenant or  the  commander.  When  known  to  them, 
the  facts  were  promptly  inquired  into.  I  felt  some 
interest  in  seeing  how  Captain  Du  Pont  would  dis- 
pose of  the  question. 

The  illegality  of  an  order,  though  it  may  mitigate 
the  offence,  cannot  for  a  moment  justify  disobe- 
dience. Such  a  doctrine  would  make  every  man  a 
judge  in  his  own  case,  and  overthrow  discipline.  He 
must  obey  the  order,  and  seek  redress  at  its  proper 
source.  The  offender  saw  his  error,  as  exhibited  to 
him  by  Captain  Du  Pont,  and  said  he  should  submit 
7 


74  DECK   AND  PORT. 


to  any  punishment  which  the  government  of  the  ship 
required.  That  was  enough  ;  he  was  one  of  our  best 
men,  this  his  first  offence,  and  Captain  Du  Pont  very 
properly  at  once  restored  him  to  duty.  Now  what 
would  have  been  the  moral  effect  of  inflicting  chas- 
tisement on  that  man,  as  some,  in  a  spirit  of  haste, 
might  have  done.  It  might  have  broken  his  ambi- 
tion. It  would  certainly  have  reduced  him  to  a  lash- 
level  with  the  hardened  culprit.  It  would  have 
relieved  punishment  of  some  portion  of  the  shame 
which  attaches  to  it.  The  bad  always  exult  when 
they  see  any  portion  of  their  disgrace  transferred  to 
the  good ;  therefore  never  punish  a  good  faithful 
sailor  for  the  first  offence  into  which  he  may  be  be- 
trayed, if  there  is  any  way  of  getting  round  it.  Let 
his  virtues 

"  Plead  for  him  like  angels,  trumpet-tongueA" 

Friday,  Dec  12.  We  have  had,  for  three  days,  the 
regular  trade-wind  from  the  southeast,  and  have  been 
running  under  royals  and  studding-sails,  from  seven  to 
ten  knots  the  hour.  The  thermometer  has  ranged  at 
75,  the  air  has  been  balmy,  and  the  sky  free  of  clouds. 
What  a  contrast  to  the  weather  of  the  line, — where 
a  cloud  gathered  before  you  could  turn  your  eye,  and 
where  showers  fell  like  water  from  some  vast  reser- 
voir, with  the  bottom  suddenly  knocked  out ! 

A  flying-fish,  hard  pressed  by  a  dolphin,  took  refuge 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  75 


on  the  deck  of  our  ship.  He  might  as  well  have  re- 
mained in  the  sea,  for  he  was  instantly  secured  by 
one  of  our  sailors,  and  presented  by  him  to  a  lady 
passenger,  who,  with  too  little  feeling,  fried  and  ate 
him.  It  is  true  he  had  the  satisfaction  of  being  eaten 
by  a  lady,  which  was  perhaps  preferable  to  being 
swallowed  by  a  dolphin.  How  many  frantic  lovers 
there  are  who  would  like  to  be  eaten  up  by  their 
mistress  !  Besides,  it  is  in  much  better  taste  to  dis- 
pose of  one's  self  in  this  way,  than  making  a  plunge 
into  the  sea  to  feed  a  hungry  shark.  Still,  for  one,  I 
should  not  like  to  see  a  woman  coming  at  me  with  a 
frying-pan. 

Our  batteries,  in  their  black  paint,  look  solid  and 
uncompromising.  Their  threatening  strength  re- 
minds one  of  the  terrific  lines  of  Campbell,  in  the 
Battle  of  the  Baltic  :— 

"  When  each  gaa, 
From  its  adamantine  lips, 
S]  nt  ad  a  death-shade  round  the  ships 
Like  the  hurricane's  eclipse 
Of  the  sun." 

Saturday,  Dec  13.  A  booby  was  seen  last  even- 
ing, at  sunset,  circling  around  our  masts.  He  was 
looking  where  he  should  light  when  it  should  become 
sufficiently  dark.  lie  lives  on  what  he  can  find  in 
the  sea,  but  prefers  a  spar  to  a  wave  on  which  to 
roost.     He   has   sense   enough   to   know    that   when 


76  DECK  AND  PORT. 


asleep,  the  fish  may  avenge  upon  him  some  of  the 
wrongs  which  he  inflicts.  But  he  is,  after  all,  a  very- 
stupid  fellow.  He  secures  his  prey  often  at  the  ex- 
pense of  his  life,  and  that,  too,  when  there  is  no  ne- 
cessity for  it.  If  a  little  billow  casts  a  dead  fish  on 
a  rock,  he  poises  over  it  for  a  moment  to  be  sure  of 
his  mark,  and  then  plunging  down,  head  first,  dashes 
his  own  brains  out ;  very  much  like  a  politician  who 
rushes  so  hard  upon  an  office  that  he  destroys  him- 
self in  its  attainment.  The  senate  is,  in  this  case, 
the  rock  on  which  his  little  craft  splits. 

We  are  now  approaching  the  region  of  dolphins, 
porpoises,  sharks,  and  small  whales.  Our  sailors  are 
rigging  their  hooks  and  harpoons.  It  will  be  difficult 
for  any  thing  that  comes  near  us  to  escape  their  glit- 
tering steel.  Their  hostility  falls  mostly  on  the 
shark.  They  regard  him  as  a  graver  robber.  He 
can  expect  no  mercy.  The  loudest  note  of  exulta- 
tion I  ever  heard  on  board  a  man-of-war,  was  when 
one  of  these  fellows  was  brought  on  board.  "  There," 
said  a  rough  salt,  "  you  have  been  prowling  about 
here  to  get  a  nab  at  us,  and  have  got  nabbed  your- 
self— you  old  blood-sucker  !"  There  are  three  beings 
that  can  expect  no  mercy  in  misfortune, — a  rat,  a 
tyrant,  and  a  shark.  Of  the  three  I  would  soonest 
spare  the  rat ;  I  always  associated  something  respect- 
able with  his  long  tail.     But  let  that  pass. 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  77 


Sunday,  Dec.  14.  We  have  had  the  awning 
spread,  and  have  held  divine  service.  All  joined  in, 
and  sung  Old  Hundred  to  the  hymn  commencing 
with  the  lines — 

"  God  of  the  seas,  thine  awful  voice 
Bids  all  the  rolling  waves  rejoice." 

The  impressiveness  of  a  service  at  sea  is  owing, 
in  part,  to  the  isolation  of  those  on  board.  There 
is  nothing  around  to  distract  the  attention,  or  win  a 
diverted  thought.  Around  rolls  or  rests  the  melan- 
choly main — above  stretches  the  blue  heaven,  and 
over  all  reigns  that  Supreme  Intelligence,  at  whose 
fiat  resplendent  worlds  rolled  from  chaotic  night. 
All  is  vast  and  awful,  like  that  state  of  being  into 
which  we  are  ushered  at  death.  It  is  this  that 
makes  the  sailor  religious,  and  inspires  him  with  re- 
spect for  all  the  great  truths  which  throw  their  light 
through  the  night  of  the  grave. 

The  errors  and  vices  of  the  sailor  seldom  result 
from  skepticism.  I  never  met  with  one  who  denied 
or  doubted  the  existence  of  a  God,  the  wickedness 
of  the  human  heart,  or  the  realities  of  a  future  state. 
They  attach  a  much  higher  offence  to  a  disrespect 
to  the  Bible,  than  the  use  of  profane  language.  They 
seem  to  think  a  man's  impulses  may  be  wrong,  while 
in  the  main  he  is  good.  The  spirit  is  willing,  but 
the  flesh  is  weak.     They  have  a  law  in  their  mem- 

7* 


78  DECK  AND  PORT. 


bcrs  warring  against  the  law  of  their  mind,  and 
bringing  them  into  captivity  to  Satan  ;  and  yet  they 
are  free  to  denounce  that  captivity,  and  brand  it  as 
the  source  of  all  their  degredation  and  misery.  Their 
loathing  spirits,  touched  with  a  diviner  life,  often  ex- 
claim, "  Who  shall  deliver  us  from  this  body  of  sin 
and  death  ?" 

Monday,  Dec  15.  We  were  to-day,  at  12  o'clock, 
in  lat.  15°  46'  s.,  long.  36°  58'  w.  We  have  run 
within  the  last  five  days  a  thousand  miles,  and  are 
now  within  six  hundred  and  sixty  miles  of  Rio 
Three  or  four  days  more,  and  we  shall  probably  be 
at  rest  in  one  of  the  most  magnificent  bays  in  the 
world.  Our  ship  is  in  prime  condition  for  displaying 
her  symmetry  and  strength.  She  is  indebted  for  this 
to  the  experience  and  activity  of  our  captain  and 
first  lieutenant.  They  are  thorough  in  the  details  of 
ship  duty,  and  are  sustained  by  efficient  officers.  To 
keep  a  man-of-war  trig,  taxes  the  profoundest  pa- 
tience and  energy.  It  requires  an  eye  that  sees 
every  thing,  and  a  fidelity  that  neglects  nothing. 

I  saw  this  morning,  at  daybreak,  an  old  tar  stand- 
ing alone  on  the  forecastle.  His  stalwart  form  rose 
in  bold  relief  on  the  brightening;  skv.  His  dark  locks 
flowed  out  from  under  his  tarpaulin  upon  the  wind. 
His  large  deep  eye  was  fastened  on  the  sun  as  it 
came  whirling  up  in  splendor  out  of  the  sea.     His 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  79 


large  sinewy  arms  were  extended,  as  if  to  welcome 
some  being  that  inspired  reverence  and  love  ;  when 
Milton's  sublime  apostrophe  to  light  rolled  in  solemn 
emphasis  from  his  lips  : — 

"  Hail,  holy  Light !  offspring  of  Heaven,  first  bora 
Or  of  the  eternal  co-eternal  beam  ! 
May  I  express  thee  unblamed  ?  since  God  is  light, 
And  never  but  in  unapproached  light, 
Dwelt  from  eternity,  dwelt  then  in  thee, 
Bright  affluence  of  bright  essence  increate." 

Tuesday,  Dec.  16.  This  is  beautiful  sailing: ;  a 
soft,  balmy  atmosphere,  a  smooth  sea,  and  a  breeze 
that  carries  us  seven  and  eight  knots  the  hour.  We 
have  not  taken  in  our  studding-sails  for  several  days  ; 
while  our  royals  seemed  to  have  entered  into  an 
agreement  with  our  broad  pennant  to  stand  or  come 
down  together.  The  day  is  not  darkened  by  clouds, 
and  the  night  is  filled  with  the  soft  light  of  the  moon. 
The  stars  come  out  from  the  blue  vault  of  heaven, 
and  blaze  with  a  distinctness  and  force  that  makes 
each  one  seem  some  central  source  of  exhaust- 
less  and  unquenchable  splendor.  Of  this  high  host 
Jupiter  leads  the  way;  to  him  the  eye  of  the  sailor 
turns  as  that  of  the  Moslem  to  the  crescent  that 
glows  on  the  minaret  of  his  prophet. 

An  officer  to-day,  after  reprimanding  a  sailor  for 
some  alleged  neglect  of  duty,  told  him  to  go  forward  ; 


80  DECK   AND  PORT. 


that  he  was  such  a  perfect  nondescript  that  he  did 
not  know  what  to  do  with  him.  So  forward  Jack 
went,  muttering  to  himself  nondescript — what  does 
that  mean  ?  "  Here,  Wilkins,"  said  he,  "  can  you  tell 
me  what  nondescript  means  ?  the  officer  of  the  deck 
called  me  a  nondescript,  and  I  want  to  know  what  it 
means — something  bad,  I  suppose,  for  he  was  mighty- 
angry."  "  No,"  said  Wilkins,  "  I  don't  know  what  it 
means ;  call  Tim  Shades,  he  can  tell  you."  Now 
this  latter  person  was  a  sort  of  ship's  dictionary,  and 
though  perhaps  as  ignorant  as  any  on  board,  had  a 
meaning  for  every  thing,  and  a  reason  for  it  besides. 
So  Tim  Shades  came.  "  What  does  nondescript 
mean  ?"  inquired  the  aggrieved  sailor.  Our  lexicog- 
rapher seemed  at  first  a  little  puzzled  ;  but  soon  set- 
tling his  features  into  oracular  solemnity,  replied  : — 
"Nondescript  means  one  who  gets  into  heaven  with- 
out being  regularly  entered  on  the  books."  "  Is  that 
all  it  means  ?"  ejaculated  the  offended  sailor  ;  "  well, 
well,  I  shall  be  glad  to  get  there  any  way,  poor  sinner 
as  I  am."  Were  there  more  of  the  spirit  of  this 
sailor  among  sectarians,  there  would  be  less  alterca- 
tion about  the  right  road,  and  quite  as  much  speed. 

Wednesday,  Dec  17.  Another  hundred  miles  of 
the  distance  that  separated  us  from  Rio  has  been  left 
behind.  Four  hundred  miles  more  remain  to  be 
traversed.     The  breeze  is  extremely  light,  directly 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  81 


aft,  and  our  studding-sails  on  both  sides,  below  and 
aloft,  are  out.  We  are  under  a  cloud  of  canvas, 
which  hangs  over  our  frigate  like  the  brooding  wings 
of  the  cherubim  over  the  sanctuary  of  the  ark.  But 
here  I  fear  the  parallel  must  stop.  We  have  the  sacred 
tables,  it  is  true,  and  the  commandments  inscribed  on 
them,  but  where  is  the  soul-absorbing  reverence  they 
should  inspire  ? 

All  hands  are  at  work  getting  our  ship  ready  for 
port.  She  is  being  scoured  from  stem  to  stern,  out- 
side and  in.  Every  soil  on  her  paint  is  obliged  to 
yield  to  soap  and  clean  water ;  and  every  weather- 
stain  on  her  rigging  is  removed.  She  will  look  neat 
as  a  bride  approaching  the  nuptial  altar.  What  is 
there  more  beautiful  on  earth  than  a  young  and  guile- 
less being  thus  timidly  intrusting  her  destiny  to  the 
hands  of  another, — leaving  her  home,  her  father,  mo- 
ther, brothers  and  sisters,  for  a  hearth  which  another 
love  has  lighted,  and  where  other  hopes  are  to  bud 
and  bloom  ?  He  who  can  betray  the  confidence  thus 
reposed  in  him,  and  break  the  heart  that  has  treas- 
ured its  last  trust  in  his,  is  callous  alike  to  crime  and 
shame.     But  this  is  digression. 

Thursday,  Dec.  18.  As  we  were  exercising  to- 
day at  general  quarters,  our  ears  were  startled  by 
the  cry,  "  Man  overboard  !"  The  life-buoy  was  in- 
stantly cut  away,  the  ship  hove-to,  and  a  boat  low- 


82  DECK   AND  PORT. 


ered.  The  missing  sailor  had  fallen  from  the  steps 
of  the  lee  gangway,  and  was  discovered  before  he 
had  passed  the  ship's  counter,  but  immediately  dis- 
appeared. He  was  known  to  be  a  good  swimmer  ; 
the  cause  of  his  sudden  disappearance  is  left  to  con- 
jecture. His  head  may  possibly  have  struck  the 
ship's  side  with  sufficient  force  to  have  stunned  him, 
or  he  may  have  fallen  a  prey  to  an  enormous  shark 
that  has  been  hanging  around  our  ship  all  the  morn- 
ing. A  protracted  and  most  diligent  search  was 
made,  but  not  a  trace  of  him  could  be  found.  The 
boat  was  at  last  recalled,  and  our  ship  filled  away. 

The  deceased  was  one  of  the  most  intractable  and 
dangerous  men  we  had  on  board.  He  had  knocked 
down  one  of  the  crew  in  the  dark,  and  stamped  on 
the  face  of  another  at  night,  with  the  apparent  in- 
tention of  inflicting  a  mortal  wound.  No  punish- 
ments, no  counsels  had  the  slightest  effect  upon  him. 
Captain  Du  Pont  had  tried  his  utmost  to  reform  him. 
He  seemed  proof  both  to  the  language  of  kindness 
and  rebuke.  When  it  was  known  among  the  crew 
that  he  was  the  one  that  was  lost,  not  a  sentiment  of 
sorrow  or  regret  was  evinced.  But  on  the  contrary, 
the  crew  seemed  as  if  relieved  of  a  calamity  by  a 
mysterious  Providence.  This  death  carries  one 
moral  lesson  with  obvious  effect  to  all,  and  that  is, 
to  have  the  sympathy  and  regret  of  others  in  death, 
we  must  command  their  friendship  and  respect  in 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  83 


life.  No  eloquence  can  proclaim  this  truth  with 
half  the  effect  that  this  death  has  done.  But  the 
appearance  of  one  at  the  bar  of  God  so  utterly  un- 
prepared for  his  last  account,  is  a  thought  inexpress- 
ibly awful,  and  should  strike  the  deepest  alarm  into 
a  guilty  breast. 

Friday,  Dec.  19.  We  were  to-day,  at  12  o'clock, 
in  lat.  21°  36'  s.,  long.  36°  55'  w.,  200  miles  from 
Cape  Frio,  and  2G0  from  Rio.  The  breeze  which 
for  several  days  past  has  often  died  into  a  calm,  has 
freshened  to-day,  and  is  carrying  us  along  with  stud- 
ding-sails below  and  aloft,  some  six  and  seven  knots. 
We  may  perhaps  get  in  on  Sunday  evening,  but  not 
before.  We  have  seen  nothing  of  the  strong  west- 
erly winds  which  prevail  in  the  North  Atlantic  du- 
ring the  winter  months,  and  very  little  of  the  north- 
east monsoons  found  to  the  south  of  the  equator. 
These  winds,  like  broken-down  politicians,  have 
blown  themselves  out. 

A  large  ship,  which,  if  our  glasses  speak  truly,  is 
armed,  and  bears  a  broad  pennant,  is  in  sight.  All 
hands  have  been  called  to  quarters,  the  breeching  of 
the  guns  cast  loose,  the  match-buckets  stationed, 
cutlasses  and  pistols  belted,  the  magazines  opened, 
and  every  thing  ready  for  an  engagement.  Our  com- 
modore will  never  be  taken  by  surprise.  His  ship  is 
ready  at  any  moment  for  action.     To   this  subject 


84  DECK  AND  PORT. 


he  gives  his  personal  attention.  Every  division  of 
the  guns  is  exercised  under  his  immediate  supervi- 
sion. His  presence,  and  the  interest  he  takes  in  the 
exercise,  encourages  and  animates  the  men.  He 
has  an  enthusiasm  himself  which  he  infuses  into 
others. 

"  Our  bosoms  we'll  bear  to  the  glorious  strife, 
And  our  oath  is  recorded  on  high, 
To  prevail  in  the  cause  that  is  dearer  than  fife, 
Or  crushed  in  its  ruins  to  die." 

Saturday,  Dec  20.  "  Land-ho !"  This  cry  from 
the  man  in  the  fore-top  sent  an  exulting  thrill  this 
morning  through  our  whole  ship.  We  have  been  on 
the  ocean  fifty-two  days,  and  not  an  island  or  even 
desolate  rock  have  we  seen.  Our  eyes  have  rested 
only  on  the  sky  and  melancholy  main.  But  now  a 
towering  headland  welcomes  us  to  a  new  clime  and 
the  wonders  of  a  new  shore.  Mr.  Morgan,  our  mas- 
ter, calculated  that  we  should  discover  land  this 
morning  at  half  past  eleven,  on  our  starboard  bow. 
Within  ten  minutes  of  the  time,  and  bearing  pre- 
cisely as  he  had  calculated,  Cape  Frio  was  announced 
by  the  man  in  the  fore-top.  This,  after  an  absence 
from  land  of  more  than  seven  weeks,  and  the  sailing 
of  more  than  six  thousand  miles,  speaks  well  for  our 
chronometers,  and  the  scientific  accuracy  of  our  sail- 
ing-master. 


PASSAGE  TO  RIO.  85 


We  have  been  running,  for  several  hours  past, 
twelve  knots,  with  the  wind  on  our  quarter.  We 
shot  past  a  Brazilian  brig  on  the  same  course,  as  if 
she  had  been  at  anchor.  The  line  of  coast  is  now 
but  a  few  miles  distant,  and  heaves  its  soaring  peaks 
into  the  sky.  The  sun  is  setting  in  splendor.  As 
the  night  deepens  apace,  sheets  of  moonlight  descend 
through  the  rifts  of  the  floating  darkness  above,  while 
a  long  train  of  phosphoric  light  flashes  behind  our 
keel.  The  storm  on  the  lofty  coast  becomes  still 
more  grand  and  awful.  Every  mountain-peak  be- 
comes a  blazing  fortress,  and  shakes  with  the  heavy 
thunder.  The  very  sea  trembles  under  this  artillery 
of  the  sky. 

41  And  this  is  in  the  night : — most  glorious  night ! 
Thou  wcrt  not  sent  for  slumber !  let  me  be 
A  sharer  in  your  fierce  and  far  delight, — 
A  portion  of  the  tempest  and  of  thee  1 
How  the  lit  wave  shines  a  phosphoric  sea, 
And  the  big  rain  comes  dancing  to  the  earth ! 
And  now  again  'tis  black, — and  now,  the  glee 
Of  the  loud  hills  shakes  with  its  mountain-mirth, 
As  if  they  did  rejoice  o'er  a  young  earthquake's  birth." 
8 


80 


CHAPTER  III. 
RIO    D  E    JANEIRO. 

BAT     OF    EIO. SCENERY. — ASPECT     OF    THE     CITY. ROYAL     PALACE     AND 

CHATEL. LANCERS      AND       BABY. MISERACORDIA. — AQUEDUCT. — MORN- 
ING   RIDE. — BOTANIC     GARDEN. — TEA-PLANT THE     SABBATH    IN    RIO. 

MUSKUM. NUNNERY. — JEALOUSY    OF    HUSBANDS. — A  POMrOUS    FUNERAL. 

THE   PLYMOUTH. HON.  HENRY   A.  WISE. — SLAVE-TRADE. — MARRIAGES 

AND  DOMESTIC  ARRANGEMENTS. — POLITICAL    CONDITION    OF   THE  BRAZIL- 
IANS.— TREATMENT     OF     THE     SLAVES. RELIGION. — WAJ  HER- WOMEN. — 

SAN  ANTONIO. — CLIMATE. — THE    UNKNOWN   COUPLE. DIAMONDS. — FARE- 
WELL TO  RIO. 

Land-ho — from  the  mast-head  swelling, 

On  the  breeze  its  music  throws, 
Like  the  tones  of  angels,  telling 

Where  the  soul  may  And  repose. 

Sunday,  Dec.  21.  We  found  ourselves  on  Sun- 
day morning  off  the  harbor  of  Rio.     The  first  object 

«>that  here  arrests  the  eye  is  a  rocky  isle  swelling 
abruptly  from  the  sea,  and  crowned  with  a  pharos, 
that  had  thrown  its  light  some  thirty  miles  to  us  the 
night  before.  Between  this  and  the  main  land  on 
the  left,  soars  another  mass  of  rocks,  while  a  cor- 
responding one  rises  with  a  savage  aspect  on  the 
right.  These  wave-encircled  bastions  resemble  those 
posted  by  nature  on  either  side  of  the  Dardanelles, 
through  which  the  grim  spirits  of  Europe  and  Asia 
challenge  each  other. 

*     Within   the   entrance    on  the  left  rise  the  steep 


RIO  DE   JANEIRO.  87 


sides  of  Sugar-loaf  mountain,  while  on  the  right  frowns 
the  lofty  fortress  of  Santa  Cruz.  Further  in  looms 
the  fortified  isle  of  Lagem,  commanding  the  central 
passage,  and  throwing  its  protection  over  the  roman- 
tic cove,  from  which  Bota  Foga  looks  out  upon  the 
waters.  As  the  eye  wanders  further  up  the  bay,  it 
encounters  the  island  of  Cobras,  buried  under  its 
frowning  batteries,  and  the  Ville-Gagnon  with  its  cas- 
tellated summits  ;  while  on  the  opposite  side  a  giant 
rock  has  walked  out  into  the  waters,  and  taken  up 
its  lofty,  independent  position. 

The  bay,  studded  with  picturesque  islands,  circles"^ 
up  bold  and  beautiful  some  thirty  miles  into  the  mainl 
land.     The  shore  presents  here  a  glittering  beach,  ' 
which  retreats  into  the  green  recesses   of  a  deep  j 
ravine,  and  is  there  overhung  by  some  stupendous  I 
cliff,  which  throws   its  dark  shadows   below.     The 
whole    bay    is    like    a   resplendent    lake    looking    to 
heaven  amid  Alpine  pinnacles.    High  above  all  soars 
the  steep  Corcovada,  where  plays  the  first  blush  of    » 
morn,  and  where   the  dying  day  lingers  ;  while  the 
Organ  mountains,  with  their  sharp  peaks,  pour  down 
the  harmony  of  the  winds.     All  between  these  lofty 
barriers  and  the  quiet  bay  presents  a  forest  of  fan- 
tastic cones  ;  while  swinging  depths  of  shade  wave 
over  the  glad  rills  that  leap  down  their  sides,  and  make 
music  at  their  base.     It  would  seem  as  if  some  vol- 
cano had  thrown  up  these  hills  in  a  frolic ;  or  as  if 


88  DECK   AND  PORT. 


some  Titanic  spirit,  imbued  with  a  love  of  the  won- 
derful, had  been  permitted  to  work  out  its  concep- 
tions in  these  wild  shapes. 

The  city  descends  from  mountain  coves  to  the 
•  strand  of  the  bay,  like  a  spreading  stream,  which  en- 
counters here  a  rolling  hill  and  there  a  projecting  bluff. 
Some  of  the  elevations  are  crowned  with  public  edi- 
fices, but  no  princely  palace,  gorgeous  dome,  or  glit- 
tering spire,  strongly  arrests  the  eye.  The  architecture 
of  man  here  is  so  inferior  to  that  of  nature,  it  ought 
to  make  an  apology  whenever  it  shows  itself.  It  is 
like  the  tent  of  an  Arab  throwing  up  its  dirty  cone 
beneath  the  magnificent  umbrage  of  the  palm.  It  is 
said  the  genius  of  a  people  is  in  harmony  with  the 
scenery  in  the  midst  of  which  they  have  been  reared  ; 
but  here  is  scenery  that  might  almost  throw  sun- 
bows  over  the  dreams  of  the  dead,  and  architecture 
sombre  enough  to  send  even  a  Quaker  to  sleep.  Such 
is  the  aspect  of  the  city  as  seen  from  our  frigate, 
swinging  at  her  anchors  in  front  of  the  imperial  pal- 
ace. A  nearer  view  may  possibly  bring  out  some 
concealed  beauty.  But  cities,  like  fashionable  wo- 
men, are  very  apt  to  betray  their  charms  at  the  first 
blush. 

q  Monday,  Dec  22.  I  visited  the  shore  to-day,  in 
company  with  Dr.  Mosely  and  Mr.  Spieden,  our 
purser.    We  landed  in  front  of  the  palace-square.    A 


RIO  DE  JANEIRO.  *  89 


flight  of  broken  wood  steps  took  us  to  the  top  of 
the  sea-wall,  where  we  found  ourselves  on  a  paved 
parapet,  presenting  an  open  area  of  several  hundred 
feet,  which  was  broken  only  by  the  dark  form  of  a 
fountain,  from  which  the  water  fell  in  profusion.  We 
here  encountered  a  swarm  of  half-naked  slaves,  suffi- 
ciently diversified  in  their  features  to  represent  every 
African  tribe  from  which  they  were  stolen.  Some 
had  not  lost  their  first  look  of  wonder,  while  others 
seemed  as  those  in  whom  grief  and  hope  had  long 
since  perished.  They  were  engaged  in  transporting 
merchandise,  and  seemed  to  be  the  walking  drays  of 
the  city.  They  carry  these  enormous  burdens  on 
their  heads,  and  trot  along  with  a  sonorous  grunt, 
which  works  itself  off  into  a  sort  of  song.  You  won- 
der how  they  can  have  so  much  wind  to  spare  for 
their  tune. 

We  next  encountered  a  little  carriage,  with  a  child 
in  it,  drawn  by  a  diminutive  pony.  You  might  al- 
most put  the  whole  establishment  into  a  good  sized 
market-basket.  It  was  attended  by  some  half  dozen 
slaves,  who  seemed  extremely  anxious  about  their 
charge.  Where  they  were  going  I  know  not ;  but 
the  whole  group  presented  a  striking  picture  of  the 
extremes  of  human  life.  That  child  would  have  been 
just  as  happy  in  the  strong  arms  of  its  nurse  ;  the 
globe  would  probably  have  turned  on  its  axle  just  as 
long ;  but  parental  pride  and  follv  would  not  have 

8* 


90  DECK  AND  PORT. 


been  gratified.     This  is  a  small  outbreak  of  the  aris- 
tocratic sentiment — a  sentiment  not  primitive. 

"  When  Adam  delved  and  Eve  span, 
Where  was  then  the  gentleman  V 

The  royal  palace  has  no  charms  of  an.hitecture. 
It  is  a  long,  low,  and  rather  heavy-looking  building, 
with  ballustraded  windows,  and  stuccoed  walls. 
Within  the  iron  gratings  of  the  court  the  form  of  a 
black  soldier  moved  to  and  fro,  on  guard  ;  while 
others  stretched  at  length  on  benches,  or  sitting  in 
the  corners  of  the  walls,  were  sound  asleep.  The 
whole  was  a  breathing  type  of  that  listlessness  and 
slumber  which  falls  on  the  soldier  guarding  in  a  time 
of  profound  peace  an  empty  palace.  This  palace 
might  be  converted  into  a  warehouse  without  ever 
awaking  in  the  visiter  a  suspicion  of  the  regal  use  to 
which  it  had  been  put. 

We  passed  on  to  the  royal  chapel,  which  stands 
near  by,  and  which  communicates  with  the  palace 
through  the  silent  halls  of  a  monastery.  The  exte- 
rior of  the  chapel  presents  only  its  front  to  the  eye, 
surmounted  by  a  cross,  and  relieved  by  a  mimic 
crown  which  reposes  in  a  central  niche.  The  inte- 
rior is  adorned  with  a  profusion  of  gilding,  and  con- 
tains several  private  boxes,  where  the  occupants  may 
conceal  themselves  behind  crimson  curtains.  We 
found  in  the  oratory  a  dozen  priests  or  monks,  chant- 


RIO  DE   JANEIRO.  91 


ing  their  devotions.  Two  of  them  were  laughing 
most  immoderately.  They  seemed  to  make  every 
effort  to  suppress  their  risible  impulses,  and  would 
now  and  then  succeed  so  far  as  to  present  for  a  mo- 
ment a  grave  countenance,  but  the  ludicrous  would 
immediately  gain  the  ascendency,  and  the  laughter 
burst  out.  I  once  saw  the  gravity  of  a  whole  con- 
gregation in  one  of  our  largest  country  churches  irre- 
trievably disturbed.  An  owl  had  perched  himself  on 
the  key  of  the  arch  directly  over  the  choir  ;  the  cler- 
gyman had  given  out  the  hymn  commencing  with 
the  words, 

"  Hark  from  the  tombs,  a  doleful  sound." 

As  the  singers  rose,  and  just  as  the  leader  was  going 
to  pitch  the  pathetic  tune,  the  owl,  as  if  taking  this 
duty  on  himself,  gave  a  solemn  hoot!  They  who 
were  troubled  with  a  quick  sense  of  the  ludicrous, 
couldn't  hold  in  for  a  moment,  and  the  infection 
spread  to  the  whole  congregation. 

Tuesday,  Dec  23.  I  came  near  being  captured 
to-day  by  a  troop  of  lancers.  They  were  riding  at 
full  speed  before  two  carriages,  in  one  of  which  lay 
the  infant  emperor,  in  its  nurse's  arms,  and  in  the 
other  chatted  the  servants  in  attendance  on  the  baby. 
The  lancers  had  the  important  bearing  of  Roman  co- 
horts, ushering  Caesar  into  the  imperial  city  after  the 


92  DECK  AND  PORT. 


triumphs  of  his  African  campaign.  How  far  the 
baby  was  benefitted  by  this  military  display,  or  the 
lactant  provisions  of  its  nurse  increased,  I  was  not 
informed. 

^i  Turning  away,  I  soon  encountered  a  woman  with 
her  infant  lashed  to  her  back.  The  little  fellow  reposed 
in  the  bunt  of  a  shawl,  the  corners  of  which  were 
fastened  over  the  breast  of  his  mother.  He  kept  his 
eye  on  me,  as  I  walked  behind  him,  but  with  no  signs 
of  fear ;  he  well  knew  that  the  love  which  carried 
him  would  protect  him.  His  mother  was  still  in 
youth,  moved  with  an  elastic  step,  and  evinced  her 
cheerfulness  of  heart  in  her  animated  face.  How 
strikingly  this  group  contrasts  itself  with  that  in  the 
imperial  carriage !  Pomp  was  there,  but  heart  here. 
Between  a  venal  homage  of  soldiers  and  a  mother's 
love  who   could  hesitate  ?     The   last  will  live  and 

"  throb  with  undying  strength,  when  the  other  is  a 
breathless  mockery. 

Wednesday,  Dec  24.  We  visited  to-day  the  Mis- 
eracordia,  a  noble  monument  of  Brazilian  humanity. 
Hundreds,  who  would  otherwise  have  died  unnoticed 
and  unknown  in  the  streets,  have  here  experienced, 
in  their  last  hours,  those  attentions  which  religion  and 
benevolence  bestow  upon  the  destitute  and  helpless. 
A  statue  of  the  Emperor,  in  the  finest  Carrara  mar- 
ble, is  being  executed  by  an  Italian  artist,  for  this 


RIO   DE   JANEIRO. 


03 


institution,  at  the  private  expense  of  a  wealthy  Bra- 
zilian. 

Long  may  that  statue  stand  on  its  pedestal,  a  true 
symbol  of  the  humanity  of  him  whom  it  represents. 
One  king  in  an  hospital  has  more  true  glory  than  a 
thousand  on  the  field  of  carnage.  It  is  a  false  view 
of  the  moral  characteristics  of  our  nature,  to  find 
more  honor  in  killing  a  man  than  comforting  him. 
It  is  doing  homage  to  the  thieves,  who  robbed  the 
traveller  and  left  him  for  dead,  instead  of  the  good 
Samaritan,  who  bound  up  his  wounds  and  took  him 
to  an  inn. 

We  passed  on  to  the  Aqueduct,  which  is  brought 
over  this  section  of  the  city  upon  a  succession  of 
lofty  arches,  which  sweep  high  over  the  dwellings. 
This  national  work,  constructed  under  the  viceroyal- 
ty  of  Vasconcellas,  is  in  imitation  of  the  Alcantra 
aqueduct  at  Lisbon,  and  reflects  lasting  honor  on  its 
projector.  It  is  supplied  with  water  from  artificial 
lakes  in  the  Corcovada  mountain.  The  summit  of 
this  mountain  is  covered  with  wild  forest-trees,  which 
being  cooler  than  the  surrounding  atmosphere,  con- 
dense the  vapor,  which  falls  in  showers  into  these 
lakes.  To  this  beautiful  law  of  nature  Rio  is  in- 
debted for  that  refreshing  element  without  which  she 
would  be  but  little  better  than  a  desert. 

In  giving  a  community  pure  water  to  drink,  you 
take  from  the  tippler  his  standing  apology  for  putting 


94  DECK  AND  PORT. 

rum  in  it.  You  reduce  him  to  that  pain  in  the 
stomach  from  which  he  finds  no  relief  except  in  the 
minted  toddy.  When  among  the  temperate,  this  per- 
petual colic  will  sometimes  twist  him  almost  double. 
Poor  fellow !  to  have  such  a  pain,  and  no  relief  ex- 

fcept  in  rum,  and  even  this  very  much  embarrassed 
by  the  refusal  of  others  to  drink  it.     What  business 

.  has  a  man  to  stop  drinking  himself,  if  doing  so  makes 
it  disreputable  in  others  ?  He  should  be  held  re- 
sponsible for  bringing  odium  on  that  horn  of  poor 
human  nature's  dilemma.  Let  whisky  be  as  plenty 
as  water,  and  it  would  be  a  beastly  disgrace  to  get 
drunk  on  it.  Can  three  cents  turn  vulgarity  into 
gentility,  shame  into  honor,  and  guilt  into  innocence  ? 

"  0  would  some  power  the  giftie  gie  us, 
To  see  oursels  as  others  see  us." 

Thursday,  Dec  25.  Mr.  Livingston,  Dr.  Mosely, 
Mr.  Spieden,  with  myself,  chartered  this  morning  a 
carriage-and-four  for  the  day.  Our  first  drive  was 
to  the  residence  of  the  American  minister,  some 
three  miles  out  of  the  city,  and  in  the  centre  of  a 
vast  variety  of  rural  charms.  We  found  Mr.  Wise 
listening  to  the  grievances  of  two  American  sailors, 
who  had  been  unceremoniously  thrown  ashore  by 
their  captains.  His  action  was  prompt  and  ener- 
getic, as  it  always  is  when  there  are  rights  to  be 
vindicated,  or  wrongs  to  be  redressed. 


EIO   DE  JANEIRO.  95 


We  spent  a  very  agreeable  and  entertaining  hour 
with  him,  and  called  for  our  carriage,  when  we  dis- 
covered that  our  postillion  had  unharnessed  his  steeds 
and  put  them  very  quietly  to  the  manger,  thinking, 
no  doubt,  that  as  the  fodder  would  cost  him  nothing, 
it  was  by  no  means  best  to  let  it  pass.  While  he 
was  harnessing  up,  a  servant  connected  with  the  im- 
perial palace  came  in  for  his  Christmas  token.  He 
had  called,  it  seemed,  on  the  morning  of  the  happy 
day,  and  wished  the  American  minister  a  merry 
Christmas,  and  had  now  come  for  his  fee.  The  same 
call,  with  the  same  salutation,  had  been  made  on  all 
the  foreign  ministers,  and  all  were  expected  to 
"  shell  out"  very  liberally  on  the  occasion.  Usage 
is  law,  and  the  result  is  very  expensive  merry  wishes. 
I  intend  next  year  to  wish  the  whole  world  a  merry 
Christmas. 

Seated  once  more  in  our  carriage,  we  found  our 
postillion  whirling  us  back  to  the  city,  instead  of 
taking  the  rode  to  the  Botanic  Garden,  to  which  we 
were  bound.  We  explained  our  wishes  to  him,  think- 
ing he  labored  under  a  misapprehension  ;  but  a  shrug 
of  his  shoulders  convinced  us  that  he  was  acting 
from  obstinacy.  We  then  poured  our  remonstrances 
reproaches,  and  threats  upon  him,  in  half  a  dozen 
different  languages,  creating  quite  a  little  Babel. 
Shaking  his  head  like  one  whose  purpose,  but  not 
will,  is  broken,  he  turned  into  the  right  road,  and 


90  DECK   AND  PORT. 


drove  his  horses,  at  the  top  of  their  speed,  under  a 
broiling  sun,  to  Bota  Foga,  about  half  the  distance  to 
the  Garden,  but  then  brought  up  in  front  of  a  re- 
staurant, declaring  his  horses  could  proceed  no 
further. 

We  ordered  for  them  a  bucket  or  two  of  fresh 
water,  and  after  resting  a  few  moments,  directed  the 
postillion  to  drive  on  ;  but  not  a  step  would  he  budge. 
Here  was  a  poser,  a  sort  of  crisis  in  our  affairs,  as 
political  leaders  say  when  they  wish  to  rally  the 
strength  of  their  party.  We  gave  our  postillion  one 
minute  in  which  to  decide  whether  he  would  drive 
us  to  the  Garden,  or  be  ousted  from  his  seat  to  make 
room  for  another,  who  would  drive  us  there.  He 
waited  till  the  last  second,  and  then  started  off  sulk- 
ily, as  one  in  doubt  whether  to  fight  or  yield.  At 
last  we  reached  the  little  hotel  near  the  Garden, 
where  we  alighted,  and  directed  the  keeper  to  take 
the  best  care  of  the  horses.  In  the  mean  time,  we 
pushed  into  a  neighboring  grove,  where  we  indulged 
in  the  luxuries  of  a  lunch,  which  our  provident  pur- 
ser had  brought  from  the  ship,  and  for  which  our 
'■>  ride  had  givtn  us  a  keen  appetite.  This  finished, 
and  a  few  segars  whiffed  off,  we  directed  a  dinner, 
and  proceeded  to  the  Garden. 

This  refreshing  retreat  from  the  heat  and  dust  of 
the  city,  derives  its  leading  attractions  from  its  loca- 
tion.    Beyond  rolls  the  sea,  and  over  it  towers  the 


RIO  DE   JANEIRO.  97 


lofty  Corcovada.  It  occupies  some  fifty  acres,  and 
is  intersected  by  winding  walks,  which  are  overhung 
with  forest  shade.  Several  of  the  plats  are  devoted 
to  the  cultivation  of  the  tea  plant,  which  had  been 
introduced  by  the  father  of  the  present  emperor. 
Although  the  plant  has  never  succeeded  to  perfec- 
tion, it  has  approached  it  sufficiently  to  have  satisfied 
the  good  ladies  of  Boston,  whose  husbands  had 
thrown  their  Chinese  dreams  into  the  sea.  What  a 
scene  such  an  interference  with  the  phlegathontic 
weed  would  create  around  our  hearths !  Think  you 
our  ladies  would  so  quietly  have  taken  to  spearmint 
and  sage  ?     But  let  that  pass. 

In  other  plats  we  met  with  the  cinnamon,  the  red 
pepper,  and  the  clove,  all  in  fruit.  But  aromatics 
are  the  last  plants  that  will  consent  to  carry  their 
fragrance  with  them  into  foreign  climes.  The  walks 
are  overhung  with  the  mango,  the  orange,  the  mar- 
mosa,  andclark  olive,  while  ^he  croton  and  plantain 
cast  in  every  coppice  the  deep  umbrage  of  their  for- 
est gloom. 

On  one  side  of  the  garden  a  silver-footed  stream- 
let dashes  down  the  steeps  of  the  Corcovada,  like  a 
girl  escaping  from  a  crabbed  aunt  for  Gretna  Green. 
Near  this  rises  an  elliptical  mound,  crowned  with  a 
beautiful  bower  of  the  arbor  vita?.  This  vivacious 
shrub  allows  itself  to  be  twisted  into  a  thousand  fan- 
tastic shapes,  without  a  thought  of  dying.     In   this 

0 


98  DECK  AND  PORT. 


bower,  which  is  so  thickly  interlaced  as  to  exclude 
the  sun,  I  sought  a  wicker  couch,  and,  lulled  by  the 
lapse  of  the  waters,  and  the  melody  of  a  mourning 
bird,  fell  asleep,  and  dreamed  of 

"  Groves,  whose  rich  trees  wept  odorous  gums  and  balm, 
Flowers  of  all  hue,  and  without  thorn  the  rose." 

We  returned  to  the  hotel,  discussed  a  very  indif- 
ferent dinner,  ordered  up  our  carriage,  and  started 
on  our  return  to  the  city.  The  evening  came  in 
with  a  soft  beautiful  twilight.  We  passed  many 
family  groups  seated  in  the  front  yards  of  their 
houses  enjoying  the  hour.  Here  and  there  was  one 
who  had  deeper  thoughts  than  her  younger  sisters, 
and  whose  large  black  eyes  were  often  turned  to  the 
climbing  moon. 

We  called  on  our  return  upon  Mr.  Furgeson,  our 
naval  store-keeper  at  Rio,  a  situation  which  he  fills 
with  a  fidelity  and  bij§iness  tact,  which* have  the 
merited  confidence  of  the  department. 

The  evening  had  well  advanced  when  we  reached 
the  city.  We  discharged  our  postillion  in  the  same 
sulky  humor  in  which  he  had  been  all  day.  He  had 
me  look  and  air  of  an  old  pirate,  thrown  by  some 
freak  of  fortune  into  livery,  and  upon  the  box  of  a 
coach  instead  of  the  scaffold.  All  his  ill  temper 
arose  from  the  fact  that  we  had  not  promised  him  a 
gratuity.      We  had  engaged  to  give  his  employer 


RIO  DE   JANEIRO.  99 


twelve  dollars  for  the  carriage,  and  we  should  not 
have  forgotten  him  had  he  been  civil  and  obliging. 
His  conduct,  like  that  of  most  people  when  they  get 
out  of  temper,  worked  him  only  evil. 

Ill  fortune  rides  ill  will  where'er  it  leads. 

Friday,  Dec  20.  The  United  States  frigate  Co- 
lumbia, commanded  by  Capt.  Richie,  and  bearing  the 
broad  pennant  of  Commodore  Rousseau,  arrived  this 
morning  from  Norfolk.  She  has  had,  by  a  singular 
coincidence,  the  same  passage  as  the  Congress — 
fifty-two  days.  I  was  right  glad  to  find  on  board  of 
her,  as  chaplain,  my  esteemed  friend,  the  Rev.  T.  R. 
Lambert.  A  portion  of  her  crew  are  down  with  the 
smallpox,  which  broke  out  in  the  person  of  one  of  her 
marines  several  days  after  she  had  sailed.  All  direct 
communication  with  her  has  been  interdicted  ;  but 
we  met  her  officers,  who  are  very  agreeable  asso- 
ciates, on  shore.  We  expected  letters  by  the  Co- 
lumbia, but  her  departure  followed  so  fast  on  our 
own  that  very  few  were  sent. 

The  Columbia  is  a  fine  frigate,  combining  speed, 
strength,  and  grace  of  architecture.     Near  her  swings 

Do  o 

the  frigate  Raritan,  under  the  command  of  Captain 
Gregory.  She  has  less  beauty  than  her  sister,  is  low 
between  her  decks,  and  her  spikes,  with  their  black 
heads,  disfigure  her  planks  ;  but  she  rides  the  water 
gracefully,  and  is  a  swift  sailor.     For  this,  however, 


100  DECK  AND  PORT. 


she  may  be  indebted,  in  some  degree,  to  the  skill  of 
her  commander,  whose  sagacity  in  detecting  and 
bringing  out  the  latent  qualities  of  a  ship  is  seldom 
baffled.  Her  wardroom,  though  dark  from  without, 
has  light  from  within  ;  not  that  which  strays  from  a 
few  dim  tapers,  but  from  the  spirit  that  is  in  man, 
and  which  will  still  stream  on  when  life's  taper  itself 
is  out. 

Saturday,  Dec  27.  Her  Britannic  Majesty's  frig- 
ate President,  under  the  command  of  Rear- Admiral 
Dacres,  entered  the  harbor  to-day,  and  let  go  her  an- 
chors within  a  few  cables  length  of  us.  She  is  the 
new-fledged  phenix  of  the  old  one,  captured  from  us 
in  the  last  war.  The  parent  has  perished,  but  her 
memory  still  survives  in  the  glorious  triumphs  of  De 
catur,  as  well  as  in  this  fledgling  which  bears  hei 
name.  The  old  bird  was  captuz-ed  by  an  overwhelm- 
ing superiority  of  force  ;  not  by  greater  tact  or  cour- 
age.    No  laurels  were  won  or  lost. 

The  offspring  which  has  arisen  from  her  relics,  is 
now  bearing  the  pennant  of  one  who  was  himself, 
while  commanding  the  Guerrier,  captured  by  the 
Constitution,  under  Commodore  Hull.  But  he  fought 
his  ship  well ;  it  was  no  want  of  courage  that  allowed 
victory  to  perch  on  our  flag.  He  had  no  resource 
but  to  surrender,  or  sink  in  a  dismantled  hulk.  The 
English  journals  affected  to  prefer  the  last  catastro 


RIO   DE  JANEIRO.  101 


phe  ;  but  this  does  very  well  for  those  who  are  not 
themselves  in  the  hulk.  The  bubbles  which  brim  the 
watery  grave  of  the  sailor  may  break  and  disappear 
as  other  bubbles ;  but  when  they  ascend  from  our 
own  strangling  gasps,  they  carry  with  them  agonies 
which  should  shake  a  world.  The  capture  of  the 
Guerrier,  and  the  triumphs  which  followed,  broke  the 
charm  of  British  invincibility.  That  dream  of  su- 
premacy fled  the  ocean,  never  to  return — 

"  That  spell  upon  the  minds  of  men, 
Broke,  never  to  unite  again." 

Sunday,  Dec.  28.  Were  a  stranger  to  the  reli- 
gious habits  of  a  Catholic  community  thrown  into  Rio 
on  the  Sabbath,  he  would  think  he  had  mistaken  his 
sabbatical  calendar.  He  would  think  he  had  arrived 
on  some  holiday,  in  which  the  serious  concerns  of 
life  yield  to  gayety.  He  would  see  this  spirit  of 
social  mirth  pervading  all  classes.  Even  the  bells 
would  have  a  glee  in  their  tones.  He  would  find  the 
priests  in  the  promenade  instead  of  the  pulpit,  with 
their  large-rimmed  hats  rolled  up  over  the  ear,  and 
the  solemnity  of  their  sable  gowns  in  singular  con- 
trast with  the  levity  that  runs  through  their  manner. 

Such  is  the  Sabbath  where  the  principles  of  Prot- 
estantism have  not  obtained,  and  where  its  spirit  is 
not  felt.  It  is  a  day  of  amusement  and  recreation. 
Such  it  has  ever  been  in  everv  country  where  the 

9* 


102  DECK  AND  PORT. 


genius  of  papacy  has  been  paramount.  Such  it  is 
now  in  Italy,  France,  Portugal,  and  Spain.  Let  the 
see  of  Rome  roll  its  waves  over  the  Protestant  in- 
stitutions of  the  United  States,  and  it  would  sweep 
the  sanctity  of  the  Sabbath  from  the  land.  There 
would  not  be  enough  of  its  vitality  left  to  embalm 
the  memory  of  our  pilgrim  fathers.  To  rebuke  those 
who  abuse  religion  is  not  to  disparage  its  spirit. 

''  All  hail,  Religion  !  maid  divine, 
Pardon  a  muse  so  mean  as  mine, 
"Who,  in  his  rough,  imperfect  line, 

Thus  dares  to  name  thee ; 
To  stigmatize  false  friends  of  thine, 

Can  ne'er  defame  thee." 

Monday,  Dec  29.  Visited  the  Museum  of  Natural 
History.  Here  the  beautiful  birds  of  Brazil  speak  in 
dumb  show,  and  her  minerals  seem  to  mourn  their 
mines.  But  the  specimeas  are  not  extensive.  The 
Public  Library,  in  another  building,  contains  some 
twenty  thousand  volumes,  which  slumber  in  dust  on 
their  shelves.  The  Academy  of  Fine  Arts  has  a 
few  specimens  in  statuary  and  painting ;  but  none 
that  would  kindle  an  eye  that  has  once  gazed  on  the 
triumphs  of  a  Phidias  or  a  Raphael.  The  Opera 
House  has  elegant  and  ample  accommodations  for 
spectators,  but  no  performers. 

All  these   institutions  were   established   by  Don 


RIO  DE   JANEIRO.  103 


Pedro  I.,  but  have  been  on  the  decline  since  his  ab- 
dication. It  was  his  ambition  to  make  Rio  a  second 
Lisbon ;  but  his  plans  outran  his  means.  Mafra 
Castle  alone,  with  its  time-honored  towers  and  their 
hundred  and  twenty  bells,  rolling  out  their  anthems 
on  the  airs  of  old  Portugal,  leave  all  that  Rio  can 
present,  like  an  afterpiece  from  which  the  auditory 
has  escaped. 

The  great  mass  of  the  laboring  classes  in  Rio  sub- 
sist on  the  farina  of  the  jatrapha-plant,  made  into  a 
coarse  bread,  called  pan  de.  ticrre  caliente.  It  is  man- 
ufactured from  the  same  plant  of  which  the  tapioca  is 
obtained.  This,  with  the  black  bean,  which  grows 
in  great  abundance,  is  with  them  the  staple  of  life. 
The  more  luxurious  bread-stuffs  are  imported.  Even 
meat,  amidst  all  this  teeming  vegetation,  is  scarce  and 
dear.  Every  thing  here  runs  to  coffee,  of  which  a 
hundred  and  thirty  millions  of  pounds  are  exported 
annually,  which  goes  to  foreign  markets,  and  brings 
back,  in  the  great  circle  of  commerce,  the  products 
of  every  other  clime. 

Tuesday,  Dec  30.  Visited  the  queen's  garden, 
which  covers  some  six  acres,  and  lies  within  the  en- 
virons of  the  city,  between  the  Miseracordia  and 
Gloria  Hill,  and  opens  by  a  broad  terrace  on  the  bay. 
The  gravelled  walks,  which  sweep  around  in  every 
direction,  are  over-arched  by  swinging   masses   of 


104  DECK  AND  PORT. 


shade.  The  cassia  waves  here  by  the  side  of  the 
silver-leaved  myrtle,  and  the  imperial  laurel — the 
shamrock  of  Brazil — turns  its  green  yellow-striped 
leaves  to  the  sun ;  while  two  small  pyramids  of 
granite  stand  as  grim  sentinels  over  the  proprieties 
of  the  place.  A  tough  job,  it  is  said,  they  have  of 
it,  when  the  young  of  the  city  flock  here  in  the  even- 
ng,  though  their  watch  duties  are  aided  by  conjugal 
jealousy  and  parental  vigilance. 

Not  far  removed  from  the  garden,  and  in  harmony 
with  some  of  its  associations,  stands  a  nunnery, 
which,  considering  the  uses  to  which  it  is  put,  might 
with  propriety  be  called  the  bridal  prison.  Hus- 
bands, leaving  the  country  or  the  city  for  any  length 
of  time,  are  in  the  habit  of  shutting  up  their  wives 
and  children  in  this  nunnery.  A  beautiful  exhibi- 
tion of  conjugal  love  and  confidence  !  But  where 
are  the  confessors  all  this  time  with  their  compulsory 
vows  of  celibacy,  and  that  latitude  of  conscience 
which  compulsion  always  leaves  ?  Better  to  trust  a 
wife  to  her  own  affections  than  the  guidance  of  men 
whom  superstition  has  invested  with  the  power  to 
pardon  the  errors  of  human  frailty,  who  can  commit 
sin  one  hour,  and  cancel  it  with  all  parties  the  next. 
Ecclesiastical  rules  and  regulations,  which  deprive 
any  portion  of  the  community  of  the  privileges  of  the 
marriage  state,  pave  the  way  to  crime.  They  are  a 
violation  of  the  laws  of  nature  and  nature's  God. 


RIO  DE  JANEIRO.  105 


On  our  return  we  stopped  at  the  imperial  chapel, 
where  preparations  were  making  for  a  sumptuous 
funeral.  The  chapel  was  brilliantly  lighted ;  the 
priests  were  in  their  gorgeous  robes  ;  and  the  dark 
carriage  of  the  dead  soon  arrived,  with  four  black 
horses,  and  postillions  in  sable  plumes.  The  body 
was  placed  near  the  great  altar,  candles  were  placed 
in  the  hands  of  those  who  crowded  the  nave,  and 
amid  a  shower  of  light  the  chant  for  the  repose  of 
the  soul  began. 

One  of  the  candles  set  fire  to  the  long  locks  of  a 
fashionable  youth  standing  near  the  bier.  The  priest 
who  was  sprinkling  the  holy  water,  dashed  a  shower 
of  it  upon  his  head,  while  a  suppressed  laughter 
shook  the  whole  crowd.  The  prayers  finished, — the 
bier  was  removed  to  the  enclosure  in  the  rear  of  the 
church,  the  body  taken  from  the  cofTm,  and  thrown 
up  into  a  niche  in  the  wall,  resembling  a  baker's  oven. 
It  was  tossed  in  head  first,  and  the  aperture  being 
small  and  high,  it  required  no  little  tact  in  the  swing- 
ing and  cant  to  secure  it  a  proper  lodgment.  Lime 
and  holy  water  were  then  cast  upon  it,  and  the  ori- 
fice closed.  Sooner  than  have  such  a  burial  as  this, 
with  scorching  hair,  laughter,  an  oven,  and  dissolv- 
ing lime,  let  me  glide  from  earth  unnoticed  and  un- 
known, as  a  flower  falls  in  the  pathless  wilderness, 
and  let  my  grave  be  a  sunless  cave  of  ocean,  only 
let  me  have  there  as  mourner : — 


106  DECK  AND  PORT. 


The  mermaid,  whose  elegiac  shell 

Shall  pour  its  tender  stave, 
In  many  a  wild  and  fond  farewell; 

Around  my  sea-green  grave. 

Wednesday,  Dec.  31.  Visited  to-day  the  Plymouth, 
under  the  command  of  Capt.  Henry.  She  is  one  of 
the  most  finished  specimens  of  naval  architecture 
afloat ;  and  the  neatness  of  her  internal  appearance 
corresponds  with  her  outward  grace  and  beauty. 
Her  light  spar-deck,  running  flush  fore  and  aft,  un- 
encumbered by  a  gun  ;  her  bulwarks  sweeping  from 
stem  to  stern  without  a  breaking  beam,  and  clouded 
into  the  hue  of  the  pearl ;  her  gun-carriages  exhibiting 
through  their  hard  varnish  the  native  grain  of  the 
oak,  and  the  guns  presenting  the  hard  polish  of  their 
cylinders  ;  her  stanchions  of  burnished  iron,  her  sides 
and  bends  without  a  weather-stain,  and  her  ham- 
mocks rising  above  their  netting  white  as  the  snow- 
rift, — all  have  the  finest  effect.  She  reflects,  in  every 
aspect  in  which  she  may  be  viewed,  the  highest 
credit  on  the  taste  and  professional  skill  of  Captain 
Henry  and  his  officers. 

She  came  here  from  the  Mediterranean,  after  hav- 
ing visited  most  of  the  ports  in  that  sea,  and  paid  her 
respects  to  the  grand  sultan  at  Constantinople.  She 
was  there,  as  she  is  here,  the  admiration  of  all  who 
visited  her.  Such  a  ship  as  this,  with  the  soft  clime 
of  Italy,  the  storied  shores  of  Greece,  and  the  classic 


RIO  DE  JANEIRO.  107 


associations  of  the  JEgean  isles,  would  be  the  perfec- 
tion of  cruising  with  the  scholar,  and  would  involve 
nothing  incompatible  with  the  sterner  purposes  of  a 
man-of-war. 

Thursday,  Jan.  1,  1846.  This  is  new-year's  day, 
and  the  anniversary  of  the  discovery  of  the  bay  of  Rio 
by  Salis.  The  Brazilian  flag  is  living  from  the  public 
buildings  and  the  masts  of  all  the  vessels  in  the  har- 
bor. Salutes  from  fortifications  and  national  ships  are 
pouring  their  reverberating  thunder  among  the  hills. 

Commodore  Stockton  has  graced  the  occasion  in 
the  shape  of  a  splendid  dinner  to  the  Hon.  Henry  A. 
Wise.  Many  ladies  and  gentlemen  of  Rio,  with  the 
officers  of  the  English  and  American  squadrons,  were 
present.  The  most  perfect  good  feeling  prevailed  ; 
many  patriotic  sentiments  went  round ;  and  many 
recollections  of  home  melted  their  way  into  our 
hearts. 

The  honor  of  the  occasion  was  for  Mr.  Wise  ;  nor 
was  it  unworthily  bestowed.  He  has  been  a  firm, 
devoted  friend  to  the  navy;  he  has  stood  by  her  in 
her  darkest  hours,  and  found,  in  the  triumphs  of  the 
past,  a  bright  prophecy  of  the  future.  He  has  been, 
at  the  court  of  Brazil,  the  fearless  champion  of  the 
rights  and  claims  of  humanity.  He  has  shrunk  from 
no  efforts  and  no  responsibility  in  crushing  the  slave- 
trade.      Where  selfish  ease  suggested  silence,  In-  has 


108  DECK  AND  PORT. 


spoken  ;  where  timidity  urged  a  temporizing  indiffer- 
ence, he  has  resolutely  acted.  His  moral  firmness 
has  made  him  the  terror  of  every  slaver,  and  of  all 
connected  with  this  accursed  traffic.  If  he  resigns 
his  present  post,  may  his  successor,  in  this  respect  at 
least,  tread  in  his  footsteps. 

Friday,  Jan.  2.  A  Brazilian  lady  was  pointed 
out  to  me  to-day  who  is  but  twelve  years  of  age, 
and  who  has  two  children,  who  were  frolicking 
around  her  steps.  She  was  married  at  ten  to  a 
wealthy  merchant  of  sixty-five, — a  spring  violet 
caught  in  a  curling  snow-drift !  But  ladies  here 
marry  extremely  young.  They  have  hardly  done 
with  their  fictitious  babies,  when  they  have  the  smiles 
and  tears  of  real  ones.  Their  parents  make  the 
matches,  as  well  they  may  at  that  age ;  and  they 
ought  in  conscience  to  retain  still  the  spanking  priv- 
ilege, and  exercise  it  down  to  the  third  generation. 

The  evidences  of  consideration  here  turn  upon  a 
two  or  four  wheeled  vehicle,  which  is  kept  in  the 
basement  story  of  the  house,  and  throws  the  sheen 
of  its  varnish  on  the  eye  of  the  passer.  Whether 
there  is  a  horse  to  draw  it  or  not,  is  a  matter  of  com- 
paratively little  importance.  It  answers  its  essential 
purpose  without.  %  It  is  a  quiet  indication  of  rank, 
and  all  the  better  that  its  slumber  is  seldom  broken. 

In  the  parlors  and  apartments  above,  vou  find  the 


RIO  DE  JANEIRO.  100 

transmitted  furniture  of  past  generations.  Antiquity 
has  a  charm  against  which  novelty  cannot  prevail. 
The  same  chair  in  which  the  departed  ancestor 
trembled  between  this  life  and  the  next,  still  stands 
by  the  verandah,  where  budding  beauty  breathes  and 
throbs.  The  same  old  harp,  which  was  swept  by  a 
hand  that  has  long  since  forgotten  its  cunning,  now 
wakes  to  melody  under  the  touch  of  one  in  whom 
life's  earliest  pulses  play.  Its  music  ever  floats  be- 
tween the  cradle  and  the  grave. 

Saturday,  Jan.  3.  This  is  a  holiday  at  Rio,  and 
the  calkers  from  shore,  who  are  at  work  on  our  frig- 
ate, knocked  off  last  evening,  refusing  to  come  this 
morning  unless  their  per  diem  should  be  raised  fifty 
per  cent.  As  we  are  anxious  to  get  to  sea,  their  de- 
mand has  been  complied  with.  Conscience,  it  would 
seem,  has  no  concern  in  the  matter,  though  it  is  a 
saint's  day,  and  one  of  the  most  sacred  in  their  calen- 
dar. How  very  convenient  when  that  little  in  wan  1 
troubler  can  be  tied  up  in  a  man's  purse,  and  stowed 
away  in  his  breeches  pocket ! 

Rio  is  a  city  without  chimneys,  and  strikes  one  as 
a  regiment  of  soldiers  without  caps.  A  vein  of  smoke 
is  never  seen  circling  up  over  its  red-tiled  roots.  The 
mildness  of  the  climate  dispenses  with  all  parlor  fires, 
except  the  gleam  of  the  brasero.  The  houses,  which 
rarely  exceed  two  stories,  are  built  of  fragmented 
10 


110  DECK   AND  PORT. 


stones  and  a  species  of  mortar,  which  the  air  indu- 
rates into  the  solidity  of  a  cement.  The  parlors  are 
in  the  second  story,  and  open  out  on  a  verandah. 
The  servants  divide  the  ground-floor  with  the  old 
spaniel,  who  looks  out  from  the  dusky  background 
like  the  lion  of  Agamemnon,  still  keeping  stern  watch 
over  his  master's  gloomy  shrine. 

The  domestic  habits  of  the  Brazilians,  and  their 
household  economy,  are  closely  shrouded ;  yet  now 
and  then,  like  guilty  love,  they  betray  themselves 
through  their  very  disguises.  They  have  but  little 
confidence  in  their  own  virtue,  and  still  less  in  yours  ; 
and,  as  might  be  expected,  betray  and  are  betrayed. 
Redress  for  such  grievances  is  seldom  sought  through 
the  forms  of  law.  The  stiletto  makes  less  noise,  and 
is  more  certain  in  its  results.  Don  Pedro  I.  put  his 
very  throne  in  jeopardy  by  his  profligacies.  He 
brought  ruin  and  indignant  shame  into  some  of  the 
first  families  in  Brazil.  His  victims  were  in  every 
circle.  The  conditions  of  office  involved  their  mar- 
riage, without  interfering  with  this  illicit  relation. 
He  was  abusive  to  his  wife,  as  false  husbands  gener- 
ally are,  and  went  to  his  grave  with  but  little  which 
friendship  itself  would  not  conceal. 

Sunday,  Jan.  4.  The  slave-trade  is  still  carried 
on  in  the  ports  of  Brazil.  The  government,  though 
committed  by  treaty  against  it,  connives  at  the  traffic 


RIO   DE  JANEIRO.  Ill 


From  ten  to  fifteen  thousand  slaves  are  imported  an- 
nually. Of  these  the  Mina,  from  the  north  interior 
of  Africa,  brings  with  him  the  greatest  force  of  char- 
acter. He  never  trifles  with  the  misfortunes  of  his 
lot,  and  submits  indignantly  to  a  state  of  servitude. 
He  speaks  his  deep-sounding  Arabic,  and  looks  with 
contempt  upon  the  twattle  of  the  other  tribes.  He 
has  the  bearing  of  one  conscious  of  resources  in  him- 
self. His  energy  and  industry  often  procure  him  his 
liberty.  His  presence  in  Brazil  puts  the  stability  <>f 
her  institutions  in  peril.  It  is  apprehended  he  may 
one  day  strike  for  unconditional  freedom.  He  is  not 
a  being  who  will  crave  quarter,  or  be  very  likely 
to  grant  it.  It  will  be  with  him  a  life  and  death 
struggle. 


"CO" 


Monday,  Jan.  5.  The  United  States  frigate  Raritan 
has  arrived  from  La  Plata,  and  reports  that  the  Eng- 
lish and  French  are  still  engaged  fighting  their  way 
up  the  Parana  for  the  purpose  of  opening  a  perma- 
nent communication  with  the  interior  provinces. 
The  general  opinion  here  is,  that  Governor  Rosas  will 
be  obliged  to  abandon  the  blockade  of  Monte  Video, 
and  consent  to  the  commercial  communications  de- 
manded by  England  and  France.  Popular  opinion 
here  runs  strongly  in  favor  of  free  trade  the  world 
over. 

The  Brazilians  do  not  like  the  interference  of  Eu- 


112  DECK  AND  PORT. 


ropean  powers  in  the  affairs  of  this  continent,  but 
they  dislike  anarchy  and  despotism  still  more. 
They  are  the  advocates  of  free  constitutional  govern- 
ment, and  have  embodied  its  most  essential  principles 
in  their  political  institutions.  The  Emperor  of  Bra- 
zil has  but  little  more  power  than  the  President  of 
the  United  States.  Law  take  its  shape  from  the  na- 
tional legislature,  and  from  that  branch  of  it  which 
expresses  the  popular  will.  This  branch  can  at  any 
time  force  a  joint  vote  with  the  senate,  and  carry  a 
measure  by  its  numerical  strength.  This  can  indeed 
be"  vetoed  by  the  emperor,  but  it  wyould  be  an  exer- 
cise of  prerogative  seldom  resorted  to,  and  never,  I 
believe,  where  the  popular  will  has  been  clearly  ex- 
pressed. 

The  condition  of  the  slave  population  here  is  much 
less  abject  and  wretched  than  I  expected  to  find  it. 
Slaves  are  generally  treated  with  kindness  and  hu- 
manity by  their  masters.  Their  color  operates  less 
to  their  prejudice  than  with  us.  Their  freedom,  in 
many  cases,  lies  within  their  reach,  and  may  be  ob- 
tained, as  it  often  is,  by  industry  and  frugality.  The 
owner  who  should  demand  an  exorbitant  price  for  a 
slave,  who  wishes  to  earn  his  freedom,  would  be  se- 
verely censured.  When  free,  he  goes  to  the  ballot- 
box,  and  is  eligible  to  a  seat  in  the  national  legisla- 
ture. 

Nor  would  anybody  here  go  into  hysterics  should  he 


RIO  DE  JANEIRO.  113 


marry  a  woman  whose  skin  should  be  a  shade  whiter 
than  his  own.  It  is  for  us  Americans  to  preach  up 
humanity,  freedom,  and  equality,  and  then  turn  up 
our  blessed  noses  if  an  African  takes  a  seat  at  the 
same  table  on  board  a  steamboat.  Even  in  our 
churches  he  is  obliged  to  look  out  some  obscure  nook, 
and  dodge  along  towards  heaven  as  if  he  had  no  bu- 
siness on  the  "narrow  way."  The  misery  is,  that 
they  who  preach  equality  the  loudest,  are  generally 
the  last  to  practice  it.  They  are  generally  for  level- 
ling downwards  ;  but  give  me  the  man  who  tries  to 
level  upwards.  Give  me  the  man  whose  smiles  are 
like  the  rays  of  the  sun — if  they  strike  the  loftiest 
objects  first,  it  is  only  that  they  may  glance  to  the 
lowest. 

Tuesday,  Jan.  6.  The  religion  of  the  Brazilians, 
as  seen  in  their  legislative  policy,  is  less  trammelled 
by  superstition  than  in  most  countries  where  Papacy 
prevails.  The  Pope,  a  few  years  since,  sent  a  legate 
to  this  court.  It  is  expected,  in  such  cases,  that  the 
salary  of  the  legate  will  be  paid  by  the  country  to 
which  he  is  accredited.  But  the  Brazilian  legisla- 
ture, not  having  the  fear  of  the  Vatican  before  their 
eyes,  voted  that  his  holiness  might  pay  his  own  rep- 
resentative. He  was  of  course  recalled.  Such  lias 
been  the  abuse  hereof  ecclesiastical  supremacy,  such 
its  interference  in  political  affairs,  and  such  its  oner- 
10* 


114  DECK   AND  PORT. 


ous  pecuniary  exactions,  that  there  has  been  a  sweep- 
ing reaction,  and  the  civil  power  of  the  Pope  is 
openly  set  at  defiance. 

As  for  the  priests  here,  should  they  attempt  to  set 
up  any  secular  authority,  they  would  only  expose 
themselves  to  derision.  There  is  vastly  more  rever- 
ence for  the  decisions  of  the  Papal  see  among  the 
Roman  Catholics  of  our  country,  than  there  is  among 
the  Brazilians.  Were  a  bishop  here  to  interfere  at 
an  election,  it  would  cost  him  his  episcopate.  It  is 
for  us  Americans  to  submit  to  such  an  outrage  on 
the  sanctity  of  the  ballot-box. 

Wednesday,  Jan.  7.  I  encountered  to-day,  on  a 
large  public  square  within  the  environs  of  the  city,  a 
washing-scene,  which  was  rather  primitive.  The 
square  is  carpeted  with  green  grass  medallioned  with 
flowers,  and  shaded  here  and  there  by  clusters  of 
forest  trees.  In  the  midst  stands  a  fountain,  from 
which  the  water  falls  in  light  showers  into  an  im- 
mense basin.  In  this  basin  some  two  hundred  fe- 
males, of  every  age,  clime,  and  color,  were  dashing 
their  clothes,  and  rubbing  them  on  the  great  sweep 
of  the  curb-stone.  Their  apparel,  what  little  they 
had  on,  was  fastened  above  the  knee ;  the  water  in 
the  basin  was  a  pool  of  foaming  suds,  and  they  were 
jumping  about  in  it  like  the  Nereids  of  the  Nile. 
The  younger  ones  were  full  of  mischief,  and  dis 


RIO  DE  JANEIRO.  115 


played  their  agility  in  tripping  each  other  up.  The 
fall  of  one  into  the  suds  was  followed  by  a  general 
shout.  How  they  escaped  having  their  clothes  inex- 
tricably mixed  up  in  this  general  melee  of  the  great 
wash-tub,  was  a  mystery  to  me. 

On  the  green  were  hundreds  of  others  occupied 
with  their  clothes.  Some  were  snapping  them  in 
the  wind  ;  some  spreading  them  on  the  grass  to  dry  ; 
some  folding  them  "up  and  depositing  them  in  baskets, 
to  be  transported  on  their  heads  home  ;  and  others 
were  under  the  shade  of  the  trees  asleep.  Some 
trick,  however,  such  as  a  dash  of  water  from  the 
bowl,  was  sure  to  await  the  dreamer ;  and  then  an- 
other laugh  would  be  thrown  on  the  wind.  As  twi- 
light came  on,  all  this  panorama  of  life,  with  its 
breathing  forms,  its  triumphs  in  laundry,  and  its  mer- 
riments,  disappeared.  Nothing  but  the  whisper  of 
the  leaf,  or  the  bubble  which  still  floated  on  the  foun- 
tain, remained  to  tell  where  such  a  bustle  had  been. 

What  a  magnificent  wafhtub  one  of  our  great 
western  lakes  would  make !  It  would  hold  all  the 
clothes,  clean  and  unclean,  which  cover  the  human 
race.  There  is  only  one  difficulty  in  the  way  of  this 
arrangement:  it  would  be  a  little  awkward  to  have 
the  lake  freeze  over  in  the  dead  of  winter.  This, 
howerer,  might  be  prevented  by  introducing  under 
it  the  volcano  of  Vesuvius,  which  is  of  no  use  where 
it  now  stands.     This  done,  and  Whitney  Is  railroad 


116  DECK  AND  TORT. 


to  the  Pacific  finished,  and  we  shall  truly  be  a  great 
nation.  But  our  women  will  never  consent  to  have 
the  smallclothes  perilled  in  Lake  Superior;  so  theie 
is  an  end  to  the  whole  business. 

Thursday,  Jan.  8.  Rambled  on  shore  to-day  with 
Lieut.  Gray,  and  returned  several  calls.  Every 
family  in  Rio,  where  superstition  asserts  her  sway, 
has  two  things,  an  image  of  St.  Antonio  and  a  whip. 
If  the  saint,  after  being  duly  invoked,  still  refuses  to 
grant  the  boon  craved,  he  is  taken  down  from  his 
niche  and  soundly  whipped.  This  chastisement  is 
repeated  till  the  prayer  is  answered,  or  some  priest 
interferes,  and  consoles  the  disappointed  with  the 
persuasion  that  the  blessing  sought  has  been,  or  will 
be,  conferred  in  some  other  form.  This  compulsory 
process  with  a  saint,  accounts  for  the  maimed  state 
in  which  you  always  find  poor  Antonio  here.  There 
is  something  unique  and  interesting  in  this  mode  of 
obtaining  benefactions.  If  a  saint  wont  shell  out, 
when  he  has  the  power,  why  should  he  not  be  whip- 
ped as  well  as  a  sinner  ? 

We  encountered  to-day  a  Brazilian  lady  of  rank  in 
her  palankeen.  She  was  carried  by  two  sturdy 
slaves,  and  followed  by  a  retinue  of  servants.  She 
was  evidently  bound  on  a  visit  to  some  female  ac- 
quaintance, with  whom  she  expected  to  spend  the 
day.     He.r   attendants    must   also   be  provided  for. 


RIO  DE  JANEIRO.  117 


Such  an  arrival  in  a  quiet  family  would  turn  the 
whole  house  topsy-turvy.  The  further  we  get  from 
the  heart,  the  more  bustle  we  make.  The  forma  of 
fashionable  etiquette,  like  feathers  in  a  lady's  bonnet, 
are  full  of  flare  and  flutter. 

Friday,  Jan.  9.  On  shore  to-day  with  Lieutenant 
Tilghman,  rambling  through  the  environs  of  the  city, 
and  on  the  green  hills  which  overlook  the  bay.  Capt. 
Wilkes,  in  his  history  of  the  exploring  expedition, 
calls  this  place  St.  Salvador.  The  Brazilians  laugh 
at  the  misnomer,  and  enjoy  it  the  more  as  the  cap- 
tain's comments  are  deemed  by  them  censorious  and 
unjust.  It  was  an  unfortunate  slip  of  the  pen  to 
write  St.  Salvador  for  St.  Sebastian,  and  still  more 
unfortunate  to  stereotype  it  into  immortality. 

The  primitive  name  of  this  splendid  bay  is  Nithe- 
rohi,  which  means  concealed  water,  and  is  beautifully 
significant  of  its  phenomena,  as  they  unroll  their 
wonders  on  the  eye.  And  what  a  liquid  name  is  that 
Nitherohi !  it  fairly  melts  on  the  tongue.  It  is  In- 
dian in  its  origin,  and  should  never  have  been  dropped 
for  any  saint  in  the  calendar.  But  in  Catholic  coun- 
tries, Eden  itself  would  soon  cease  to  go  by  its  proper 
name. 

I  do  not  wonder  the  Brazilians  are  deficient  in  en- 
terprise and  energy.  No  physical  force  can  with- 
stand the  enervating  influences  of  this  climate,  and 


118  DECK   AND  TORT. 


that  listlessness  which  it  induces.  Not  one  exhila- 
rating pulse  heaves  the  heart.  You  feel  as  one 
walking  in  a  half-exhausted  receiver.  The  heat  at 
this  season  is  intense  ;  the  atmosphere  often  humid, 
and  your  whole  frame  yields  to  lassitude.  How  can 
a  man  attempt  any  thing  great,  when  the  least  exer- 
tion throws  him  into  perspiration,  and  even  to  dream 
seems  an  effort !  It  is  as  much  as  I  can  do  to  muster 
up  resolution  enough  to  pen  this  feeble  page  ;  and  as 
for  the  reader  he  will  probably  fall  asleep  over  it. 

Saturday,  Jan.  10.  We  had  to-day  a  forcible 
specimen  of  Rio  showers.  We  were  in  Rua  d'Ouvi- 
dor,  which  is  lined  with  the  most  fashionable  shops  in 
the  city,  when  a  black  cloud,  sailing  down  from  the 
Corcovada  peak,  rolled  out  the  lake,  which  lay  in  its 
bosom.  The  street  was  immediately  filled  with  a 
flood  of  sufficient  depth  to  float  a  family  canoe.  The 
inclined  plane  of  the  street  carried  it  off  in  a  rapid 
torrent.  The  sun  again  struck  the  pavement,  and 
we  were  at  liberty  to  renew  our  walk.  Were  such 
a  flood  to  rush  down  Broadway,  our  New  Yorkers 
would  think  their  Croton  reservoir  had  burst  its  last 
boundary.  But  here  it  creates  as  little  commotion 
as  the  breaking  of  a  bubble  on  the  public  fountain. 

The  fruits  of  Rio  are  delicious  ;  richer  oranges  and 
bananas  the  houri  never  shook  from  the  blooming 
boughs  of  Mahomet's  horticultural  heaven.     But  the 


RIO  DE  JANEIRO.  119 


milk  here,  or  the  liquid  sold  under  that  name,  has 
less  of  the  lacteal  element  in  it  than  water  filtered 
through  the  "  milky-way."  For  this  attenuated  dilu- 
tion our  steward  pays  twenty  cents  the  quart.  Ru- 
mor says  it  is  procured  from  the  maternal  functions 
of  a  tribe  of  slaves,  who  are  wonderfully  endowed  in 
this -particular,  and  who  act  as  a  class  of  wet-nurses 
to  the  community.  Be  the  rumor  true  or  not,  it  was 
very  difficult  to  use  it  after  this  idea  had  once  enter- 
ed the  imagination.  It  was  hurrying  one  rather  too 
fast  into  his  second  childhood.  Would  it  bring  back 
our  first  infancy,  with  its  innocent  glee,  it  would  do. 
But  life's  current  has  no  relluent  tide. 

Sunday,  Jan.  11.  Mr.  Wise  and  family,  with  sev- 
eral other  ladies  and  gentlemen  from  the  shore,  at- 
tended divine  service  on  board.  We  assembled  on 
the  spar-deck  under  an  awning  that  protected  every 
one  from  the  sun's  rays.  The  leading  points  in  the 
discourse  turned  on  the  value  of  the  soul,  as  asserted 
in  the  nature  of  its  powers  and  capacities,  and  in  the 
humiliation  and  sufferings  of  the  Son  of  God  in  its 
behalf.  At  the  close  of  the  service  we  all  joined  in 
singing  the  missionary  hymn  ;  the  sacred  music 
swelling  up  full  and  clear  from  so  many  deep-toned 
voices,  floated  far  and  wide  over  the  still  waters  ot 
the  bay. 

The  Protestants  in  Rio  have  but  one  place  of  wor- 


120  DECK  AND  PORT. 


ship — the  English  chapel.  They  have  been  very 
unfortunate  in  the  appointment  of  their  chaplains. 
These  appointments,  and  those  of  a  diplomatic  and 
political  character,  emanate  substantially  from  the 
same  source.  Warm,  devoted  piety,  in  its  unobtru- 
sive meekness,  seems  to  be  overlooked  in  the  glare 
of  other  qualities,  or  the  erring  partialities  of  private 
friendship.  The  last  chaplain  who  served  here  for  a 
time  and  left,  went  into  one  of  the  West  India  islands 
and  set  up  a  gaming-table.  The  English  chaplain  at 
Trieste,  as  I  had  occasion  to  observe,  was  one  of  the 
most  accomplished  waltzers  in  the  place.  Such  men 
have  their  place,  perhaps,  in  this  varied  world,  but  it 
is  not  in  the  missionary  field.  He  will  bring  very 
few  sheaves  home  with  him  who  has  converted  his 
sickle  into  a  fiddle-bow  ;  and  he  will  find  even  these 
few  made  up  mostly  of  those  tares  which  the  devil 
sowed  while  he  frolicked  or  slept. 

Monday,  Jan.  12.  A  Brazilian  gentleman  of  some 
note  sent  his  card  over  the  side  of  our  ship  this 
morning,  and  was  invited  on  board  by  Capt.  Du  Pont, 
who  received  him  and  his  lady  at  the  gangway.  He 
was  tall,  well-proportioned,  and  in  his  carriage  com- 
bined dignity  with  ease.  His  dark  locks  rolled  out 
from  under  his  chapeau  in  rich  profusion.  His  face 
had  that  calmness  and  strength  in  its  features  which 
express  force  of  intellect  and  benignity  of  heart.    His 


RIO   DE   JANEIRO.  121 


dress  was  rich,  but  not  gaudy  ;  sable  in  hue,  and  well 
fitted  to  his  stately  person.  He  spoke  in  French, 
with  a  slight  Brazilian  accent.  His  questions  were 
relevant  and  shrewd ;  his  admiration  of  our  frigate 
undisguised. 

His  lady  was  slightly  below  him  in  height,  and 
more  delicate  in  form.  There  was  something  pecu- 
liarly feminine  in  her  air,  and  yet  something  which 
betrayed  strength  of  character.  Her  small  foot  rose 
and  lit  on  the  deck  with  precision  and  airy  lightness. 
Her  countenance  constantly  changed  in  the  tide  of 
its  expressions.  The  features  were  extremely  regu- 
lar, but  you  forgot  their  well-defined  lines  in  the  har- 
mony of  the  whole.  Her  eyes  were  large,  soft,  and 
floating,  and  were  shaded  by  long  silken  lashes,  from 
which  light  and  darkness  seemed  to  fall.  When 
some  thought  of  deep  animation  struck  her,  the  emo- 
tion flushed  in  her  cheek  like  the  blush  of  morn  on  ;i 
soft  cloud.  Her  voice,  though  not  deep,  was  musi- 
cal, and  flowed  like  the  low  sweet  warble  of  a  bird. 
Such  was  she,  and  such  the  one  in  whom  her  affec- 
tions confided.  They  left  the  ship  as  they  came, 
without  ostentation.  I  have  been  told  since  that  he 
is  one  of  the  first  statesmen  in  Brazil. 

Tuesday,   Jan.    13.      Visited    the   shore   for    the 
last    time,  as   we   are  to   weigh  anchor  to-morrow 
morning.      Walked    through    Rua   d'Ouvedor,    the 
11 


122  DECK   AND  PORT. 

Broadway  of  Rio,  which  displays  in  its  fancy  shops 
the  fabrics  and  fashions  of  foreign  capitals ;  and 
where  you  can  purchase  every  thing  from  a  camel's 
hair  shawl  to  a  shoe-string,  and  from  a  Damascus 
blade  to  a  toothpick. 

Crossed  into  the  Rua  d'Ourives,  which  flashes  with 
all  the  jewels  of  Brazil.  Their  rays  bewilder  the 
eyes,  and  sometimes  the  wits.  Doubloons,  that  are 
wanted  for  bread,  are  here  parted  with  for  a  little 
pebble,  that  has  nothing  to  recommend  it  but  its 
light,  and  even  that  is  a  stolen  ray.  When  Frank- 
lin's niece  wrote  to  him  at  Paris  to  send  her  some 
ostrich  feathers  for  her  winter  bonnet,  the  republi- 
can minister  wrote  her — "  Catch  the  old  rooster,  my 
child,  and  pull  the  feathers  out  of  his  tail,  they  will 
do  just  as  well."  What  is  true  of  the  rooster's 
feather,  in  comparison  with  the  plume  of  the  os- 
trich, is  equally  true  of  the  common  pebble  by  the 
side  of  the  diamond.  The  brightest  ray  is  that  which 
flashes  from  intellect ;  the  warmest  that  which  melts 
from  the  heart. 

Of  the  hotels  in  Rio  the  best  is  the  Pharoux — an 
extensive  establishment,  under  Parisian  arrange- 
ments,  and  evincing  a  great  want  of  cleanliness.  If 
by  good  fortune  your  tester-bar  keeps  out  the  mus- 
queto,  you  fall  into  the  hands  of  a  still  worse  enemy 
in  the  shape  of  the  flea.  Besides  these  annoyances, 
the  night  tubs,  emptied  on  the  beach  of  the  bay, 


RIO  DE   JANEIRO.  123 


waft  to  your  window  odors  which  make  you  prefer 
heat  to  air.  The  goddess  Cloacina  ought  to  visit 
this  place  and  order  her  altars  under  ground,  where 
they  belong,  instead  of  having  them  transported  on 
the  heads  of  negroes,  under  the  shadows  of  night, 
and  sending  up  their  exhalations,  which  are  enough 
to  make  the  man  in  the  moon  hold  his  nose.  But 
let  that  pass.  Flowers  spring  from  corruption. 
Man  pollutes,  but  nature  purifies. 

A  spirit  of  freedom  is  gradually  working  its  way 
into  the  heart  of  the  Brazilians.  They  have  made  a 
vast  stride  in  constitutional  liberty  within  the  last 
twenty  years.  Their  government  has  ceased  to  be 
a  despotism.  Its  functions  now  embody  the  energies 
of  the  public  will ;  its  measures  look  to  the  welfare 
of  the  great  masses.  The  throne  merely  holds  in 
check  the  leaders  of  factions,  without  wantonly  im- 
pairing the  freedom  of  the  patriotic  citizen.  Should 
the  period  arrive,  when  monarchical  forms  can  safely 
be  dispensed  with,  and  the  public  will  tranquilly 
work  itself  out  in  the  shape  of  law,  Brazil  will  take 
her  station  among  free  republics. 

As  the  old  cathedral  clock  struck  eleven,  and  the 
lights  in  the  balconies  grew  dim,  the  barge  of  our 
commodore,  in  which  we  had  been  invited  to  take  a 
seat,  parted  from  the  strand  of  Rio.  Again  on  deck, 
a  farewell  look  was  thrown  to  its  hills,  sleeping  in 
the  soft  moonlight.     On  those  hills  a  Byron,  a  Cook, 


124 


DECK   AND  PORT. 


a  Magellan  have  gazed.  The  morn  still  breaks  over 
thern,  but  they  know  it  not.  The  world  may  still 
retain  a  faint  echo  of  their  fame,  but  where  are  they? 
and  where,  in  a  few  years,  shall  we  be  ?  where  are 
the  millions,  whose  voices  rang  through  the  past? 
Death  has  hushed  their  exulting  tunes,  and  their 
monuments  have  crumbled  under  the  footstep  of 
time.  And  we  are  passing  to  the  same  silent  shore. 
As  the  furrows  of  our  keel  pass  from  the  face  of  the 
deep,  so  will  the  strife,  the  sorrows,  and  the  triumphs 
of  our  being,  glide  from  the  memory  .of  man. 

"  What  shadows  we  are,  and  what  shadows  we  pursue  1" 


125 


CHAPTER  IV. 
PASSAGE  FROM  RIO  TO  CAPE  HORN. 

GETTING  UNDER  WAY. THE  LETTER-BAG. RUNAWAY  SAILOR. — ISLE  OF  ST. 

CATHERINE. — PAMPEROES. — THE    SHOTTED    GUN. — LOSS    OF  OUR    COON. 

THE  SAILOR  AND    SHARK. GENERAL  QUARTERS    AT    NIGHT. — FIREWORKS 

IN  THE  SEA. THE  PHANTOM    MJ  I  P.— PATAGONIANS. THE  FALKLAND  ISL- 
ANDS.  THE  CAPTURED  ALBATROS. TERRIFIC  GALE. CONDITION  OF    OUR 

FRIGATE. THE  SAILOR'S  BURIAL. THE  CArE  OF  STORMS. 

All  hands  unmoor—  the  captain's  brief  command ; 

The  cable  round  the  flying  Capstan  rin^s, 
The  anchor  quits  its  bed,  the  sails  expand, 

The  gallant  ship  before  the  quick  breeze  springs. 

Wednesday,  Jan.  14,  181G.  This  moiningas  the 
first  rays  of  the  sun  lit  the  Corcovada  peak,  we  trip- 
ped our  anchors,  and,  under  a  light  land  breeze,  stood 
down  the  bay  of  Ilio.  It  being  understood  that  \vc 
were  to  take  our  departure  at  this  hour,  the  officers  and 
crews  of  the  national  ships,  which  lay  moored  around 
us,  were  on  deck  to  see  us  get  under  way.  This  being 
the  first  time  we  had  gone  through  with  these  evolu- 
tions on  the  cruise,  a  slight  solicitude  was  felt,  lest 
some  awkwardness  in  executing  the  orders,  some 
want  of  perfect  harmony  and  dispatch,  should  be 
evinced.  The  liability  to  those  errors  which  we 
wished  to  avoid,  was  perhaps  only  enhanced  by  the 
presence  of  so  many  professional  eyes.  But  the 
11* 


126  DECK  AND  PORT. 


successive  orders  were  executed  with  admirable 
promptitude  and  accuracy.  We  left  our  berth  with 
the  grace  of  the  swan  gliding  from  the  place  of  her 
cradled  sleep. 

We  left  at  anchor  the  U.  S.  frigate  Columbia,  bear- 
ing the  broad  pennant  of  Commodore  Rousseau,  bound 
to  La  Plata  ;  the  U.  S.  sloop-of-war  Plymouth,  bound 
to  the  same  place ;  and  the  U.  S.  frigate  Raritan, 
bound  to  the  Mexican  gulf.  To  each  and  all  we 
waved  our  adieu,  and  filled  away  for  Cape  Horn. 
What  a  contrast  between  what  lay  around  us,  and 
what  lay  before  us !  We  were  exchanging  a  quiet 
harbor  for  a  tumbling  ocean, — zephyrs  too  soft  to 
ruffle  the  cheek  of  beauty,  for  storms  which  the 
sturdy  ship  can  hardly  withstand, — a  clime  of  per- 
petual sunshine  and  flowers  for  one  of  eternal  ice. 

Thursday,  Jan.  15.  We  were  to-day  at  12  o'clock 
two  hundred  and  sixty  miles  from  our  anchorage  at 
Rio,  a  very  good  commencement  of  our  run  south. 
We  have  been  looking  out  all  day  for  some  vessel  to 
heave  in  sight,  that  we  might  throw  on  board  her 
our  last  letter-bag,  which,  by  a  singular  inadvertence, 
had  been  brought  off  to  sea  with  us.  It  had  been 
made  up  during  our  last  night  at  Rio,  and  contained 
our  last  words  of  affection  and  remembrance  ;  and 
here  it  was  going  with  us  towards  Cape  Horn,  in- 
stead of  our  homes.     This  was  vexatious,  and  ie- 


PASSAGE  FROM  RIO  TO  CAPE   HORN.  127 

quired  that  philosophy  which  the  heart  is  slow  to 
learu.  They  who  can  write  their  friends  every 
twenty-four  hours,  will  let  months  perhaps  roll  away 
without  penning  them  a  sentence.  But  take  away 
this  facility,  spread  an  ocean  between  them  and  their 
kindred,  and  they  will  look  for  a  vessel  bound  home 
as  eagerly  as  a  condemned  culprit  looks  for  a  re- 
prieve or  pardon. 

Friday,  Jan.  1G.  Our  wind  still  continues  direct- 
ly aft ;  we  have  all  studding-sails  out  below  and 
aloft.  The  weather  is  extremely  warm  ;  the  ther- 
mometer ranging  at  87.  The  night  is  quite  as  op- 
pressive as  the  day,  and  perhaps  more  so,  as  we  are 
then  in  our  state-rooms.  The  wind-sail  is  a  great 
comfort ;  without  it  the  berth-deck  would  be  almost 
intolerable.  But  we  are  like  frogs  jumping  out  of 
the  sun  into  the  frost,  and  then  out  of  the  frost  into 
the  sun.  . 

Our  sailors  while  at  Rio  behaved  extremely  well. 
They  were  constantly  passing  between  the  ship  and 
the  shore,  and  frequently  without  an  officer  in  charge 
of  the  boat,  and  yet  but  one  or  two  instances  of  in- 
toxication occurred  ;  only  one  deserted,  and  he  was 
so  worthless  a  creature  that  no  efforts  were  made  to 
recover  him.  We  all  felt  quite  relieved  when  it  was 
known  that  he  had  run  ;  our  only  fear  was,  that  he 
would   relent    and  come    back.     Captain    Du    Ponl 


128  DECK  AND  PORT. 


might  have  said  to  him  with  some  propriety,  "  I  shall 
punish  you,  not  for  running  away,  for  that  was  re- 
lieving us  of  a  bad  man,  but  for  coming  back."  Our 
Rio  runaway  did  not,  however,  return ;  if  this  was 
the  result  of  an  unwillingness  to  ask  further  our  cha- 
rity and  forbearance,  he  is  certainly  entitled  to  some 
praise. 

•  Saturday,  Jan.  17.  The  weather  still  continues 
close  and  sultry.  The  sky  is  filled  with  a  dull  haze, 
the  sea  is  smooth,  the  breeze  very  light  and  directly 
aft,  where  it  has  been  for  the  last  eight-and-forty 
hours,  and  yet  we  have  sailed  between  12  o'clock 
yesterday  and  the  same  hour  to-day  105  miles.  Four 
knots  the  hour  is  slow  sailing  by  the  clock,  but  in 
the  aggregate  for  the  day  extends  over  a  wide  space 
of  water.  You  would  think  so,  were  you  doomed  to 
swim  it,  though  you  might  have  three  months  to  do 
it  in.  No  mai»  should  complain  of  a  horse  or  a  ship 
that  carries  him  faster  than  he  can  carry  himself. 

Besides,  why  should  we  be  in  haste  to  reach  our 
port  ?  We  are  out  here  on  a  great  ocean,  exempt 
from  all  the  troubles  and  perplexities  of  the  shore. 
Realms  may  be  revolutionized,  capitals  shaken,  dy- 
nasties overthrown,  and  we  feel  and  know  it  not. 
We  are  as  secure  as  Mahomet's  coffin,  swinging  high 
and  serene  above  the  careering  sirocco.  If  the  world 
wearies  you,  if   its  frivolities  sicken  or  its  crimes 


PASSAGE   FROM  RIO  TO  CATE   HORN.  129 

overwhelm  you,  proceed  to  sea,  get  out  on  the  broad 
ocean,  and  hold  communion  with  the  stars  and  the 
free  billows.  Here  you  are  not  a  slave  to  custom, 
you  are  not  trammelled  by  party,  you  have  not  to 
coin  your  cheek  to  smiles.  The  ocean  exacts  no 
such  homage  ;  but  impresses  on  her  children  a  por- 
tion of  her  own  grandeur  and  strength. 

Sunday,  Jan.  18.  We  have  had  divine  service 
on  a  very  unquiet  deck.  The  fall  of  the  barometer 
through  the  first  watch,  last  night,  indicated  a  change 
in  the  weather.  It  came,  during  the  mid-watch,  in 
the  shape  of  a  strong  blow  from  the  southeast.  This 
is  the  first  pampero  that  we  have  encountered,  and  if 
the  rest  are  like  this,  the  fewer  we  have  of  them  the 
better.  They  knock  you  off  your  course,  raise  a 
tumbling  sea,  and  then  leave  you  like  a  culprit  escap- 
ing from  the  scene  of  his  outrage. 

We  have  passed  the  Brazilian  island  of  St.  Catha- 
rine, unable  to  gratify  our  curiosity  by  any  stay 
there.  This  small  island  has  many  attractions  ;  its 
fruits  arc  unrivalled  ;  its  scenery  is  wild  and  pic- 
turesque ;  its  inhabitants  are  mild  and  amiable.  The 
climate,  though  warm,  is  so  modified  by  a  sea-breeze 
that  the  heat  is  never  oppressive.  The  birds  of  this 
island  are  remarkable  for  the  sweetness  and  brilliancy 
of  their  music.  The  fertility  cf  the  soil  is  seen  in 
the  rich   verdure  which  waves  in  a  mass  of  living 


130  DECK  AND  PORT. 


green  over  its  steeps  and  glens.  Could  Eden  have 
taken  its  departure  from  the  east  in  the  shape  of  an 
island,  I  should  think  it  had  anchored  itself  here  un- 
der the  name  of  St.  Catharine. 

"  How  sweetly  does  the  moonbeam  smile 
To-night  upon  yon  leafy  isle ! 
Oft,  in  my  fancy's  wanderings, 
I've  wished  that  little  isle  had  wings, 
And  we,  witliin  its  fairy  bowers, 

Were  wafted  off  to  seas  unknown, 
Where  not  a  pulse  should  beat  but  ours, 

And  we  might  hve,  love,  die  alone — 
Far  from  the  cruel  and  the  cold — 

Where  the  bright  eyes  of  angels  only 
Should  come  around  us,  to  behold 

A  paradise  so  pure  and  lonely." 

Monday,  Jan.  19th.  The  wind  is  still  out  of  the 
south  and  in  our  teeth.  It  has  taken  up  its  stand 
there  like  the  indignant  angel  heading  off  Balaam's 
ass.  This  reminds  me  -a  an  anecdote  not  more  out 
of  place  here  than  the  graceless  animal  that  intro- 
duces it.  A  man  who  stammered  to  such  a  degree 
that  he  was  under  the  necessity,  when  journeying,  to 
have  an  interpreter  with  him,  encountered  on  the 
road  a  clergyman,  mounted  on  rather  a  son  y-looking 
horse.  Before  the  parties  met,  the  stammerer  told 
his  interpreter  that  he  was  going  to  pro-pro-pose  to 
the  par-par-parson  a  certain  question,  and  then  ex- 
plained, in  his  broken  dialect,  what  the  question  was. 


PASSAGE   FROM  RIO  TO  CAPE  HORN.  131 

As  the  clergyman  came  up,  the  stammerer  saluted  him 
with  "Good  morning,  Mr.  par-par-parson:  canyon 
tell  me  wha-wha-wha" — Here  the  interpreter  came  in 
to  his  relief,  and,  with  a  satirical  leer  in  his  look, 
told  the  parson  that  his  companion  wished  to  ask 
him — what  made  Balaam's  ass  speak.  The  clergy- 
man instantly  replied,  "  Why,  Balaam  was  a  stam- 
merer, and  his  ass  spake  for  him."  This  is  not  the 
only  instance  in  which  a  wicked  wag,  attempting  an 
impudent  witticism  upon  a  simple-hearted  man,  has 
fallen  into  his  own  snare.  Wisdom  is  justified  of  her 
children. 

But  I  forget  the  ship  and  our  destination.  The 
last  we  might  well  forget  till  the  wind  hauls.  Noth- 
ing conduces  more  to  resignation  than  losing  sight 
of  your  objects.  We  are  always  in  the  greatest  fever 
nearest  our  goal.  Youth  may  indeed  pursue  interests 
which  can  be  reached  only  in  age;  but  enthusiasm 
and  anticipation  overleap  this  gulf  of  years,  leaving 
action  and  reality  to  come  along  afterwards.  Love 
lights  its  lamp  long  before  it  reaches  its  shrine ;  so 
long,  indeed,  that  it  often  goes  out  on  the  road  ;  and 
when  once  quenched,  there  is  no  Promethean  spark 
that  can  rekindle  it.  But  what  have  lamps  and  love, 
or  ladies  either,  to  do  with  our  getting  to  Cape  Horn  ? 

Tuesdav,  Jan.  20.  The  wind  has  hauled  to  the 
west  at  last,  and  we  are  now  laying  our  course.    But 


132  DECK   AND  PORT. 


such  a  change  in  the  temperature !  our  thermometer 
fell  fifteen  degrees  in  almost  as  many  minutes,  and 
remains  there  like  a  broken-down  politician.  A  day 
or  two  since,  and  we  were  panting  with  heat  even  in 
our  thinnest  dress ;  now  we  are  in  winter  apparel, 
and  cold  at  that.  Our  crew  are  barking  all  over  the 
ship.  It  is  a  little  singular  that  the  two  animals 
which  withstand  these  changes  of  climate  the  best, 
are  man  and  the  hog.  I  always  had  some  regard  for 
this  last  animal  till  he  was  introduced  into  Congress 
to  help  out  a  metaphor  of  party  animosity  ;  since  that, 
I  have  seen  him  roasted  without  compunction.  Every 
thing  is  known  by  the  uses  to  which  it  is  put. 

We  have  had  for  some  time  past  a  shot  in  one  of 
our  spar-deck  guns,  which  we  found  it  impossible  at 
Rio  to  dislodge,  to  make  room  for  firing  a  salute. 
Every  other  expedient  having  failed,  it  was  decided 
to-day  to  fire  it  off.  The  danger  lay  in  the  gun's 
bursting.  It  was  trained  to  one  of  the  forward  ports, 
the  crew  ordered  below,  and  a  slow  match  applied  to 
it.  It  went  off,  and  the  ball  with  it,  into  the  infinity 
of  space,  harming  nothing  save  the  air  through  which 
it  passed,  and  which  closed  up  again  as  suddenly  as 
Europe  restored  itself  to  its  old  landmarks  after  the 
battle  of  Waterloo.  This  was  a  tragedy  running 
foul  of  a  counterplot  in  the  very  last  scene.  It  was 
a  triumphant  wave  just  sweeping  the  shore,  and  then 
suddenly  thrown  back  by  a  rock  to  whence  it  came. 


PASSAGE   FROM   RIO  TO  CAPE  HORN.  133 

"  Thanks  for  that  lesson :  it  will  teach 
To  after  warriors  more 
Than  liigh  philosophy  can  preach, 
And  vainly  preached  before." 

Wednesday,  Jan.  21st.  We  met  this  morning 
with  an  irreparable  loss  in  the  death  of  our  coon. 
He  took  passage  on  board  our  frigate  at  Norfolk. 
The  great  presidential  election  having  just  closed, 
and  there  being  no  further  occasion  for  his  distin- 
guished services,  till  another  campaign  should  open, 
he  determined  to  spend  a  portion  of  the  intervening 
time  in  studying  the  habits  and  customs  of  coons  in 
other  lands. 

He  had  been  extremely  occupied  at  Rio  with  the 
objects  of  his  mission,  and  probably  neglected  those 
precautions  observed  by  coons  in  a  torrid  zone.  He 
was  seized  with  a  malady  beyond  the  sagacity  of  the 
profession,  and  which  suddenly  unrove  his  life  line. 
This  evening  he  was  silently  consigned  to  the  deep, 
by  the  boatswain's  mate,  who  committed  a  great 
breach  of  propriety  in  not  piping  him  over.  But  lie 
probably  thought  that  one  who  had  been  so  honored 
in  his  life  could  dispense  with  ceremony  at  his  death. 
My  Ariel,  however,  who  loved  the  coon,  and  will 
long  lament  his  loss,  has  penned  the  following: 

12 


134  DECK  AND  PORT. 


ELEGY  ON  THE  COON. 

Thou  meek  and  melancholy  moon  I 

Smile  sweetly  on  yon  curling  -ware, 
For  'neath  its  foam  our  gentle  coon 
Is  in  his  grave. 

No  more  he'll  leave  his  woodland  hole 

To  frolic  with  the  fox, 
Or  meet  the  Whiggies,  cheek  by  jowl, 
At  ballot-box : 

No  more  will  stir  the  Locos'  bile 

By  his  provoking  pranks — 
To  think  that  he,  who  lead  their  file, 
Should  quit  their  ranks. 

In  grand  processions  he  stood  out, 
High  o'er  the  gaping  crowd, 
As  if  to  him  arose  that  shout, 

Full  thunder  loud. 

He  knew  to  chasten  his  desires, 

To  curb  all  selfish  wishes, 
And  left  to  those  who  worked  the  wires 
The  loaves  and  fishes. 

The  flowing  waves  will  softly  wreath 

A  chaplet  on  his  breast, 
The  sighing  winds  a  requiem  breathe 
Above  his  rest. 

We  are  to-day  nearly  past  the  broad  mouth  of  the 
Plata.  The  wind  for  the  last  twenty-four  hours  has 
been  extremely  light,  but  we  have  made  about  a 
hundred  miles  on  our  course.     At  this  rate  we  shall 


PASSAGE   FROM  RIO  TO  CAPE   HORN.  135 

soon  be  beyond  the  reach  of  the  pampero.  This 
wind  gives  no  admonition  ;  it  springs  upon  you  like 
a  serpent  from  the  brake,  striking  with  its  fang  before 
it  springs  its  rattle.  This  is  foul  play,  but  we  must 
put  up  with  it,  or  make  ourselves  ridiculous  over  a 
wayward  element. 

Thursday,  Jan.  22d.  We  caught  our  first  shark 
this  morning.  The  rogue  had  been  following  in  the 
wake  of  our  ship  for  some  hours.  The  sailors  baited 
a  large  hook  with  a  piece  of  pork,  and  let  it  trail  by 
a  long  line  from  the  stern.  The  shark  nabbed  it,  and 
finding  himself  caught,  attempted  to  break  the  line 
by  his  vigorous  plunge,  but  it  was  too  strong  for 
him.  He  was  soon  brought  on  deck,  cut  up,  and  on 
the  fire  broiling  for  dinner.  The  sailors  ate  him  with 
that  savage  glee  which  often  attends  an  act  of  retrib- 
utive justice.  But  for  eating  him,  they  felt  quite 
sure  he  would  in  the  end  eat  some  of  them.  The 
way  to  Ji7iisli  an  adversary  is  to  cat  him  up.  lie 
will  then  give  you  no  further  trouble  save  in  the  di- 
gestion. Anthropophagy  is  greatly  abused.  It  is 
much  more  innocent  to  devour  a  man's  body  than 
his  character ;  yet  the  latter  is  done  evevy  day  ; 
while  even  a  vague  rumor  of  the  former  will  fill  a 
whole  community  with  consternation.  But  what 
has  this  to  do  with  getting  to  Cape  Horn  ? 


136  DECK   AND  PORT. 


Friday,  Jan.  23d.  Fresh  meat  at  this  rate  will 
soon  cease  to  be  a  dainty  with  us.  One  of  our  crew 
harpooned  a  huge  porpoise  this  morning.  He  shared 
the  fate  of  the  shark,  on  coals  and  the  gridiron.  He 
makes  very  good  eating ;  rather  dry,  as  the  Irish- 
man said — picking  the  bones  of  an  owl,  which  he 
had  shot  for  a  grouse. 

We  went  to  general  quarters  this  afternoon ;  all 
fire  and  lights  having  been  first  extinguished.  The 
crew  went  through  with  the  evolutions  of  an  engage- 
ment with  an  enthusiasm  that  would  not  dishonor 
the  reality.  On  these  exercises  depends  in  a  great 
measure  the  efficiency  of  a  ship  when  the  crisis 
comes.  But  there  is  one  feature  of  the  arrangement 
not  quite  to  my  liking.  I  am  stationed  at  the  cap- 
stan to  take  notes  of  the  action ;  very  cool  business 
when  balls  are  flying  around  you  like  hail !  If  there 
is  any  fighting  to  be  done  I  wish  to  do  my  part  of  it, 
but  not  with  a  goose-quill.  That  weapon  does  very 
well  when  there  are  no  cutlasses,  powder,  and  shot 
about,  but  it  is  not  quite  the  thing  with  which  to 
protect  your  own  deck  or  board  the  enemy.  It  is 
said  the  chaplain  of  the  Chesapeake,  who  wielded  a 
cutlass  instead  of  a  goose-quill,  gave  the  commander 
of  the  Shannon,  as  he  attempted  to  board,  the  wound 
of  which  he  ultimately  died :  so  much 

For  one  whose  courage  cut  him  loose 
From  weapons  furnished  by  a  goose. 


PASSAGE   FROM  RIO  TO  CAPE   HORN.  137 

Saturday,  Jan.  24.  We  were  to-day  at  12  o'clock 
full  half  way  from  Rio  to  Cape  Horn.  The  wind  is 
on  our  starboard  quarter,  the  sea  smooth,  and  we 
are  slipping  along  six  and  seven  knots  the  hour. 
The  atmosphere  has  that  smoky  appearance  which 
is  characteristic  of  our  clime  when  the  autumn  has 
set  in.  An  albatros  has  been  circling  around  our 
ship  to-day.  He  is  a  large  white  bird  approaching 
the  swan  in  size,  but  with  shorter  neck  and  longer 
wings. 

Last  night,  on  the  eve  of  the  mid-watch,  the  drum 
rolled  all  hands  out  of  their  hammocks.  We  sprung 
to  the  deck,  and  went  to  general  quarters.  The 
guns  were  cast  loose,  and  we  went  through  with  the 
evolutions  of  a  night  engagement.  Hardly  a  loud 
word  was  heard,  though  the  manoeuvring  of  our  ship, 
and  the  management  of  her  batteries,  would  have 
signalized  us  in  the  battle  of  the  Nile.  If  we  are  to 
have  a  fight,  we  shall  know  how  to  go  at  it,  whether 
it  come  at  noon  or  midnight.  What  would  have  sur- 
prised a  stranger  most,  was  the  quickness  with  which 
every  one  appeared  on  deck,  when  the  call  was  beat. 
From  the  first  tap  of  the  drum  not  more  than  three 
minutes  elapsed  before  the  last  hammock  was  stowed, 
and  its  roused  occupant  was  ready  for  action.  The 
marine  officer,  who  occupies  the  state-room  adjoining 
mine,  must  have  jumped  into  his  clothes  without  the 
time  to  draw  them  on  : 

12* 


138  DECK  AND  TORT. 


Ere  you  could  open  well  your  eye, 
He  stood  iu  arms  prepared  to  die. 

Sunday,  Jan.  25.  We  have  had  no  service  to- 
day, in  consequence  of  a  cold  which  I  had  taken,  and 
which  rendered  speaking  extremely  difficult.  Our 
wind  still  holds,  without  having  veered  scarcely  a 
point,  and  is  now  carrying  us  onward  ten  knots  the 
hour. 

We  had  last  night  a  splendid  exhibition  of  aquatic 
fireworks.  The  night  was  perfectly  dark,  and  the 
sea  smooth ;  and  you  might  see  a  thousand  living 
rockets  shooting  off  in  all  directions  from  our  ship, 
and,  running  through  countless  configurations,  return 
to  her,  leaving  their  track  still  bright  with  inextin- 
guishable flame.  Then  they  would  start  again, 
whirling  through  every  possible  gyration,  till  the 
whole  ocean  around  seemed  medallioned  with  fire. 
The  fact  was,  we  had  run  into  an  immense  shoal  of 
porpoises  and  small  fish.  The  sea  being  filled  at 
the  same  time  with  animalculse,  which  emit  a  bright 
phosphoric  light  when  the  water  is  agitated,  the 
chase  of  the  porpoises  after  these  small  fish  created 
the  beautiful  phenomena  described.  The  light  was 
so  strong  that  you  could  see  the  fish  with  the  utmost 
distinctness.  They  lit  their  own  path,  like  a  sky- 
rocket in  a  dark  night.  Our  ship  left  the  track  of 
its  keel  in  flame  for  half  a  mile.     I  have  witnessed 


PASSAGE  FROM  RIO  TO  CAPE  HORN.        139 

the  illumination  of  St.  Peter's  and  the  castle  of  Mi- 
chael Angelo  at  Rome,  and  heard  the  shout  of  the 
vast  multitudes  as  the  splendors  broke  over  the  dark 
cope  of  night ;  but  no  pyrotechnic  displays  ever 
got  up  by  human  skill,  could  rival  the  exhibitions 
of  nature  around  our  ship.  Give  me  a  phosphoric 
sea  and  a  shoal  of  porpoises  for  fireworks  :  out  on 
man  and  his  vanity  ;  he  is  outdone,  even  with  the 
thunders  of  the  Vatican  at  his  command,  by  the 
ocean  hog ! 

Monday,  Jan.  26.  We  have  been  engaged  to-day 
in  stumping  our  top-gallant-masts,  and  striking  below 
some  six  of  our  spar-deck  guns.  The  gales  often  en- 
countered off  Cape  Horn  render  these  precautions 
expedient  on  board  a  man-of-war.  She  is  not  like  a 
merchantman,  with  the  great  bulk  and  weight  of  her 
cargo  down  in  the  hold ;  her  heavy  batteries,  the 
strong  decks  which  support  them,  her  lofty  masts, 
solid  spars,  and  immense  field  of  canvas,  are  all 
above  water-mark.  She  feels,  therefore,  more  than 
her  mercantile  sister,  the  strength  of  the  wind,  and 
rolls  more  fearfully  to  its  force.  B 

It  is  seldom  indeed  that  a  man-of-war  is  lost.  But 
her  safety  lies  in  her  precautions, — in  the  fact  that  she 
has  not  the  same  motive  for  carrying  sail  as  a  mer- 
chant-ship rushing  to  a  market, — and  in  the  great 
amount  of  living  force  which  she  can  throw  upon 


140  DECK  AND  POItT. 


her  yards  in  any  sudden  emergency.  Her  crew  is 
necessarily  sufficient  not  only  for  managing  her  sails, 
but  for  working  her  batteries,  and  can  at  a  moment 
be  summoned  to  this  duty  or  that,  as  the  occasion 
requires.  In  this  lies  her  safety  in  storms  and  her 
strength  in  battle. 

Tuesday,  Jan.  27.  We  were  at  twelve  o'clock 
to-day  within  six  hundred  miles  of  the  Cape.  We 
had  a  ten-knot  breeze,  and  the  prospect  of  a  fine  run, 
when  a  black  thunder-storm  careered  into  the  sky 
directly  ahead.  We  had  only  time  to  shorten  sail 
before  it  was  upon  us.  It  swept  past,  throwing  back 
its  forked  lightning.  I  regretted  its  departure  about 
as  much  as  I  should  that  of  a  savage  disappearing  in 
the  thicket,  and  throwing  behind  the  sheen  .of  his 
tomahawk. 

But  one  evil  the  storm  has  wrought  us :  it  has  de- 
stroyed our  good  wind,  and  left  us  to  look  out  for 
another,  like  a  widow  for  a  second  husband.  No 
lady  should  marry  a  second"  time.  If  her  first  hus- 
band was  a  good  one,  she  should  cherish  his  memory: 
if  bad,  he  should  serve  as  a  beacon.  Gentlemen  may 
marry  again  ;  for  they  were  once  allowed  as  many 
wives  as  they  wished,  and  it  would  be  a  pity  if  under 
any  circumstances  they  couldn't  have  one.  But 
somehow  the  ladies  outdo  us  entirely  in  these  second 
marriages,  and  in  most  other  things  which  require 


PASSAGE   FROM   RIO  TO  CAPE   HORN.  141 

tact  and  management.     But  what  has  this  to  do  with 
getting  to  Cape  Horn  ? 

A  large  number  of  black  whales  are  plunging  about 
our  ship.  They  have  a  long  heavy  motion,  and  move 
over  a  swell  like  a  lubberly  Dutch  merchantman. 
How  the  lazy  rascals  ever  secure  their  food  is  unac- 
countable. I  should  suppose  every  thing  would  drift 
■out  of  their  way.  They  move  in  Indian  file,  and 
their  uneven  backs,  rippling  above  the  water,  so 
closely  resemble  the  bumps  of  the  sea-serpent,  that  I 
began  to  suspect  we  had  got  into  the  neighborhood 
of  Nahant,  or  that  the  commanders  of  her  fishing- 
smacks  had  lost  forever  their  great  marine  fiction : 

"  Our  army  swore  terribly  in  Flanders." 

Wednesday,  Jan.  28.  Our  good  wind,  which  the 
thunder-squall  knocked  down  last  evening,  has  not 
yet  recovered  itself.  It  occasionally  sends  out  a 
breath,  but  it  comes  faintly,  as  from  some  dying 
thing.  I  fear  we  shall  have  to  part  with  it.  Let  its 
grave  be  in  the  clouds,  and  let  the  softest  sunlight 
rest  upon  it.  May  the  thunder  which  has  killed  it 
be  compelled  to  roll  its  funeral  dirge. 

Our  thermometer  has  stood  to-day  at  GO.  The 
sky  at  the  zenith  has  been  brilliant,  but  on  the  hori- 
zon full  of  mist.  The  refraction  of  the  sun's  rays  in 
the  latter,  has  the  effect  to  lift  the  distant  line  of  the 
sea  into  a  circular  wall.     We  seem   to  float  in  the 


142  DECK   AND  PORT. 


centre  of  a  magnificent  basin,  the  rim  of  which  soars 
into  the  circumambient  line  of  the  sky.  It  is  an 
amphitheatre  of  waters,  and  as  daylight  darkens  over 
it,  the  stars  hang  in  the  blue  dome  their  lamps  of 
gushing  light.  No  human  architecture  can  rival  its 
beauty  and  grandeur.  The  Coliseum,  which  ex- 
hausted the  genius  and  wealth  of  Rome,  dwindles 
into  a  cock-pit  at  its  side.  Nations  might  be  seated 
here  as  spectators,  and  the  navies  of  the  world  float 
in  the  arena.  How  nature  pours  contempt  on  the 
vanity  of  man  wherever  she  encounters  it !  From 
the  fathomless  depths  of  the  rolling  ocean  to  the 
dew-drop  that  trembles  on  the  thorn,  she  sends  out 
her  challenge,  and  covers  the  presumptuous  competi- 
tor with  humiliation.  She  is  the  mirror  of  her  Ma- 
ker, and  images  forth  his  power  ;  and  chiefly  thou, 
great  ocean,  ever  rolling,  ever  free  and  full  of  strength! 

"  Time  writes  no  wrinkles  on  thine  azure  brow  ; 
Such  as  creation's  dawn  beheld,  thou  rollest  now." 

Thursday,  Jan.  29.  We  discovered  this  morning, 
on  our  weather  bow,  a  small  white  cloud,  skimming 
along  the  undulating  line  of  the  horizon.  Its  shape, 
its  whiteness,  in  contrast  with  the  dark  background 
of  the  sky,  and  its  horizontal  movement,  all  gave  its 
appearance  a  singularity  that  arrested  our  attention. 
When  first  seen,  it  was  going  east,  but  it  soon  tacked, 
and  stood  west.     It  was  distinctly  visible,  as  it  rose 


PASSAGE  FROM  RIO  TO  CAPE  HORN.  143 

on  the  crest  of  a  long  sweeping  wave,  and  then 
seemed  lost  behind  its  tumbling  foam — 

"  A  speck,  a  mist,  a  shape,  I  wist ! 
And  still  it  near'd  and  near'd  : 
|  As  if  it  dodged  a  water  sprite, 

It  plunged  and  tack'd  and  veer'd." 

But  it  proved  to  be  no  water  sprite — no  phantom- 
ship,  but  a  good  and  substantial  whaler,  of  New  Bed- 
ford, bound  home  after  a  successful  cruise.  Right 
glad  were  we  to  fall  in  with  her  on  this  frozen  realm 
of  waters.  We  saluted  her  with  "  Hail  Columbia !" 
She  sent  a  boat  alongside,  and  her  mate  came  on 
board.  She  had  just  doubled  Cape  Horn,  where  she 
fell  in  with  several  vessels  waiting  for  a  change  of 
the  wind.  She  had  been  out  eighteen  months,  and 
was  in  good  condition.  In  half  an  hour  our  letter- 
bag  was  ready,  the  mate  took  it  on  board,  and  she 
filled  away.  She  is  again  but  a  speck  on  the  slope 
of  the  ocean,  and  is  now  beneath  its  blue  verge. 

Friday,  Jan.  29.  Our  wind,  which  the  thunder- 
storm had  crushed,  has  at  last  sprung  up  again  with 
renewed  vigor,  like  truth  overpowered  for  a  time  by 
falsehood.  As  if  to  make  up  for  its  temporary  over- 
throw, it  is  now  overdoing  the  business.  We  have 
been  obliged  to  take  in  our  topgallant-sails,  and  fetcjl 
a  reef  in  our  topsails.     We  are  now  between  the 


144  DECK   AND  PORT. 


Falkland  islands  and  the  Patagonian  coast,  some 
three  hundred  miles  from  the  Cape.  We  are  head- 
ing, close-hauled,  for  the  Strait  Le  Mair.  The  sea 
is  pretty  rough,  but  we  are  tumbling  over  it  at  the 
rate  of  nine  knots  the  hour.  The  air  is  cold  and 
searching,  sleet  and  hail  are  on  our  deck.  What  a^ 
transition  from  the  melting  rays  of  Rjo !  A  leap 
from  a  lightning  cloud  into  an  iceberg ! 

The  wind  has  hauled,  and  we  are  now  heading  in 
for  the  Patagonians.  We  shall  find  them,  says 
one  of  our  mess,  who  has  been  among  them,  not  a 
diminutive  race,  as  is  generally  represented,  but  tall, 
well  formed,  and  possessing  great  muscular  power. 
They  live  in  huts,  which  resemble  gipsy  tents,  are 
clad  in  skins,  and  subsist  on  seals,  guanacoes,  and 
birds.  The  women  dress  like  the  men,  plait  their 
long  hair,  but  wear  no  ornament  in  the  ear  or  nose. 
They  have  all  a  bronze  complexion,  smooth  skin,  and 
one  accredited  evidence  of  nobility,  small  hands  and 
feet.  The  men  are  fond  of  the  chase,  and  are  dex- 
terous in  the  use  of  the  lance  and  bow.  The  women 
are  attached  to  their  children,  but  are  kept  in  vassal- 
age to  the  other  sex.  Their  religion  is  that  of  na- 
ture, and  its  spirit  partakes  of  the  wild  and  dreary 
elements  which  prevail  around  them.  .Let  those 
who  prefer  the  savage  state  embark  for  Patagonia, 

And  rid  themselves  of  ills  and  ails 
With  every  meal  they  make  on  snails. 


PASSAGE  FROM  RIO  TO  CAPE  HORN.        145 

Saturday,  Jan.  31.  We  gave  up  the  Patago- 
nians  as  soon  as  the  wind  permitted,  and  are  steering 
again  for  the  Strait  Le  Mail*.  The  wind  is  fitful 
and  uncertain,  and  the  air  cold  enough  to  make  you 
snap  your  fingers  ;  but  the  sky,  which  through  the 
morning  was  overhung  with  clouds,  now  throws  its 
blue  and  brilliant  lake  on  the  eye. 

The  Falkland  Islands  lie  on  our  larboard  quarter, 
and  serve  as  huge  ice-breakers  to  the  coast.  Noth- 
ing can  be  imagined  more  terrible  and  sublime  than 
the  rush  of  a  steep  iceberg  against  these  towering 
masses  of  rock.  The  tumult  and  roar  of  an  Auster- 
litz  or  Marengo  might  pass  unheeded.  So  much 
does  nature  outdo  man,  even  when  he  rouses  in  flames 
and  blood. 

The  Falkland  Islands  serve  one  important  purpose 
in  the  economy  of  the  nautical  world.  They  arc  a 
resting-place  between  two  great  confluent  oceans. 
Here  ships  in  want  of  water  can  find  it  bubbling  up 
as  freshly  as  if  it  had  never  felt  the  chain  of  winter. 
Wild  cattle  are  leaping  among  its  rocks  free  and  un- 
fettered as  goats  among  Alpine  crags.  Wild  geese 
and  ducks  swarm  in  the  bays  ;  snipe  are  so  tame, 
you  can  knock  them  over  with  your  gun  if  you  have 
not  skill  to  shoot  them,  a  circumstance  that  would 
suit  me.  The  eggs  of  the  penguin,  albatros,  and  gull, 
as  they  return  from  the  sea  to  rear  a  new  generation, 
cover  acres,  as  thick  as  hailstones ;  while  the  tea* 

13 


146  DECK  AND  PORT. 


plant,  unlike  its  delicate  Chinese  sister,  blooms  out 
amid  eternal  frost. 

Sunday,  Feb.  1.  Lat.  53°  56'  s.,  long.  64°  49'  vv. 
We  are  now  within  forty  miles  of  Staten  Land,  that 
huge  barrier-rock  of  the  American  continent,  around 
which  raves  the  Antarctic  sea.  It  is  the  very  throne 
of  Eolus,  the  centre  of  storms  which  never  slumber. 
One  of  them  struck  us  a  few  hours  since,  and  carried 
away  our  fore-topsail.  It  was  an  old  sail,  and  we 
bent  another  in  its  place,  which  will  prove  true  to 
its  trust.  We  have  sent  down  our  top-gallant  yards, 
and  set  our  try-sails.  Sleet  and  hail  are  falling,  and 
the  night  has  closed  over  us  in  starless  gloom. 

Against  the  night-storm,  you  who  dwell  on  the 
land  can  close  your  shutters,  and  retire  in  safety  to 
repose.  That  storm  summons  the  sailor  from  his 
hammock  to  the  yards.  There,  on  that  giddy  eleva- 
tion, with  his  masts  sweeping  from  sea  to  sea,  the  tem- 
pest roaring  through  his  shrouds,  the  thunder  burst- 
ing overhead,  the  waves  howling  beneath,  and  the 
quick  lightning  scorching  the  eyeballs  that  meet  its 
glare,  the  poor  sailor  attempts  to  reef  sail.  One  false 
balance,  one  parting  of  that  life-line,  and  he  is  pre- 
cipitated into  the  rushing  sea.  A  shriek  is  heard ; 
but  who  in  such  a  night  of  tumult  and  terror  can 
save  ?  A  bubbling  groan  ascends  :  the  billows  close 
over  their  victim,  and  he  sinks  to  his  deep  watery 


PASSAGE   FROM   RIO  TO  CAPE   HORN.  14? 

bier.  His  poor  mother  will  long  wait  and  watch  for 
the  return  of  her  orphan  boy;  and  his  infant  sister, 
unacquainted  with  death,  will  still  speak  his  name  in 
gladness.  But  they  will  see  his  face  no  more !  He 
has  gone  to  that  dim  bourne — 

From  wliich  nor  wave,  nor  sail,  nor  mariner 
Have  e'er  returned,  nor  one  fond,  farewell  word 
Traversed  the  waters  back. 

Monday,  Feb.  2.  As  we  were  close-hauled,  with 
Staten  Land  on  our  lee-bow,  we  carried  during  the 
night  only  sail  enough  to  steady  the  ship.  But  as 
day  began  to  glimmer,  we  shook  a  reef  or  two  out  of 
our  topsails,  and  set  our  courses.  The  sun  came  up 
with  a  cold  beam  out  of  an  horizon  of  heavy  haze. 
Light  clouds,  in  the  southwest,  began  to  shoot  up  into 
the  zenith,  and  were  followed  by  a  fierce  blow,  accom- 
panied with  dashes  of  sleet  and  hail.  Our  courses 
were  hauled  up,  and  we  were  soon  under  close-reefed 
topsails,  main  spencer,  and  fore-staysail. 

2  o'clock,  p.  m.  The  indications  of  a  still  severer 
blow  are  gathering  around  us.  The  scud  drives  over 
the  sky  with  lightning  speed,  throwing  out  here  and 
there  its  wild  black  flukes.  The  sea  is  running 
high,  and  OUT  ship  is  plunging  into  it  like  ;i  mad  le- 
viathan. We  have  benl  our  storm-sails  forthe  worst 
that  may  come.  Among  small  matters,  my  l><>"k-\ 
n  a  heavy  roll  of  the  ship,  have  just  fetched  away, 


148  DECK   AND  PORT. 


and  lie  in  every  possible  position  in  my  state-room. 
I  have  more  literature  under  my  feet  than  I  shall 
ever  have  in  my  head. 

7  o'clock,  p.  m.  The  sun  has  just  burst  through 
the  heavy  clouds  that  hang  on  the  horizon,  and 
thrown  into  light  a  bark  on  our  weather-quarter. 
She  is  visible  only  as  she  comes  over  the  combing 
summit  of  a  mountain  wave,  and  is  then  lost  in  the 
hollow  of  the  sea.  So  long  indeed  she  disappears,  you 
half  believe  she  is  gone  forever,  when  up  she  comes, 
hanging  upon  the  plunging  verge  of  another  wave. 
The  sun  has  set,  and  night  is  on  the  deep. 

Tuesday,  Feb.  3.  Lat.  by  alt.  near  noon,  55°  17' 
s.  Long,  by  dead  reckoning,  61°  32'  w.  Distance 
from  Staten  Land,  85  miles,  bearing  n.  w.  by  w.  i  w. 
(true)  heading  w.  by  s.,  and  making  no  better  than 
w.  n.  w.,  allowing  two  points  variation,  and  one  for 
the  heave  of  the  sea.  Such  is  our  position,  such  our 
prospect  for  doubling  Cape  Horn :  a  head  wind,  a 
high  sea,  and  dashes  of  rain  and  hail.  Still  we  take 
matters  very  quietly.  Our  dead-lights  are  in,  our 
hatches  hooded,  and  our  ship  under  close-reefed  top- 
sails. When  the  wind  has  blown  its  blow  out,  where 
it  now  is,  we  expect  it  will  change  its  quarters  like  a 
spendthrift  without  cash  or  credit  left. 

We  looked  out  this  morning  for  the  little  bark 
thrown  into  vision  last  evening  by  a  gush  of  sunset 


PASSAGE  FROM  RIO  TO  CAPE  HORN.        149 

light.  But  she  is  now  nowhere  to  be  seen.  She  re- 
lieved for  the  moment  our  sense  of  utter  dreariness, 
and  will  again  if  she  comes  within  the  dark  line  of 
our  vision.  It  is  not  good  for  man  to  be  alone  ; 
and  this  is  as  true  of  a  ship  at  sea  as  of  Adam  in  Eden. 
There  is  only  one  exhibition  of  social  solitude  so 
dreary  as  that  of  a  single  ship  at  sea,  and  that  is  the 
condition  of  an  old  bachelor. 

A  large  number  of  the  albatros  and  stormy  petrel 
have  been  following  us  for  hours  to  pick  up  the 
crumbs  which  the  cooks  of  the  different  messes  throw 
over.  The  albatros  gets  all  the  larger  bits  ;  the  little 
petrel  darts  about  under  its  overshadowing  wings, 
and  looks  up  for  permission  like  an  infant  to  its  mo- 
ther's eyes.  The  night  has  closed  over  us ;  not  a 
star  looks  out  through  the  thick  mass  of  clouds  above, 
and  only  the  combing  billow  flashes  through  the 
darkness  beneath. 

Night,  and  storm,  and  darkness,  and  the  ocean, 
Heaving  'gainst  their  strength  its  sullen  motion. 

Wednesday,  Feb.  4.  Our  gale  which  had  held 
out  three  days  broke  down  last  night  in  the  mid- 
watch,  but  the  fragments  of  its  strength  have  had 
sufficient  calcitrating  force  to  prevent  our  making 
any  perceptible  progress  to-day.  We  are  this  even- 
ing within  ;i  few  miles  of  where  we  were  at  the  last 
sunset,  and  the  wind,  which  comes  in  occasional  pulls, 
is  still  in  our  teeth.  This  is  doubling  Cape  Horn. 
13* 


150  DECK  AND  PORT. 


There  is  no  mistake  about  this  cape.  It  has 
shoved  itself  out  here  for  no  idle  or  mistaken  pur- 
pose. It  always  has,  and  always  will,  exact  homage 
from  seamen.  It  may  now  and  then,  from  some 
whim,  allow  a  ship  to  pass  without  these  tokens  of 
fealty,  just  as  the  pope  may  permit  a  subject  to  come 
into  his  presence  without  kissing  his  great  toe.  But 
then  it  may  put  the  very  next  ship  into  a  quarantine 
from  which  she  would  be  glad  to  escape  into  a  Span- 
ish lazaretto. 

Our  little  bark  is  again  in  sight,  hovering  like  an 
unquiet  cloud  on  the  horizon.  She  bears  up  with 
right  good  heart  against  the  winds.  Steady,  my 
little  ocean  friend !  Keep  up  thy  indomitable  cour- 
age ;  thou  shalt  yet  weather  this  cape  of  ice  and 
thunder.  To-day  we  harpooned  a  cape  porpoise. 
It  differs  widely  from  those  found  in  other  zones ;  is 
more  lithe  and  slender ;  seems  formed  for  speed,  and 
has  beautiful  black  and  white  stripes  running  from 
head  to  tail ;  the  flesh  is  less  dry,  and  the  liver  might 
almost  tempt  a  pisciverous  epicure. 

Thursday,  Feb.  5.  At  4  o'clock  p.  m.,  lat.  56°  27' 
s.,  long.  61°  57  w.  In  the  last  fifty-two  hours  we  have 
made  but  a  little  more  than  one  degree  of  latitude, 
and  less  than  half  a  degree  of  longitude.  It  will  take 
us  a  long  time  at  this  rate  to  get  around  Cape 
Horn. 


PASSAGE   FROM  RIO  TO   CA1E   HORN.  151 

The  wind  during  the  morning  came  in  cold  gusty 
puffs  from  the  south.  At  noon  the  whole  southern 
horizon  seemed  tumbling  up  in  black  jagged  masses 
into  the  sky.  This  was  a  signal  for  reefing,  which 
none  could  mistake.  But  the  men  had  hardly  got 
into  the  tops  before  the  storm  was  upon  us.  It 
came  charged  with  hail  and  sleet,  and  lasted  some 
three  hours.  The  masses  of  cloud  then  broke  asun- 
der, and  through  their  rift  the  sun-light  streamed  like 
a  torrent  from  a  forest-covered  steep. 

Two  enormous  whales  have  been  plunging  about 
us  to-day.  Their  huge  backs  as  they  crossed  the 
hollow  of  the  sea  might  have  been  mistaken  for  a 
reef  of  rocks.  They  blow  like  a  locomotive  puffing 
off  steam.  Every  puff  sends  up  a  shower  of  spiny 
which  may  be  seen  at  a  great  distance,  and  which 
guides  the  Nantucketite  with  his  glittering  harpoon. 
But  who  wrould  trust  his  vessel  in  such  a  sea  as  this 
with  a  dead  whale  at  her  side?  I  should  as  soon 
think  of  lashinjr  to  an  iceberg. 

8  o'clock,  p.  m.  The  cold  sun  has  just  set;  and  our 
barometer  has  fallen  to  29.41 — lower  than  it  has 
been  since  we  left  Norfolk.  It  has  never  yet  de- 
ceived us,  and  if  true  now,  we  shall  have  a  stormy 
night.     But  let  it  come — 

The  earth  will  on  its  glowing  axle  roll 

Though  billows  howl  and  tempests  >-hake  the  pola 


152  DECK  AND  POUT. 


Friday,  Feb.  6.  Our  barometer  vaticinated  cor- 
rectly last  evening.  The  storm  which  it  predicted 
came  punctually  as  an  executioner  to  his  condemned 
culprit.  It  lasted  through  the  greater  part  of  the 
night,  and  left  us  with  a  heavy  head-sea.  Going  on 
deck  this  morning  I  found  it  extremely  difficult  to 
preserve  my  balance,  and  brought  up  in  the  scuppers, 
though  I  have  been  on  sea-legs  between  fifteen  and 
twenty  years. 

A  long  line  was  floated  astern  this  morning,  with 
hook  and  bait,  for  an  albatros.  Several  of  these 
noble  birds  were  sailing  in  our  wake.  One  of  them 
took  the  hook,  and  as  he  was  drawn  slowly  towards 
the  ship  his  female  companion  followed  close  at  his 
side.  When  lifted  in  she  looked  up  with  an  expression 
of  anxiety  and  bereavement  that  would  not  dishonor 
the  wife  of  his  captor  in  a  reverse  of  circumstances. 
We  found  in  his  shape  some  resemblance  to  the  wild- 
goose,  but  much  larger  in  head  and  body,  and  with  a 
longer  wing.  The  hook  had  not  injured  him,  and 
though  his  wings,  which  measured  twelve  feet  be- 
tween their  tips,  were  pinioned,  he  walked  the  deck 
with  a  proud  defiant  air.  His  large  eye  flashed  with 
indignation  and  menace.  His  beak  was  armed  with 
a  strong  hook  like  that  of  the  falcon,  his  plumage 
was  white  as  the  driven  snow,  and  the  down  on  his 
neck  soft  as  moonlight  melting  over  the  verge  of  an 
evening  cloud. 


PASSAGE   FROM   RIO   TO  CAPE   HORN. 


153 


He  was  captured  by 
one  of  our  passengers, 
who  now  proposed  to 
kill  him  for  the  sake 
f  of  his  wings.  But  the 
£  sailors,  who  always 
associate  something 
sacred  with  this  bird, 
interfered.  They  predicted  nothing  but  head  winds, 
storms,  and  misfortunes  if  he  should  be  killed  ;  and 
unlocking  his  wings,  gave  him  a  toss  over  the  ship's 
side  into  his  own  wild  element.  His  consort,  who 
had  followed  the  ship  closely  during  his  captivity,  re- 
ceived him  with  outstretched  wings.  She  sailed 
around  him  as  he  lighted,  and  in  her  caressing  joy, 
threw  her  soft  neck  now  over  this  wing  and  now 
over  that.  In  a  few  moments  they  were  cradled 
side  by  side,  and  he  was  telling  her,  I  doubt  not,  of 
the  savage  beings  he  had  been  among,  and  of  His 
narrow  escape. 


Live  on  ye  bright-eyed  pair;  the  deep 
Is  yours,  each  crested  wave  shall  keep 
Its  vigils  o'er  your  cradled  sleep. 


Saturday,  Fr.n.  7.  We  have  made  but  very  little 
progress  during  the  last  two  days.  A  slant  of  wind 
has  occasionally  favored  us,  but  with  the  counter- 
current,  it  has  been  about  as  much  as  we  could  do 


154  DECK   AND  PORT. 


lo  hold  our  own.  What  we  gain  when  the  wind 
hauls  we  are  sure  to  lose  when  it  returns  to  its  old 
position.  It  is  in  our  teeth,  and  has  been  there,  with 
brief  variations,  for  the  last  six  days.  Unless  it 
changes  we  may  box  about  her  till  doomsday. 

Out  on  Cape  Horn !  Had  it  shoved  itself  between 
Pandemonium  and  Paradise,  Milton  would  never  have 
expected  Lucifer  to  weather  it.  He  would  have  sent 
him  across  the  Isthmus  of  Panama.  There  ouerht  to 
be  a  ship-canal  there ;  not  for  demons,  but  for  men. 
If  Cheops  could  build  himself  a  tomb  which  the' rays 
of  the  new-risen  sun  should  greet  before  they  touched 
the  lyre  of  Memnon ;  if  Brunell  could  arch  a  path- 
way under  the  Thames  for  the  multitudes  of  London, 
with  navies  on  its  bosom ;  and  if  Whitney  can  run 
a  railroad  from  the  Atlantic  board  to  Oregon  through 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  surely  the  civilized  powers  of 
Europe,  and  those  of  America  combined,  can  cut  a 
canal  across  the  Isthmus  of  Panama.  I  only  wish  all 
who  oppose  the  project  were  obliged  to  double  Cape 
Horn ;  they  would  give  in  before  they  got  round,  if 
not,  a  jackass  might  take  lessons  from  their  obsti- 
nacy. 

I  have  swept,  with  the  telescope,  the  whole  hori- 
zon to  find  our  little  attendant  bark,  but  not  a 
vestige  of  her  is  to  be  seen.  We  parted  with  her 
two  days  since  at  nightfall.     But  she  is  still,  I  doubt 


PASSAGE   FROM   RIO   TO  CAPE   HORN. 


155 


not,  afloat,  and  will  again  loom  to  light.     Courage, 
my  little  fellow ;  you  may  outdo  us  yet — 


"  The  race  is  not — to  be  got 

By  him  what  swiftest  runs, 
Nor  is  the  battell — to  the  peopell 

What's  got  the  longest  guns." 


■■MUE 


JWBp' 


156 

CHAPTER  V. 

PASSAGE  FROM  CAPE  HORN  TO  VALPARAISO. 

OAI.E. — HABITS    OF    THE    ALBATROS    AND     rENGUIN. — THE     SEA     OFF     CAPE 

HORN. SLEET  AND  HAIL. — FAREWELL   TO   THE   CAPE. DIRECTIONS    FOB. 

DOUBLING    THE     CAPE. — GALE    IN    THE    PACIFIC. — ArrEARANCE    OF    THE 

STARS. A     RAINBOW. — DIVINE     SERVICE. — THE     RAZOR     AT     SEA. THE 

LITTLE     BARK. PLUM    PUDDING    AND    TRIPE. — THE    CORDILLERAS. — AU. 

RIVAL  AT  VALPARAISO. 

Amid  the  storm,  an  iceberg's  form 

Came  tumbling  through  the  ocean, 
Bo  like  the  cape  in  hue  and  shape 

Our  crew,  who  watched  its  motion, 
While  rounding-to  beneath  our  lee, 

Declared  the  Cape  had  put  to  sea. 

Sunday,  Feb.  8.  The  severity  of  the  weather  and 
the  heave  of  the  sea  prevent  our  holding  divine  ser- 
vice to-day.  May  each  heart  silently  erect  within 
itself  an  altar  on  which  to  offer  the  oblations  of  con- 
trition, gratitude,  and  faith.  Religion  is  a  mission 
from  Heaven  to  the  heart  of  man ;  and  when  taken 
away  from  that  heart,  and  shrined  in  stately  temples 
and  sumptuous  altars,  it  loses  its  vitality  and  power. 
No  floating  censer  or  pealing  organ  can  have  the 
moral  efficacy  of  that  still  small  voice  of  the  Deity, 
which  speaks  in  the  whispers  of  the  human  con- 
science. 

The  gale  which  we  have  had  for  several  days 
veered  last  night,  and  brought  the  heave  of  the  sea 


PASSAGE    FROM  CAPE   HORN   TO   VALPARAISO.        157 

under  our  quarter.  It  was  enough  to  make  our  ship 
roll  her  masts  out  of  her.  Every  thing  not  secured 
by  strong  lashings  fetched  away.  Even  the  shot  were 
thrown  from  the  combings  of  our  main  hatch.  As 
for  repose  in  our  berths,  the  Countess  of  Nottingham 
had  as  much  of  it  under  the  death-shakings  of  her 
indignant  queen, — till  that  last  sleep  overtook  her 
which  grief  and  rage  reach  not.  I  write  this  with 
my  inkstand  fastened  down,  my  chair  and  table  se- 
cured to  the  deck,  and  my  paper  presenting  a  plane 
at  every  heave  of  the  sea  steep  enough,  if  it  were 
covered  with  snow,  to  tempt  the  sledge  of  the  truant. 
7  o'clock,  p.  m.  Our  barometer  is  now  down  to 
28.44,  and  is  still  falling.  The  gale  has  become 
truly  terrific  ;  the  sea  and  sky  seem  rushing  together. 
We  can  only  carry  our  storm  try-sails ;  and  even 
their  strength  is  tested  to  the  last  thread.  The  whole 
ocean  is  white  with  foam,  which  falls  in  cataracts 
from  the  crests  of  soaring  waves.  It  is  terrible 
and  sublime  to  watch  one  of  these  huge  combers 
heaving  up  within  the  horizon,  and  rolling  mast  high 
upon  you.  Niagara  gazed  at  from  the  boiling  abyss, 
is  its  only  parallel.  The  hail  is  driving  upon  our 
deck,  the  sea  breaking  over  our  bows,  and  a  starless 
night  closing  in.  Yet  a  spirit  of  cheerfulness  and 
alacrity  in  duty  animates  all.  Captain  Da  Pont, 
with  his  thorough  experience  and  sound  judgment, 
leaves  the  deck  »nly  to  return  to  it  again.     Our  first 

14 


158  DECK  AND  PORT. 


lieutenant  is  exercising  that  vigilance  which  never 
fails  him  through  the  ship,  and  our  watch-officers 
meet  the  emergency  with  great  firmness.  But  our 
trust  is  in  Him  who  can  say  to  the  chainless  wave, 
hitherto  shalt  thou  come,  and  no  further,  and  here 
shall  thy  proud  strength  be  stayed. 

Monday,  Feb.  9.  The  gale  still  continues  with 
unmitigated  force.  Our  ship  has  a  good  character 
for  steadiness,  but  last  night  she  plunged  and  rolled 
like  a  leviathan  in  his  death-throes.  At  every  heave 
of  the  sea  she  rolled  her  lee  guns  under.  The  water 
which  was  forced  through  her  ports  lay  on  her  gun- 
deck  ankle  deep,  and  rolled  in  sheets  over  the  comb- 
ings of  her  hatches.  Her  lee  scuppers  could  not 
be  opened  to  carry  it  off;  and  in  opening  her  weath- 
er ones  there  was  great  danger  of  admitting  a  tor- 
rent to  let  out  a  rivulet. 

In  the  mid-watch  my  library,  secretary,  mirror, 
and  washstand,  fetched  away.  The  books  and  look- 
ing-glass rushed  together  into  my  cot.  I  was  half 
asleep,  and  thought  for  the  moment  our  guns  were 
tumbling  below.  In  extricating  myself  I  cut  my 
hands  with  the  fragments  of  the  mirror.  I  felt  for 
my  clothes,  and  found  them  on  the  floor,  covered 
with  the  wreck  of  my  wash-bowl  and  pitcher,  and 
well  drenched.  I  hauled  on  a  few  articles  and 
groped   out  to  the  gun-deck  to  get  a  light.     The 


PASSAGE   FROM  CAPE   HORN   TO   VALPARAISO.         159 

watch  on  deck  had  just  been  relieved  and  wore 
crowding  below,  covered  with  sleet,  stiff  with  cold, 
and  wading  through  water  ankle  deep  to  reach  their 
hammocks;  there  to  turn  in  and  sleep  in  these 
drenched  frozen  garments.  What,  are  ray  ]><-t ty 
griefs  compared  with  this  ?  I  got  my  light,  and  di- 
viding my  berth  with  my  books,  shivered  mirror, 
manuscripts,  inkstand,  razors,  chessmen,  and  broken 
flasks  of  casash,  turned  in — abundantly  satisfied  with 
the  romance  of  sea-life. 

Tuesday,  Feb.  10.  Lat.  57°  34'  s.,  long.  01°  32' 
w.  We  are  very  near  where  we  were  a  week  ago. 
Seven  days  of  the  roughest  sea-service  and  in  statu 
quo  !  Our  progress  resembles  that  of  Ichabod's  court- 
ship, who  being  asked,  after  seven  years  of  devoted 
attentions,  how  he  got  along  in  the  business,  replied 
that  now  and  then  he  thought  he  had  a  little  encour- 
agement, and  should  feel  quite  sure  of  it  were  it  not 
for  the  rebuffs. 

The  gale  broke  down  last  evening.  The  remnant 
of  its  force  hauled  round  to  the  south  and  enabled 
us  to  lay  our  course,  but  a  heavy  head-sea  has  pre- 
vented our  carrying  sail.  By  the  time  the  sea  [:<»■< 
down,  and  we  have  shaken  a  few  reefs  out  of  <mr 
topsails,  it  may  whirl  back,  and  then  we  shall  have 
to  fight  the  battle  over  again,  as  the  whigs  said  when 
President  Tyler  suddenly  took  up  his  old  democratic 


160  DECK   AND  PORT. 


position.  But  nil  desperandum,  the  whigs  will  in 
time  come  into  power,  and  we  shall  in  time  double 
Cape  Horn.  But  the  Cape  and  the  democracy  are  both 
hard  to  weather. 

Our  little  bark  is  once  more  in  sight.  She  has 
survived  the  gale,  and  is  now,  with  good  heart, 
struggling  forward  to  double  the  Cape.  Our  stormy- 
petrels  still  follow  us.  They  are  ever  on  the  wing, 
close  to  our  stern,  to  pick  up  the  crumbs  which  are 
thrown  overboard.  Capt.  King,  of  the  British  navy, 
states  that  having  caught  one  of  these  birds  and 
fastened  a  piece  of  ribbon  to  it,  to  designate  it,  he 
ascertained  that  it  followed  his  ship  over  five  thou- 
sand miles.  A  lesson  to  all  good  wives  with  way- 
ward husbands. 

Wednesday,  Feb.  11.  The  wind,  as  we  predicted, 
has  gone  back  to  its  old  quarter,  like  a  wolf  to  his 
jungle.  We  have  only  been  able  to  hold  our  own. 
Sunset  leaves  us  where  the  flushing  day  found  us. 

We  have  the  albatros  still  about  us,  but  we  have 
missed  the  penguin.  The  habits  of  these  birds  are 
peculiar,  especially  when  they  get  up  their  annual 
rookery.  They  select  for  this  purpose,  as  one  in- 
forms me  who  has  been  among  them,  a  plot  of  smooth 
ground,  covering  two  or  three  acres,  and  opening  on 
the  sea.  From  this  they  remove  the  sharp  pebbles, 
piling  them  on  each  side  into  a  miniature  stone- 


PASSAGE  FROM  CAPE  HORN  TO  VALPARAISO.   101 

fence.  The  ground  is  then  plotted  off  into  little 
squares,  with  paths  intersecting  each  other  at  right 
angles.  In  each  corner  of  the  square  a  penguin 
scoops  out  a  nest ;  while  the  albatros  takes,  by  com- 
mon consent,  the  centre,  raises  a  small  mound  and 
constructs  a  nest  on  the  top,  so  that  each  albatros 
has  four  penguins  around  him.  The  paths,  which 
resemble  gravelled  walks,  are  used  for  promenading 
and  exercise,  except  the  broad  one,  which  runs 
around  the  whole  encampment,  and  where  sentries 
are  constantly  patrolling.  These  sentries  give  the 
alarm  at  the  approach  of  danger,  and  are  relieved  at 
regular  intervals.  The  watch  is  kept  up  night  and 
day,  and  is  always  under  the  command  of  the 
albatros. 

When  the  eggs  have  been  laid,  the  strictest  vigil- 
ance is  exercised  by  the  albatros  to  prevent  the 
penguin  from  stealing  them  ;  for  the  penguin  lavs 
but  one  egg,  and,  as  if  ashamed  of  making  all  this 
ado  for  the  sake  of  that  one,  tries  to  get  another  from 
the  nest  of  the  albatros.  But  the  latter  has  no  idea 
of  gratifying  the  domestic  ambition  of  its  neighbor  in 
that  way.  There  is  of  course  little  need  among  them 
of  a  foundling  hospital. 

The  eggs  are  never  left  or  exposed  to  a  breath  of 

cold   air  during    incubation.     The    male    bird,   who 

has  been  at  sea  seeking  his  repast,  returns  and  take! 

the  place  of  his  faithful  consort.     He  always  allows 

14* 


162  DECK  AND  TORT. 


her  the  most  favorable  hours  out  of  the  twenty-four 
in  which  to  secure  her  food,  and  often  brings  it  to 
her,  especially  when  the  infant  progeny  requires  her 
more  delicate  maternal  attentions.  He  never  ill- 
treats  his  mate,  or  goes  off  at  the  dead  of  night  sere- 
nading other  birds.  He  may  have  indeed  his  little 
domestic  troubles,  but  he  overcomes  them  by  kind- 
ness and  affection.  His  partner  always  greets  him, 
on  returning  from  his  brief  excursions  at  sea,  with 
the  liveliest  expressions  of  gladness.  Ye  who  prate 
of  incompatibilities,  and  fly  to  a  legislature  for  an 
act  of  separation  if  a  little  jar  occurs  at  your  hearth, 
look  at  these  birds,  and  if  there  be  shame  or  com- 
punction in  ye,  go  find  your  divorced  mates  and 
resolve  not  to  be  outdone  in  forbearance  and  attach- 
ment by  an  albatros. 

When  the  little  ones  get  sufficiently  strong  to 
endure  a  change  of  element,  the  penguins  and 
albatros  break  up  their  encampment,  and  young  and 
old  take  to  the  sea,  that  great  harvest-field  where  the 
reapers  of  earth  and  air,  under  a  beneficent  Provi- 
dence, gather  their  food.  But  what  have  penguins 
to  do  with  our  getting  round  Cape  Horn  ? 

Thursday,  Feb.  12.  The  lion-wind  still  roars 
from  its  old  lair.  That  lair  lies  directly  in  our  path. 
If  we  attempt  to  escape  it  on  the  right,  the  breakers 
of  Cape  Horn  lift  their  thunder ;  if  we  try  to  avoid 


PASSAGE   FROM  CAPE   HORN  TO   VALPARAISO.         163 

it  on  the  left,  tumbling  icebergs  present  their  steep 
fronts.  So  here  we  are,  hemmed  in  like  the  hero  of 
Marengo,  amid  the  black  battlements  and  keen  hail 
of  Russia's  capital  and  clime.  Patience,  thou  meek- 
est virtue  in  man,  still  pour  on  us  thy  soft,  submis- 
sive light. 

10  o'clock,  p.  m.  The  wind  went  down  with  the 
sun,  leaving  only  the  long,  low  undulations  of  the  sea. 
The  moon  is  forth,  placid  as  if  this  were  no  region 
of  storms.  The  stars,  without  an  obscuring  veil, 
blaze  in  the  deep  blue  vault  of  heaven.  A  Hood  of 
diamond  light  melts  down  through  the  depths  of  air, 
and  pours  itself  in  radiant  softness  on  the  sea.  There 
it  lies  unbroken  and  still,  save  where  the  sleeping 
ocean  gently  heaves,  like  one  who  should  breathe  iiL 
his  shroud.  Such  a  night  as  this  in  the  region  of 
Cape  Horn!  It  is  as  if  a  nightingale  were  t<>  pour 
its  liquid  melody  through  the  interludes  of  the  forest- 
shaking  storm. 

But  our  anxiety  is  to  know  where,  amid  this  seren- 
ity of  the  sea,  the  wind  will  next  wake  up — where 
the  slumbering  storm  will  first  howl  on  the  waste. 
The  rising  sun  will  not  find  us  in  that  repose  on 
which  he  shed  his  parting  glance. 

A  change  will  come,  like  tliat  the  sculptor  throws 
In  lines  of  life,  on  marble's  cold  repose. 

Friday,  Feb.  13.     In  the  night,  our  old  frigate  be- 


1G4  DECK   AND   PORT. 


ginning  to  stir  herself  complainingly,  like  one  trou- 
bled with  bad  dreams,  I  asked  the  officer  of  the  deck, 
as  he  came  below  from  the  mid-watch,  about  the 
wind.  "  In  gusts  from  the  northwest,"  was  the  re- 
ply. From  the  northwest !  then  we  are  laying  our 
course — that  will  do ;  and  I  relapsed  back  again  into 
slumber,  and  dreamed  we  had  rounded  Cape  Horn. 
I  saw  it  sheer  astern,  storming  like  a  savage  at  the 
escape  of  his  intended  victim. 

The  wind  favored  us  during  the  morning,  and  we 
shot  ahead  with  high  hopes  of  success.  But  by  noon 
it  began  to  haul  round  towards  the  south,  and  in  an 
hour  or  two  more  reached  its  old  quarter,  the  south- 
west. It  is  now  blowing  a  gale,  and  we  have  all 
sails  furled  except  our  close-reefed  main-top  and 
storm  try-sails.  The  sea  is  running  high,  and  the 
huge  combers,  shaking  the  foam  from  their  crests, 
are  rushing  down  upon  us  like  a  host  of  cavalry 
frothing  at  the  bit.  The  sun  is  sinking  in  cold  dim 
light,  and  seems  to  abandon  the  ocean  to  the  lashing 
tempest. 

Such  is  the  life  of  the  sailor :  one  hour  is  full  of 
sunshine,  the  next  of  storms.  He  lives  between  hope 
and  disappointment :  they  alternate  through  his  whole 
existence.  Nothing  but  the  most  indomitable  reso- 
lution could  endure  the  vicissitudes  of  his  lot.  He 
is  cheerful  when  others  would  despond,  and  triumphs 
when  others  would  despair.     He  elicits  sparks  of  joy 


PASSAGE  FROM  CAPE  HORN  TO  VALPARAISO.   1 05 

from  his  hard  lot,  as  you  strike  flashes  of  fire  from 
flint.  Ye  who  sigh  over  the  tales  of  fictitious  be- 
reavement, bestow  one  glance  on  this  real  tragedy  of 
life.  Here  are  woes  which  no  illusion  paints, — a 
death-knell  rung  by  no  unseen  hands. 

Saturday,  Feb.  14.  The  passenger  who  caught 
the  first  albatros,  and  which  was  liberated  by  the 
crew,  caught  another  the  day  following  and  killed  it 
to  get  its  wings.  It  would  probably  have  been  res- 
cued by  the  sailors  had  they  been  aware  of  the  cruel 
intention  of  its  captor.  They  associate  a  sacredness 
with  this  noble  bird  which  invests  it  with  the  privi- 
leges of  a  charmed  life,  and  regard  a  violation  of  this 
sanctity  as  an  outrage,  which  will  be  followed  by 
disastrous  consequences.  '  Dark  ominous  looks  fell 
on  their  faces  when  the  wild  whisper  went  round 
among  them  that  the  beautiful  albatros  had  been 
killed.  We  had  been  for  several  days  in  thick  foul 
weather — 

"  At  length  did  cross  this  albatros ; 
Through  the  fog  it  came ; 
As  if  it  had  been  a  Christian  soul, 
We  hailed  it  in  God's  name. 

"  And  a  good  north  wind  sprung  up  behind  ; 
The  albatros  did  follow, 
And  every  day  for  food,  or  play, 
Came  to  the  mariner's  hollo. 


1G6  DECK  AND  PORT. 


"  And  he  has  done  a  hellish  thing, 
And  it  will  work  us  woe ; 
For  all  averr'd,  he  had  killed  the  bird 
That  made  the  breeze  to  blow." 

"  And  it  will  work  us  woe" — and  so  it  has  proved,  for 
we  have  had  ever  since  head  winds,  gales,  and 
storms.  These,  in  the  simple  creed  of  the  sailor,  are 
the  penalties  through  which  expiation  is  to  be  made 
for  the  crime  of  having  killed  the  albatros. 

Sunday,  Feb.  15.  Lat.  58°  39'  s.,  long.  68°  41'  w. 
We  are  at  last  some  forty-five  miles  west  of  Cape 
Horn,  and  about  one  hundred  and  sixty  south  of  it. 
This  position  we  have  gained  in  spite  of  the  elements, 
by  taking  prompt  advantage  of  those  slight  variations 
which  will  occur  in  winds 'of  remarkable  constancy: 
still  we  are  not  round  the  cape;  for  the  wind  is 
dead  ahead,  and  is  blowing  almost  a  gale.  We  are 
on  our  larboard  tack,  close  hauled,  and  shall  be 
obliged  this  evening  to  wear  ship  and  stand  off  to 
the  southeast,  where  the  heave  of  the  sea  alone,  if 
the  gale  continues,  will  soon  throw  us  back  into  the 
meridian  of  the  cape.  Such  is  life  at  sea;  gaining, 
losing,  persevering,  and  finally  triumphing. 

8  o'clock,  p.  m.  The  cutting  gale  still  continues. 
The  sun  has  set  in  gloomy  grandeur.  As  he  plunged 
below  the  horizon,  a  flood  of  flame  flashed  up  through 
the  masses  of  cloud  which  overhung  his  descent. 


PASSAGE  FROM  CAPE  HORN  TO   VALPARAISO.        1G7 

This  soon  vanished ;  and  now  thick  darkness  settles 
on  the  sea.  The  light  of  a  full  moon  cannot  struggle 
through  it,  and  the  brightest  star  glimmers  on  it 
faintly  as  the  glow-worm  on  the  pall  of  the  coffined 
dead.  Our  sailors  have  had  to-day  very  little  of  that 
comfort  and  rest  which  belong  to  the  Sabbath. 
Though  sent  aloft  as  seldom  as  the  condition  of  the 
ship  would  allow,  still  they  have  been  often  on  the 
yards,  with  the  rain  and  sleet  driving  in  their  faces. 
Nor  have  those  on  the  deck  fared  much  better. 
When  off  watch  and  allowed  to  reach  the  berth- 
deck,  they  have  found  their  Bibles  and  tracts.  May 
these  scattered  rays  of  heavenly  light  reach  their 
hearts,  and  point  their  hopes  to  that  shore  where 
clouds  and  storms  come  not. 

Monday,  Feb.  16.  Our  southwest  gale  went  sud- 
denly down  last  night,  and  this  morning  a  fresh  wind 
rose  in  the  northwest.  We  are  now  laying  our 
course  with  a  fair  prospect  of  getting  clear  of  Cape 
Horn.  I  have  no  desire  of  ever  coming  near  this 
cape  again.     I  would  give  it  a  berth  world-wide. 

Here  and  there  a  navigator,  it  is  true,  has  doubled 
the  CajHJ  without  encountering  the  gales  which  we 
have  experienced.  But  his  good  fortune  was  an 
exception  to  a  general  rule.  A  man  may  escape 
death  under  the  gallows  by  the  breaking  of  the  rope; 
but  then  the  fifty,  who  come  after  him,  will   BWing 


IC8  DECK  AND  PORT. 

till  dead.  This  cape  has  acquired  its  stormy  repu- 
tation by  its  acts.  Had  nautical  theory  only  in- 
vested it  with  difficulties,  they  would  long  since  have 
been  dissipated  by  experience.  But  what  navigators 
found  the  Cape  a  century  ago  their  successors  find 
it  now.  It  is  as  true  to  its  stormy  character  as  a 
lion  to  his  savage  instincts.  You  may  as  well  trifle 
with  the  shaking  mane  of  the  one  as  with  the 
awaking  tempest  of  the  other. 

A  distinguished  naval  commander — the  late  Com- 
modore Porter — who  had  cruised  in  almost  every 
sea,  inserted  in  his  journal  this  significant  paragraph: 
"  The  passage  round  Cape  Horn,  from  the  eastward, 
I  assert,  from  my  own  experience,  is  the  most  dan- 
gerous, most  difficult,  and  attended  with  more  hard- 
ships than  that  of  the  same  distance  in  any  other 
part  of  the  world." 

Tuesday,  Feb.  17.  Lat.  58°  10'  s...  long.  73°  33'  w. 
We  are  at  last  round  Cape  Horn.  We  have  left  its 
stormy  steeps  astern,  and  are  holding  our  course, 
with  a  stiff  northwester,  for  more  congenial  climes. 

FAREWELL  TO  CAPE  HORN. 

Cape  of  clouds,  of  hail  and  thunder, 

Toweling  o'er  a  savage  sea, 
Lot  the  earth's  -wide  circuit  sunder 

Our  departing  keel  and  thee. 


PASSAGE   FROM  CAPE  HORN  TO   VALPARAISO.         16!) 

On  thy  scalp  the  keen  hail  dances, 

At  thy  base  mad  breakers  roar, 
'Neath  thine  eye  the  iceberg  glances 

From  its  steep  antarctic  shore. 

'Mid  thy  billows'  wild  commotion, 

In  thy  sea  of  tumbling  foam, 
Scaly  monsters  of  the  ocean 

Share  this  undisputed  home. 

Ships  of  oak,  with  storm-sails  riven, 

From  thy  plunging  combers  reel, 
Like  the  war-horse  backward  driven, 

From  the  serried  ranks  of  steeL 

Morn  in  smiles  hath  ne'er  ascended 
O'er  thy  summit  stark  and  drear ; 

Day  and  night  are  dimly  blended 
In  thy  sunless  atmosphere. 

Cape  of  clouds,  of  hail,  and  thunder, 

Sinking  o'er  the  ocean's  swell, 
Rallied  hope  and  chiding  wonder 

Shout  to  thee  their  stern  farewell. 

Wednesday,  Feb.  18.  Our  northwest  wind,  which 
we  feared  would  fail  us  before  we  had  made  sufficient 
westing,  began  to  awaken  this  afternoon  apprehen- 
sions of  a  very  different  character.  It  suddenly  rose 
into  a  gale  of  terrific  energy.  It  seemed  to  pin  the 
men  to  the  shrouds  as  they  tried  to  draw  themselves 
up  into  the  tops.  Such  was  its  roar  through  the  rig- 
15 


170  DECK  AND  TORT. 


ging,  you  could  hardly  hear  a  man  at  the  top  of  his 
voice  six  feet  off.  It  rivalled  in  force  the  hurricane 
which  we  experienced  off  Tortugas,  in  1831,  and  the 
sea  it  raised  ran  much  higher.  Our  quarter-boats 
were  in  danger  of  being  rolled  under. 

3  o'clock,  p.  m.  We  have  had  to  sail  under  close- 
reefed  main-top,  and  fore  and  mizen  storm  try-sails. 
It  seemed  almost  impossible  for  a  ship  to  live  in  such 
a  sea  as  now  roared  and  heaved  around  us.  Each 
comber  in  its  towering  height,  seemed  to  bring 
with  it  the  plunging  force  of  a  Niagara.  It  was  as 
if  the  steep  side  of  a  mountain,  with  torrents  foaming 
down  its  crags,  were  thrown  against  you  by  the 
earthquake.  Had  it  struck  us  full  on  the  broadside 
it  would  have  dashed  us  into  fragments.  But  our 
ship,  with  buoyant  energy,  rose  up  steadily  over  it, 
and  descended  again  into  the  abyss,  to  encounter 
another  just  like  it.  This  continued  till  near  sunset, 
when  the  gale  gradually  subsided,  and  now,  at  mid- 
night, is  scarcely  sufficient  to  give  us  steerage  way. 

Thursday,  Feb.  19.  The  sun  came  up  clear,  over 
a  calm,  cold  sea.  We  waited  impatiently  for  the 
wind ;  it  came  at  length  in  broken  gusts  from  the 
north,  and  so  continued  through  the  day.  At  sun- 
set we  had  a  dash  of  hail  from  a  group  of  passing 
clouds.  The  troubled  twilight  died  away  into  a  dark, 
cheerless  night. 


PASSAGE  FROM  CAPE  HORN  TO  VALPARAISO.         171 

In  doubling  Cape  Horn  from  the  Atlantic,  expe- 
rienced navigators,  who  differ  in  almost  every  other 
suggestion,  agree  in  this — the  expediency  of  keeping 
near  the  land,  and  especially  so  if  the  passage  is  made 
with  the  sun  south  of  the  equator.  In  this  period  ot 
the  year  westerly  winds  prevail.  They  often  rise  in 
the  northwest,  yet  in  their  sweep  around  the  Isles  of 
Diego  Ramirez,  take  a  westerly  direction.  Near  the 
land  you  are  within  their  circle,  and  can  take  advan- 
tage of  every  eddy  to  make  westing,  but  further 
south  you  get  their  full  force,  and  directly  in  your 
teeth. 

Besides,  there  is  very  little  danger  of  being  driven 
on  the  cape.  It  is  a  weatherly  shore.  The  heave  of 
the  sea  is  counteracted,  close  in,  by  the  strength  of 
the  current,  which  sets  with  great  force  to  the  east. 
This  current  will  carry  a  vessel  off  towards  the  Falk- 
land Islands  with  the  wind  from  the  southwest  and 
even  south.  And  should  it  veer  into  the  southeast, 
the  reacting  force  of  the  current,  close  in,  renders  the 
position  of  your  vessel  comparatively  safe,  even  when 
she  is  bound  into  the  Atlantic.  This  provision  of 
nature  against  being  driven  on  the  cape,  is  one  of  the 
few  alleviations  which  she  has  thrown  into  the  hard- 
ships of  the  mariner's  lot. 

In  rounding  the  cape  from  the  Pacific  the  sum- 
mer months  are  the  best,  for  then  you  have  short 
nights  and  westerly  winds.     In  rounding  it  from  tho 


172  DECK  AND  PORT. 


Atlantic  you  have  a  choice  of  evils  in  the  different 
seasons.  In  the  winter  you  have  long  nights  and 
icebergs,  but  favorable  winds.  In  the  summer  you 
have  head  winds,  but  short  nights  and  no  ice.  Cap- 
tain King,  of  the  British  navy,  who  has  spent  several 
years  in  the  vicinity  of  the  cape,  prefers  the  winter 
months.  But  Basil  Hall,  as  the  result  of  his  expe- 
rience, recommends  the  summer  season.  My  own 
opinion  is,  that  any  man  who  has  a  log-hut  on  land, 
with  a  corn  cake  at  the  fire,  and  who  will  consent  to 
leave  them  to  double  Cape  Horn  for  any  purpose 
whatever,  is  a  proper  subject  for  a  lunatic  asylum. 

Friday,  Feb.  20.  Lat.  59°  51'  s.,  long.  80°  12'  w. 
The  wind  having  veered  this  morning  into  the  south- 
west, we  tacked  ship  and  stood  north.  The  weather 
through  the  day  has  had  all  the  extremes  incident  to 
high  latitudes  ;  an  hour  of  bright  sunshine,  and  then 
a  squall.  We  have  not  had  at  any  time  since  we  came 
off  the  cape,  a  smooth  sea  and  a  steady  wind.  We 
have  now  the  long,  sweeping  waves  of  the  Pacific. 
They  image,  in  their  majesty,  the  grandeur  of  the 
ocean  over  which  they  roll.  Nature  never  impairs 
the  sublimity  of  her  works  by  blending  the  trivial 
with  the  vast.  The  shout  of  her  torrents  fills  with 
solemn  echoes  the  old  ancestral  wood.  The  many- 
voiced  waves  of  her  oceans  shake  the  green  isles  with 
their  stately  anthems. 


PASSAGE  FROM  CAPE  HORN  TO  VALPARAISO.        173 

But  nature  has,  in  this  portion  of  her  mighty  domain, 
sources  of  the  beautiful  and  sublime  in  the  constella- 
tions which  light  her  heavens.  Each  star  burns  out 
from  the  blue  vault  with  the  brilliancy  and  force  of 
an  independent  sun.  It  has  a  breadth  of  circle  and 
an  intensity  of  light  which  opens  on  you  like  the 
flame  from  the  eye  of  the  volcano.  And  then  there 
is  the  Southern  Cross,  a  constellation  hanging  serene 
and  beautiful  over  the  troubled  night  of  the  grave. 
To  it  not  only  the  Christian  pilgrim  turns  in  his  path 
to  heaven,  but  the  weary  traveller  of  earth  seeks  his 
late  repose  by  its  inclined  beam. 

"  Tis  past  midnight ;  the  Cross  begins  to  bend." 

Saturday,  Feb.  21.  Our  westerly  winds  still  hold  ; 
we  are  braced  up  sharp,  and  steering  north.  But  we 
have  had  to-day  a  strong  current  setting  us  east,  and 
trying  to  drive  us  back  again  off  Cape  Horn.  We  have 
lost  by  its  force  one  degree  of  the  westing  we  had 
made.  If  it  continues,  and  the  wind  remains  in  its  pres- 
ent quarter,  we  shall  be  obliged  ultimately  to  tack  ship 
and  stand  off  to  the  southwest ;  a  gloomy,  discour- 
aging result.  It  is  the  fate  of  Agag  after  congratu- 
lating himself  on  his  escape.  But  He  whose  steps 
are  on  the  clouds,  and  whose  pathway  is  in  the  mighty 
deep,  will  order  all  things  right. 

We  had  to-day,  at  sunset,  a  sudden  shower.  It 
fell  from  a  cloud  travelling  east  upon  an  upper  cur- 
15* 


174  DECK  AND  PORT. 


rent  of  air,  and  which  carried  on  its  front,  as  it  passed 
down  over  the  swelling  arch  of  the  ocean,  a  magnifi- 
cent sun-bow.  A  moment  before  all  had  been  cloud, 
darkness,  and  storm — 

"  When  overhead  this  rainbow,  bursting  through 

The  scattering  clouds,  shone,  spanning  the  dark  sea, 
Resting  its  bright  base  on  the  quivering  blue : 

And  all  within  its  arch  appeared  to  be 
Clearer  than  that  without,  and  its  wide  hue 

Waxed  broad  and  waving  like  a  banner  free. 
It  changed  again ;  a  heavenly  chameleon, 

The  airy  child  of  vapor  and  the  sun, 
Brought  forth  in  purple,  cradled  in  vermilion, 

Baptized  in  molten  gold,  and  swathed  in  dun." 

Sunday,  Feb.  22.  Though  the  sea  is  rough,  and 
the  roll  of  the  ship  deep,  we  have  had  divine  service. 
Even  a  brief  service  is  much  better  than  none.  It 
is  a  recognition  of  the  sanctity  of  the  Sabbath,  and 
of  our  obligations  to  that  Being  whose  guardian  care 
is  our  defence. 

If  dependence  can  awaken  the  voice  of  suppli- 
cation, the  sailor,  of  all  men,  should  be  the  most 
devout.  His  poor  frail  bark  floats  between  life  and 
death.  A  sudden  tempest,  a  latent  rock,  or  a  spark 
of  fire,  and  he  sinks  into  a  strangling  grave.  He 
may  emerge,  but  it  is  only  to  strike  his  strong  arms 
in  wild  despair.  No  drifting  plank  floats  between 
him  and   the  "pale  bourne."     Prepared  or  unpre- 


PASSAGE   FROM  CAPE  HORN  TO  VALPARAISO.        175 

pared,  he  must  appear  at  once  before  the  dread  tri- 
bunal and  answer  for  the  deeds  of  his  erring  life. 
He  should  live  with  these  awful  realities  ever  present 
to  his  thoughts.  Like  the  bird  of  the  stormy  peak, 
his  pinion  should  be  ever  ready  to  unfurl  itself.  But 
from  his  flight  there  is  no  return ;  he  is  off  into  the 
boundless  unknown. 

This  is  the  anniversary  of  the  birthday  of  Wash- 
ington. Its  sacredness  is  in  harmony  with  his  serene 
virtues.  Too  pure  for  corruption,  too  disinterested 
for  ambition,  he  lived  for  his  country  and  his  God. 
The  entire  energies  of  his  being  were  surrendered  to 
those  great  interests  which  will  quicken  the  hopes  of 
man  when  the  marble  that  guards  his  dust  has 
crumbled.  He  has  left  an  example  which  throws  its 
steady  light  on  the  fetters  of  captive  nations  and  into 
the  pale  recesses  of  kings.  Millions  who  sit  in  dark- 
ness will  yet  hail  its  auroral  splendors. 

Monday,  Feb.  23.  To  save  ourselves  from  being 
carried  back  among  the  Patagonians,  we  have  tacked 
ship  and  arc  standing  southwest  by  west.  This,  with 
two  points  variation,  and  the  current  in  our  favor, 
will  enable  us  to  make  a  nearly  west  course.  With 
the  first  material  variation  in  the  wind  we  shall  be 
able  to  go  upon  our  larboard  tack  and  make  a  stretch 
up  the  coast. 

The  high  sea  and  heavy  roll  of  our  ship  made  the 


176  DECK  AND  PORT. 


use  of  the  razor  this  morning  a  delicate  operation. 
I  had  strapped  the  instrument  and  laid  it  on  my 
bureau,  when  away  it  went  into  the  wash-bowl. 
Having  fished  it  up  and  made  it  secure,  I  got  out  my 
china  box  of  shaving-soap,  but  laying  it  down  for 
a  moment  to  find  the  brush,  crash  it  went  on  the 
floor.  Picking  up  the  fragments,  I  managed  to  raise 
suds  enough  for  the  present  occasion  ;  when  looking 
around  for  my  razor,  to  my  astonishment,  it  could 
nowhere  be  found.  It  had  fetched  away  again,  and 
brought  up  in  one  of  my  boots.  But  I  had  no  sooner 
recovered  it,  than  my  candle,  having  caught  the 
moving  infection,  rushed  into  my  cot  and  scorched 
my  pillow-case.  All  things  being  righted  again,  and 
a  little  fresh  suds  applied  where  the  old  had  evap- 
orated, I  took  the  razor,  and  watching  for  the  ship  to 
get  on  an  even  keel,  gave  a  clip ;  but  it  so  happened 
the  ship  plunged  instead  of  rolling,  and  this  brought 
the  point  of  the  razor  in  contact  with  the  extremity 
of  the  nose,  where  a  severe  cut  proclaimed  itself  in 
a  gush  of  blood.  But  stanching  the  wound,  I 
managed  at  length,  by  a  clip  here,  and  another 
there,  to  disencumber  the  chin  of  its  stubble.  Such 
are  some  of  the  advantages  for  shaving  at  sea. 
Man  was  made  perfect,  but  has  sought  out  many 
inventions,  and  this  of  shaving  at  all  is  one  of 
them. 


PASSAGE  FROM  CAPE   HORN   TO  VALPARAISO.         177 

Tuesday,    Feb.  24.     Lat.    53°    35'   s.,   long.    78° 

56'  w. 

"  It  comes  resistless,  and  with  foaming  sweep, 
Upturns  the  whitening  surface  of  the  deep ; 
Id  such  a  tempest,  borne  to  deeds  of  death, 
The  wild-weird  sisters  scour  the  blasted  heath." 

The  black  clouds  which  hovered  in  the  western  hori- 
zon last  evening,  hung  their  banners  of  darkness  over 
the  descending  sun,  as  if  impatient  of  the  presence  of 
that  orb  in  the  frightful  work  which  they  purposed. 
Before  his  level  rays  had  left  the  ocean,  their  waiting 
squadrons  began  to  rally.  One  black  cohort  after 
another  filed  into  the  ranks,  till  they  presented  a  solid 
mass  of  impetuous  strength.  Thus  compact,  they 
moved  down  upon  the  plane  of  the  trembling  sea. 
When  opening  to  the  right  and  left,  a  tempest  rushed 
forth,  which  seemingly  nothing  but  the  stable  moun- 
tains could  withstand. 

Our  ship  had  been  put  under  storm-sails  for  the 
encounter  ;  and  yet,  even  with  this  precaution,  she 
rolled  down  before  its  force  like  a  crushed  foe  ;  while 
the  crested  waves  howled  over  her  as  savages  in  a 
death-dance  over  their  victim.  It  was  some  minutes 
before  she  could  recover  herself.  She  was  overpow- 
ered, but  her  courage  was  not  broken.  At  every 
pause  in  the  storm  she  came  up,  and  then  plunged 
into  it  as  if  for  life  or  death.  The  conflict  closed 
about  midnight,  and  our  ship  won  another  laurel  for 


178  DECK  AND  PORT. 


steadiness  and  strength.     This  was  the  most  violent 
gale  that  we  have  experienced. 

Wednesday,  Feb.  25.  We  had  this  evening  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  phenomena  connected  with  sun- 
set at  sea.  The  flaming  orb  had  been  for  more  than 
an  hour  below  the  horizon,  when  the  long,  dark  bank 
of  clouds,  beneath  which  he  had  disappeared,  lifted, 
disclosing  a  lake  of  golden  light,  which  poured  its 
melting  radiance  far  and  wide  over  the  sea.  It 
seemed  as  a  rosy  morn  rising  out  of  the  bosom  of 
night. 

Not  a  star  lit  the  blue  vault,  and  yet  the  spars  and 
tracery  of  our  ship  became  visible  in  the  soft  efful- 
gence of  the  departed  sun.  When  the  beautiful  of 
earth  die,  they  carry  their  pale  charms  with  them  to 
the  shroud ;  but  when  the  brilliant  orbs  of  the  sky 
depart,  they  light  their  very  pall  with  their  surviving 
splendors.  The  light  even  of  the  Pleiad,  lost  in  the 
infant  world,  still  circles  around  her  choiring  sisters, 
who  have  poured  for  ages  her  sweet  melodious  dirge. 

Our  long-lost,  little  bark  peered  to  light  this  morn- 
ing on  our  lee-beam.  We  had  parted  with  her  in  a 
storm  off  the  Cape,  and  had  relinquished  all  expecta- 
tion of  falling  in  with  her  again.  But  here  she  is, 
within  three  miles  of  us,  with  the  American  ensign 
flying  at  her  peak,  in  answer  to  ours.  We  may  yet 
speak  her.     She  is,  we  conjecture,  the  Charles,  which 


PASSAGE   FROM  CArE   HORN  TO   VALPARAISO.         179 

sailed  from  Boston  on  the  first  of  November,  bound 
to  the  Sandwich  Islands.  If  she  stops  at  Valparaiso 
she  will  probably  find  us  there.  We  outsail  her, 
though  she  has  managed,  by  keeping  close  in,  to 
double  the  Horn  with  us. 

Thursday,  Feb.  20.  Our  west  wind  continued 
through  yesterday  and  carried  us  some  eight  knots 
the  hour  towards  our  port ;  but  this  morning  it  has 
veered  into  the  north  and  compelled  us  to  go  upon 
our  starboard  tack.  This  steering  due  west,  when 
our  port  lies  due  north,  is  reaching  our  destination 
by  right  angles.  But  there  is  no  angle,  that  ever  yet 
shaped  itself  in  the  wildest  mathematical  dream, 
Which  is  not  described  by  a  ship  at  sea.  The  path 
of  the  boa  constrictor  is  not  further  from  a  right  line. 

Our  nights  are  beginning  to  lengthen  as  we  ap- 
proach the  sun.  Off  the  Cape  we  had  only  a  brief 
dip  of  darkness.  The  day  was  sixteen  hours,  twi- 
light three,  and  the  night  five.  Our  fowls  lost  their 
reckoning,  and  were  clucking  and  crowing  when 
they  should  have  been  asleep.  What  could  be  done 
in  our  country  with  only  five  hours  of  night?  Be- 
fore the  elite  of  our  city  got  to  a  party  it  would  be 
daylight  ;  and  as  for  the  rural  swain,  who  does  all 
his  courting  on  Sunday  night,  the  sun  would  be  np 
before  he  had  got  halfway  to  the  all-important,  yet 
very  awkward  question.      He  would  have  to  begin 


180  DECK   AND  PORT. 


anew  each  Sabbath  eve,  and  stop  where  he  left  off 
before.  A  sailor  would  settle  the  whole  business  in 
fifteen  minutes,  and  what  is  more,  he  would  then 
stick  to  his  bargain  for  better  or  worse.  He  never 
troubles  a  court  or  legislature  for  a  divorce.  If  he 
cannot  make  good  weather  on  one  tack  he  tries 
another ;  but  he  never  throws  his  mate  overboard, 
nor  scuttles  his  own  ship.     But  let  that  pass. 

Friday,  Feb.  27.  It  is  now  forty-four  days  since 
we  left  Rio.  We  had  a  splendid  run  to  the  Cape, 
but  since  that  we  have  wrenched  every  league  from 
the  elements  by  the  hardest.  We  sailed  two  thou- 
sand miles  off  the  Cape  to  make  four  hundred  on  our 
course.  We  literally  beat  round  it.  A  feat  that  h4as 
been  deemed  almost  impracticable.  We  have  hardly 
been  for  an  hour  without  a  head  wind  and  a  head 
sea.  We  have  the  latter  to-day,  but  a  wind  from 
the  west  that  is  driving  us  on  in  spite  of  it  nine  knots 
the  hour. 

We  are  rapidly  reaching  more  genial  latitudes. 
The  transition  is  like  that  from  Lapland  to  the  Line. 
The  severity  of  the  cold  off  the  cape  is  inexplicable. 
The  thermometer  never  fell  below  the  freezing  point, 
and  yet  no  amount  of  clothing  we  could  put  on, 
would  keep  us  warm.  We  shivered  in  double 
flannels  and  over-coats ;  our  feet,  had  they  been 
chiselled  from  ice,  could  scarcely  have  been  colder ; 


PASSAGE   FROM  CAPE  HORN   TO   VALPARAISO.         181 

*— . — — _ _ 

and  all  this  in  a  temperature  that  would  not  crisp  a 
pool  of  sleeping  water.  Hail  fell,  it  is  true,  with 
great  force  and  frequency,  but  it  was  from  upper 
strata  of  air.  The  currents  nearer  the  sea  would 
not  have  congealed  vapor. 

It  will  be  said  we  felt  the  cold  more,  coming,  as 
we  did,  from  a  torrid  clime.  But  the  system  does 
not  cool  down  so  rapidly.  The  rigors  of  the  first 
northern  winter  are  felt  least  by  those  born  nearest 
the  sun.  The  Italian  division  in  the  Russian  cam- 
paign suffered  less  than  any  other.  The  Poles  fell 
like  icicles  from  a  tree  shaken  by  a  winter  storm, 
while  the  Neapolitans  seemed  to  melt  the  very  snows 
in  which  they  bivouacked.  The  cold  we  experi- 
enced is  to  be  ascribed  to  the  absorption  of  electri- 
city from  the  system  by  the  condition  of  the  atmos- 
phere. 

Saturday,  Feb.  28.  Lat.  45°  10'  s.,  long.  80° 
24'  w.  We  are  now  making  a  good  run  towards  our 
port.  If  our  west  wind  holds  we  shall  in  a  few  days 
let  go  our  anchors  in  the  harbor  of  Valparaiso. 
Fresh  meat,  vegetables,  and  milk  will  be  a  luxury. 
Our  last  pig  and  fowl  went  some  days  since  to  the 
cook.  Our  potatoes  still  hold  out,  but  they  are  not 
larger  than  bullets,  and  arc  as  full  of  water  as  a  tick 
of  blood.  Our  hommony  is  in  the  kernel,  and  will 
not  soften  sufficiently  for  use  short  of  a  week's  buil- 

1G 


182  DECK  AND  PORT. 


ing,  which  is  hardly  practicable  in  a  ship's  economy 
of  water. 

The  only  fresh  article  of  the  flesh  kind  that  comes 
upon  our  table,  is  salmon,  which  has  been  preserved 
in  air-tight  jars.  Our  bread  is  baked  on  board ;  by 
what  process  it  is  attempted  to  be  raised  I  know  not; 
but  well  would  it  be  for  human  nature  were  its 
vanity  as  little  puffed  up.  We  attempted  a  plum- 
pudding  to-day,  but  every  plum  was  as  soundly  im- 
bedded as  marine  fossils  in  primitive  rocks.  We 
have  some  tripe  left,  but  I  understand  the  leader  of 
our  band  wants  it  for  a  drum-head,  and  our  black- 
smith is  anxious  to  get  it  for  an  apron.  If  its  apti- 
tudes determine  the  disposition  to  be  made  of  it,  no 
connoisseur  in  gastrotomy  can  save*  it  from  the 
anvil  or  the  drum.  Well  dried  it  would  ring  a 
good  tattoo, 

Or  shield  a  Vulcan,  while  he  shapes 
The  form  his  bolted  thunder  takes. 

Sunday,  March  1.  Divine  service  on  the  spar- 
deck  ;  officers  and  crew  present ;  the  air  balmy  ;  the 
broad  Pacific  heaving  in  silent  majesty  around,  and 
a  soft  cloud,  loaded  with  the  incense  of  nature,  soar- 
ing into  the  great  dome  of  heaven.  Lead  me  for 
worship — 

Not  to  the  dome,  where  crumbling  arch  and  column 
Attest  the  feebleness  of  mortal  hand. 


PASSAGE   FROM   CAPE   HORN  TO  VALPARAISO.         183 

But  to  the  fane,  most  catholic  and  solemn, 

Which  God  hath  planned : 
To  that  cathedral,  boundless  as  her  wonder, 

Whose  quenchless  lamps  the  sun  and  moon  supply ; 
Its  choir,  the  winds  and  waves ;  its  organ,  thunder ; 

Its  dome,  the  sky. 

Found  in  the  sick-bay  to-day  a  sailor,  who  spoke 
feelingly  and  well  on  the  subject  of  religion.  He  is 
a  member  of  the  Methodist  church,  and  carries  a 
warm,  devoted  heart  under  his  rude  exterior.  It  is 
not  the  smoothest  cloud  that  has  in  it  the  most  of 
summer's  balmy  breath.  It  is  a  great  comfort  to  me 
to  find  among  the  crew  here  and  there  one  of  earnest 
piety.  His  example  flashes  out  like  a  star  from  a 
sky  of  cloud  and  storm.  God  grant  these  lights  may 
be  multiplied  till  our  whole  horizon  shall  be  lit  with 
their  steady  splendors. 

Mrs.  Ten  Eyke,  the  wife  of  our  consul  on  board, 
whose  health  has  been  for  some  time  delicate,  is 
gradually  sinking.  How  cold  the  grave  to  one  so 
young,  to  whom  the  earth  seems  so  fair,  and  life  so  full 
of  joyous  pulses  !  O  death!  to  thy  unbreathing  realm 
glide  silently  away  the  beautiful  and  the  beloved. 

"  They  hear  a  voice,  we  may  not  hear, 
Which  says  they  must  not  stay ; 
They  see  a  hand  we  may  not  sec, 
Which  beckons  them  away." 

Monday,  March  2.     We    fidded   our   topgallant- 


184  DFXK  AND  PORT. 


masts ;  crossed  our  royal  yards ;  rousted  up  and 
mounted  the  eight  spar-deck  guns,  which  had  been 
struck  below  off  the  Cape  ;  unbent  our  heavy  topsails 
and  courses,  and  bent  lighter  ones  ;  holystoned  our 
decks  ;  scrubbed  our  paint-work ;  cleaned  our  brass 
rails  ;  finished  our  new  side-ladder  ;  and  repaired  the 
whaleboat  stove  in  the  gale.  A  good  day's  work  all 
this,  and  a  wide  stride  in  our  preparations  for  port. 
Our  band  in  the  mean  time  is  practising  some  bril- 
liant airs,  with  which  we  expect  to  captivate  the 
Chilanos.  But  of  all  the  music  that  ever  melted  on 
mortal  ear,  give  me 

The  lay  of  streamlets,  and  the  trill  of  birds, 
The  lisp  of  children,  and  their  earliest  ■words. 

The  coelebs  may  turn  away  from  these  earliest 
words,  for  they  have  a  music  which  he  understands 
not.  There  is  not  a  string  in  his  soul  which  they 
can  touch — not  a  chord  to  vibrate  as  their  pulses 
play  over  it.  But  should  he  wed,  and  a  sweet  minia- 
ture of  life  reflect  his  own  features,  lisp  with  his 
voice,  and  smile  with  his  eyes,  he  would  hang  over 
it  as  the  Peri  over  the  long-sought  secret  that  was  to 
admit  her  to  celestial  bliss.  Its  faintest  note  would 
breathe  a  sweeter  strain  than  ever  trembled  from  the 
strings  of  the  Orphean  lyre.  The  earth  might  be 
full  of  loudest  harmonies,  but  he  would  still  turn  his 
ear  to  that  slender  note  of  piping  infancy.  But  let 
that  pass. 


PASSAGE   FROM  CAPE   HORN   TO   VALPARAISO.         185 

Tuesday,  March  3.  Our  studding-sails,  which 
have  lain  undisturbed  for  several  weeks,  have  been 
out  to-day,  below  and  aloft,  to  a  light  breeze  from 
the  south.  The  sea  has  been  smooth,  presenting 
only  its  long,  majestic  undulations.  The  ocean  never 
rests.  From  the  day  morn  first  broke  over  its  silent 
depths,  it  has  been  rolling  on  to  the  present  hour. 
Capitals  have  crumbled  on  its  shores,  thrones  and 
dynasties  perished,  but  it  still  rolls  on  in  the  majesty 
of  its  unabated  strength. 

Our  preparations  for  port  are  still  going  on.  Our 
standing  rigging  has  been  tarred ;  our  masts,  yards, 
booms,  and  hull  have  received  a  fresh  coat  of  paint. 
Our  guns  are  beginning  to  throw  back  the  sun-light 
from  their  polished  surface.  You  would  hardly  sus- 
pect such  vollied  thunder  could  sleep  in  their  re- 
cesses. Our  cutlasses  have  been  furbished,  our 
boarding-pikes  sharpened,  and  our  carbines  made 
true  to  their  trust.  We  bear  the  olive-branch  and 
the  sword. 

Our  albatrosses  have  left  us.  They  followed  us  to 
the  verge  of  the  summer's  clime,  and  then,  wheeling 
on  their  bold,  arching  wings,  sped  back  to  their  win- 
try domain.  They  were  our  only  companions  oft* 
the  Cape,  and  something  like  a  sentiment  of  bereave- 
ment fell  on  us,  as  they  took  their  departure. 

The  heart  will  doubly  feel  alone, 

When  '.hat  which  (served  to  cheer  hath  flown. 

1G* 


186  DECK   AND  TORT. 


Wednesday,  March  4.  Our  sick  list,  which  ran 
up  to  forty,  in  consequence  of  the  hardships  and  ex- 
posures off  the  cape,  is  rapidly  diminishing.  Com- 
modore Stockton,  who  has  been  quite  ill,  is  convales- 
cent. We  should  regret  extremely  any  circumstance 
that  would  deprive  us  of  the  pleasures  and  advan- 
tages derived  from  our  present  relations  to  him. 
Mr.  G.,  one  of  our  watch  officers,  has  been  for  some 
days  confined  to  his  berth.  But  he  is  gathering 
strength  again,  and  will  soon  be  able  to  resume  his 
post  on  the  quarter-deck. 

As  for  myself,  I  am  a  slender  reed,  easily  bowed 
before  the  blast,  but  coming  up  again  as  soon  as  its 
force  is  spent.  I  entered  the  navy  with  a  constitu- 
tion impaired  by  sedentary  habits,  and  have  perhaps 
derived  some  advantage  from  the  recreations  and  ad- 
ventures involved  in  a  sea-life.  I  have  been  in 
every  variety  of  climate,  but  I  doubt  much  if  these 
changes  have  been  promotive  of  health.  My  advice 
to  invalids  is,  never  go  to  sea  with  the  expectation 
that  ship-board  is  to  restore  you.  A  change  of  cli- 
mate may  be  of  benefit,  but  the  passage  in  nine  cases 
out  of  ten  will  begin  in  seasickness  and  end  in  de- 
bility. If  you  have  a  comfortable  home,  stay  by  it ; 
if  your  digestion  is  bad,  stop  eating;  if  your  nerves 
are  deranged,  bathe  in  cold  water;  if  you  have  chil- 
dren, romp  and   frolic  with  them.     This   is    much 


PASSAGE   FROM  CAPE   HORN  TO   VALPARAISO.        187 

better  than  sucking  sugar  canes  in  Cuba,  or  going  to 
Rome  to  kiss  the  pope's  toe. 

Thursday,  March  5.  Our  hawse  bucklers  are 
out,  our  chains  bent,  and  we  are  now  ready  to  let  go 
our  anchors ;  we  are  still  seventy  miles  from  our 
port,  but  the  first  breeze,  which  breaks  the  calm  of 
the  sea,  will  probably  take  us  in.  We  are  now  fifty 
one  days  out  from  Rio,  and  more  than  half  of  them 
have  been  passed  in  storms.  We  have  been  at  sea 
since  we  left  the  United  States,  one  hundred  and 
three  days ;  and  have  sailed,  in  that  time,  twelve 
thousand  two  hundred  and  twenty  miles.  We  have 
yet  some  twelve  thousand  miles  more  to  sail  before 
we  circle  round  into  the  port  where  we  may  look  for 
repose.  Our  ship  is  another  dove  over  the  unsub- 
sided  waters  of  the  deluge. 

Several  of  the  stormy  petrels,  which  joined  us  be- 
fore we  reached  the  Cape,  are  still  skimming  along 
in  the  wake  of  our  keel.  They  follow  us,  as  little 
politicians  their  leader,  for  crumbs,  not  of  office — 
they  are  too  sensible  for  that — but  of  Jack's  table- 
cloth ;  and  in  doing  this  they  never  displace  or  dis- 
turb their  betters.  Between  a  stormy  petrel  and  a 
little  party  politician  I  should  not  hesitate  a  moment 
where  to  place  my  regard.  We  have  had  about  us 
to-day  a  flotilla  of  whales,  sharks,  and  porpoises. 
Their  gambols  stirred  the   sleeping   sea  into  foam. 


188  DECK  AND  PORT. 


They  seemed  to  be  trying  their  speed.  The  whale 
was  quickest  to  the  goal,  but  slowest  in  doubling  it. 
His  head  is  entirely  too  far  from  his  tail.  I  com- 
mend his  case  to  the  Owenites  at  their  next  world- 
convention. 

Friday,  March  6.  The  light  breeze  which  fanned 
us  along  faintly  through  the  night,  has  left  us  in  the 
morning- watch  within  twenty  miles  of  our  port.  The 
coast  on  our  starboard  beam  lies  full  in  view,  with 
its  deep  indentations,  and  its  bold  bluffs,  against 
which  the  Pacific  rolls  its  surge.  Far  in  the  back- 
ground rise  the  stupendous  steeps  of  the  Cordilleras, 
throwing  their  shadows  a  hundred  miles  at  sea.  On 
their  summit,  glittering  with  the  icy  hail  of  centuries, 
the  morning  star  furls  its  wing  of  flame.  Beneath 
such  a  vision,  what  is  man  ?  He  disappears,  and  his 
shadow,  as  if  ashamed  to  linger,  goes  with  him. 

The  breeze,  for  which  we  have  been  waiting  and 
watching,  has  come.  Our  studding-sails,  below  and 
aloft,  are  out  to  catch  its  first  breath.  We  are  again 
moving  up  the  coast.  Fifteen  miles  of  it  are  passed, 
but  no  headland  appears  which  we  can  identify  with 
those  designated  on  the  chart.  Seven  more,  and  still 
no  evidences  of  a  harbor.  We  begin  to  think  our 
master,  like  a  Millerite,  has  left  out  some  figure  in  his 
reckoning. 

At  last  we  discover,  upon  a  slight  swell  in  the 


PASSAGE  FROM  CAPE  HORN  TO  VALPARAISO.        189 

coast,  a  little  lighthouse,  but  no  bay,  and  nothing  that 
indicates  one.  Doubling  this  projection,  we  catch 
our  first  glimpse  of  Valparaiso,  nestled  among  the 
fissures  and  shelves  of  a  steep  ascent  of  rocks.  It 
seems  one  of  those  wild  nooks  in  which  pirates  might 
have  sought  a  perilous  home.  Taking  in  our  stud- 
ding-sails, and  hauling  up  our  courses,  we  have 
rounded  to  handsomely,  and  anchored  in  thirty-two 
fathoms. 

All  eyes  are  directed  to  the  shipping.  A  French 
man-of-war  has  already  saluted  us  ;  a  national  cour- 
tesy which  we  have  promptly  returned.  But  we  are 
looking  for  the  American  flag  ;  only  one  can  be 
seen,  and  that  is  flying  over  a  merchantman.  No 
national  vessel  holds  out  any  hope  of  letters  from 
home  by  the  Isthmus.  Our  disappointment  is  con- 
firmed by  our  consul,  who  informs  us  that  no  dis- 
patches have  been  received  from  the  United  States 
of  a  date  subsequent  to  our  departure,  except  a  copy 
of  the  President's  message,  which  was  brought  in  the 
English  mail,  and  which  was  considered  quite  bel- 
ligerent in  its  tone.  The  news  of  the  resignation  of 
the  Peel  ministry  greatly  surprises  us,  and  has  in  it, 
as  we  fancy,  quite  a  little  war-cloud.  A  national 
ship  abroad  catches  every  premonition  of  hostilities 
as  quickly  as  a  barometer  the  approach  of  a  storm. 

So,  here  we  are  at  last  in  front  of  Valparaiso,  with 
a  continent  and  an  ocean  between  us  and  our  homes  ; 


190  DECK  AND  PORT. 


another  ocean  still  to  be  traversed,  and  to  roll  us  yet 
wider  asunder  ;  and  then  this  war-cloud  on  the  hori- 
zon !  But  there  is  one  separation,  one  which  awaits 
us  all,  still  wider  than  this — the  chasm  of  the  grave. 
Over  that  no  signals  extend,  and  no  messenger-bird 
hath  winged  its  way.  I  have  walked  in  its  pale  light 
for  years,  hovering  between  the  sun  and  a  total 
eclipse. 

"  Art  is  long,  and  Time  is  fleeting, 

And  our  hearts,  though  stout  and  brave, 
Still,  like  muffled  drums,  are  beating 
Funeral  marches  to  the  grave." 


:        f 


191 


CHAPTER  VI. 

SKETCIIES  OF  VALPARAISO. 

ASPECT  OF  THE  CITY. GROUPS  ON  THE  QUAY. CHILIAN  HORSEMANSHIP.— 

THE    WOMB*. — HITS    OF    THE     NATIVES. — AMERICAN    AND     ENGLISH     SO- 
CIETY.  OPERA-HOUSE. THETERTULIA. MODE  OF  TRAVELLING. rOLICE 

OF  THE  CITY. VISITS    FROM  THE   SHORE. FEUDAL    SYSTEM. — THE    CLER- 
GY.— THE  MULE  IN  CHILI. THE  CONFESSIONAL. BURIAL  GROUND. — THE 

INDIAN  MOTHER. — POLITICAL  CONDITION   OF  CniLI. FAREWELL   TO  VAL- 
PARAISO. 

Where  Valparaiso's  cliffs  and  flowers, 

In  mirrored  wildnens,  sweep 
Their  shadows  round  the  mermaid's  bowers, 

Our  steadfast  anchors  sleep. 

Saturday,  March  7.  Valparaiso,  at  a  first  glance, 
instead  of  justifying  the  name  it  bears — the  vale  of 
Paradise — might  rather  be  called  some  outpost  of 
purgatory.  '  Its  wild  crags,  its  scorched  hills,  and 
dark  glens  might  well  be  supposed  to  lead  to  that 
intermediate  abode  of  condemned  spirits.  You  are 
puzzled  to  know  why  a  city  should  be  there.  With- 
out encroaching  on  the  sea,  there  is  hardly  room 
enough,  between  the  base  of  the  steep  acclivities  and 
the  surge,  to  set  up  a  fisherman's  hut.  The  harbor 
is  but  little  better  than  an  open  roadstead.  A  norther 
is  an  admonition  to  all  vessels  to  slip  their  cables. 

Yet  Valparaiso  is  a  city,  and  one  which,  having 


192  DECK   AND  PORT. 


once  seen,  you  will  never  forget.  It  will  stand  alone 
in  your  after-dreams  like  Jacob's  ladder.  Like  the 
rounds  in  that  airy  vision,  its  buildings  ascend,  roof 
over  roof,  till  they  seem  to  topple  in  the  sky.  One 
violent  shake  of  an  earthquake  would  precipitate  the 
whole  into  the  sea.  And  yet  these  terrible  visita- 
tions are  constantly  throwing  out  their  premonitions. 
There  is  not  a  building  whose  walls  have  not  vi- 
brated to  their  force.  There  is  not  a  rock  on  which 
they  rest,  but  is  of  volcanic  origin.  The  soaring 
peaks  of  the  Cordilleras,  which  overhang  them,  rest 
on  craters  that  may  at  any  moment  throw  them 
heaven-high.  And  yet  who  does  not  sleep  sound  in 
Valparaiso  ?  Such  is  peril,  when  it  has  become  an 
old  familiar  acquaintance. 

We  landed  from  our  boat  on  the  jetty,  which  has 
been  thrown  out  from  the  beach  to  prevent  the 
necessity  of  debarking  in  the  surf.  The  quay  was 
alive  with  boatmen,  cracking  their  jokes  over  their 
water-melons  and  coarse  bread.  A  fat  friar  was  seen 
straying  among  them,  willing  to  shrive  the  most 
wayward  for  a  large  melon.  One  fellow,  who  looked 
as  if  he  had  obliquities  enough  to  justify  some 
effacing  process,  made  light  of  the  proffered  shrift. 
He  thought  a  green  melon  would  pay. 

Near  by  sat  a  Chilano  on  a  stone,  which  swelled 
up  from  the  pavement,  tantalizing  the  strings  of  a 
guitar,  while  a  little  cloud  of  tobacco-smoke  curled 


SKETCHES  OF  VALPARAISO.  103 

up  around  the  high  cone  of  his  felt  hat.  The  only 
accompaniment  was  the  sharp  creak  of  a  file,  with 

which  a  muleteer  was  sharpening  the  rowel  of  his 
spurs,  which  resembled  a  circular  saw,  except  that 
the  teeth  were  much  longer. 

Here  a  beggar,  who  had  lost  a  leg,  hobbled  up  to 
us,  wearing  around  his  neck  a  label,  showing  that  he 
had  the  permission  of  the  police  to  solicit  alms  on 
Tuesdays  and  Saturdays.  Poor  fellow!  if  his  limb 
was  lost  in  a  good  cause,  he  ought  to  be  allowed  to 
solicit  charity  when  he  can  get  it.  And  if  it  was 
lost  even  in  a  scuffle,  it  would  not  be  in  my  heart 
to  deny  him  a  penny.  What  a  world  is  this  in 
which  we  dwell !  How  is  it  filled  with  paupers, 
spurs,  tobacco,  guitars,  water-melons,  and  absolving 
monks;  all  jangling  and  jargoning  along  together  to 
dusty  death!  What  an  incongruous  mass  the  grave 
covers! 

Sunday,  March   8.     Divine  service  on  board  ;  a 

large  attendance  of  Americans  from  the  shore.    Sub- 
is 

ject  of  the  discourse — cause  and  criminality  of  inde- 
cision in  matters  of  religion.  The  state  religion  of 
Chili  is  the  Roman  Catholic.  Protestant  forms  of 
worship  are  tolerated,  but  in  a  private  way.  The 
erection  of  churches  for  the  purpose  is  not  permitted. 
A  hall  may  be  used,  if  it  has  no  symbols  of  consecra 
tion.  Think  of  that,  my  dear  Papal  brothers  in  tho 
17 


194  DECK   AND   TORT. 


United  States,  kneeling  in  your  sumptuous  cathe- 
drals, while  your  vesper-bells  summon  from  their 
lofty  steeples  the  faithful  to  prayer.  And  you  talk  to 
us  Protestants  about  toleration !  Why,  there  is  more 
toleration  in~my  Uncle  Toby's  teapot  than  can  be 
found  in  the  whole  Papal  See. 

Before  you  assey  the  ballot-box  again,  because  the 
Bible,  without  note  or  comment,  is  permitted  in  our 
public  schools,  look  abroad  and  see  what  privileges 
you  extend  to  Protestants.  In  those  countries  where 
your  religion  and  laws  are  all  paramount,  you  do  not 
tolerate  the  consecration  of  the  humblest  chapel ; 
and  as  for  a  steeple  and  bell,  they  would  not  stand 
long  enough  to  knell  their  own  ruin.  And  yet  you 
talk  of  toleration,  and  lecture  the  whole  world  on 
Christian  charity  !  The  language  of  forbearance  and 
fraternal  love  melts  from  your  lips  softly  as  dew 
on  the  flowers  of  Hermon.  One  would  think,  from 
your  professions,  Protestants  must  have  a  perfect 
elysium  in  your  lands.  But  somehow  it  strangely 
happens  that'  they  are  disqualified  for  holding  any 
office  of  civil  trust ;  and  are  denied  even  a  consecra- 
ted place  of  worship.  They  are  fortunate  if  allowed 
the  sanctity  of  a  grave. 

In  Chili,  intolerance  flows  pui'ely  from  the  man- 
dates of  the  Papal  hierarchy.  Legislators,  as  a  body, 
are  well  disposed,  but  they  cannot  carry  their  liberal 
measures  without  putting  the  stability  of  their  civil 


SKETCHES  OF  VALPARAISO.  105 

institutions  in  peril.  An  act  of  religious  toleration 
would  be  followed  by  ecclesiastical  denunciations 
and  appeals  to  the  passions  of  the  mass,  which  would 
result  in  revolution  and  blood.  Come  here,  my  bish- 
op of  New  York,  with  your  smooth  doctrines  about 
the  rights  of  conscience,  and  talk  a  little  to  your 
brother  bishops  in  this  quarter.  If  these  doctrines 
are  good  when  proclaimed  to  American  Protestants, 
let  us  see  how  they  will  sound  in  the  ears  of  Chilian 
Catholics.  Do  a  few  leagues  of  salt  water  destroy 
their  force  and  propriety  ?  Do  they  cease  to  be  or- 
thodox the  moment  they  leave  a  Protestant  shore  and 
enter  a  Papal  domain  ? 

Come,  my  dear  bishop,  set  down  here  in  Chili  with 
me,  and  let  us  talk  together  a  little.  You  tell  us  the 
rights  of  the  human  conscience  are  sacred.  What 
rights  of  conscience  have  Protestants  in  Chili — or 
even  in  Rome  ?  You  go  there  once  in  three  years 
to  report  in  person  to  the  holy  Father,  you  see 
Protestants  filing  oft* on  the  Sabbath  through  a  narrow, 
dirty  street,  to  a  little,  obscure  chapel,  without  steeple 
or  bell,  where  they  may  worship,  if  they  won't  speak 
above  a  whisper.  And  then  you  return  to  New 
York  and  talk  to  its  corporation  about  the  sacred 
rights  of  conscience!  Your  toleration,  my  dear 
bishop,  is  much  like  the  Yankee  hunter's  division  of 
game  with  his  Indian  companion — all  turkey  on  one 
side  and  all  buzzard  on  the  other. 


196 


DECK  AND  TORT. 


Monday,  March  0.  I  encountered,  in  my  ram- 
bles to-day,  a  specimen  of  Chilian  horsemanship. 
The  costume  of  the  rider  was  in  wild  harmony  with 
his  occupation.  His  hat  rose  in  a  high  cone,  like 
that  of  a  whirling  dervish  in  Turkey.  His  poncho, 
resembling  a  large  shawl,  fell  in  careless  folds  around 
his  person.  His  gaiters  rose  to  the  knee ;  his  heels 
were  armed  with  a  huge  pair  of  silver-mounted  spurs, 
while  a  brace  of  pistols  peered  from  the  holster  of  his 
saddle-bow.     He  was  mounted  on  a  powerful  animal, 


impatient  of  the  bit,  and  sure  of  foot  as  the  moun- 
tain roe.  The  strong  muscles  betrayed  their  swell- 
ing lines  in  his  limbs ;  the  dilating  nostril  was  full  of 
panting  force,  while  his  arching  neck  seemed  clothed 
with  thunder.  He  was  such  a  steed  as  you  would 
choose  for  that  last  decisive  charge,  in  which  a  Wa- 
terloo is  to  be  won  or  lost. 


SKETCHES  OF  VALPARAISO.  107 

His  rider  knew  him  well  and  gave  him  the  rein  ; 
on  he  dashed,  over  hill  and  vale,  with  the  speed  of 
the  wind.  Now  shaking  the  topling  crags  with  his 
iron  hoof,  now  plunging  down  the  steep  ravine,  now 
leaping,  with  frightful  force,  the  sudden  chasm ; 
never  missing  his  foothold,  never  throwing  his  rider. 
Both  were  safe  where  the  neck  of  neither  seemed 
w«nth  a  farthing.  I  have  seen  the  Tartar  ride  at 
Constantinople,'  and  witnessed,  with  silent  admira- 
tion, the  Grand  Sultan's  horsemanship,  but  he  is 
outdone  by  the  Chilano. 

A  company  of  circus-riders,  from  Europe,  came 
here  a  few  years  since  to  astonish  the  Chilians.  But 
they  soon  found  they  had  brought  their  ware  to  a 
wrong  market.  The  Chilanos  took  the  business  out 
of  their  hands  ;  and  so  far  outdid  them  that  they  sud- 
denly disappeared,  and  have  not  been  heard  of  in 
*.hese  parts  since.  It  was  like  a  buffalo  entering  a 
herd  of  deer  to  astonish  them  with  his  fleetness,  or 
like  a  bull  attempting  a  race  with  one  of  Baldwin"'s 
locomotives. 

The  Chilian  women  betray  their  Spanish  bl<>, ><!. 
It  is  seen  in  their  stately  forms,  their  firm  elastic 
step,  their  nut-brown  complexion,  their  large  black 
eyes,  and  their  earnestness  of  manner,  which  is  full 
of  silent,  significant  force.     They  wear  their  hair  in 

tWO  plaits,  which  arc  sometimes  coiled  into  a   turban 
and  interlaced  with  flowers,  and  at  others  flows  from 

17* 


198  DECK   AND  PORT. 


a  slight  fillet,  quite  down  to  the  heel.  They  use  no 
stays  ;  the  tide  of  nature  ebbs  and  flows  without 
constraint.  The  rich  shawl  which  covers  the  neck 
and  shoulders,  neglects  at  times  its  occupation,  and 
the  silk  stocking  forgets  now  and  then  that  it  has 
taken  the  veil. 

They  are  fond  of  attentions,  and  will  much  sooner 
excuse  a  liberty,  which  flows  from  admiration,  than 
a  neglect,  which  results  from  indifference  ;  still  they 
are  not  considered  as  very  exacting.  What  they 
want  is  the  homage  of  the  heart.  Civility  that  has 
no  soul  in  it,  they  consider  a  mockery.  Love  is 
consequently  with  them  a  passion.  As  daughters, 
they  are  wild  and  thoughtless  ;  as  mothers,  fond  of 
their  children  and  attached  to  their  homes.  The 
most  sober  flower  will  often  blossom  from  the  bud 
that  has  danced  the  most  lightly  in  the  sunbeam. 

Tuesday,  March  10.  I  encountered  to-day  in  the 
environs  of  Valparaiso,  a  long  string  of  donkeys, 
laden  with  vegetables  and  fruit  from  Quilota,  some 
forty  miles  distant.  The  little  hardy  fellows  were 
plodding  along  in  single  file,  covered  up  under  their 
huge  panniers,  and  turning  this  way  or  that  to  the 
cry  of  their  driver,  who  brought  up  the  rear.  I 
never  could  encounter  one  of  these  creatures  with- 
out a  sentiment  of  pity  and  even  respect.  He  seems 
as  one  doomed  to  drudgery,  merely  because  nature 


SKETCHES   OF  VALPARAISO.  199 

has  wronged  him  in  making  him  up.  And  then  his 
patience — it  is  a  model.  He  has  long  ears  it  is  true, 
but  then  he  never,  like  those  who  consider  them- 
selves his  betters,  tries  to  conceal  them.  lie  is  an 
honest  ass ! 

The  markets  vof  Valparaiso  are  supplied  from  val- 
leys in  the  interior.  The  grounds  in  the  immediate 
neighborhood  are,  for  many  months  in  the  year, 
parched  up  with  drouth.  Large  tracts  of  land,  well 
suited  to  the  harrow,  are  herbless  from  want  of 
means  to  irrigate  them.  Springs  have  been  hunted, 
and  rocks  bored  almost  half-way  to  the  earth's  cen- 
tre, but  in  vain.  Even  the  monks  have  tried  their 
miraculous  charms,  but  nature's  great  Nile  obeys  no 
such  incantations.  Their  fleece,  unlike  that  of  Gid- 
eon, remained  dry.  No  snow  falls  on  these  vallies, 
and  no  rain,  except  in  the  three  winter  months. 
The  earth  becomes  baked  and  broken  into  deep 
fissures.  When  the  winds  are  abroad  the  dust  is 
driven  over  it  in  clouds  thick  enough  to  bury  a 
Gipsy  encampment. 

The  huts  of  the  native  peasantry  are  built  of  reeds, 
plastered  with  mud  and  thatched  with  straw.  They 
have  seldom  more  than  one  room,  and  are  generally 
without  a  floor.  Here  the  inmates  sit,  sleep,  and 
work  in  wigwam-life.  They  seldom  look  beyond 
their  present  wants.  Their  industry  ebbs  or  tlnw.N 
as  plenty  or  penury  prevail.     Out  of  these  murky 


200  DECK   AND  TORT. 


cabins  beauty  sometimes  emerges  in  a  combination 
of  charms  that  might  stir  the  chisel  of  a  Praxiteles. 

The  females  are  generally  pictures  of  health  and 
animation.  Their  diet  is  coarse  bread  and  fruit. 
They  know  nothing  of  the  luxuries  of  the  table,  and 
seem  to  care  as  little.  They  are  fond  of  music  and 
dancing,  and  throw  an  energy  into  their  motions 
which  would  astonish  even  a  Shaker.  The  qua- 
drille has  not  sufficient  action  in  it.  They  prefer 
the  fandango.  The  old  are  grouped  around  the 
broad  circle  in  which  the  young  couple  spring  to  the 
vibrations  of  the  guitar  or  violin.  The  short  dress 
of  the  female,  and  the  prurient  motions  of  both,  are 
at  war  with  all  our  sentiments  of  propriety.  Still, 
unless  nature  libel  herself,  the  mothers  who  witness 
these  exhibitions  in  their  daughters,  must  be  influ- 
enced more  by  a  false  taste  than  a  lubricity  of  dispo- 
sition. This  is  as  true  of  savage  as  civilized  life — of 
the  Chilian  mother  as  the  Roman  matron.  Nature 
has  thrown  her  most  beautiful  iris  in  a  mother's  look 
over  the  wave  which  flows  from  the  depths  of  a 
daughter's  unsullied  soul. 

Wednesday,  March  11.  The  features  of  Valpa- 
raiso, which  strike  the  stranger  with  the  greatest 
force,  are  perhaps  the  elegant  articles  of  ornament 
which  are  presented  in  the  fancy  shops.  They  seem 
as  much  out  of  place  here  as  a  jewel  in  a  swine's 


SKETCHES  OF  VALPARAISO.  201 

snout.  And  yet  they  are  not  out  of  place  ;  for  higher 
forms  of  fashionable  life  are  seldom  encountered. 
Those  little  cottages,  which  gleam  from  the  toppling 
crags,  are  garnished  with  furniture  on  which  the 
Parisian  artist  has  exhausted  his  skill.  From  the 
balcony  rolls  out  upon  the  wind  the  most  exquisite 
music  of  harp  and  voice.  Such  strains  from  amid 
such  a  savage  scene!  It  is  like  Proserpine,  crossing 
the  gloomy  Styx,  crowned  with  the  flowers  of  para- 
dise: 

The  English  and  Americans  here  are  singularly 
free  from  those  rivalries  and  jealousies,  which  are  the 
besetting  sin  of  foreign  residents.  They  flow  to- 
gether with  a  congeniality  of  spirit,  which  is  the 
source  of  a  thousand  pleasures  to  them  as  well  as  the 
stranger.  Their  society  is  the  all-redeeming  charm 
of  Valparaiso.  Their  hospitality  is  open  as  the  day, 
and  warm  as  their  soft  clime.  You  forget  in  their 
company  the  rude  rocks  and  barren  hills  around  you. 
The  earth  without  may  be  covered  with  brambles, 
but  you  feel  for  the  time  in  a  sort  of  Eden  whose 
flowers  have  escaped  the  primal  malediction.  I  do 
not  wonder  that  this  is  the  favorite  port  with  the 
officers  of  the  Pacific  squadron.  They  always  leave 
it  with  regret,  and  cherish  for  it  the  most  affectionate 
remembrance. 

Wh<»  would  expeel  to  find  among  these  wild  cliffs 
an  opera  house,  vying,  in  the  elegance  of  its  decora- 


202  DECK  AND  PORT. 


tions  and  the  richness  of  its  music,  with  some  of  the 
most  liberally  endowed  establishments  in  Europe? 
yet  such  is  the  fact.  Of  its  merits  I  speak  from  the 
representations  of  others,  as  I  have  not  myself  been 
within  its  precincts.  I  declined  going,  not  from  an 
apprehension  of  moral  taint,  conducted  as  the  opera 
is  here,  but  from  motives  of  expediency.  I  would 
not  indulge  even  in  an  innocent  amusement,  that 
had  assumed  a  doubtful  shape  in  the  imaginations  of 
others.  But  still  I  would  not  be  a  slave  to  mere 
whims,  which  have  no  reasonableness  and  force.  I 
admire  an  enlightened,  sober,  independence  of  opin- 
ion and  action. 

I  believe  the  opera,  if  introduced  thoroughly  into 
the  United  States,  if  performed  in  suitable  edifices, 
and  under  suitable  restrictions,  would  promote,  indi- 
rectly at  least,  the  cause  of  morals  and  good  taste. 
It  would  attract  to  it  a  thousand  young  men,  who 
now  spend  their  evenings  in  grog-shops  and  at  ga- 
ming-tables. The  opera  has  its  evils,  but  what  human 
institution  has  not.  If  every  thing  is  to  be  de- 
nounced which  is  not  an  unmixed  good,  then  every 
thing  emanating  from  man  must  go  by  the  board. 
People  will  have  amusements,  it  is  a  law  of  their  so- 
cial being,  and  it  is  your  duty  as  a  friend  to  virtue  to 
look  out  and  encourage  the  most  innocent.  You 
may  deride  this  counsel  and  persevere  in  trying  to 
put  human  nature  into  a  straight  jacket ;  but  you 


SKETCHES   OF  VALPARAISO.  203 

will  never  succeed,  and  if  you  could,  you  would  find 
that  jacket  any  thing  but  a  garment  of  righteousness. 

Thursday,  March  12.  I  accompanied  last  even- 
ing several  of  my  wardroom  companions  to  a  Chilian 
tertulia.  A  broad  flight  of  stairs  took  us  to  a  large 
and  brilliantly  lighted  saloon,  where  we  were  met  by 
the  lady  of  the  mansion  who  gave  us  her  hand,  and 
welcomed  us  to  Valparaiso.  It  would  have  been  a 
little  embarrassing  to  encounter  the  flash  of  so  many 
eyes,  but  for  the  ease  and  tact  of  our  accomplished 
hostess.  Instead  of  taking  us  around  the  saloon  and 
introducing  us,  amid  a  general  suspension  of  conver- 
sation, to  the  company,  which  would  have  embar- 
rassed all  parties,  she  went  to  talking  with  us,  and  in 
a  few  minutes  managed  to  introduce  us  to  several 
ladies,  as  unceremoniously  as  if  there  had  been  no 
design  in  it.  This  artless  tact  continued  till  we 
were  introduced  to  every  lady  and  gentleman  present 

All  were  at  ease  and  full  of  talk,  though  some  of 
us  had  but  a  limited  range  of  Spanish  at  our  com- 
mand. But  a  great  deal  of  conversation  may  be 
made  out  of  a  few  words,  when  the  heart  is  glad. 
The  ladies  never  corrected  the  wrong  word,  and 
affected  to  understand  it  just  as  well  as  if  it  had  been 
the  right  one.  Some  of  them  attempted  English 
with  the  amiable  purpose,  no  doubt,  of  relieving  our 
blunders  by  making  as  many  of  their  own. 


204  DECK  AND  PORT. 


"'Tis  pleasing  to  be  schooled  in  a  strange  tongue 

By  female  lips  and  eyes     *     *     * 
They  smile  so  when  one's  right,  and  when  one's  wrong 
They  smile  still  more." 

I  asked  one  of  the  ladies  if  she  would  gratify  us 
with  a  piece  of  music  ;  she  instantly  took  my  arm  to 
the  piano,  beckoned  her  sister  to  her  side,  and  gave 
us  a  duett  which  called  back  my  recollections  of 
poor  Malibran.  What  melodies  were  quenched  for 
ever  when  that  sweet  singer  died.  Her  strain  still 
lingers  in  the  hearts  of  thousands,  but  where  is  she ! 
As  a  bird  from  its  bower,  as  a  rainbow  from  its 
cloud,  she  has  passed  away.  Spring  will  call  back 
its  little  minstrels,  and  the  summer  sun  rebuild  its 
airy  arch.  But  she,  who  charmed  the  world,  will 
come  back  no  more.  Her  melodious  lips  are  sealed 
in  silence,  and  the  shadow  of  death  is  on  her  eye- 
lids. 

'  Leaves  have  their  time  to  fall, 

♦ 
And  flowers  to  wither  at  the  north- wind's  breath, 

And  stars  to  set — but  all, 

Thou  hast  all  seasons  for  thine  own,  0  death !" 

But  to  return  to  the  tertulia.  The  costume  of  the 
ladies  differed  but  little  from  what  you  meet  with  at 
evening  parties  in  the  United  States.  The  haii, 
which  betrayed  great  care  in  its  arrangement,  was 
ornamented  with  natural  flowers.  The  dress,  gener- 
ally of  a  light  airy  material,  had  short  sleeves,  rather 


SKETCHES  OF  VALPARAISO.  205 

low  in  the  neck,  with  a  short,  full  skirt.  The  reason 
assigned  for  this  is,  that  the  wearer  may  be  less  em- 
barrassed  in  dancing,   but,  perhaps,  the   pride  of  a 

well-turned  ankle  is  an  additional  motive.     The  gen- 
es 

tlemen  were  more  sedate  than  the  ladies,  but  their 
conversation  had  not  half  the  versatility.  At  twelve 
o'clock  the  tertulia  broke  up.  The  lady  of  the  house 
gave  us  her  hand  at  parting  with  a  henna  noche. 

Friday,  March  13.  Went  on  shore  to-day  to  take 
a  ride.  This  has  to  be  done  either  on  the  saddle,  or 
in  a  vehicle  resembling  our  chaise,  but  of  much  ruder 
construction.  The  latter  is  preferred  for  long  dis- 
tances. One  horse  trots  within  the  shafts,  another  at 
his  left,  on  which  the  postillion  is  mounted,  while 
half  a  dozen  others  accompany  the  vehicle  to  act  as 
relays.  If  these  give  out,  the  lasso  is  resorted  to,  and 
some  half-wild  horse,  who  a  few  moments  before 
snuffed  the  wind  in  freedom,  is  within  the  traces. 
The  postillion  seldom  troubles  himself  with  the  ques- 
tion whether  the  animal  has  ever  been  thoroughly 
broken  to  the  harness.  The  wilder,  the  more  speed, 
and  therefore  all  the  better  for  his  purpose.  Il<-  is 
master  of  his  business,  and  seemingly  of  every  thing 
in  nature  that  can  conduce  to  its  success.  His 
driving  is  like  that  of  Jehu.  You  expect  every 
moment  the  old  quill-wheel,  in  which  you  are  em- 
Darked,  will  fly  into  a  thousand  pieces.     But  like  the 

18 


206  DECK   AND  PORT. 


hurdle  of  the  doomed,  it  still  holds  together,  hurrying 
you,  if  not  to  the  gallows,  to  the  grave. 

If  you  take  to  the  saddle  you  will  probably  find 
your  stirrups  of  wood,  resembling  in  shape  and  size 
the  large  beetle  with  which  a  New-England  farmer 
splits  his  rails.  Their  weight  is  seemingly  relieved 
by  grotesque  carving ;  in  the  side  is  a  sharp  excava- 
tion, sufficiently  deep  to  admit  one-third  of  the  foot. 
The  saddle  is  made  of  raw  hide,  and  a  frame  which 
an  Indian's  hatchet  might  have  shaped.  It  rises  up 
before  and  behind  like  a  well-horned  half-moon. 
The  bridle  has  one  recommendation,  a  tremendous 
bit.  But  with  all  this  you  are  on  a  horse,  wild  as  he 
may  be,  that  is  sure  of  foot.  You  can  no  more  get 
a  stumble  out  of  him,  were  you  so  disposed,  than  Lu- 
cifer could  a  defection  from  duty  out  of  Abdiel,  or  a 
whig  a  bank-vote  out  of  a  democrat. 

The  police  of  Valparaiso,  which  once  seldom  pro- 
tected the  innocent,  or  punished  the  guilty,  is  now 
unrivalled  in  efficiency.  Its  vigilance  reaches  your 
person  and  property  through  every  hour  of  the  day 
and  night.  You  are  safe  even  in  spite  of  your  own 
negligence.  If,  for  instance,  you  leave  your  shop 
with  the  window  unbolted,  you  will  find  the  next 
morning  a  padlock  on  it,  and  one  which  you  cannot 
remove  without  paying  a  fine  of  three  dollars.  If 
you  dine  out,  tarry  late  at  the  wine,  get  tipsy,  and 
can't  find  your  way  home,  a  watchman  picks  you  up, 


SKETCHES  OF  VALPARAISO.  207 

puts  you  into  a  chaise,  finds  out  by  some  means 
where  you  live,  takes  you  to  your  door,  and  delivers 
you  to  your  waiting  wife,  with  the  good-humored  re- 
mark that  you  are  a  little  indisposed.  What  a  capi- 
tal arrangement  for  those  who  have  more  wine  than 
wit  in  them! 

If  you  wake  up  in  the  night,  find  one  of  your 
family  sick,  and  want  a  physician,  you  have  only  to 
hand  his  name  to  the  watchman  near  your  door,  who 
passes  it  to  another,  and  he  to  another  still,  till  it 
reaches  its  destination,  and  you  soon  have  the  phy- 
sician at  your  side.  His  prescription  must  perhaps 
be  taken  to  an  apothecary ;  it  is  handed  to  the 
watch,  passed  on,  and  in  a  few  minutes  back  comes 
the  medicament  required.  What  bachelor  might 
not  venture  to  get  married  in  Valparaiso  ? 

Saturday,  March  14.  The  governor  of  Valpa- 
raiso, with  his  suite,  visited  our  ship  this  morning. 
He  is  a  man  of  some  sixty  years  of  age,  with  no  very 
brilliant  qualities,  but  possesses  sound  sense.  lie 
expressed  himself  delighted  with  our  frigate,  exam- 
ined every  part  of  her,  and  received,  as  he  went  over 
her  side,  the  salute  due  to  his  rank. 

Our  ship  has  been  the  constant  scene  of  visits  from 
the  Chilians.  A  party  has  just  left  us  who  came  all 
the  way  from  Santiago.  They  make  themselves 
quite  at  home  on  our  decks.     When  the  band  strikes 


208  DECK  AND  PORT. 


up,  they  call  for  a  waltz,  or  fandango,  and  commence 
dancing  with  just  as  much  freedom  as  if  they  were  on 
their  own  village  green,  beneath  the  light  of  the  moon. 
On  leaving  they  urge  us  to  come  and  see  them,  prom- 
ising us  horses  to  ride,  music,  and  the  smiles  of  a 
thousand  glad  eyes.  Their  invitations  are  full  of 
sincerity  and  heart ;  and  for  my  own  part  I  would 
much  sooner  avail  myself  of  them,  than  the  august 
condescension  which  should  open  to  me  the  palace 
of  a  king. 

The  inequalities  of  the  feudal  system,  introduced 
from  old  Spain,  still  survive  in  Chili.  The  lands  are 
owned  by  the  privileged  few,  and  their  succession 
secured  by  the  right  of  entail.  An  effort  was  made 
a  few  years  since  to  break  up  this  system,  and  dis- 
tribute the  lands  among  the  heirs,  without  reference 
to  any  advantages  of  primogeniture.  But  the  great 
number  of  illegitimate  children,  who  came  in  and 
urged  their  claims,  rendered  the  measure  a  danger- 
ous experiment.  It  was  waived  for  the  time  ;  but 
unless  republicanism  here  be  a  farce,  it  will  come 
back  again  with  augmented  force.  Freedom  and 
equality  are  twin-born  :  they  breathe  the  same  air, 
and  share  the  same  destiny.  Besides,  there  is  no 
good  reason  why  a  natural  child  should  not  share  in 
his  father's  estates.  It  is  a  hard  case,  indeed,  if  he 
must  be  made  a  beggar,  merely  because  his  parents 
have  made  him  a  child  of  sin.     Let  those  who  thus 


SKETCHES  OF  VALPARAISO.  209 

err  pay  the  penalty.  They  have  planted  the  tree, 
and  now  let  them  partake  its  fruit, — apples  of  Sodom 
though  they  be. 

The  elective  franchise  involves  no  property  quali- 
fication in  Chili.  All  go  to  the  ballot-box ;  but  few, 
however,  deposite  thoroughly  independent  votes. 
One  portion  is  overawed  by  the  will  of  their  land- 
lords, another  by  the  will  of  their  priests.  The  ec- 
clesiastics have  every  thing  at  issue  in  the  stability 
of  the  existing  order  of  things.  A  revolution  would 
result  in  a  triumph  of  the  Liberals,  and  a  suppression 
of  all  monastic  institutions.  Even  the  connection 
of  the  church  with  the  state  could  not  long  survive. 
The  papal  hierarchy  would  have  to  provide  for  its 
maintenance  through  voluntary  contributions. 

The  ecclesiastics  therefore  exert  all  the  influence 
which  their  position  gives  them,  to  uphold  the  pres- 
ent government.  They  look  to  each  man's  vote,  and 
follow  it  with  a  blessing  or  malediction,  which  throws 
its  ominous  shadow  beyond  this  life.  This  ecclesi- 
astical power  is  the  most  fearful  feature  in  the  pit «- 
ent  condition  of  the  Chilians.  Instead  of  being  a 
wall  of  defence,  it  is  a  wide  magazine,  laid  under  its 
foundations,  with  a  train  reaching  to  Home.  One 
spark  from  the  Vatican,  and  Chili  sinks  in  (lame  and 
blood  ! 

Sunday,  March  15.     We  had   to-day  at  our  scr- 
18* 


210  DECK   AND  PORT. 


vice  a  very  large  attendance  from  the  shore.  The 
weather  was  remarkably  fine  ;  the  awning  was 
spread,  and  we  assembled  on  the  spar-deck.  Alter 
prayers,  we  sung  a  hymn  in  Hamburg,  with  the  band 
for  an  orchestra.  The  sermon  turned  on  the  condi- 
tion of  the  soul  out  of  Christ :  its  guilt,  its  wretched- 
ness, its  ruin.  Plain  and  practical  sermons  are  the 
only  ones  that  do  much  good.  When  a  preacher 
forgets  the  simplicity  and  meekness  of  his  office,  and 
throws  himself,  though  in  a  blaze  of  eloquence,  be- 
tween his  hearers  and  the  Cross,  he  is  in  a  miserably 
false  position.  He  may  win  perishing  laurels  to  his 
fame,  but  not  immortal  souls  to  Christ. 

The  clergy  in  Chili  exert,  through  the  confessional, 
an  influence  which  reaches  the  most  private  transac- 
tions of  life.  Every  communicant  is  required  to 
confess  at  least  once  a  year.  A  refusal  to  do  it  is 
followed  by  the  severest  pains  and  penalties  which 
the  church  can  inflict.  Some  two  years  since,  a 
daughter  of  one  of  the  most  prominent  members  of 
the  legislature  of  Chili  was  grossly  insulted  at  the 
confessional.  She  told  her  mother,  who,  in  grief  and 
consternation,  related  the  circumstance  to  her  father. 
He  excused  her  from  going  again  to  the  confessional. 
The  year  rolled  round,  and  she  was  summoned  to  a 
compliance  ;  the  father  peremptorily  refused  his  as- 
sent. Three  of  the  inferior  officers  of  the  church 
were  dispatched  to  bring  her  by  force.     Her  father 


SKETCHES  OF   VALPARAISO.  211 

planted  himself,  armed,  on  the  door-sill  of  his  house, 
and  told  them  if  they  entered  it  would  be  at  their 
peril.  They  retired  and  reported  their  ill-success  to 
their  superior.  The  next  Sabbath  she  was  publicly 
excommunicated,  and  her  candle  at  the  altar  blown 
out,  to  signify  that  her  hope  of  heaven  was  extin- 
guished. 

The  father,  indignant  at  the  attempt  to  undermine 
the  virtue  of  his  daughter,  and  the  cruel  injustice 
done  her  in  the  act  of  excommunication,  introduced 
a  bill  into  the  national  legislature  for  abolishing  en- 
tirely  the  confessional.  It  produced  the  most  intense 
excitement;  the  pulpits  of  Chili  rang  with  denuncia- 
tion ;  the  archbishop  dispatched  a  messenger  to 
Rome  for  the  Pope's  anathema.  Many  husbands 
and  fathers,  whose  wives  and  daughters  had  been  in- 
sulted at  the  confessional,  and  who  from  motives  of 
prudence  had  remained  silent,  now  began  to  speak 
out.  But  a  repugnance  to  innovation  in  ecclesiasti- 
cal affairs,  and  the  combined  influence  of  the  clergy 
prevailed,  and  the  contemplated  law  was  defeated. 
But  it  still  survives  in  the  breast  of  its  projector,  and 
will  yet  speak  out  in  thunder-tones. 

Instead  of  attacking  the  confessional,  the  domestic 
evils  which  it  inflicts  would  perhaps  be  more  thor- 
oughly remedied  by  abolishing  the  coerced  celibacy 
of  the  clergy.  This  is  the  prime  source  of  those  im- 
moralities which  have  sapped  virtue  and  overthrown 


212  DECK   AND  PORT. 


the  peace  of  families.  Its  abolition  would  contribute 
alike  to  the  virtue  of  the  ecclesiastic,  and  the  safety 
of  the  communicant.  The  best-informed  writers  on 
Chili,  those  whose  observation  has  been  the  most 
thorough,  agree  in  the  fact  that  many  of  the  clergy 
live  in  a  state  of  the  most  shameful  profligacy.  These 
disclosures  force  upon  you  the  painful  conviction, 
that  their  illegitimate  offspring  are  found  in  every 
circle  in  the  community,  and  fill  every  grade  of  ec- 
clesiastical preferment.  Abolish,  then,  the  forced 
celibacy  of  the  clergy.  Blot  out  at  once  and  forever 
this  apology  for  crime.  Human  nature  is  sufficiently 
slippery  even  when  it  has  no  excuse  for  its  lapses. 
In  saying  this,  I  intend  no  sectarian  reproach.  I 
would  not  confide  to  any  religious  persuasion  the 
consequences  of  a  forced  law  of  celibacy.  Our  safe- 
ty lies  not  only  in  an  upright  conscience,  but  in  free- 
dom from  temptation. 

Monday,  March  16.  I  have  been  passing  an 
agreeable  evening  in  the  family  of  Mr.  Hobson,  our 
former  consul  at  this  port.  The  amenity  and  intelli- 
gence of  Mrs.  H.  lend  an  unfailing  charm  to  her 
conversation.  Her  daughters  have  been  educated 
with  great  care,  and  are  adorned  with  many  intellec- 
tual and  social  accomplishments.  It  is  singular  what 
encounters  will  occur  in  one's  travels.  I  met  here  a 
lady  whom  I  last  saw  in  the  Naval  Asylum  at  Phila- 


SKETCHES  OF  VALPARAISO.  213 

delphia,  and  who  had  come  out  there  to  hear  one  of 
my  poor  sermons.  This  was  a  year  since.  She  is 
now  here,  and  the  wife  of  one  of  the  most  enterpri- 
sing merchants  in  Valparaiso. 

I  dined  to-day  with  William  Ward,  Esq.,  an  Ameri- 
can gentleman,  who  is  the  senior  partner  in  one  of 
the  largest  mercantile  houses  here.  His  ample 
mansion  and  costly  furniture  are  in  keeping  with  the 
taste  and  liberality  displayed  at  his  table.  I  met 
there  Mr.  Barton,  another  American  gentleman,  who 
is  engaged  in  surveying  the  route  of  a  contemplated 
railroad  between  Valparaiso  and  Santiago.  I  passed 
the  morning  with  the  Rev.  Mr.  Trumbull,  from  the 
United  States.  He  is  out  here  under  the  patronage  of 
the  Foreign  Evangelical  Society.  His  labors  as  yet 
have  been  confined  mostly  to  seamen ;  but  he  has  every 
prospect  of  having  within  a  short  time  a  congregation 
on  land.  Mr.  Dorr,  our  consul,  has,  with  a  praise- 
worthy spirit,  interested  himself  in  the  objects  of  his 
mission  ;  and  other  Americans  have  pledged  their 
aid.  Such  are  the  stars  of  hope  which  are  yet  to 
throw  their  rays  through  the  extremities  of  Chili. 

I  visited  this  afternoon  the  Protestant  burial-ground, 
which  occupies  a  portion  of  one  of  the  hills  which 
overlook  our  anchorage.  The  situation  has  been 
selected  with  good  judgment,  and  the  ground  evinces 
taste  and  propriety  in  the  arrangement.  Here  rest 
many  sailors  far  away  from  their  native  shores.     A 


214  DECK   AND  PORT. 


humble  slab,  erected  by  their  messmates,  gives  you 
their  names  and  that  of  the  ship  to  which  they  were 
attached  ;  and  sometimes  a  nautical  epitaph,  like  the 
following : 

"  Here  lies  the  rigging,  spars,  and  hull 
Of  sailing-master  David  Mull." 

This  to  a  landsman  seems  trifling  with  our  poor 
mortality ;  not  so  to  the  sailor.  His  technicalities  have 
with  him  a  meaning  and  a  force  which,  in  his  judg- 
ment, more  than  sanction  their  use  on  the  most 
grave  and  melancholy  occasions.  He  would  pray 
in  this  dialect  even  were  life's  taper  flickering  in  the 
socket,  or  his  soul  trembling  on  the  verge  of  despair. 

In  the  Catholic  burial-ground,  which  adjoins  the 
Protestant,  stands  the  beautiful  monument  of  Por- 
tales.  The  genius  of  History  is  recording  his  glorious 
deeds,  Grief  lamenting  his  early  doom,  and  Hope 
pointing  to  a  fruition  in  the  skies.  Near  this  monu* 
ment  I  encountered  a  youthful  mother  in  weeds, 
leading  her  little  orphan  boy.  She  carried  a  bunch 
of  flowers  in  her  hand,  and  as  she  came  near  a  new- 
made  grave,  kneeled  down  at  its  head,  and  planted 
them  there.  Her  child  kissed  them,  but  when  she 
attempted  it  her  silent  tears  fell  fast  on  their  tender 
leaves.  A  bird  lit  on  the  tree,  which  cast  its 
shadows  on  the  grave,  and  poured  a  wild  sweet 
strain  as  if  to  wean  the  mourner  from  her  grief;  but 


SKETCHES  OF  VALPARAISO.  215 

she  heeded  it  not.  Her  child  turned  and  listened ; 
her  eye  fell  on  his ;  she  heard  the  bird.  Nature 
triumphs  over  bereavements  through  those  we  love 
and  who  still  survive. 

Tuesday,  March  17.  The  Indian  mother  still  ad- 
heres to  the  primitive  method  of  carrying  her  child. 
Instead  of  supporting  it  in  her  arms,  with  the  un 
healthful  inclination  of  person  which  a  burden  there 
will  always  induce,  she  tosses  it  on  her  back,  into  the 
bunt  of  her  shawl,  and  walks  off' erect  as  the  Indian's 
tree,  which  stood  up  so  straight  it  leaned  backward. 


When  hunger  overtakes  it  she  will  feel  a  slight  pull 
on  one  of  the  long  braids  in  which  her  hair  falls  over 
its  form  ;  and  when  she  takes  it  out  of  this  travelling 
cradle  to  nurse  it,  there  is  something  new  and  fresh 
in  its  first  look  :  true,  it  has  not  been  out  of  her  sight 


216  DECK   AND  PORT. 


for  more  than  an  hour,  but  this  with  a  mother  is  a 
lone  time.  But  her  heart  is  now  running  over  with 
happiness, 

So  deep  and  vital  is  the  joy 

That  thrills  a  mother's  breast, 
Clasping  her  infant,  blue-eyed  boy 

From  out  his  cradled  rest. 

Many  attempts  have  been  made  to  introduce  the 
Bible  into  Chili.  Our  countryman,  Mr.  Wheelwright, 
who  now  has  a  flourishing  school  in  Valparaiso,  suc- 
ceeded in  distributing  a  number  of  copies  in  the 
Spanish  language  among  the  people  of  Quillota.  But 
the  priests  forbade  their  being  read,  and  doomed  them 
to  the  flames.  They  were  brought  out  and  burnt  in 
presence  of  the  assembled  multitude.  They  were 
without  note  or  comment,  and  left  the  sectarian  big- 
otry, that  decreed  the  sacrilegious  act,  without  an 
apology.  What  would  my  venerable  friend,  Bishop 
Hughes,  say  were  the  Protestants  of  New  York  to 
collect  his  Douay  Bibles  and  burn  them  m  the  Park  ? 
Would  that,  my  dear  Bishop,  be  freedom  of  con- 
science ? 

The  population  of  Chili  is  estimated  at  about  a  mil- 
lion and  a  half.  Her  commerce  is  steadily  on  the 
increase.  Her  silver  and  copper  mines  richly  repay 
the  labor  bestowed  in  working  them.  Her  southern 
plains  yield  an  abundance  of  the  finest  wheat.     Her 


SKETCHES  OF  VALPARAISO.  217 

people  in  the  mass  are  hardy,  frugal,  and  ardent  lov- 
ers of  freedom.  The  course  of  education,  under  her 
new  constitution,  is  receiving  fresh  impulses,  and 
gradually  emerging  into  popular  favor  and  national 
importance.  Her  public  debt  amounts  to  about  ten 
millions  of  dollars,  which  is  owned  mostly  in  Eng- 
land. Her  military  establishment,  which  has  bur- 
dened her  treasury,  and  sometimes  perilled  her  peace, 
is  melting  away  under  her  civil  institutions. 

In  breaking  the  Spanish  yoke,  and  establishing  her 
independence,  she  has  had  to  pass  through  a  fiery 
ordeal.  The  virtues  that  could  achieve  so  much, 
will  yet  win  farther  triumphs.  No  nation  or  state 
ever  rose  at  once  from  vassalage  and  ignorance  to 
freedom  and  intelligence.  She  may  emerge  into  dis- 
order, but  that  will  be  more  tolerable  than  the  des- 
potism from  which  she  has  escaped.  To  meet  the 
consequences  of  a  revolution,  to  restore  order  where 
it  has  been  broken  up,  to  consolidate  the  elements  of 
national  existence,  and  settle  them  on  a  new  and  per- 
manent basis,  requires  all  the  time  which  this  republic 
has  enjoyed  since  she  proclaimed  her  independence. 
There  is  nothing  in  the  present  condition  of  (  liili 
which  should  fill  the  advocates  of  free  institutions 
with  distrust.  She  has  clouds  on  her  sky,  but  most 
of  them  oxe  skeletons  from  which  the  storm  has  long 
since  passed. 

But  I  have  no  space  for  a  disquisition  on  Chili.    A 


218 


DECK  AND  TORT. 


labored  essay  is  beyond  the  scope  and  purpose  of  this 
diary.     I  have  only  time  to  wave  my  adieu  to 

VALPARAISO. 

Sweet  Valparaiso — fare  thee  well  I 

Thy  steep  romantic  shore, 
And  toppling  crags,  where  wildly  dwell 

The  echoes,  which  thy  billows  pour 
As  o'er  the  rocks  their  anthems  swell — 

Shall  greet  my  pilgrim  steps  no  more. 
When  they  whose  tread  is  on  thy  steep, 

Have  down  to  death's  dim  chambers  gone, 
"Where  harp  and  lute  in  silence  sleep, 

Thy  sweet  sea-dirge  will  still  roll  on. 


219 


CHAPTER   VII. 

PASSAGE  FROM  VALPARAISO  TO  CALLAO. 

FLARE  UP  OF  THE  PACIFIC. — SONGS  OF  SEAMEN. SAILORS  ON  SnORE. LOSS 

OF  THE  SAMSON  OF  OUR  SHIP. THE    SETTING    SUN  AT  SEA. OUR   ASTOR- 

HOUSE  SAILOR. THE  MAD  I'OKT  OF  THE    CREW. LAND  HO  ! ASPECT  0» 

CALLAO. APPEARANCE  OF  THE  NATIVES. THE  BURIAL  LSLE. 

"Our  pennant  glitters  in  th<>  breeze, 
Our  home  is  on  the  sen : 
Where  wind  may  blow,  or  billow  flov, 

No  limits  to  the  free  : 
No  limits  to  the  free,  my  boys, 
Let  wind  and  wave  waft  on, 
The  boundless  world  of  waters  is, 
My  merry  men,  our  own." 

Wednesday,  March  18.  We  tripped  our  anchors 
this  morning  and  stood  out  to  sea  from  the  bay  of 
Valparaiso.  While  getting  under  way,  a  boal  from 
the  British  ship  Daphne  came  alongside  with  dis- 
patches for  Admiral  Seymour,  in  command  of  the 
Collingwood,  on  the  coast  of  California.  No  sooner 
were  these  received,  and  orders  given  to  make  sail, 
than  three  other  boats  were  seen  starting  from  the 
shore  at  the  top  of  their  speed.  Our  ship  was  hove 
to  till  they  came  up.  Two  of  them  had  communica- 
tions to  merchants  in  Callao.  The  third  had  in  liei 
two  of  our  runaway  sailors,  who  had  been  picked  up 
by  the  police,  and  whom  we  were  very  sorry  to  see 


220  DECK  AND  TORT. 


again  ;  for  they  were  notoriously  the  two  most  worth- 
less fellows  on  board.  But  we  were  not,  it  seems,  to 
get  rid  of  them  in  this  way.  So  true  is  it  that  a  bad 
penny  always  comes  back. 

Thursday,  March  19.  Before  coming  into  the  Pa- 
cific, our  imaginations  were  filled  with  dreams  of  its 
majestic  tranquillity.  But  if  the  exhibition  it  made 
of  itself  last  night  be  a  fair  specimen  of  its  charac- 
ter, it  is  a  living  libel  on  its  own  name.  It  flared  up 
like  an  enraged  maniac,  and  stove  in  our  cabin  win- 
dows, which  even  Cape  Horn  had  spared.  Its  rage 
seemed  wholly  unprovoked ;  for  the  sky  was  almost 
free  of  clouds,  and  even  the  few  which  did  darken  its 
face,  moved  on  lazily  as  those  in  which  the  winds 
have  fallen  asleep.  The  moon  looked  down  on  the 
uproar  in  perfect  calmness.  Her  light  fell  on  the 
crest  of  the  wave,  soft  as  dew  on  the  death-foam  of 
the  savage. 

One  of  our  boys  ran  away  at  Valparaiso.  He  had 
but  just  recovered  from  the  effects  of  a  fall  down  the 
main-hatch.  He  probably  thought  the  best  method 
of  escaping  the  chances  of  another  fall,  would  be  to 
give  the  hatch  the  widest  berth  possible.  But  the 
poor  lad  will  find  worse  hatches  on  land  than  he  ever 
yet  stumbled  through  at  sea.  Here  he  broke  only  a 
limb,  but  there  he  may  break  his  peace  of  conscience, 
and  his  hope  of  heaven.    But  sailors  are  of  all  beings 


PASSAGE   FROM   VALPARAISO  TO   CALLAO.  221 

in  the  world  the  most  thoughtless.  The  monitions 
of  the  future  are  lost  in  the  impulses  of  the  present. 
They  have  been  known,  for  some  temporary  gratifi- 
cation, to  run  from  a  ship  with  two  years  pay  due 
them,  and  to  forfeit  the  whole  by  that  act  of  folly. 
This  running  commences  in  rum  and  ends  in  ruin. 

Friday,  March  20i  We  have  the  wind  directly 
aft.  Our  fore  studding-sails  are  out  like  the  wings 
of  a  bird  on  the  breast  of  a  gale.  We  have  run 
within  the  last  two  days  four  hundred  and  forty 
miles.  This  is  good  sailing  considering  we  have  six 
months'  provision  on  board,  and  lie  consequently  too 
deep  for  the  greatest  speed.  The  air  is  balmy,  and 
the  songs  of  our  sailors,  at  sunset,  rose  exultingly 
into  its  blue  depths.  A  sailor  always  sings  with 
heart.  His  music  rolls  out  like  a  dashing  stream 
from  its  mountain  source.  It  is  never  gay;  it  al- 
ways has  a  deep  vein  of  melancholy.  If  a  few  more 
lively  notes  mingle  with  the  strain,  they  come  only 
at  intervals,  like  flakes  of  moonlight  between  the 
cypress  shadows  which  mantle  the  marbles  of  the 
dead. 

He  is  a  gay  being  when  he  gets  upon  shore ;  but 
he  is  then  no  longer  on  his  own  element.  Give  him 
a  day's  liberty,  and  he  will  commit  more  follies  than 
he  would  in  six  months  at  sea.  If  he  charters  a 
hack,  he  will  ride  out  on  the  l><>\  with  the  driver  ami 
19* 


222  DECK  AND  PORT. 


make  the  hold,  as  he  terms  the  interior,  welcome  to 
any  one  who  may  be  disposed  to  use  it.  If  he  hires 
a  horse,  he  will  ride  him  at  his  utmost  speed,  though 
he  knows  no  more  than  you  do  where  he  shall  bring 
up.  He  goes  to  church  on  the  Sabbath,  and  if  no 
one  offers  him  a  seat,  brings  in  a  huge  billet  of  wood, 
or  a  stone,  and  moors  ship  in  the  middle  of  the  aisle. 
He  sits  there  grave  as  a  deacon,  never  once  nods 
during  the  sermon,  and  when  the  contribution  box 
comes  along  for  sending  missionaries  to  the  heathen, 
drops  in  the  last  dollar  which  his  fiddler  has  left  him. 

Saturday,  March  21.  We  lost  at  Valparaiso  the 
Samson  of  our  ship.  He  was  from  Bremen,  and  of 
German  extraction.  He  stood  seven  feet  in  his 
stockings.  His  arm  was  as  large  as  the  leg  of  an 
ordinary  man.  He  could  carry  a  water  tank,  which 
any  two  others  among  the  crew  could  cnly  lift.  He 
went  with  the  rest  upon  shore  on  liberty,  fell  in  with 
a  few  of  his  countrymen,  drank  too  freely,  and  stayed 
beyond  his  time. 

He  would  have  returned  on  board,  but  he  shrunk 
from  the  disgrace  of  corporal  punishment.  He  had 
the  finest  sensibilities,  and  looked  upon  a  blow,  in- 
flicted in  the  shape  of  a  chastisement,  as  a  brand  of 
indelible  infamy.  To  escape  this  he  had  no  resource, 
as  he  supposed,  but  to  conceal  himself  till  after  our 
ship  should  sail.     Every  effort  was  made  to  recover 


PASSAGE   FROM  VALPARAISO  TO  CALLAO.  223 

him,  but  without  success.  His  conduct  had  been 
unexceptionable.  He  had  never  fallen  under  cen- 
sure. His  fidelity  to  duty  had  won  the  regard  and 
confidence  of  all.  His  loss  was  the  more  regretted 
as  it  flowed  from  a  misapprehension  on  his  part. 
He  would  not  have  been  punished  had  he  returned 
on  board.  His  next  liberty  day  might  have  been 
withheld,  and  that  would  have  been  all. 

He  would  have  been  :i  tower  of  strength  in  an 
engagement.  He  could  have  wielded  a  sky-sail  yard 
as  a  boarding-pike.  But  in  the  centre  of  all  these 
giant  energies  gushed  a  fountain  warm  and  fresh  as 
that  in  the  heart  of  a  child.  He  carried  with  him 
his  mother's  picture,  and  hung  over  it  with  that  loud- 
ness which  absence  cannot  wean  or  age  chill.  Keep 
that  picture,  thou  noble  tar!  all  is  not  lost  while  the 
love  of  that  remains. 

Sunday,  March  22.  The  sky  covered  with  a  soft 
haze,  the  air  balmy,  our  ship  moving  lour  and  live 
knots  ;  divine  service  at  11  o'clock.  The  subject  <>[' 
the  discourse,  the  power  of  evil  habit  ;  the  progress 
of  crime  traced  ;  its  incipient  insignificance,  its  tre- 
mendous results  ;  the  stealing  an  apple  leading  to 
highway  robbery;  an  irreverent  word  paving  the 
way  to  profaneness ;  a  play  of  chance  for  amuse- 
ment leading  to  the  hazards  of  the  gaming  table; 
the  social  glass  ending  at  last  in  delirium  and  death. 


224  DECK  AND  PORT. 


But  a  future  state  revealing  the  more  full  effects  of 
an  evil  habit.  Here  the  traces  of  guilt  dimly  appa- 
rent on  the  man,  there  deep  and  indelible  on  his  soul; 
here  rfh  outcast  from  the  community,  there  an  out- 
cast from  heaven ;  here  suffering  the  loss  of  a  tran- 
sient temporal  good,  there  an  immortality  of  bliss. 
God  grant  these  admonitions  may  arrest  some  poor 
sailor  in  his  career  of  folly  and  ruin. 

Monday,  March  23.  The  wind  has  been  faint  and 
directly  aft  through  the  day  ;  still  we  have  made  a 
hundred  miles  in  the  last  twenty-four  hours.  We 
have  just  had  a  splendid  sunset.  The  whole  western 
horizon  was  a  sea  of  cloud  and  flame. 

The  setting  sun  is  beautiful  at  sea, 

And  throws  a  richer  splendor  on  the  eye 

Than  when  on  land  beheld  ;  the  cause  may  be 
A  brighter,  bolder  amplitude  of  sky. 

And  then  the  fathomless  immensity 

Of  waters,  and  the  twilight  clouds,  which  lie 

Along  the  west,  and  which  at  sea  appear 

As  islands  in  a  golden  atmosphere. 

But  then  there  follows  this  resplendent  sight 
An  hour  of  deeper  beauty  to  the  shore  ; 

The  glowing  west  has  darkened  into  night, 
The  stars  are  out,  and  from  their  cisterns  pour 

On  tree  and  tower  a  flood  of  mellow  light, 

Through  which  the  crags  in  sheeted  silver  soar ; 

"While  caverned  cliffs  the  billows'  dirge  prolong, 

And  roll  it  back  a  murmuring  tide  of  song. 


PASSAGE  FROM  VALPARAISO  TO  CALLAO.     225 

And  this  is  rapture — thus  alone  to  stray 

Along  the  moon-lit  shore,  and  hear  each  wave 

Repeat  its  dying  anthem  round  the  bay, 
Or  rush  exulting  down  some  sparry  cave 

With  death-defiant  roar  ;  though  on  its  way, 
With  all  its  swelling  peans,  to  the  grave. 

And  then  'tis  hushed  again,  except  the  song 

Of  breaking  billows,  which  the  cliffs  prolong. 

Oh,  you  may  talk  of  banquetings  and  balls — 
Of  wit  and  merriment  at  masquerade — 

Of  revels  held  in  old  baronial  halls — 
Or  music  murmured  in  the  serenade : 

Give  me  the  lay  of  distant  waterfalls, 

The  song  of  May  birds  in  the  forest  shade, 

And  that  deep  anthem,  which  the  choiring  waves 

Of  ocean  roll  from  her  melodious  caves. 

Tuesday,  March  24.  What  ups  and  downs  there 
are  on  board  a  man-of-war!  The  young  Englishman 
who  left  the  elegancies  of  the  Astor  House,  and  ship- 
ped as  a  common  sailor  on  board  our  frigate,  contin- 
ued to  win  upon  the  friendship  of  the  crew.  He  was 
hail  fellow  well  met  with  the  whole.  He  was  always 
at  his  post,  and  prompt  and  cheerful  in  duty.  No 
weather  ever  sent  him  below,  when  it  was  his  watch 
on  deck.  He  struck  out  so  strongly,  that  he  soon 
gained  a  position  aloft,  and  had  his  eye  on  being 
captain  of  the  maintop. 

But  on  reaching  Valparaiso  his  nom  de  guerre  took 
flight.     He  was  recognised  as  the  son  of  a  wealthy 


226  DECK  AND  PORT. 


broker  in  Manchester,  England  ;  and  the  important 
intelligence  had  just  reached  here  that  his  uncle,  re- 
cently deceased,  had  left  him  twenty  thousand  pounds. 
The  correctness  of  this  intelligence  was  ascertained 
from  sources  which  left  no  doubt ;  and  still  he  hesi- 
tated about  applying  for  his  discharge,  and  declared 
he  had  never  been  so  happy  as  since  he  turned  sailor. 
He  brought  on  board  a  letter  of  credit  on  a  large 
banking-house  in  New  York,  but  had  never  availed 
himself  of  it.  He  at  last  yielded  to  the  importuni- 
ties of  his  friends  at  Valparaiso,  and  applied  for  his 
discharge,  which  Captain  Du  Pont,  with  the  sanc- 
tion of  our  commodore,  ordered  to  be  made  out. 
He  shook  hands  with  his  shipmates,  wished  them  stiff 
breezes  and  snug  harbors,  and  in  his  ta/paulin  and 
roundabout,  left  his  station  on  the  main-yard  for  a 
London  coach. 

Wednesday,  March  25.  We  have  among  our 
crew  a  youth  who  is  touched  with  insanity.  The 
hallucination  takes  every  variety  of  shape,  and  every 
degree  of  force.  A  few  days  since  he  fancied  that  he 
had  but  one  friend  on  board,  and  wanted  a  lantern  at 
noon,  with  which  to  look  him  up.  To-day  his  con- 
viction has  been  that  he  shall  not  see  the  sun  rise 
again  ?  As  the  glorious  orb  went  down,  he  stationed 
himself  on  the  steps  of  the  accommodation-ladder  to 
take  his  farewell  look.     There  was  as  much  poetry 


PASSAGE   FROM  VALPARAISO   TO   CALLAO.  227 

in  his  fine  wild  features  as  in  the  tragical  idea  that 
had  brought  him  there.  He  poured  his  mournful 
adieu  to  the  sun  in  the  lines  of  Manfred,  which 
seemed  more  his  own  than  the  guilty  misanthrope's 
who  uttered  them  : 

"  Thou  material  God  ! 
And  representative  of  the  Unknown — 
Who  chose  thee  for  his  shadow.    Thou  chief  star! 
Sire  of  the  seasons  !  monarch  of  the  clinics, 
And  those  who  dwell  in  them  !   Ear  near  or  far, 
Our  inborn  spirits  have  a  tint  of  thee, 
Even  as  our  outward  aspects; — thou  dost  rise 
And  set  in  glory.     Fare  thee  well! 
I  ne'er  shall  see  thee  more.     As  my  first  glance 
Of  love  ami  wonder  was  for  thee,  then  take 
My  latest  look  :  thou  wilt  not  beam  on  one 
To  whom  the  gifts  of  life  and  warmth  have  been 
Of  a  more  fatal  nature.     He  is  gone  !" 

Thursday,  March  2G.  We  discovered  a  sail  this 
afternoon  on  our  starboard-bow,  and  stood  down  for 
her.  As  our  noble  ship,  with  her  heavy  batteries 
frowning  death,  nearcd  her,  she  run  up  the  American 
ensign  at  her  peak.  We  captured  her  in  mimic  war. 
She  proved  to  be  the  Balaena,  a  whale-ship,  or,  as  our 
s;iilors  term  it,  a  spouter,  from  New  Bedford.  She 
had  been  out  five  months.  She  had  two  men  nt  her 
main,  two  at  her  fore,  and  one  at  her  mi/.en  top.  look- 
ing out  for  whales.  Success  to  them.  I  would  .is 
soon  seek  a  tree-top  in  a  thunder-storm.     The  mimic 


228  DECK  AND  PORT. 


fight  took  place  after  she  had  shown  her  colors,  and 
was  gone  through  with  merely  to  accustom  our  men 
to  some  of  the  evolutions  of  a  real  engagement. 

Our  crew  is  composed  in  too  great  a  proportion  of 
young  men.  They  have  not  that  solidity  and  strength 
of  muscle  which  our  heavy  guns  require.  But  they 
are  very  active,  and  would  pour  themselves,  as  board- 
ers, in  a  living  tide  on  the  enemy.  Our  best  crews 
are  those  enlisted  after  war  has  been  declared. 
Thousands  who  now  seek  our  civil  marine,  would  in 
that  event  rush  to  our  armed  decks. 

The  Balaena  must  have  been  christened  by  some 
lady  of  New  Bedford  who  has  a  touch  of  Latinity 
about  her.  The  name,  it  is  true,  signifies  a  whale, 
but  no  vulgar  vandal  spouter,  but  an  elegant  Roman 
balaena — such  as  might  have  danced  on  the  harp- 
strings  of  a  Lucretius,  or  streamed  in  the  insignia  of 
Cleopatra's  barge,  as  it  rocked  on  the  amber  waves 
of  Cydnus,  and  threw  back  the  sun's  rays  from  its 
decks  of  burnished  gold.  Give  me  that  lady  who 
can  throw  a  classic  charm  around  a  whale-ship.  A 
cabbage  in  her  hands  would  soon  take  the  colors  and 
perfume  of  the  rose. 

Friday,  March  27.  Our  slumbers  were  broken 
this  morning  by  the  cry  of  land  ho !  from  the  watch 
in  the  fore-top.  We  had  been  under  shortened  sail 
through  the  night  for  fear  of  shooting  too  far  ahead. 


PASSAGE  FROM  VALPARAISO  TO  CALLAO.     229 

But  we  made  an  excellent  landfall.  As  day  glim- 
mered, the  barren  isle  of  San  Lorenzo  loomed  into 
the  light  on  our  starboard  bow.  It  was  sufficiently 
near  to  throw  its  jagged  outline  full  on  the  eye. 

The  sea  breeze  soon  sprung  up,  when  we  made 
sail,  and  doubling  the  northern  extremity  of  San  Lo- 
renzo, the  harbor  of  Callao  opened  upon  us.  We 
moved  up  its  ample  expanse  with  our  topgallant  sails 
set,  and  came  to  in  handsome  style  with  our  star- 
board anchor.  We  were  welcomed  by  clouds  of 
gulls  and  pelicans,  which  floated  around  our  ship 
and  cast  the  sea  into  shadow.  Had  they  possessed 
anthropophagous  propensities,  we  might  have  felt 
some  solicitude  for  our  personal  safety. 

Our  sails  were  hardly  clued  down  when  our  vice- 
consul,  Mr.  Johnson,  came  on  board.  Our  first  in- 
quiry was  for  letters  from  home.  Deep  was  our  dis- 
appointment when  told  there  were  none.  Almost  six 
months  from  the  United  States  and  not  a  single  mail 
yet, — not  even  a  straggling  letter!  Think  of  that, 
ye  who  cannot  leave  your  homes  for  a  week  without 
a  letter  each  day.  We  may  have  children  born 
without  knowing  it,  and  find  them,  on  our  return, 
some  three  years  old.  It  is  no  wonder  they  timidly 
stare  at  their  strange  fathers,  and  take  refuge  in  their 
mothers'  arms. 

Saturday,  March  28.     Callao  falls  immeasurably 
20 


230  DECK   AND  TORT. 


short  of  the  picture  which  my  imagination  had 
painted.  It  is  a  collection  of  low,  dingy  dwellings, 
occupying  the  rippling  verge  of  a  vast  sand-plain. 
The  only  beings  which  give  to  it  an  air  of  life  are 
buzzards ;  or  here  and  there  a  fisherman  hawking 
the  trophies  of  his  hook ;  or  an  Indian  woman  on  a 
donkey,  riding  straddle. 

We  encountered  on  reaching  the  landing  two  im- 
mense piles  of  wheat,  which  had  been  shipped  from 
Chili.  Each  pile  must  have  had  in  it  not  j^ss  than 
twenty  thousand  bushels.  Neither  had  any  cover- 
ing, and  needed  none,  as  it  never  at  this  season  rains 
or  snows  here.  Nature  allows  man  to  be  as  lazy  as 
possible,  and  he  seems  to  have  availed  himself  of  the 
privilege  to  the  utmost  extent.  Even  the  dog  which 
slumbers  on  the  trottoir  will  sooner  hazard  your 
heel  than  break  his  dreams.  The  children  run  half 
naked  ;  and  the  women,  too  indolent  to  hook  the  tops 
of  their  dresses,  throw  a  loose  shawl  over  their 
shoulders,  and  nurse  their  infants  as  publicly  as  they 
would  take  out  a  pocket-handkerchief. 

The  fort,  a  place  of  great  strength  in  its  day,  has 
been  dismantled.  It  had  become  the  rallying  point 
of  the  disaffected.  A  few  revoli  tionists  could  here 
set  the  arms  of  the  whole  republic  at  defiance.  The 
government,  standing  in  greater  dread  of  domestic 
than  foreign  foes,  issued  a  decree  for  its  destruction. 
The   government    must   be  weak   indeed,  which  is 


TASSAGE   FROM  VALPARAISO  TO  CALLAO.  231 

obliged  to  consult  its  safety  in  the  destruction  of  the 
defences  of  its  territory! 

Sunday,  March  29.  We  are  lying  in  the  bay  of 
a  Roman  Catholic  country  where  no  place  of  wor- 
ship is  allowed  to  Protestants.  There  is  not  a  hall 
or  chapel  within  the  limits  of  Peru  where  they  who 
differ  from  the  papal  see  can  assemble  on  the  Sab- 
bath. Repeated  efforts  have  been  made  to  obtain 
permission  to  erect  such  a  place,  but  as  yet  without 
success.  The  archbishop  of  Lima,  who  gets  his  in- 
structions from  Rome,  has  set  his  face  against  it, 
and  the  government  is  at  present  too  weak,  were  it 
so  disposed,  to  set  his  ecclesiastical  authority  at  de- 
fiance. 

It  would  not  be  amiss  for  some  of  our  Catholic 
bishops  to  come  here  and  preach  up  a  little  tolera- 
tion to  their  brethren  ;  and,  before  they  go  away,  I 
wish  they  would  pass  over  to  the  barren  isle  of  San 
Lorenzo.  On  this  bleak,  herbless  rock,  which  is  fre- 
quented  only  by  pelicans  and  vultures,  the}-  will  find 
the  graves  of  nearly  all  the  Protestants  who  have 
died  in  Peru  for  centuries  past.  Not  one  of  those 
who  lie  here  could  have  procured  himself  a  grave  on 
the  mainland. 

But  we  have  one  resource  on  board  ship  which  no 
proscription  can  reach.  We  carry  our  chapel  with 
us  on  the  open  deck.  Our  capstan  is  a  pulpit  which 
has   never  been  overawed.      We  have  <>nr   worship 


232  DECK  AND  PORT. 


on  the  Sabbath,  in  whatever  port  we  may  lie,  with- 
out consulting  the  authorities  on  shore.  Our  privi- 
lege is  wide  as  the  ocean,  and  the  shores  which  it 
laves.  Would  it  were  so  with  every  denomination 
of  Christians.  The  faggot  which  bigotry  kindles 
may  burn  the  recusant  first,  but  is  pretty  sure  in  the 
end  to  consume  those  who  light  it. 

Our  forefathers  were  driven  out  of  the  old  world 
by  the  intolerance  of  an  arbitrary  authority,  attempt- 
ing to  enthrone  itself  on  the  human  conscience.  I 
seem  to  stand  once  more  beneath  the  wintry  trees 
which  threw  their  bleak  shadows  on  the  rock  where 
they  first  knelt,  in  their  wild  inhospitable  home. 
Their  memory  stands  apart,  as  a  thing  by  itself,  sa- 
cred and  imperishable  in  the  reverence  and  love  of 
millions.     Hail  to 

THE    PILGRIM    FATHERS. 

They  were  men  of  giant  soul, 

Men  of  faith  and  deeds  sublime ; 
Men  whose  acts  will  reach  their  goal 

In  the  mighty  depths  of  time. 

They  resigned,  at  God's  behest, 

Kindred,  home,  their  fathers'  graves — 

Pilgrims  o'er  the  ocean's  crest, 
Mid  the  thunder  of  its  waves. 

Here — where  pathless  forests  frowned, 
Wading  torrents  rolled  their  foam, 


PASSAGE   I'ROM   VALPARAISO  TO  CALLAO.  233 

Wolves  and  wild-men  prowled  around — 
Rose  their  altars  and  their  home. 

"What  to  them  were  stately  shrines, 

Gorgeous  dome,  or  towering  spire  ? 
'Neath  their  sturdy  oaks  and  pines 

Rose  their  anthems,  winged  with  tire  1 

When  oppression  reached  the  coast, 

With  the  tyrant's  purpose  flashed, 
They  to  peril's  deadliest  post 

For  their  God  and  country  rushed. 

As  the  steep  volcano  throws 

From  its  burning  breast  the  rock, 
They  o'crthrew  their  columned  foes, 

In  the  battle's  fiery  shock. 

All  that  consecrates  their  fame, 

All  that  sanctifies  our  hearth, 
All  that  freedom  here  can  claim  ; 

In  their  noble  minds  had  birth. 

By  their  dead,  on  Bunker's  steep  ! 

By  their  bones,  in  Monmouth's  plains 
We  their  faith  and  trust  will  keep, 

While  their  blood  rolls  in  our  veins  1 

Thou  who  hcard'st  the  Pilgrim's  prayer — 

Nerved  him  for  the  doubtful  field — 
Made  his  sacred  cause  thy  care, 

O'er  us  cast  thy  mighty  shield  1 
20* 


234 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

SKETCHES   OF    LIMA. 

incidents  of  the  road. the  grand  tlaza. shofs  and  houses. the 

saya  y  manto. american  i.ady. — mixture  of  races. — demeanor  ok 

girls  and  boys. procession  on  palm  sunday. convent  of  the 

franciscans. — doctors  of  lima. good  friday. the  last  supper. 

pilate's  court. — garden  of  gethsemane. — close  of  lent. — jubila- 
tions.— CLIMATE. AN   OFFICER   IN    PRISON. LAWYERS. THE    INDIAN'S 

EYRIE. THE  LOTTERY. BULL-FIGHT. 

In  Lima's  streets  a  stranger  stood, 

Who  wrapp'd  his  thoughts  about  him 
So  close,  that  they  who  watched  his  mood, 

But  deemed  the  place  without  him. 

Monday,  March  30.  We  were  off  this  morning 
at  an  early  hour  for  Lima.  The  distance  is  only 
seven  miles,  and  is  travelled  by  a  line  of  omnibuses, 
drawn  by  six  horses,  three  abreast.  Our  companions 
were  lieutenants  S.  and  L.  of  the  Congress,  two 
Peruvian  officers,  a  Spanish  lady  with  a  lapdog,  a 
Creole  girl  smoking  a  cigar,  and  a  quadroon  in  white- 
kid  slippers. 

We  passed  on  the  right  an  obelisk  surmounted  by 
a  cross,  designating  the  spot  to  which  the  sea  was 
thrown,  in  the  great  earthquake  of  1746.  A  little 
further  on  we  passed  the  neglected  dwellings  of  Bel- 
lavista,  projected  as  the  new  Callao,  and  built  further 


SKETCHES  OF  LIMA.  235 

inland,  that  it  might  escape  the  terrible  fate  of  its 
predecessor.  But  fear  soon  yielded  to  the  sugges- 
tions of  commercial  convenience,  and  Callao  went 
back  again  to  the  strand  of  the  sea. 

After  dragging  along  for  nearly  an  hour,  with  our 
old  vehicle  buried  to  the  axle  in  sand,  we  reached 
the  halfway  station,  which  consists  of  a  dilapidated 
church  and  a  grog-shop.  In  the  ruined  turrets  of  the 
one  the  martins  had  built  their  procreant  nests  ;  at 
the  bar  of  the  other  stood  a  bare-headed  monk,  soli- 
citing the  change  which  the  glass  of  toddy  might 
leave.  His  large  feet  were  protected  by  sandals,  and 
his  Roman  nose  was  so  red  that  one  of  the  passen- 
gers got  out  a  cigar. 

Having  breathed  our  steeds,  we  started  again, 
when  a  fierce  quarrel  arose  between  the  Spanish 
lady  and  her  poodle.  The  little  fellow  had  wet  her 
pocket-handkerchief,  and  had  hisears  soundly  boxed 
for  the  indiscretion.  The  quadroon  took  the  part  of 
the  poodle,  and  the  Creole  girl  smoked  on.  We  now 
passed  several  huge  tumuli — the  burial  mounds  of 
the  aborigines.  The  heroic  virtues  which  they  en- 
tomb have  perished.  No  Homer  has  swept  his  lyre 
in  their  giant  shadows.  The  road,  as  we  approached 
the  city,  presented  on  either  side  double  rows  of  pop- 
lars, beneath  which  the  Limanians  take  their  twilight 
promenade.  But  at  this  time  only  a  few  donkeys 
were  winding  their  way  through  them,  buried  up  in 


236  DECK  AND  PORT. 


grass,  which  they  were  taking  to  market.  You  saw 
only  the  burden  ;  the  animal  was  concealed  under 
it,  like  a  tortoise  beneath  its  shell,  or  a  mouse  under 
a  crow's  nest. 

We  found  at  the  gate  a  sentry  posted  with  as 
much  solemnity  as  if  the  old  bastion  could  still  thun- 
der out  its  defiance.  We  rattled  up  a  broad  street 
into  the  heart  of  the  city,  where  we  were  emptied 
from  our  crazy  coach  into  an  office  surrounded  by 
boys,  who  vociferously  claimed  the  privilege  of  trans- 
porting our  baggage.  The  urchins  had  hold  of  it 
before  we  could  even  tell  them  where  we  were  go- 
ing. The  lady  with  her  repentant  poodle,  and  the 
Creole  with  her  cigar,  went  their  way,  and  we  brought 
up  at  Morin's  hotel  on  the  grand  plaza.  The  keeper 
met  us  in  the  hall,  welcomed  us  to  Lima,  and  allotted 
us  our  apartments.  Here  we  were  then  at  last  in 
the  "  city  of  kings,"  and  in  the  most  sumptuous  hotel 
which  its  ambition  and  luxury  could  furnish.  What 
a  transition  from  the  storms,  the  sleet,  and  whales 
off  Cape  Horn ! 

Tuesday,  March  31.  The  heart  of  Lima  is  occu- 
pied by  a  great  public  square,  in  the  centre  of  which 
stands  a  fountain,  the  showering  waters  of  which  fall 
into  a  wide  marble  basin.  Beneath  the  verandas 
which  open  on  this  square  are  the  fancy  shops  of  the 
city,  while  the  Cathedral  towers  over  all  in  its  solemn 


SKETCHES  OF  LIMA.  237 


magnificence.  Around  the  fountain,  instead  of  mar- 
ble statues,  you  find  donkeys,  waiting  to  have  the 
tanks,  which  are  swung  across  their  little  pack-sad- 
dles, filled  with  water.  As  soon  as  this  has  been 
done,  off  they  start  on  their  destination,  without 
leader  or  rein.  For  these  two  kegs  of  water  the 
owner  gets  a  real,  or  twelve  and  a  half  cents.  Thus 
is  Lima  supplied  with  water  ;  when  it  might  be  con- 
ducted by  pipes  through  every  street  of  the  city. 

In  the  shops,  which  line  three  sides  of  the  grand* 
square,  are  found  almost  all  the  elegant  products  of 
art  and  mechanical  ingenuity.  The  long  colonnades 
which  protect  them  from  the  sun,  are  paved  with 
smooth  pebbles,  and  are  sufficiently  wide  for  several 
persons  to  walk  abreast.  Here  you  encounter,  at  all 
hours  of  the  day,  the  indolent  and  the  active,  the 
grave  and  the  gay  of  Lima.  A  more  motley  crowd 
in  color  and  costume  cannot  well  be  conceived.  The 
language  of  almost  every  nation  on  the  globe  throws 
its  peculiar  accents  on  the  ear.  The  poorest  have 
on  them  generally  some  article  of  luxury  or  refine- 
ment. The  Spanish  lady  is  seen  in  her  soya  y  7/tnn- 
to ;  the  mestizoe  in  her  gayly-figured  shawl,  and  the 
quadroon  in  her  white-kid  slippers. 

Wednesday,  April  1.  Since  the  great  earthquake 
of  174G,  the  houses  in  Lima  have  generally  been 
confined  to  one  story.     A  few  families  of  wealth, 


238  DECK  AND  PORT. 


who  consulted  their  pride  more  than  their  personal 
safety,  have  run  their  dwellings  a  little  higher.  The 
walls  are  uniformly  of  sun-baked  brick,  and  the  roofs 
flat.  The  more  pretending  houses  have  an  open 
court  between  the  heavy  gate  and  the  main  building. 
The  front  of  the  dwelling,  with  its  fresco  paintings, 
and  gilded  window-frames,  glimmering  through  the 
evergreens  which  fill  the  court,  has  a  fine  effect ; 
every  thing  looks  inviting  and  cool,  well  suited  to 
the  climate — but  a  dash  of  snow  would  ruin  its  attrac- 
tions. 

Almost  every  house  betrays  the  Moorish  origin  of 
its  architecture  in  its  veranda.  This  appendage  re- 
sembles a  long,  capacious  bird-cage,  fastened  to  the 
wall ;  it  is  composed  of  lattice-work,  and  is  painted 
green.  Here  the  inmates  can  observe  the  passing 
crowd  without  being  themselves  seen.  But  all  the 
buildings  in  Lima  have  about  them  the  evidences  of 
decay.  Many  of  the  mansions  of  the  rich  have 
passed  into  the  hands  of  foreign  merchants,  and  are 
used"  as  counting-houses;  while  others  have  been 
converted  into  hotels  and  restaurants.  Many  fami- 
lies of  distinction,  after  the  revolution,  returned  to 
Spain  ;  and  not  a  few  of  those  who  remain  are  slow- 
ly exhausting  the  remnants  of  their  once  splendid 
fortunes.  A  Spaniard  with  the  most  diluted  drop  of 
noble  blood  in  his  veins,  will  about  as  soon  starve  as 
work.     He  regards  labor  as  a  degradation. 


SKETCHES  OF  LIMA.  239 

Thursday,  April  2.  The  novelty  in  costume, 
which  first  strikes  the  stranger  in  Lima,  is  the  saya 
y  manto  of  the  ladies.  At  a  distance  this  dress 
looks  like  two  petticoats ;  the  one  hanging  down 
where  all  petticoats  should  hang,  and  the  other  drawn 


<-!-  "   ii  m  i  'Tm^' 


up  over  the  head,  as  if  lifted  by  a  little  whirlwind  in 
mischief.  But  the  lower  garment  proves  to  be  a  rich 
silk  skirt,  so  plaited  and  arranged  as  to  betray  the 
swelling  outline  of  the  person  and  fall  in  wooing 
drapery  around  the  limbs,  while  the  upper  one  com- 
bines the  advantages  of  the  hood  and  mantle.  It  is 
fastened  at  the  bottom  within  the  band  of  the  skirt, 
and  falls  over  this  cincture  in  a  flowing  wreath  ; 
while  the  top  is  gathered  over  the  head  and  luce,  and 
so  held  by  the  hand  within  as  to  expose  but  one  eye. 


240  DF.CK   AND  PORT. 


The  disguise  is  complete ;  no  husband  could  recog- 
nise his  own  wife  in  such  a  dress. 

The  apology  attempted  for  this  dress  is,  that  it  en- 
ables a  lady  to  go  out  in  the  morning,  to  mass  or 
shopping,  before  she  has  made  her  toilet.  The  ob- 
jections to  it  lie  in  the  facilities  which  it  lends  to 
purposes  of  a  very  different  character.  It  veils  a  love 
intrigue  from  all  but  the  guilty.  The  jealous  care  of 
the  husband,  and  the  sleepless  vigilance  of  the  du- 
enna, are  alike  baffled  by  its  impenetrable  folds. 
With  the  young  it  often  paves  the  way  to  ruin  and 
a  life  of  crime.  No  virtuous  community  would  tol- 
erate its  presence  for  a  moment.  It  has  been  relin- 
quished by  some  of  the  better  families  in  Lima,  and 
was  once  put  under  the  ban  of  a  legislative  statute ; 
but  it  still  survives,  and  is  still  in  extensive  use.  The 
Evil  One,  could  such  a  thing  be,  might  drop  tears 
over  its  fall. 

How  the  heart  turns  from  such  a  picture  as  this, 
to  that  of  one  whose  breathing  features  throw  at 
this  moment  their  unveiled  sweetness  on  my  eye. 
Born  in  other  climes,  she  blooms  here  in  all  her  na- 
tive modesty  and  grace.  There  is  an  air  about  her, 
a  delicacy,  and  a  heart  that  speak  the  truthfulness  of 
her  nature,  and  her  freedom  from  those  affectations 
which  vanity  and  a  false  taste  induce.  My  Ariel, 
who  loves  these  qualities  in  woman,  has  thrown  into 
a  few  simple  stanzas  a  faint  outline  of  the  original. 


SKETCHES   OF  LIMA.  241 


THE    AMERICAN    LADY. 

She  moves  among  us,  but  apart 

From  folly's  empty  din  ; 
The  smile  that  lights  her  silent  heart 

Flows  from  a  fount  within. 

The  incense  of  the  flatterer's  tongue, 

Which  each  in  turn  may  share, 
She  lightly  deems  as  bubbles  flung 

Upon  the  empty  air. 

And  when  a  flash  of  anger's  force 

Would  light  resentment's  flame, 
She  only  pities  more  the  source 

From  which  the  menace  came. 

There's  not  a  throb  which  sorrow  brings, 

Or  sigh  of  the  oppress'd, 
But  pours  its  pulses  o'er  the  strings 

Which  tremble  in  her  breast 

There's  not  a  smile  which  hope  bestows, 

Or  light  in  memory's  dream, 
But  o'er  her  changing  aspect  throws 

Its  warm  reflected  beam. 

Her  bright  thoughts  greet  us  as  the  raya 

Of  some  sweet  star  at  even, 
Seen  o'er  the  twilight's  misty  haze, 

Climbing  the  verge  of  heaven. 

Friday,  April  3.    Slavery  is  near  its  extinction  in 
Peru.     No  one  can  be  born  a  slave  under  its  new 
21 


242  DECK  AND  PORT. 


constitution,  and  the  introduction  of  slaves  from 
other  provinces  or  states  is  prohibited  under  penal- 
ties which  involve  a  loss  of  citizenship  for  life.  Any 
slave  can  obtain  his  freedom  for  a  few  hundred  dol- 
lars, or  by  taking  refuge  among  the  Indians  who  in- 
habit the  glens  of  the  Cordilleras.  It  is  unlawful  for 
any  master  to  strike  his  slaves.  If  they  misbehave, 
he  can  increase  their  task,  but  cannot  inflict  corporal 
chastisement. 

Nothing  puzzles  the  stranger  here  so  much  as  the 
singular  mixture  of  races.  The  Spaniard,  the  In- 
dian, and  the  African  run  together  like  the  hues  of 
the  dying  dolphin.  It  is  impossible  to  tell  where  one 
color  ceases  and  the  other  begins.  Even  in  the  same 
family,  complexions  frequently  differ  wide  enough  to 
embrace  both  extremes.  The  African  in  other  coun- 
tries can  be  traced  ;  but  here,  after  a  few  genera- 
tions, he  becomes  so  bleached  by  the  climate  that 
you  lose  sight  of  his  origin.  Even  his  hair,  that 
almost  infallible  indication,  straightens  out  into  the 
texture  of  the  European's.  Add  to  this  the  results 
of  intermarriage,  and  you  may  well  be  in  doubt 
where  to  class  him. 

Some  of  the  best-looking  females  in  Lima  are  ot 
this "  description.  They  resemble  in  hue  and  form 
the  Circassian,  and  would  be  regarded  at  Constanti- 
nople as  extremely  beautiful.  They  are  soft  and  en- 
gaging in  their  manners,  amiable  in  their  dispositions, 


SKETCHES  OF   LIMA.  243 

excel  in  music,  and  are  often  married  to  gentlemen 
of  distinction  and  wealth. 

Saturday,  April  4.  The  college  boys  in  Lima 
look  like  little  military  captains.  They  strut  about 
in  cocked  hats  and  laced  coats ;  the  sword  only  is 
wanting.  The  last  thing  with  which  you  would 
associate  them  would  be  a  severe  ancient  classic. 
You  would  as  soon  look  lor  Greek  among  the  mata- 
dores  at  a  bull-fight.  Peru  will  produce  no  Porson 
while  these  cocked  hats  and  gilt  buttons  continue  in 
vogue  among  the  boys. 


But  all  the  little  boys  belonging  to  families  of  note 
are  dressed  here  like  gentlemen.  Your  fust  impres- 
sion would  be,  that  you  had  arrived  among  a  race  of 
Lilliputians.  But  a  closer  observation  shows  you 
that  these  little  well-dressed  gentlemen  are  infantines, 
let  loose  from  their  nurses'  arms.  They  are  but  little 
more  than  knee-high  ;  but  wear,  with  singular  gravi- 
ty, their  black  beaver  hats  and  long-tailed  coats. 

The  same  holds  true  of  the  little  miss  of  eight  and 


244  DECK  AND  PORT. 


nine.  Her  hair,  of  singular  length  for  that  of  a 
child,  instead  of  falling  in  ringlets  or  plaits,  is  done 
up  with  a  comb  like  that  of  her  mother's.  Her  silk 
dress,  with  its  close  bodice,  depends  gravely  to  the 
instep;  her  mantilla  falls  down  her  shoulders  with 
the  precision  of  that  of  a  nun  ;  while  her  hands  and 
arms  are  adjusted  with  the  utmost  composure.  Her 
whole  air  is  that  of  a  lady  over  whom  some  thirty 
years  have  passed,  and  she  expects  you  to  address 
her  in  the  same  respectful  terms.  She  is  the  pocket- 
edition  of  a  precise  spinster. 

Sunday,  April  5.  This  being  Palm  Sunday,  all 
Lima  turned  out  to  witness  a  procession  intended  to 
convey  an  idea  of  the  last  entrance  of  our  Saviour 
into  Jerusalem.  On  a  platform,  borne  forward  on 
the  shoulders  of  six  stout  men,  stood  a  donkey,  on 
which  a  wax  figure  was  mounted,  while  the  staging 
was  strewn  with  leaves  of  the  palm.  As  it  passed, 
hosannas  broke  from  the  lips  of  the  spectators. 

On  the  staging  which  followed  this,  stood  the  Vir- 
gin, in  glowing  wax.  She  wore  a  sparkling  diadem, 
and  a  robe  of  purple  velvet,  gorgeously  inwoven 
with  gold,  and  flowing  off  into  a  magnificent  train, 
supported  by  angels.  As  she  passed,  the  crowd  fell 
on  their  knees  and  whispered  their  Ave  Marias, 
while  the  swinging  censers  of  the  priests  sent  up 
their  curling  cloud  of  homage. 


SKETCHES  OF  LIMA.  245 

The  third  and  last  staging  supported  a  tree,  hi'_rli 
in  the  limbs  of  which  clung  a  little  wax  cherub,  in- 
tended to  represent  Zaccheus.  He  was  looking 
down  with  an  expression  quite  removed  from  one  of 
reverential  curiosity.  The  children  shouted,  and  it 
was  as  much  as  their  mothers  could  do  to  hush  them 
into  silence.  Thus  passed  this  religious  pagenut ; 
when  the  crowd  broke  up  in  much  the  same  humor 
with  which  they  would  leave  their  seats  at  a  theatre. 
Were  the  historic  symbols  of  our  religion  intended 
to  amuse  mankind,  this  spectacle  might  possibly  an- 
swer its  purpose.  But  here  the  awful  reality  so  over- 
powers the  representation,  that  it  cannot  leave  in  the 
imagination  even  the  solemnity  of  a  religious  delu- 
sion. 

Monday,  April  6.  We  visited  to-day  the  Francis- 
can church  and  convent.  They  cover  seven  acres 
of  ground,  and  combine  a  degree  of  architectural 
grandeur  and  cloisteral  luxury  singularly  at  variance 
with  the  mendicant  virtues  of  the  fraternity  to  which 
they  belong.  The  church,  indeed,  is  one  of  the  most 
sumptuous  in  Lima,  and  showers  its  rich  gilding  upon 
you  from  pavement  to  dome.  In  its  niches,  and  over 
its  altars  repose  statues,  on  which  art  has  bestowed 
the  highest  expressions  of  its  ambition. 

In  one  of  the  altars  we  recognised  St.  Benedict, 
holding  a  black  infant  Saviour  in  his  arms.     The  ex- 

21* 


246  DECK  AND  PORT. 


istence  of  this  representation  has  been  denied  by  a 
distinguished  prelate  of  the  Roman  Catholic  church 
in  the  United  States,  but  of  its  truth  I  have  the  tes- 
timony of  my  own  eyes.  The  idea  originated,  un- 
doubtedly,^ a  wish  to  conciliate  the  African.  Rome 
becomes  allthings  to  all  men,  and  I  hope  for  the  pur- 
pose of  saving  some. 

The  convent  has  four  hundred  cloisters,  which 
open  on  stately  corridors  that  circle  around  central 
courts,  where  fountains  play  among  evergreens, 
fruits,  and  flowers.  Who  would  not  gaze  on  a  skull 
and  a  life-glass  only  an  hour  or  two_a  day  to  enjoy 
such  a  residence  as  this  ?  These  gloomy  emblems 
of  our  mortality  might  almost  be  forgotten  in  the 
deathless  bloom  of  the  amaranth.  Give  me  a  monk 
for  exigencies  ;  he  can  make  solitude  social,  and  con- 
vert a  golgotha  into  a  garden.  He  lives  in  affluence 
without  a  ready  penny,  and  is  sainted  without  an 
active  virtue. 


Tuesday,  April  7.  To  die  regularly  in  Lima  the 
patient  must  be  admonished  of  his  approaching  end 
by  his  physician,  and  receive  extreme  unction  from 
his  priest.  The  physician  who  should  let  his  patient 
die  without  this  timely  warning,  would  receive  the 
severest  censures  of  the  relatives  of  the  deceased, 
and  be  required  by  the  church  to  pay  for  masses  for 
the  repose  of  his  soul.     He  is  consequently  faithful 


SKETCHES  OF  LIMA.  247 

in  this  last  sad  office.  With  us  the  sick  often  die  in 
glowing  dreams  of  life.  The  pale  shadow  flits  before 
their  glassing  eyes,  but  is  not  seen. 

The  medical  profession  here,  in  dignity  and  re- 
spect, ranks  far  below  the  pulpit,  the  bar,  and  the 
camp.  It  involves  too  many  cares,  too  many  vigils, 
too  many  humble  offices  to  suit  the  indolence  and 
pride  of  the  Spaniard.  It  is  consequently  exercised 
mainly  by  those  of  African  or  Indian  descent,  and  a 
thankless  office  they  have  of  it.  If  their  patient  sur- 
vives, it  is  ascribed  to  some  miraculous  intervention 
of  the  Virgin  ;  if  he  dies,  it  is  attributed  to  an  r;  par- 
donable want  of  skill  :  so  that  between  the  imputed 
miracle  in  the  one  case  and  inevitable  death  in  the 
other,  he  gets  but  little  credit  for  his  professional 
sagacity.  His  only  resource  in  all  critical  cases  is 
to  call  in  half  a  dozen  consulting  physicians,  and 
share  with  them  the  responsibility  of  the  issue.  I 
always  pity  a  consulting  physician  ;  he  must  approve 
what  has  been  done,  though  in  so  doing  he  often 
gives  the  lie  to  the  change  of  treatment  which  he 
directs.     But  let  that  pass. 

Wednesday,  April  8.  The  great  cathedral  was 
Crowded  at  an  early  hour  this  morning  to  witness 
the  ceremony  .of  the  "Banner."  As  the  organ  com- 
menced a  low,  mournful    air,  a   tall    priest,   robed    in 

black,    took    his   station    in    front  of  the   high   altar. 


248  DECK  AND  PORT. 


where   he  unfurled    from   its    staff  a  large  sombre 
banner. 

After  having  waved  it  for  a  few  minutes  in  front  of 
the  lights  on  the  great  altar — knocking  over  one  of 
the  candles,  which  I  suppose  went  for  Judas  Iscariot 
— he  faced  about,  and  with  his  long  train,  supported 
by  three  pages,  marched  down,  with  a  slow  stately 
step,  into  the  centre  of  the  cathedral.  Here  twenty- 
four  priests,  through  whose  files  he  passed,  and  who 
were  in  sable  robes,  with  dark  crowns  on  their  heads, 
fell  flat  with  their  faces  upon  the  pavement.  The 
banner  continued  waving  over  them  for  several  min- 
utes, while  the  low  tones  of  the  organ  died  away  on 
the  silent  air.  Several  of  these  prostrate  functiona 
ries,  when  their  eyes  met  each  other,  found  it  almost 
as  difficult  to  preserve  their  gravity  as  Cicero's 
augurs. 

The  banner  now  disappeared  through  one  of  the 
side  chapels  ;  the  priests  got  up,  replaced  their 
crowns,  and  the  spectators  departed.  Not  a  word 
was  spoken  during  the  whole  ceremony ;  what  it 
meant,  is  more  than  I  can  say.  I  made  repeated 
inquiries  of  those  present,  but  no  one  could  give  me 
any  information  beyond  the  fact  that  it  belonged  to 
Holy  Week.  I  must,  therefore,  refer  the  reader  to 
those  better  versed  than  myself  in  symbolic  worship 
for  an  interpretation  of  the  vision. 


SKETCHES   OF  LIMA.  249 

Thursday,  Atril  9.  At  twelve  o'clock  to-day  all 
the  bells  in  Lima  rung  out  a  simultaneous  peel,  and 
were  then  sent  to  Rome  to  be  blessed  by  the  Pope. 
They  will  return  again,  it  is  understood,  on  Satur- 
day, and  announce  their  arrival  from  their  respective 
steeples.  Their  visit  to  the  pontifex  maximus  must 
of  course  be  taken  in  a  metaphorical,  or  Picwickian 
sense.  It  is  a  constructive  journey,  such  as  our  hon- 
orable senators  take  at  the  inauguration  of  a  new 
president. 

As  the  bells  left  for  Rome  every  shop  in  Lima  was 
closed.  No  public  or  private  vehicle  was  seen  in 
any  street.  Even  the  donkeys,  with  their  water 
tanks,  disappeared  from  the  city  fountains.  Every 
man,  woman,  and  child  suspended  their  amusements, 
labors,  and  secular  cares.  The  dominoes  lay  un- 
touched, and  the  cue  of  the  billiard-table  stood  un- 
molested in  its  rack.  .Men  passed  each  other  in  the 
Streets  without  the  customary  salutations.  It  wis 
as  if  the  whole  city  had  been  suddenly  struck  into  a 
speechless  awe  and  reverence. 

This  was  intended  to  portray  an  appropriate  sense 
of  the  scenes  which  occurred  in  Jerusalem,  when 
redeeming  Love  underwent  the  agonies  of  the  Cross. 
Its  significance  lay  in  the  exhibition  of  a  seeming 
sympathy  with  the  sorrows  of  the  sufferer.  It  was 
a  silent  allegorical  tragedy,  in  which  each  one  found 
himself  an  actor.     To  me  no  other  exhibition  in  the 


250  DECK  AND  FORT. 


ceremonies  of  Holy  Week  had  so  much  moral  force. 
Silence  often  makes  itself  felt,  when  thunder  passes 
unheeded. 

Friday,  April  10.  All  good  Limaneans,  with  the 
president  and  his  cabinet  at  their  head,  made  last 
night  the  circuit  of  the  principal  churches.  In  each 
was  a  representation,  in  effigy,  of  some  scene  con- 
nected with  the  Crucifixion.  In  San  Lorenzo  was 
the  Last  Supper.  The  taole  was  spread  within  the 
chancel  in  front  of  the  high  altar,  and  was  loaded 
with  the  richest  viands  and  fruits,  while  each  plate 
had  its  bottle  of  wine  and  roll  of  bread.  A  profane 
epicure  might  have  forgotten  the  sacredness  of  the 
symbols  in  the  culinary  skill  and  taste  which  they 
displayed. 

In  the  church  of  San  Domingo  was  represented 
the  accusation  before  Pilate.  Beneath  the  high  altar 
sat  the  Roman  governor,  with  his  court  on  either 
hand ;  before  them  raved  the  accusers,  while  within 
stood  in  silent  meekness  the  divine  Victim.  Near 
Pilate  knelt  a  page,  with  a  bowl  of  water  in  one  hand, 
and  a  napkin  in  the  other,  that  this  arbiter  of  life  and 
death  might  cleanse  his  hands  of  guilt.  The  whole 
scene  betrayed  an  extravagance  in  attitude  and  emo- 
tion better  suited  to  the  drama  than  the  solemnity  of 
the  occasion. 

In  the  church  of  San  Francisco  the  slender  trees 


SKETCHES  OF  LIMA.  251 

01  Gethsemane  cast  their  still  shadows  over  the  kneel- 
ing form  of  the  Son  of  God.  By  his  side  stood  an 
angel  with  that  cup  which  might  not  pass  away.  In 
the  great  Cathedral,  the  summit  of  Calvary,  with  tin- 
cross  and  the  crowd,  rose  in  solemn  gloom.  In  San 
Pedro,  the  Roman  guard,  with  drawn  swords,  kept 
their  grim  watch  over  the  tomh.  The  moral  effect 
of  all  these  exhibitions  in  a  Protestant  community 
would  be  to  impair  the  awful  reality  :  and  even  here 
they  appeared  to  inspire  but  a  qualified  reverence. 
The  mass  gazed  as  a  curious  child  stops  in  its  play 
to  look  at  a  picture  that  has  momentarily  caught  its 
roving  eye. 

Saturday,  Atril  11.  The  great  band  of  musi- 
cians, connected  with  the  army,  passed  through  the 
principal  streets  of  Lima  last  eight,  playing  a  funeral 
wail.  The  subdued  strains  rose  through  the  silent 
air  mournful  as  melodies  from  out  the  grave.  This 
was  intended  to  be  significant  of  the  anxious  sorrow 
which  watched  around  the  tomb  where  Death  had 
temporarily  asserted  his  empire  over  the  Prince  of 
Life. 

At  an  early  hour  this  morning  the  church  of  San 
Augustine  was  fdled  to  overflowing  with  the  beauty 
of  Lima.  A  large  choir  and  orchestra  had  been 
brought  together  on  the  occasion.  The  music  com- 
menced in  strains  of  lamentation  and  grief;  and  at 


252  DECK  AND  PORT. 


last  burst  into  expressions  of  the  most  triumphant 
joy.  At  this  moment  the  bells  in  all  the  towers  of 
the  city,  and  which  had  been  silent  since  Thursday, 
rung  out  an  exulting  peal.  This  was  the  announce- 
ment of  the  Resurrection !  The  whole  assemblage 
fell  on  their  knees  and  joined  in  the  Hosanna  which 
seemed  to  shake  the  pillars  of  the  great  edifice. 

The  whole  scene  was  now  changed.  Throughout 
the  city  gladness  lighted  every  countenance,  and  the 
gayest  attire  took  the  place  of  the  gloomy  sables 
The  confectionaries,  the  fruit-stalls,  the  wine-shops, 
the  billiard-tables,  were  all  thrown  open,  and  were 
filled  by  crowds  giddy  with  the  excitement  of  the 
joyous  transition.  Mothers  played  with  their  infants  ; 
maidens  twined  jessamine-flowers  in  their  locks ; 
children  fired  off  their  crackers  ;  cripples  neglected 
their  crutches  ;  creditors  forgot  their  insolvent  debt- 
ors ;  and  even  the  barefooted  monk  passed  you  with- 
out soliciting  charity.  He  strode  on,  independent  as 
a  lord. 

Sunday,  April  12.  The  jubilation  continued 
through  the  whole  of  last  night.  Evening  found  the 
living  tides  of  the  city  upon  the  great  public  square. 
Here  every  species  of  trick  and  merriment,  with  the 
humor  of  the  hour,  convulsed  the  crowd  with  laugh- 
ter. All  distinctions  and  all  restraints  were  cast 
aside.     All  classes  and  all  colors  mingled  together 


SKETCHES   OF  LIMA.  253 

like  leaves  of  the  forest  in  the  whirl  of  the  autumnal 
winds. 

Some  were  fiddling,  some  dancing  ;  some  singing, 
some  shouting;  some  niggling,  some  nudging;  some 
declaiming,  some  drinking  ;  some  pilfering  nosegays, 
and  some  picking  pockets  ;  some  making  mischief, 
and  some  making  love.  Here  a  harlequin  turned 
somersets,  and  there  a  half-naked  rope-dancer  figured 
on  the  suspended  cord.  Here  a  Punch  and  Judy 
played  oft'  their  pugilistics,  and  yonder  a  puppy  and 
porcupine  bristled  and  barked.  Here  a  broken- 
headed  drum  flapped  its  roll,  and  there  a  cracked 
guitar  squeaked  its  discords.  Here  wit  ruled  the 
hour,  and  there  rum. 

Thus  passed  the  night  till  the  Sabbath  morn  threw 
its  broad  light  on  the  scene.  Thus  closed  Lent,  and 
thus  commenced  Easter-Sunday.  Thus  terminated 
the  ceremonies  of  Holy  Week, — begun  in  penance 
and  prayer,  and  ended  in  frolic  and  fun.  That  such 
a  celebration  can  substantially  promote  the  cause  of 
piety  and  the  proprieties  of  life,  must  surpass  the  be- 
lief of  any  one  whose  faith  has  not  lifted  the  ceremo- 
nies of  his  church  above  the  reach  of  human  falli- 
bility. 

Monday,  April  13.  The  climate  of  Lima  has  no 
extreme  variations.  The  mercury  on  Fahrenheit's 
scale  rarely  rises  in  summer  above  eighty,  and  rarely 

22 


254  DECK   AND  PORT. 


falls  in  winter  below  sixty-five.  The  prevailing  tem- 
perature is  about  seventy-five.  But  there  is  a  surpri- 
sing sensitiveness  in  the  inhabitants  to  these  slight 
variations.  Let  a  cooler  current  of  air  sweep  from 
the  Cordilleras,  and  you  will  encounter  everywhere 
the  ample  cloak  and  heavy  shawl.  You  hardly  feel 
the  change  yourself,  and  think  for  the  moment  you 
have  got  among  invalids. 

The  effect  of  the  climate  on  the  constitutional 
habits  of  the  European,  soon  betrays  itself  in  a  re- 
laxation of  his  energies.  He  loses  his  enterprise, 
enthusiasm,  and  flinty  endurance,  and  sinks  into  that 
dreamy  listlessness  which  pervades  the  great  mass. 
His  descendants  dwindle  in  intellect,  and  are  dwarfed 
in  person.  If  white,  his  complexion  becomes  bronzed; 
if  black,  it  is  bleached  into  hues  less  sable.  The  cli- 
mate acts  like  the  crucible  which  fuses  the  different 
metals  which  it  contains  into  one  mass. 

The  climate  acts  with  the  same  softening  and 
subduing  effect  on  the  force  and  ferocity  of  animals. 
The  dog  becomes  spiritless,  the  tiger  ceases  to  spread 
dismay  and  terror  when  he  leaves  his  lair,  and  the 
wild  bull  brought  within  the  arena,  has  to  be  goaded 
to  the  combat  by  a  system  of  refined  cruelty  and  tor- 
ture. No  animal  fights  save  in  his  own  defence,  and 
the  men,  if  roused  and  forced  to  action,  rarely  pursue 
an  enemy  beyond  the  limits  of  the  field  where  fortune 
has  favored  their  arms. 


SKETCHES   OF  LIMA.  255 

Tuesday,  April  14.  We  visited  again  to-day  the 
Franciscan  convent.  This  magnificent  establishment 
had  once  some  four  hundred  inmates,  and  an  income 
suited  to  the  easy  and  sumptuous  style  in  which  they 
lived.  But  in  the  Revolution  its  funds  disappeared, 
and  the  monks  sought  an  asylum  elsewhere.  We 
encountered  in  its  vacant  halls  but  one,  and  he  dart- 
ed out  upon  us  seemingly  to  frighten  away  an  Amer- 
ican lady  whom  we  had  in  our  company.  He  ap- 
peared, as  he  flitted  along  the  silent  corridors,  more 
like  a  dusky  ghost  than  aught  of  flesh  and  blood. 
His  long  robe  draped  his  person  ;  his  cowl  half  con- 
cealed his  wan  features  ;  his  thin  hands  held  a  cru- 
cifix ;  and  his  steps  glided  over  the  pavement  noise- 
less as  his  shadow.  He  was  here,  and  there  ;  now 
in  the  faint  light ;  now  in  the  shadow  of  the  wall ; 
now  in  his  cell ;  now  in  the  chapel,  and  then  sweep- 
ins  the  Ions,  dim  corridor.  You  saw  no  motion  of 
any  limb ;  you  heard  no  sound  ;  and  if  the  glance  of 
his  eye  fell  on  you,  it  was  but  for  a  moment. 

"  Beware !  beware  of  the  black  Friar, 

Who  flits  through  these  halls  of  stone, 
For  he  mutters  his  prayer  in  the  midnight  air, 

And  liis  mass  of  the  days  that  are  gone. 
His  form  you  may  trace,  but  not  his  face, 

"1  la  shadow'd  by  his  cowl  j 
But  his  eyes  may  be  seen  from  the  folds  between, 

And  they  seem  of  a  parted  soul." 


256  DECK  AND  PORT. 


Wednesday,  April  15.  The  most  intolerable  fea- 
ture of  a  legal  process  in  Peru  grows  out  of  the 
"  law's  delay."  A  foreigner  may  be  imprisoned  for 
weeks,  and  perhaps  months,  without  being  able  to 
secure  a  hearing  before  the  proper  tribunal.  If  he 
applies  to  the  functionary,  who  represents  his  coun- 
try at  this  court,  his  case  then  takes  a  diplomatic 
character,  and  wanders  back  and  forth,  in  shadowy 
shape,  while  moons  wax  and  wane.  His  case  is 
loaded  with  all  grievances,  piques,  and  prejudices, 
which  have  agitated  the  parties,  who  have  the  man- 
agement of  it,  through  a  series  of  years.  Till  at  last 
he  finds  it  quite  as  difficult  to  get  out  of  the  diplo- 
matic net  of  his  minister  as  the  clutches  of  Peruvian 
law. 

Now  our  commodores  have  a  very  brief  mode  of 
settling  these  difficulties.  They  man  their  batteries 
and  demand  the  releat3  of  the  prisoner  in  twenty- 
four  hours.  He  is  then  held  amenable  to  the  laws, 
which  it  is  alleged  he  has  offended.  If  innocent,  he 
is  rescued  from  false  imprisonment ;  if  guilty,  he 
pays  the  penalty.  There  are  here  no  stately  forms 
of  court  etiquette,  no  subscriptions  of  having  the 
honor  to  be,  with  high  consideration,  your  excel- 
lency's most  humble  nincompoop.  Instead  of  this  a 
demand  is  made,  founded  in  humanity  and  justice, 
and  enforced  by  argument  which  the  wise  will  not 
and  the  timid  dare  not  resist.     Such  is  one  of  the 


SKETCHES   OF  LIMA.  257 

advantages  of  having  a  navy.  Disband  it  and  our 
citizens  go  to  prisons  and  our  commerce  to  pirates. 

In  the  general  tumult  of  Saturday  night  one  of  our 
junior  officers  came  in  conflict  with  an  irregular  de- 
tachment of  the  military  police.  Weapons  were 
drawn ;  the  leader  of  the  file  was  disarmed  by  him, 
and  several  others  received  slight  wounds,  when  he 
was  overpowered  by  numbers,  and  led  off  to  the 
guard-house.  His  liberation  was  promptly  demanded 
by  Capt.  Du  Pont,  but  his  amenability  to  the  laws 
of  Peru,  of  course,  recognised.  The  demand,  after 
the  responsibility  of  the  case  had  been  shuffled  from 
the  intendente  to  the  prefect,  and  from  him  to  the 
criminal  judge,  was  complied  with. 

As  soon  as  it  reached  the  lawyers  of  Lima  that  a 
case  of  this  kind  had  got  into  their  courts,  they 
gathered  around  the  young  officer  like  forty  rival 
lovers  for  the  hand  of  the  same  lady.  Some  prof- 
fered their  services  for  half  the  usual  fee ;  some  for 
what  he  might  please  to  give,  and  several  said  they 
should  charge  him  nothing  except  for  stationery. 
Some  pressed  their  pretensions  through  the  legiti- 
mate character  of  their  diplomas ;  some  through 
their  relationship  to  the  judge  ;  and  one  quoted  half 
the  Justinian  code,  as  evidence  of  his  qualifications. 

But  they  were  all  a  little  too  disinterested  ;  and  it 
was  determined  to  let  the  case  go  by  default ;  and 
pay  such  damages  as  the  court  might  decree.  The 
22* 


258  DECK  AND  PORT. 


result  was  that  every  rascal  who  had  received  a 
scratch,  no  matter  from  whom,  on  Saturday  night, 
came  in  for  damages.  The  sagacity  of  the  judge  set 
the  claims  of  most  of  them  aside ;  but  enough  suc- 
ceeded to  mulct  our  young  officer  in  several  hun- 
dred dollars,  though  his  sword  had  as  little  to  do  with 
most  of  their  wounds  and  bruises  as  the  pen  with 
which  I  write  this.  An  offence  here  connected  with 
a  foreign  officer,  has  as  wide  a  responsibility  as  the 
magic  of  a  Salem  witch.  Hardly  a  hen  can  miscarry, 
but  the  loss  of  her  egg  is  traced  in  some  way  to  this 
military  Achan. 

But  yesterday  the  captain  of  an  American  mer- 
chantman was  imprisoned  at  Callao.  Commodore 
Stockton  immediately  inquired  into  the  circumstan- 
ces, which  were  these : — The  captain  had  come 
down  to  the  Landing  to  go  on  board  his  vessel,  when 
he  found  his  boat's  crew  in  conflict  with  a  party  on 
shore.  The  difficulty  originated  with  a  midshipman 
in  the  Peruvian  navy,  who  had  struck  one  of  the 
Americans.  The  captain  made  a  resolute  effort  to 
detach  his  crew  from  the  engagement,  when  the 
whole  were  overpowered  by  the  military  and  lodged 
in  prison. 

These  being  the  facts,  Commodore  Stockton  called 
in  person  on  the  governor  of  the  port  and  demanded 
the  captain's  release.  His  firmness,  and  his  ability 
to  back  his  demands  with  the  guns  of  the  Congress, 


SKETCHES  OF  LIMA.  259 

had  the  desired  effect.  The  captain  was  liberated. 
This  was  done,  not  to  rescue  the  captain  from  just 
amenability,  but  from  unjust  imprisonment.  When 
the  case  was  examined  into  by  the  proper  authorities 
he  was  acquitted  of  all  blame  :  still  his  innocency 
would  not  have  saved  him  from  a  vexatious  confine- 
ment but  for  this  resolute  proceeding  on  the  part  of 
the  Commodore. 

Thursday,  April  16.  The  Indian's  eyrie,  on  the 
summit  of  some  steep  and  lofty  mountain,  says  a 
traveller,  may  be  easily  passed  many  times  unnoticed 
by  the  stranger.  But  he  will  one  day  encounter  a 
swift-footed  Indian,  closely  followed  by  a  person  on 
a  well-accoutred  mule, — whose  geer  is  all  laden  with 
silver  ornaments  ;  and  the  rider,  who  sits  at  his  ease 
in  a  saddle  of  the  country,  with  a  rich  pillion,  wears 
a  large  brimmed  hat,  with  a  black  silk  cap  emerging 
to  view  at  the  ears  and  temples.  He  has  on  a  couple 
of  ponchos,  well  decorated  and  fringed: — his  brown 
stockings  are  of  warm  Vecuna  wool ;  and  the  heel 
of  his  small  shoe,  half  concealed  in  a  clumsy,  though 
costly  wooden  stirrup,  is  armed  with  a  prodigiously 
disproportioned  silver  spur,  with  a  large  tinkling 
roller,  used  to  keep  his  noble  animal  in  mind  that  she 
is  but  the  harbinger  of  death,  and  carries  on  her  back 
the  keeper  of  the  sinner's  conscience. 

This  minister  of  peace  to  the  miserable  hurries  to 


260  DECK  AND  PORT. 


shrive  the  soul  of  a  dying  Indian,  whose  abode,  like 
the  falcon's,  overlooks  the  paths  of  the  ordinary  way- 
faring man  ;  and  which,  when  descried,  seems  to  the 
sight  of  the  observer  underneath  to  be,  indeed,  the 
loftiest  earthly  point  between  the  ground  he  himself 
stands  upon,  and  the  heaven  for  which,  it  is  believed, 
the  anxious  and  fluttering  spirit  of  the  dying  man 
only  waits  the  curate's  absolution  and  blessing  to 
wing  its  immortal  flight.  When  all  is  over,  when 
the  absolving  benediction  has  been  pronounced,  and 
death  has  triumphed  where  life  took  its  last  stand,  the 
pale  pulseless  form,  wrapped  in  its  most  costly  vest, 
is  dressed  for  burial.  Wild-flowers  are  strewn  on 
the  dead  by  the  Indian  maiden,  while  the  cliffs  around 
mournfully  echo  back  the  funeral  dirge.  How  true 
is  human  instinct  to  the  awful  mystery  of  the 
grave ! 

Observing  an  immense  concourse  on  the  grand 
plaza,  I  elbowed  my  way  among  them,  and  soon  as- 
certained the  cause  of  the  rush  to  be  the  drawing  of 
the  public  lottery.  On  an  elevated  ample  platform 
were  seated  the  judges,  before  whom  revolved  three 
hollow  globes.  The  first  contained  the  billets  repre- 
senting the  prizes,  the  second  the  names  of  those  who 
held  tickets,  the  third  the  numbers  of  these  tickets. 
When  the  globes  stopped  revolving,  the  lads  station- 
ed at  each  drew,  through  a  small  aperture,  simulta- 
neously, a  billet.     One  contained  the  prize,  another 


SKETCHES  OF  LIMA.  261 

the  number  of  the  ticket,  the  third  the  name  of  the 
owner.  Every  heart  was  now  in  a  terrible  flutter  till 
the  number  and  name  were  announced ;  and  then  a 
shadow  fell  on  many  faces  that  were  bright  a  mo- 
ment before. 

The  largest  prize  was  a  thousand  dollars  ;  the  least 
was  a  silver  pitcher,  or  a  silver  unmentionable,  be- 
longing to  chamber  furniture,  and  which  was  dis- 
played without  the  slightest  sentiment  of  mirth.  A 
more  motley  crowd  than  those  whose  dreams  of 
wealth  were  here  dashed,  delusive  hope  never  brought 
together.  They  assembled  in  noise  and  mirth,  and 
separated  in  silence  and  sadness.  Such  a  scene  as 
this  the  grand  plaza  presents  on  the  afternoon  of 
every  Wednesday.  The  proprietor  of  the  lottery 
pays  the  state  annually  forty  thousand  dollars  for  his 
privilege.  The  tickets  are  one  real,  or  twelve  and  a 
half  cents  each.  They  who  cannot  buy  ten,  twenty, 
or  a  hundred,  can  buy  one.  In  this  lies  the  secret  of 
its  success  and  mischief.  It  finds  a  dupe  wherever 
it  can  find  a  fool  with  a  penny.  The  venders  of  these 
lottery  tickets  hawk  them  through  every  street  and 
lane,  and  from  the  stepstones  of  every  church  in 
Lima.  The  pious  signature  assumed  by  the  pur- 
chaser, shows  that  he  connects  his  hopes  of  success 
with  the  assurances  of  his  religious  faith.  No  one 
here  would  pit  a  cock  without  a  prayer  to  his  patron 
saint. 


262  DECK   AND  PORT. 


Friday,  April  17.  On  the  Sabbath  which  succeed- 
ed Holy  Week  I  went  to  the  cathedral  to  attend  wor- 
ship, and  found  it  closed  ;  continued  on  to  the  church 
of  San  Pedro,  and  found  that  closed  ;  turned  off  to 
the  church  of  San  Augustin,  and  found  that  also 
closed.  Observing  the  streets  full  of  people,  who 
were  moving  towards  the  broad  bridge  which  crosses 
the  Rimac,  I  concluded  that  there  must  be  some 
great  religious  festival  in  that  quarter,  and  followed 
on. 

The  crowds  continued  to  move  over  the  Rimac, 
but  instead  of  entering  any  church,  wound  off,  in 
solid  column,  through  the  rows  of  trees  which  shade 
its  left  bank.  I  at  last  inquired  of  an  intelligent  look- 
ing man  who  was  walking  at  my  elbow,  to  what  sa- 
cred spot  they  were  bound.  When,  with  a  look  of 
half  wonder  at  my  ignorance,  he  replied,  To  the  cor- 
rida de  toros ! — the  bull-fight !  I  turned  on  my  heel 
and  threaded  my  way  back,  with  some  difficulty, 
through  the  crowds  who  were  pressing  onward  to 
the  savage  spectacle.  Among  them  were  groups  of 
children  from  the  schools, — boys  in  gay  frocks,  and 
girls  in  white,  with  wreaths  of  flowers  around  their 
sunny  locks,  headed  by  their  teachers.  Monks  with 
their  beads,  mothers  with  their  daughters ;  infancy 
at  the  breast,  and  old  age  with  one  foot  in  the  grave ; 
all  chattering  and  laughing,  and  jostling  and  shout- 
ing, and  pressing  on  to  the  bull-ring,  on  the  Sabbath ' 


SKETCHES  OF  LIMA.  2G3 

Upon  inquiry,  I  found  that  these  bull-fights  former- 
ly took  place  on  Monday,  but  that  the  Archbishop  of 
Lima,  to  enable  the  laboring  classes  to  attend  them, 
had  changed  the  day  to  the  Sabbath.  They  are  a 
horrible  spectacle  at  best,  utterly  revolting  to  every 
sentiment  of  refinement  and  humanity  ;  and  the  so- 
cial and  moral  evils  which  they  inflict  would  be  suf- 
ficiently revolting  were  they  confined  to  secular  oc- 
casions, but  they  become  doubly  pernicious  when 
they  involve  such  an  outrage  on  the  sanctity  of  the 
Sabbath,  under  the  sanction,  too,  of  the  highest  ec- 
clesiastical functionary  in  the  state. 

Bull-fights,  as  conducted  here,  involve  very  little 
peril  and  suffering  except  to  the  poor  beast.  His 
antagonists  are  pretty  safe,  or  he  would  drive  them 
out  of  the  arena.  It  is  an  exhibition  of  craft  and 
cowardice  on  one  side,  and  courage  and  despair  on 
the  other.  Of  the  two,  the  bull  sustains  much  the 
nobler  part,  and  would  have  much  the  larger  share 
of  my  sympathy  and  respect.  If  men  must  fight  for 
the  amusement  of  their  fellows,  let  them  fight  one 
another.  If  the  death  of  one  don't  furnish  sufficient 
excitement,  then  let  the  other  be  shot  or  hung,  as  the 
taste  of  the  spectators  shall  suggest.  But  let  them 
not  catch  a  poor  beast,  torture  him  with  fagots  and 
fire,  skulk  themselves,  and  pick  him  t<>  death  with 
their  long  weapons,  and  then  insult  the  intelligence 


264  DECK  AND  PORT. 


of  the  community  by  calling  the  dastardly  act  an 
exhibition  of  chivalry  and  valor. 

It  is  no  wonder  the  ladies  in  Lima  are  deficient  in 
delicacy  and  moral  refinement,  accustomed  as  they 
are  from  their  childhood  to  such  savage  spectacles. 
It  is  but  justice,  however,  to  say,  that  there  are  some 
mothers  here  who  will  not  permit  their  daughters  to 
attend  them ;  nor  will  they  allow  them,  for  this,  or 
any  other  purpose,  to  disguise  themselves  in  the  saya  y 
manto.  There  was  one  righteous  man  in  Sodom,  and 
there  is  more  than  one  good  mother  even  in  Lima. 


205 


CHAPTER  IX. 

SKETCHES  OP    HiTA. 

Education  of  females. — marriages. — lapses  from  virtue. — the  sun- 
bet    BELL. SILK    FACTORY  IN  A  CONVENT. HABITS    OK    THE    INDIANS. 

THE  HALF  WEDLOCK. — BLIND  TEDLER. —  PROTESTANT  YOUTH  IN  LIMA. — 
RELIGION  OK  THE  LIMANIANS. INTRIGUES  AT  COURT. MODES  OK  LIV- 
ING.  THE    ZAMPAS. CHURCHES. — INDIAN     DOCTORS. — FRUITS    OF    TUK 

COUNTRY. OLD    SPANISH    FAMILIES. — MASSES    FOR    THE    REPOSE  OF  THK 

60UL. 

"  I  say  in  my  sliuht  way  I  may  proceed 
To  play  upon  the  surface  of  humanity  ; 
I  write  the  world,  nor  care  if  the  world  read, 
At  least  for  this  I  cannot  spare  its  vanity." 

Saturday,  AritiL,  18.  A  girl  here  at  the  age  of 
ten  or  eleven  is  as  far  advanced  in  her  social  and 
matrimonial  anticipations  as  she  is  with  us  at  seven- 
teen. She  expects  in  her  fourteenth  year  to  sway 
hearts,  as  the  moon  the  troubled  tide.  For  this  pe- 
riod she  trains  herself  with  an  ambition  far  beyond 
her  years  ;  and  when  it  arrives,  she  is  armed  with  all 
the  brilliant  weapons  of  beauty,  wit,  repartee,  and  a 
lively  self-possession.  Her  wit  never  wounds,  her 
repartee  never  gives  offence.  She  is  thoroughly 
unliable  in  all  her  sallies,  she  means  to  make  you 
think  well  of  her,  and  is  equally  anxious  that  yni 
should  think  well  of  yourself.  She  understands  how 
to  inspire  self-complacency  without  any  broad  flat- 

28 


2G6  DECK  AND  PORT. 


tery.     She  is  sportive,  but  it   is   with  dignity  ;  and 
will  sooner  excuse  a  liberty  than  a  slight. 

When  this  hey-day  of  life  has  been  sufficiently 
enjoyed,  she  marries,  not  from  having  fallen  in  love, 
but  for  the  sake  of  an  establishment.  If  her  husband 
devotes  himself  to  her,  she  is  generally  faithful ;  but 
if  he  spends  his  nights  in  clubs,  at  the  billiard  and 
card  table,  she  is  apt  to  permit  the  intimacy  of  some 
one  whom  she  ought  not  to  love.  This  is  rarely,  if 
ever,  followed  by  a  domestic  explosion.  She  feels 
secure  of  all  that  forbearance  and  silence  which  the 
most  jealous  regard  to  the  peace  and  reputation  of 
the  family  can  suggest.  With  us,  the  injured  party, 
though  first  himself  in  the  fault,  yet  in  his  resent- 
ment often  turns  his  own  hearth-stone  into  a  tomb. 
Guilt  never  fails  to  carry  with  it,  in  the  end,  its  own 
punishment.  There  is  a  serpent  in  the  cup  of  guilty 
pleasure,  whose  fang  will  inflict  wounds  on  which  the 
tears  of  repentant  anguish  will  yet  fall  big  and  fast. 

Sunday,  April  19.  There  is  one  religious  observ- 
ance in  Lima  which  reminds  the  traveller  of  the  call 
of  the  muezzin  from  the  minarets  of  Constantinople, 
when  he  summons  the  Mussulman  to  prayer.  When 
the  bell  of  the  great  Cathedral  tolls  the  departing 
sun,  every  one,  whether  on  foot,  in  his  curricle,  or  on 
horseback,  and  whatever  may  be  his  speed,  stops  and 
takes  off  his  hat.     The  gayest  look  grave,  and  the 


SKETCHES  OF  LIMA.  207 

serious  whisper  a  brief  prayer.  The  shopkeeper  sus- 
pends his  bargain,  the  billiard-player  lays  down  his 
cue  ;  the  gambler  folds  his  cards  and  reverently  rises. 
In  a  minute  the  bell  ceases  :  the  horseman  dashes  on, 
the  cue  and  cards  are  resumed,  and  Heaven  seems 
again  forgotten. 

Many  of  the  simple  artisans  ply  their  trades  out- 
side their  shops.  You  will  encounter  twenty  or 
thirty  shoemakers  driving  the  awl  in  a  single  court, 
and  as  many  tailors  pushing  the  needle  in  another ; 
while  a  third  is  rilled  by  milliners,  bleaching  and 
trimming  gipsy-hats  for  Indian  girls.  The  Limanian 
lady  seldom  wears  a  bonnet ;  she  prefers  the  manto  ; 
with  that  she  can  conceal  her  face,  save  the  peeping 
eye,  and  pass  unrecognised.  The  saya  or  skirt  of 
this  disguising  dress  is  not  the  work  of  her  own  sex; 
it  is  always  cut  and  made  by  the  same  hands  which 
fit  and  seam  the  coats  of  the  gentlemen.  What  can 
be  expected  of  a  nation  where  the  men  are  eng;iLr<'d 
in  making  petticoats  for  the  women  ?  Enterprises 
of  pith  and  moment  are  not  achieved  through  the 
stitches  of  that  garment.     But  let  that  pass. 

Monday,  April  20.  The  convent  of  San  Pedro, 
an  extensive,  costly  edifice,  has  been  converted  into 
an  establishment  for  raising  and  twisting  silk.  The 
few  monks  who  still  lingered  in  their  cloisters,  when 
they  saw  the  worms  slowly  winding  themselves  up 


2G8  DECK   AND  PORT. 


in  their  continuous  thread,  as  if  the  sole  object  of 
life  was  to  secure  an  undisturbed  exit  from  it,  con- 
cluding that  two  of  a  trade  could  never  agree,  picked 
up  their  rosaries  and  relics,  and  departed.  The 
worms  work  on,  and  wind  their  silk  sepulchres  as 
industriously  as  if  the  monks  who  have  gone  had 
left  behind  them  their  ghastly  mementoes  of  life's 
brevity. 

How  strangely  sounds  that  steam-engine  as  it  turns 
the  twisting  machinery,  and  throws  its  ceaseless  echoes 
around  among  these  chambers  once  dedicated  to  the 
spirit  of  silence  !  And  the  thread,  as  it  reels  itself  off 
from  the  cocoon,  seems  as  if  it  unwound  the  quiet  ex- 
istence of  some  recluse,  whose  life  was  here  "  rounded 
with  a  sleep."  These  threads  are  to  be  woven  into 
a  rich  tissue,  beneath  which  the  bounding  heart  and 
glowing  limb  will  but  faintly  indicate  the  penance 
and  vigils  which  once  reigned  in  these  gloomy  cham- 
bers, from  which  they  stream  to  the  light.  Such  are 
the  strange  mutations  to  which  the  enterprise  of  the 
age  brings  us.  A  convent  is  converted  into  a  facto- 
ry, its  skulls  into  steam-boilers,  and  its  beads  into 
bobbins  !  It  is  enough  to  wake  St.  Anthony  out  of 
his  sunless  sleep ! 

A  relic  can  no  further  dwindle 

Than  when  'tis  reeled  from  spool  or  spindle. 

Tuesday,  April  21.     I  have  encountered  no  class 


SKETCHES   OF  LIMA.  269 

of  persons  in  Peru  that  have  awakened  the  same  de- 
gree of  sympathy  and  interest  as  the  native  Indians. 
On  them  have  been  piled  misfortunes  that  would  have 
crushed  a  less  enduring  race.  Their  lands,  their  for- 
ests, and  their  streams  have  been  wrenched  from 
them  through  treachery  and  force.  The  mounds  in 
which  the  bones  of  their  forefathers  were  entombed, 
have  been  violated,  and  these  sacred  relics  exposed 
to  the  gaze  of  a  profane  curiosity.  These  are  wrongs 
against  which  his  untutored  nature  rebels,  and  which 
he  partially  avenged  in  the  frightful  scenes  of  the 
Revolution.  The  power  of  Spain  in  Peru  went  down 
like  a  wreck,  over  which  the  whelming  wave  rushes 
in  remorseless  triumph. 

The  Indians  on  the  coast,  born  among  Europeans, 
have  still  something  of  that  sedateness  which  is  char- 
acteristic of  their  race,  when  reared  under  the  influ- 
ences of  civilization.  But  those  from  the  interior, 
whose  cradles  were  swung  among  the  stupendous 
steeps  of  the  Andes,  have  a  stern,  wild  force,  which 
shows  where  their  home  has  been.  They  look  with 
scorn  on  the  tricks  of  the  toilet.  They  may  indeed 
wear  plumes  in  their  dark  hair,  but  they  are  from  the 
pinions  of  some  dai.'ng  bird  that  has  battled  with  the 
mountain  storm,  or  whose  rush  has  been  over  the 
cataract's  plunging  verge.  Still,  they  are  in  a  great 
measure  free  from  ferocity  and  disguised  revenge. 
They  are  magnanimous  as  conquerors,  and  patient 
23* 


270  DECK   AND  PORT. 


as  captives.     They  never  lose  their  equanimity  in 
good  or  ill  fortune. 

Wednesday,  April  22.  Flowers  here  play  an  im- 
portant part  in  love  matters.  If  a  lady  presents  a 
gentleman  with  a  rose  in  the  morning,  it  is  significant 
of  the  fact  that  he  has  not  yet,  at  least  in  her  imagin- 
ation, passed  into  the  yellow  leaf.  But  if  she  pre- 
sents it  to  him  in  the  evening,  there  is  no  hope  for 
him,  unless  he  can  rejuvenate  himself.  These  floral 
gifts  at  the  anniversary  of  the  lady's  birthday,  fly 
about  thick  as  Cupid's  arrows.  They  are  graceful 
advances  when  presented  by  gentlemen,  and  delicate 
responses  when  given  by  ladies. 

The  Indian  girl  has  less  reserve  in  her  love  recog- 
nitions. She  sends  a  pretty  doll  on  a  nice  little 
couch,  covered  with  white  jessamine  flowers.  This 
is  a  broader  intimation  than  that  given  through  the 
rose  by  the  Spanish  lady ;  but  it  proceeds  from  a 
heart  quite  as  guileless  and  chaste.  If  I  must  con- 
fide in  the  purity  and  fidelity  of  either,  let  it  be  in 
the  one  who  thus  embodies  the  instincts  of  her  sex  in 
these  mimic  miniatures  of  life.  Yet  with  all  this  seem- 
ing delicacy  in  an  affair  of  the  heart,  the  Spanish  lady 
indulges  in  a  latitude  of  speech  that  would  quite  dis- 
turb female  modesty  with  us.  Her  allusions  are  as 
broad  as  are  the  exhibitions  of  folly  and  vice.  She 
speaks  of  a  man's  mistress,  or  a  woman's  paramour, 


SKETCHES  OF  LIMA.  271 

just  as  freely  as  she  would  of  their  carrier-pigeons, 
and  with  just  about  as  little  surprise"  or  virtuous  in- 
dignation. She  seems  to  consider  it  neither  a  hiuh 
crime  nor  a  pitiable  weakness  ;  but  one  of  those  for- 
tunes which  mysteriously  connect  themselves  with 
the  conditions  of  humanity.  When  she  weds,  she 
will  probably  need  the  same  charitable  construction, 
and  she  will  be  pretty  sure  to  receive  it  from  her 
family  and  friends.  They  will  deprecate  and  resent 
as  suicidal  folly,  any  public  demonstrations  of  domes- 
tic disquietude.  The  husband,  if  a  foreigner,  is  told 
that  these  are  the  habits  of  the  country ;  if  a  native, 
he  needs  no  such  information. 

Thursday,  April  23.  When  a  young  female  con- 
sents to  become  the  mistress  of  a  man  here,  she  re- 
quires of  him  a  certificate  that  he  will  not  marry 
without  her  consent.  This  certificate  she  deposites 
with  the  Bishop  of  Lima,  and  purchases  a  dispensa- 
tion for  the  irregularity  involved  in  the  compact. 
Should  the  man,  from  weariness  or  any  other  motive, 
attempt  to  effect  a  marriage  arrangement  with  an- 
other person,  without  her  consent,  she  calls  at  once 
on  the  bishop,  who  threatens  the  delinquent,  if  he 
perseveres,  with  the  highest  pains  and  penalties  of  the 
church. 

He  is  thus  reduced  to  the  necessity  of  either 
making   an  adequate  settlement  on  the  person  with 


272  DECK   AND  PORT. 


whom  he  entered  into  the  illicit  arrangement,  or  of 
foregoing  entirely  his  matrimonial  purposes.  The 
object  of  the  bishop  in  this  matter  is  to  prevent  a 
dishonored  female,  with  perhaps  three  or  four  chil- 
dren, from  being  thrown  on  the  world  without  any 
means  of  support.  Whether  this  motive,  even  when 
its  object  is  achieved,  can  justify  the  semi-official 
sanction  of  the  compact,  is  another  question.  But 
this  I  may  say,  it  often  prevents  the  heartless  liber- 
tine from  selfishly  abandoning  one  for  whose  guilt 
and  ruin  he  is  measurably  responsible.  If  he  don't 
like  the  conditions,  then  let  him  decline  the  arrange- 
ment ;  it  is  at  best  only  a  passport  to  guilt  and 
sorrow." 

Friday,  April  24.  I  encountered  to-day  a  blind 
pedler,  of  whom  there  are  several  in  Lima.  He  car- 
ried two  baskets,  the  one  filled  with  elegant  toys,  the 
other  with  ribbons,  thread,  needles,  and  pins.  He 
knew  where  to  find  each  article,  and  the  price  which 
he  should  get  for  it.  Even  the  quality  of  the  ribbon 
could  not  deceive  his  delicate  touch ;  nor  could  the 
coin  which  he  received  in  exchange,  palm  itself  off 
for  more  than  its  value.  Heaven  guide  and  protect 
thee,  thou  poor  blind  pedler !  We  all  feel  our  way 
through  this  dim  world  in  the  hope  of  reaching  a 
brighter  and  better. 

There  are  a  great  many  families  in  Lima  who 


SKETCHES  OF  LIMA.  273 

have  no  cooking  done  in  their  houses  through  the 
year.  They  send  out  to  the  cook-stands  which  are 
sprinkled  all  over  the  city.  They  thus  save  the  ex- 
pense of  extra  servants  and  fuel.  It  is  another  mode 
of  disguising  poverty,  and  of  avoiding  the  necessity 
of  breaking  up  their  establishments.  When  a  Span- 
ish family  of  some  pretension  becomes  reduced,  and 
it  is  necessary  to  sell  the  carriage,  the  coat-of-arms 
and  every  clue  to  its  previous  owner,  are,  as  far  as 
possible,  effaced.  As  a  last  resort,  the  household  ser- 
vants are  allowed  to  hire  themselves  out,  and  bring 
back  a  portion  of  their  earnings  to  their  owner. 
When  these  die,  or  desert,  the  last  string  in  the  old 
harp  is  broken.  If  a  tone  lingers  still,  it  is  so  sad 
you  would  not  hear  it  breathe  again.  There  is  some- 
thing in  the  condition  of  a  man  who  is  now  poor  and 
who  has  seen  better  days,  with  which  only  the  most 
callous  levity  can  trifle.  It  was  only  out  of  Eden 
that  Adam  felt  in  its  full  force  his  irreparable  loss. 

Saturday,  ArniL  25.  Foreign  youth  who  come 
to  Lima  from  Protestant  countries  to  engage  in  busi- 
ness, often  disappoint  the  fondest  expectations  of  their 
friends.  Cast  adrift  from  the  moral  and  religious  re- 
straints which  they  felt  at  home,  and  having  no  re- 
spect for  the  solemn  pageantries  of  religion  which 
they  encounter  here,  they  fall  easy  victims  to  the 
vices  of  the  metropolis.     Hardly  one  in  ten  escapes 


274  DECK   AND  PORT. 


the  giddy  maelstrom,  down  which  they  are  whirled 
from  light  and  hope.  Their  ruin  would  at  least  be  re- 
tarded were  the  institutions  of  the  Protestant  faith 
permitted  here.  But  the  Roman  hierarchy,  which 
cries  aloud  for  freedom  of  conscience  in  the  United 
States,  here  tramples  it  down  with  Bastille  ferocity. 
If  the  masses  in  the  Catholic  church  here  are  bigoted 
and  intolerant,  their  spiritual  superiors  have  made 
them  so.  The  depth  of  the  forest  wakes  or  sleeps 
with  the  tempest  that  walks  over  it. 

The  frailties  of  the  Limanian  female  seem  not  to 
extinguish  her  sympathies  with  distress.  She  is  often 
at  the  couch  of  pain  with  that  tender  assiduity  which 
we  can  hardly  dissever  from  a  virtuous  life.  Her 
watchful  care  is  not  denied  to  the  stranger,  or  to 
those  utterly  incapable  of  rewarding  it.  This  sur- 
viving virtue,  amid  the  wreck  of  others,  is  to  be 
ascribed  perhaps  to  that  forbearance  which  her  frail- 
ties experience.  With  us  she  would  be  abandoned 
by  her  relatives,  and  delivered  over  by  her  former 
associates  to  irremediable  crime  and  shame.  The 
result  of  this  is  a  fearful  proclivity  in  guilt  and  ruin. 
Whether  virtue  is  best  vindicated  by  a  denunciation 
which  never  relents,  or  a  forbearance  which  tries  to 
save,  is  a  question  which  would  not  long  hold  me  in 
suspense.  No  heart  is  wholly  bad;  it  has  some  string 
in  it  that  will  vibrate  if  rightly  touched.     He  who 


SKETCHES  OF  LIMA.  275 

suffered  on  the  cross  died  to  open  the  door  of  mercy, 
not  to  shut  it. 

Sunday,  April  26.  The  religion  of  the  Limani- 
ans  is  entitled  to  a  charitable  judgment.  The  mass 
of  the  people  are  not  responsible  for  the  pageantries 
with  which  it  is  invested.  Their  uninformed  faith 
may  be  perplexed  among  shadows,  but  it  often  pene- 
trates to  the  substance.  Among  the  frivolous  there 
are  not  a  few  with  whom  religion  is  an  earnest  real- 
ity. Among  the  skeptical,  many  may  be  found  who 
have  cast  the  anchor  of  their  hopes  within  the  veil. 

We  may  denounce  the  proscriptive  polity  of  their 
church,  but  we  should  not  denounce  them.  They 
worship  in  a  temple  which  the  zeal  of  ages  has  rear- 
ed to  their  hands.  They  found  its  doors  barred  to 
other  religious  persuasions,  and  it  is  requiring  too 
much  to  expect  that  they  will  at  once  throw  back  its 
bolts.  This  can  be  realized  only  through  the  influ- 
ence of  that  higher  light  which  the  Bible  is  now 
pouring  into  the  recesses  of  every  sectarian  shrine. 
Even  our  own  Protestant  altars  are  now  visited  by 
jays  which  have  long  been  shut  out,  or  permitted  to 
fall  in  only  faint  fragments.  The  spirit  of  intoler- 
ance which  has  pervaded  our  churches,  has  been  a 
source  of  vast  moral  mischief.  The  road  to  heaven 
is  covered  with  the  footprints  of  thousands,  who  have 
been  won  to  it  by  the  accents  of  Christian  love. 


276  DECK  AND  PORT. 


Monday,  April  27.  When  a  political  intrigue 
explodes  in  Lima,  the  first  inquiry  is  for  the  woman 
that  sprung  the  mine.  She  is  generally  found  to  be 
some  courtesan,  whose  success  lies  more  in  the  pow- 
er of  her  personal  charms  than  her  force  of  intellect. 
Her  carriage  in  Lima  and  her  rancho  at  Chorillos, 
sufficiently  attest  her  means,  and  the  honor  of  those 
favors  through  which  she  beguiles  the  unwary  states- 
man into  her  plans  and  purposes. 

If  the  plot  fails,  her  coadjutors  may  atone  for  their 
political  profligacy  with  their  lives  ;  but  she  lives  on, 
and  may  yet  ensnare  the  judges  that  doomed  them. 
She  has  a  tact  that  eludes  sagacity,  and  a  perseve- 
rance that  seems  to  challenge  obstacles.  She  makes 
her  way  where  the  maturest  counsels  are  disconcert- 
ed, and  triumphs  where  the  most  daring  courage  is 
foiled.  She  detects  at  a  glance  the  unguarded  point 
in  the  most  crafty,  and  turns  his  weapons  against 
himself.  Her  intrigues  sometimes  result  in  benefit 
to  the  state.  The  same  mysterious  hand,  that  traces 
in  ominous  characters  the  doom  of  the  obnoxious  or 
incapable  minister,  often  executes  its  own  sentence. 

All  this  indicates  a  truth,  which  a  thousand  other 
facts  corroborate,  that  the  women  of  Lima  are  far  in 
advance  of  the  men  in  sagacity  and  force  of  purpose. 
In  the  frightful  conflicts  of  the  Revolution,  when 
men's  hearts  failed  them,  they  were  in  disguise  on 
horseback  among  the  troops,  nerving  the  timid,  and 


SKETCHES  OF  LIMA.  277 

rallying  the  brave.  No  political  party  can  long 
maintain  its  ascendency  in  Peru  that  has  not  their 
confidence  and  support.  They  will  make  it  ridicu- 
lous with  their  raillery,  or  odious  with  their  denun- 
ciation. 

Tuesday,  April  28.  Out  of  Lima,  the  masses  in 
Peru  subsist  mostly  on  a  vegetable  diet.  The  flour 
of  maize,  wheat,  peas,  beans,  barley,  rice,  and  arrow- 
root, are  made  into  a  soft  pap,  or  mush,  which  is 
sweetened  exceedingly  with  sugar  or  molasses.  This 
is  the  great  Peruvian  dish  called  "  masamora,"  and 
which  is  the  edible  staple  in  every  family.  It  pro- 
duces sleekness  without  strength,  and  fatness  with- 
out fire.  They  who  subsist  upon  it  retain  their  flesh 
till  they  pass  forty  ;  then  begin  to  dwindle  away  ;  at 
sixty  they  are  extremely  thin  ;  and  at  seventy  have 
hardly  substance  enough  to  cast  a  shadow. 

A  mother  here  never  nurses  her  child  when  she  is 
angry,  for  fear  of  imparting  to  it  a  choleric  tempera- 
ment. If  unable  to  perform  herself  this  agreeable 
maternal  function,  she  procures  a  black  nurse,  but 
never  an  Indian.  The  vital  tide  from  a  red  skin  she 
feels  assured  will  give  it  a  fiery  irascible  disposition. 
She  considers  the  milk  of  the  black  cow  cooler  than 
that  of  any  other,  and  anticipates  a  mild  and  amiable 
temper  in  her  children  as  she  pours  it  into  their  por- 
ringers.    I  like  this  idea  of  not  nursing  a  child  when 

24 


278  DECK   AND  PORT. 


angry.  It  is  another  check  on  peevishness  and  pas- 
sion. It  would  not  be  amiss  were  the  superstition 
universal.  Of  all  objects  in  the  world  the  most  pain- 
ful to  me  is,  a  mother  nursing  and  scolding  at  the 
same  time.  It  is  worse  than  thunder  out  of  a  soft 
April  cloud. 

Wednesday,  April  29.  There  are  in  Lima  two 
associations  which  are  very  attentive  to  strangers. 
A  member  of  one  is  called  a  pillo,  a  member  of  the 
other  a  pillofero.  The  first  is  a  genteel  loafer,  the 
second  a  dexterous  gambler.  So  you  have  your 
choice  between  a  good-humored  graceless  uninvited 
guest,  and  a  refined  cheat.  The  one  is  satisfied  with 
your  table  and  floating  change,  the  other  goes  for 
your  purse  and  its  entire  contents.  The  one  plun- 
ders you  through  your  vanity,  the  other  through  your 
bad  fortune. 

Priests  here  not  only  guard  the  prerogatives  of 
their  order,  but  the  purity  of  their  Spanish  blood.  A 
high  ecclesiastic,  of  Indian  or  African  descent,  is  not 
to  be  found  in  their  ranks.  Such  a  lineage  would 
debar  him  the  sacred  functions  of  the  altar.  Those 
who  exercise  them  are  as  jealous  of  the  Castilian 
blood  which  flows  in  their  veins,-  as  an  old  Hidalgo 
furbishing  his  family  coat-of-arms.  They  inculcate 
equality  among  their  communicants,  and  make  them 
kneel  together  on  the  same  stone  pavement,  but  they 


SKETCHES   OF  LIMA.  279 

stand  aloof  in  the  immemorial  privileges  and  dignity 
of  their  order.  They  have  inferiors  who  mix  with 
the  masses :  some  of  these  are  devoted  men ;  they 
encounter  incredible  hardships  in  propagating  their 
faith.  Their  self-denying  zeal  may  well  be  a  lesson 
to  Protestants. 

The  most  amusing  being  in  Lima  is  the  mestizo — 
the  offspring  of  the  European  and  Indian.  His  wit 
and  humor  never  fail  him.  He  will  convulse  you 
with  laughter,  and  be  himself  quite  sedate.  It  puz- 
zles you  that  a  bird  of  such  dazzling  plumage  should 
fly  out  of  the  shadows  of  such  a  sombre  tree.  JThe 
zambo,  half  Indian  and  half  African,  has  a  broader 
humor.  His  allusions  are  under  no  restraints  from 
sentiments  of  delicacy,  or  respect  for  the  presence  of 
the  other  sex.  I  have  seen  one  of  them  keep  a  street 
crowd  in  a  roar  by  the  hour. 

Zambos  are  generally  employed  as  household  ser- 
vants. The  children  naturally  fall  into  their  care, 
and  become  early  accustomed  to  the  language  sug- 
gested by  their  prurient  imaginations.  Love  in- 
trigues are  with  them  a  never-failing  source  of  en- 
tertainment. Even  the  "  peccadillos"  of  their  parents 
are  sometimes  made  a  subject  of  mirth.  The  adven- 
tures of  the  mother  are  thus  made  known  to  the 
daughter.  Her  prudent  counsels,  after  that,  sound 
hollow  indeed.  It  is  not  to  be  wondered  at  that  she 
should   turn   away  from   the  precept  to  imitate  the 


280  DECK  AND  FORT. 


example.  Many  families,  and  among  them  some  of 
the  first  in  Lima,  have  thus  been  plunged  in  irre- 
trievable humiliation  and  grief.  The  cause  may  be, 
and  generally  is,  carefully  concealed.  But  an  un- 
seen wound  may  rankle  as  deeply  as  that  which  has 
no  covering.  The  light  which  a  mother  should  de- 
pend upon  to  guide  the  steps  of  her  daughter,  is  that 
which  is  reflected  from  her  own  example.  If  shadows 
rest  on  this — if  it  falls  only  in  transient  flakes,  seen 
one  moment  and  lost  the  next,  like  the  firefly's  fitful 
beam — it  will  only  serve  the  more  to  bewilder  and 
betray.  What  the  mother  would  have  her  daughters, 
she  should  be  herself.  It  is  her  example,  and  not  her 
precepts,  that  shapes  their  social  and  moral  being. 

Thursday,  April  30.  In  the  native  Indians  is 
found  the  productive  industry  of  Peru.  The  prod- 
ucts of  their  gardens  and  fields  roll  in  a  ceaseless  tide 
into  the  markets  of  Lima.  Their  jewelry  and  pon- 
chos, wrought  with  little  aid  from  machinery,  rival 
in  elegance  some  of  the  most  finished  productions  of 
art ;  while  their  sturdy  arms  fill  with  ceaseless  echoes 
the  deep  silver  mines  of  the  Andes.  The  roads 
which  they  constructed  under  their  Incas  still  run 
along  the  jagged  steeps  of  the  Cordilleras ;  their 
swinging  gardens  still  throw  their  fragrance  on  the 
wind  ;  and  through  their  aqueducts  still  rolls  with  re- 
freshing force  the  mountain  stream.     But  many  of 


SKETCHES   OF  LIMA.  281 

their  richest  plains  and  glens,  Spanish  rule  and  indo- 
lence have  turned  into  sterility. 

An  Indian  boy  from  the  interior,  domesticated  in 
a  European  family  in  Lima,  will  at  first  show  some 
alacrity  in  duty  ;  but  when  he  enters  the  summer  of 
youth,  he  flies  back  to  his  mountain  home.  And  the 
Indian  girl,  who  has  little  else  to  do  than  carry  a  mat 
to  church,  on  which  her  mistress  may  kneel  at  mass, 
when  the  levities  of  childhood  are  passed,  turns  an 
earnest  eye  to  the  picturesque  glades  of  the  Andes. 
The  sequestered  hut,  the  wild  fruits  and  flowers 
which  bloom  around  it,  the  stream  that  ripples  past 
the  door,  the  lama-skin  couch,  and  one  by  whom  she 
can  be  loved  and  protected,  float  through  her  young 
dreams,  and  off  she  flies  for  the  reality  of  this  roman- 
tic vision.  Her  mistress,  the  next  time  she  goes  to 
mass,  looks  for  her  Indian  girl,  and  begins  to  think 

"  That  love  in  simplest  hearts  hath  deepest  sway." 

Friday,  May  1.  The  most  tender  and  melancholy 
associations  here  are  those  which  crowd  upon  one, 
seated  at  twilight  by  the  burial  mounds  of  those  who 
were  once  sole  possessors  of  the  soil.  The  yellow- 
leaved  willows  wave  in  the  still  moonlight  ;  their 
whispers  are  in  mournful  unison  with  the  dirge  of 
the  Indian,  which  still  floats  over  the  graves  of  his 
fathers,  and  melts  into  harmony  with  the  voice  of  the 
cuculi,  that  responds  in  plaintive  notes  from  the  gua- 
24* 


282  DECK   AND   PORT. 


rango  grove.  Every  thing  around  you  breathes  of 
the  past,  and  of  the  ruins  which  time  and  disaster 
have  left  behind. 

"  Thou  unrelenting  Past ! 
Strong  are  the  barriers  round  thy  dark  domain, 

And  fetters,  sure  and  fast, 
Hold  all  that  enter  thy  unbreathing  reign. 

Far  in  thy  realms  withdrawn, 
Old  empires  sit  in  sullenness  and  gloom, 

And  glorious  ages  gone, 
Lie  deep  witliin  the  shadow  of  thy  womb." 

The  swinging  hammock  is  the  sofa  of  the  Lima- 
nian  lady.  This  airy  couch,  twined  of  beautiful 
grass,  and  died  into  the  varied  hues  of  the  rainbow, 
swings  in  the  cool  corridor,  while  flowers  of  loveliest 
tint  throw  around  it  their  fragrant  breath.  In  the 
midst  of  these  odors  the  fair  one  takes  her  siesta, 
while  her  cheek  is  flushed  with  the  triumph  that 
floats  along  her  rosy  dream.  Sleep  on  while  yet 
thou  mayest ;  a  morrow  comes  when  these  visions 
of  pride  and  happiness  will  take  to  themselves  wings 
and  fly  away.  Care  and  sorrow  will  cast  their 
shadows  upon  thee,  and  thou  must  walk  in  their 
gloom  down  to  the  dreamless  sleep  of  the  grave. 
But  there  are  visions  which  will  not  depart ;  there 
are  flowers  that  will  never  die ;  but  they  belong  to 
the  spirit-land. 


SKETCHES' OF  LIMA.  283 

Saturday,  May  J.  The  cathedral,  and  indeed  all 
the  principal  churches  of  Lima,  impress  you  more 
through  the  magnificence  of  their  proportions  than 
any  richness  of  architecture.  They  are  generally 
built  of  a  coarse  freestone,  stuccoed  and  painted. 
Their  domes  and  towers  rise  on  the  distant  eye,  in 
gaudy  grandeur,  but  betray  their  poverty  on  a  closer 
vision.  The  statues  which  adorn  them  are  generally 
coarse  and  frail  in  the  material,  and  without  taste  in 
the  execution.  Over  every  altar  is  a  statue  of  the 
Virgin  in  the  hues  of  life.  Her  costume  is  light  or 
dark,  as  the  occasion  is  merry  or  sad ;  but  the  skirt 
of  her  dress  always  spreads  to  the  right  and  left  like 
a  great  fan.  This  depression  is  given  it,  so  that 
the  priest  officiating  at  the  altar,  when  he  looks  up, 
may  see  her  benignant  face. 

Sunday,  May  3.  In  the  church  of  San  Domingo 
is  a  statue,  in  which  there  is  an  attempt  to  represent, 
under  the  similitudes  of  the  human  form  and  coun- 
tenance, the  Supreme  Jehovah.  The  idea  is  taken 
from  those  ancient  sculptures  which  embody  the  at- 
tributes of  the  Olympian  Jove.  The  analogy  be- 
tween those  statues  which  Christianity  has  been 
made  to  sanctify,  and  those  which  she  cast  off  with 
the  mythology  of  paganism,  is  painfully  true.  We 
have  here  the  Venus  of  the  Greeks  in  the  likeness  of 
the  blessed  Virgin,  and  the  Jupiter  of  the  Romans  in 


284  DECK  AND  PORT. 


the  representations  of  the  Supreme  Being.  Mercu- 
ry, in  the  character  of  the  Angel  of  the  Annunciation, 
brings  tidings  from  heaven ;  and  Pluto,  under  the 
thunder-scarred  front  of  Satan,  reigns  over  hell.  The 
unpurified,  instead  of  wandering  on  the  gloomy  Styx, 
now  wander  in  purgatory,  till  some  Charon,  in  the 
person  of  an  absolving  priest,  ferries  them  over  to 
the  fields  of  purple  light.  I  know  the  force  of  visi- 
ble symbols,  and  the  facility  and  seeming  advantage 
of  impressing  man  through  his  outward  senses  ;  but 
something  is  due  to  the  dignity  of  truth  and  the 
sanctity  of  that  spiritual  revelation  which  God  has 
made  of  himself,  and  above  all  to  that  fearful  man- 
date— "  Thou  shalt  not  make  to  thyself  any  graven 
image,  nor  the  likeness  of  any  thing  that  is  in  the 
heaven  above,  or  in  the  earth  beneath,  or  in  the  wa- 
ter under  the  earth :  thou  shalt  not  bow  down  to 
them  nor  worship  them." 

Monday,  May  4.  The  aborigines  of  Peru  still 
wear  a  bean  at  the  temple  as  a  charm  against  dis- 
ease, and  still  adhere  to  their  herb  doctors.  These 
simple  disciples  of  Esculapius,  laden  with  their  barks, 
balsams,  roots,  and  herbs,  traverse  the  steeps  and 
glens  of  the  Andes,  descend  into  the  plains  of  Chili, 
and  the  pampas  of  Buenos  Ayres.  If  they  seldom 
cure,  they  have  the  satisfaction  of  knowing  that  they 
never  kill.     But  as  the  legitimate  province  of  medi- 


SKETCHES   OF  LIMA.  285 

cine  is  to  amuse  the  patient,  while  nature  cures  the 
disease,  perhaps  the  result  of  their  practice  will  not 
suffer  by  a  comparison  with  that  of  their  more  learn- 
ed brethren.  It  is  much  wiser,  in  ordinary  cases,  to 
hang  a  bean  to  the  temple,  than  to  put  a  pill  into  the 
stomach.  Nature  never  complains  of  the  bean,  but 
she  is  often  very  much  puzzled  to  know  what  to  do 
with  the  pill.  Were  the  ghosts  of  those  who  have 
fallen  victims  to  medicine  to  appear  on  this  earth, 
there  would  be  a  more  terrible  shaking  among  the 
medical  profession,  than  there  was  in  the  valley  of 
Ezekiel's  vision  of  dry  bones. 

Tuesday,  May  5.  The  winds  in  Peru  prevail  for 
nine  months  in  the  year  from  the  south.  These 
cooler  currents,  mingling  themselves  with  warmer 
airs,  produce  what  is  called  the  Scotch  mist.  It  instils 
itself  into  your  garments  slowly,  but  in  a  continued 
exposure  will  completely  saturate  them.  It  is  expe- 
rienced most  at  night,  and  disappears  beneath  the 
slanting  rays  of  the  sun.  Strangers  are  apt  to  disre- 
gard it ;  but  the  natives  put  on  their  ponchos. 

The  traveller  from  a  northern  zone  finds  the  sea- 
sons quite  reversed  here.  Spring  opens  with  Sep- 
tember. When  the  farmer  with  us  is  gathering  in 
liis  last  harvest,  the  seeds  of  the  first  are  sown  here. 
When  the  birds  forsake  our  groves  for  winter  quar- 
ters,   they    are   here   selecting    their  vernal    mates. 


286  DECK   AND  PORT. 


When  the  flowers  with  us  perish,  they  are  here  just 
opening  their  bright  eyes  to  the  sun.     Nature  never 
leaves  herself  here  without  a  witness,  nor  society 
without  its  signals,  as  seen  in  this  monk  and  Peru 
vian  farmer. 


Monk.  Peruvian  Farmer. 

I  encountered  two  things  in  the  markets  of  Lima 
rather  peculiar  in  their  way.  The  first  was  a  chicken 
quartered  as  if  it  had  been  a  sheep  or  bullock,  and 
sold  in  parts  to  suit  purchasers ;  each  part  bringing 
the  price  of  a  whole  one  with  us.  The  second  was 
a  monk  carrying  a  little  tray,  with  a  crucifix  em- 
bossed upon  it,  which  every  one  was  invited  to  kiss, 
and  pay  for  the  privilege  what  he  might  please  to 
put  in.  One  cast  into  it  a  biscuit,  another  a  sausage, 
a  third  a  potatoe ;  so  the  monk  went  off  with  quite  a 
breakfast,   and   will   be   back   assuredly   to-morrow 


SKETCHES   OF  LIMA.  287 

morning  to  have  it  filled  again  in  the  same  way.  It 
was  the  first  time  I  ever  saw  the  privilege  of  a  kiss 
purchased  with  a  potatoe.  But  a  monk  is  seldom  at 
a  loss  for  an  expedient. 

Of  all  the  fruits  in  Peru,  the  most  esteemed  is  the 
chirimoya.  It  grows  rather  larger  than  our  pippin, 
has  a  rough  exterior,  but  is  filled  with  a  soft  pulp, 
which  resembles  in  taste  our  strawberries  and 
cream.  It  is  scooped  out  with  a  teaspoon,  melts  in 
the  mouth,  and  gushes  over  the  palate  in  a  luscious 
tide.  The  tree  which  bears  this  fruit  requires  seven- 
teen years  before  its  seminal  buds  ripen  into  their 
precious  burden. 

Next  comes  the  granadilla,  the  fruit  of  the  passion 
flower.  It  resembles,  in  shape,  size,  and  smoothness 
of  texture,  the  egg  of  our  domestic  fowls.  You  break 
the  shell,  and  swallow  the  rich  mucilaginous  pulp 
with  its  delicate  seeds.  The  taste  has  no  analogies 
in  any  other  fruit.  At  first  it  seems  to  want  charac- 
ter or  palatable  emphasis,  but  it  wins  upon  you,  till 
that  which  appeared  a  defect  becomes  an  excellence. 
It  is  just  such  a  fruit  as  the  seeming  sacredness  of  its 
origin  would  lead  you  to  expect.  It  brings  you  back 
in  your  sensations  to  that  fount  which  nursed  your 
infant  life. 

Close  on  this  follows  the  palta-pear,  with  its  large 
central  stone  resembling  that  of  the  peach.  This 
fruit,  which  is  protected  by  a  hard,  thin  rind,  has  the 


288  DECK  AND  PORT. 


consistence  of  thick  cream,  and,  with  salt  sprinkled 
on  it,  is  used  upon  bread  as  an  excellent  substitute 
for  butter.  I  do  not  wonder  that  the  epicurean 
monk,  in  his  desire  to  lift  the  flagging  imaginations 
of  his  hearers  to  the  fruitions  of  the  better  land,  rep- 
resents the  chirimoya,  the  granadilla,  and  palta,  as 
nodding  over  its  crystal  streams.  They  have  that 
which  never  entered  even  the  imagination  of  Maho- 
met, when  he  spread  the  verdant  lawns  and  wove  the 
ambrosial  bowers  of  his  pictured  heaven. 

Wednesday,  May  6.  The  therapeutics  of  the 
Limanians  are  as  peculiar,  when  applied  to  their  tem- 
pers, as  their  bodies.  They  never  drink  cold  water 
when  angry,  from  an  apprehension  that  it  conduces 
to  hepatic  diseases.  In  their  opinion  it  chills  and 
contracts  the  biliary  excretories,  prevents  a  natural 
flow  of  the  bile,  and  leads  to  congestion.  The  phy- 
sician often  attributes  the  death  of  his  patient  to  this 
fatal  indiscretion.  He  would  sooner  give  an  angry 
man  alcohol,  than  a  glass  of  iced- water. 

The  old  Spanish  families,  who  were  swept  away 
by  the  Revolution,  resembled  the  Mussulman  in  many 
of  their  characteristic  habits.  They  were  remarka- 
ble for  their  commercial  probity,  their  love  of  ease, 
their  hatred  of  innovation,  their  intolerance  of  the 
slightest  indignity,  their  pride  of  lineage,  and  their 
indulgence  in  sensual  gratifications.     Their  dwellings 


SKETCHES  OF  LIMA.  289 

were  stately  castles,  where  the  indolent  lounged,  the 
gay  revelled,  the  sad  were  beguiled  of  their  sorrows, 
and  the  poor  forgot  their  poverty.  But  they  have 
passed  away,  save  a  few  who  remain,  like  the  sturdy 
trees  of  a  forest,  which  the  hurricane  hath  swept. 
The  few  who  remain  are  rarely  engaged  in  any  im- 
portant enterprises.  What  capital  they  have  is  often 
locked  up,  where  they  forego  the  interest  for  the 
safety  of  the  principal.  There  is  one  old  Spaniard 
who  has  now,  and  has  had  for  years,  eight  hundred 
thousand  dollars  packed  away  in  the  vaults  of  a  large 
commercial  house  here.  An  interest  of  twenty  per 
cent,  would  not  draw  it  from  its  stronghold.  Revo- 
lution and  rapacity  have  wrecked  his  confidence  ;  and 
he  is  in  this  respect  only  one  among  thousands.  The 
result  is,  the  commerce  of  Peru  has  fallen  mostly 
into  the  hands  of  the  English  and  Americans.  Their 
daring  spirit  will  carry  it  on,  though  revolutions  suc- 
ceed each  other  strong  and  fast  as  the  breaking 
waves  of  ocean.  But  the  storm  is  past,  and  the  great 
deep  is  rocking  itself  to  rest. 

The  Spanish  lady  has  but  little  book-knowledge, 
but  a  most  observant  sagacity.  She  has  no  acquire- 
ments in  letters,  but  reads  character  as  by  intuition. 
She  never  essays  an  argument,  and  is  never  at  a  loss 
for  a  pertinent  reply.  She  is  ardent  in  her  tempera- 
ment, and  yet  rarely  loses  her  equanimity.  She  is 
alive  to  adulation,  and  is  never  overawed  by  menace. 
25 


290  DECK  AND  PORT. 


She  is  punctilious  in  all  the  forms  of  religion,  and 
persevering  in  all  the  perils  of  an  intrigue.  Her 
mornings  are  spent  with  her  confessor,  her  evenings 
with  her  lover. 

Masses  for  the  repose  of  the  soul  are  inculcated  by 
the  clergy  as  an  indispensable  religious  duty.  They 
are  a  source  of  vast  revenue  to  the  curate,  and  often 
involve  the  relatives  of  the  deceased  in  ruinous  ex- 
penses. It  is  considered  worse  than  cruel  to  leave 
in  purgatory  the  soul  of  a  relative,  which  might  be 
relieved  through  the  efficacy  of  the  mass.  The  dic- 
tates of  religion  and  nature  are  therefore  both  en- 
listed in  securing  a  punctual  performance  of  this 
pious  obligation.  It  is  an  expensive  duty,  and  the 
burden  often  falls  where  it  is  least  able  to  be  borne. 

The  poor  widow,  believing,  as  she  is  taught,  that 
masses  can  relieve  the  condition  of  her  deceased 
child,  mitigate  its  sufferings,  and  hasten  its  transit 
from  purifying  flames  to  perfect  bliss,  parts  with  her 
last  shilling,  as  well  she  may,  and  even  sells  her 
mourning  weeds  for  this  purpose.  The  author  of 
"  Three  years  in  the  Pacific"  says  : —  "  I  saw  in  Pi- 
sco an  Indian  boy,  who  had  been  sold  by  the  curate 
in  one  of  the  interior  provinces,  to  pay  for  the  requi- 
site number  of  masses  for  the  rest  of  his  father's 
soul !"  There  is  a  company  in  Lima,  instituted  un- 
der the  sanction  of  the  archbishop,  which  engages, 
for  the  consideration  of  a  real  a  week  from  any  poor 


SKETCHES  OF   LIMA.  291 

family,  to  purchase,  at  the  death  of  a  member  of  the 
household,  a  sufficient  number  of  masses  to  liberate 
the  deceased  from  the  pains  of  purgatory.  This 
company  has  a  hundred  applicants  where  the  life- 
insurance  corporation  has  one.  Masses  for  the  dead, 
claiming  as  they  do  to  reach  the  condition  of  the  de- 
parted soul,  cast  into  insignificance  every  thing  this 
side  of  their  object,  and  leave  nothing  for  a  supersti- 
tious faith  to  desire  beyond  it.  The  human  imagina- 
tion cannot  conceive  of  a  more  tremendous  eccle- 
siastical engine. 

Thursday,  May  7.  The  pleasures  of  our  visit  to 
Lima  were  not  a  little  enhanced  by  the  arrangements 
and  hospitalities  of  Commodore  Stockton.  He  took 
ample  apartments  in  the  elegant  hotel  which  opens 
on  the  grand  plaza,  where  he  had  his  own  table  and 
attendants.  We  met  here  not  only  the  officers  of 
the  Congress,  but  the  first  gentlemen  in  Lima.  These 
entertainments  were  free  of  ostentation,  and  that 
parade  in  which  the  heart  is  lost  in  the  forms  of 
etiquette,  and  were  on  a  scale  in  keeping  with  the 
rank  and  ample  means  of  the  individual  who  dis- 
pensed them.  They  have  had  the  eflect  not  only  to 
strengthen  friendship  among  ourselves,  but  to  win 
the  good  opinion  and  favor  of  those  whose  prominent 
position  here  gives  them  an  influence  over  the  char- 
acter of  our  foreign  relations. 


292  DECK   AND  PORT. 


The  gentlemen  connected  with  the  Alsop  House 
have  also  contributed  largely  to  the  pleasures  of  our 
visit  here.  We  shall  long  remember  in  connection 
with  this  hospitable  mansion  the  kind  attention  of 
Mr.  McCall,  Mr.  Foster,  and  our  worthy  Consul. 
Their  liberality,  ample  means,  and  sterling  integrity 
are  a  rock  on  which  the  American  name  may  safely 
repose  at  Lima. 

The  time  had  come  for  me  to  leave  Lima,  and 
take  up  my  quarters  again  on  board  the  Congress. 
I  took  a  seat  in  the  diligence  just  starting  for  Cal- 
lao,  and  which  was  already  pretty  full  with  other 
passengers.  But  I  had  the  advantage  of  not  re- 
quiring a  great  deal  of  room,  and  so  squeezed  in. 
Opposite  to  me  sat  a  fat  Peruvian  lady,  whose  huge 
fan,  which  threatened  my  nose  as  much  as  her  broad 
face,  was  in  a  constant  dash  to  create  a  breath  of 
air,  while  her  flesh  shook  at  every  jar  as  if  it  would 
break  from  its  moorings.  Two  lap-dogs,  one  under 
either  flank,  pushed  out  their  panting  noses  with 
many  ineffectual  attempts  to  extricate  themselves 
from  the  heat  of  their  smothered  condition ;  but 
were  rebuffed  by  a  slap  from  the  lady's  hand,  which 
was  too  fat  to  hurt  them  but  for  the  massive  rings 
on  her  fingers,  in  which  flashed  gems  enough  to  stud 
a  sultan's  snuff-box.  She  wore  no  bonnet  or  broad 
gipsy  hat  to  protect  her  from  the  rays  of  the  sun, 
which  broke  through  the  open  crevices  in  the  roof 


SKETCHES  OF  LIMA.  293 

of  the  diligence;  and  indeed  she  needed  none,  for 
the  heavy  puffs  of  her  cigar  rolled  up  there,  and 
hunj;  over  her  head  in  a  thick  floating  cloud. 

On  one  side  of  me  sat  an  officer  of  the  Peruvian 
army,  in  full  uniform.  His  chapeau,  tasselled,  plumed, 
and  covered  with  gold  lace,  rested  on  his  knees,  and 
exposed  the  heavy  black  wig,  in  which  each  hair  had 
been  made  to  take  its  particular  place.  His  thick 
coat,  with  its  massive  embroidery,  was  buttoned,  not- 
withstanding the  heat,  so  close  over  his  chest  and  up 
to  the  neck,  that  it  seemed  to  dispute  with  his  stock 
the  office  of  supporting  the  chin.  His  pantaloons, 
down  which  flowed  a  broad  stream  of  gold  lace, 
were  straightened  and  stretched  in  every  thread  by 
the  short  straps  under  the  boot,  which  might  have 
lifted  his  feet  from  the  floor,  but  for  the  ponderous 
spurs  which  projected  far  behind  the  heel  in  a  shaft, 
at  the  end  of  which  rattled  a  roller  in  the  shape  <>f  a 
circular  saw.  Not  a  smile  or  emotion  of  any  kind 
once  disturbed  the  fixedness  of  his  bronzed  features. 
He  sat  crank  and  motionless  as  a  statue,  save  the 
bony  hand  which  now  and  then  gave  another  twist 
to  his  moustache,  which  curled  its  horns  into  the 
corners  of  his  mouth.  But  for  this  slight  motion,  he 
might  have  been  taken  for  one  of  those  old  heroes 
whom  Egyptian  art  more  than  three  thousand  years 
ago  embalmed  into  immortality. 

On  the  other  side  of  me  sat  a  middle-aged  native, 
25* 


294  DECK  AND  PORT. 


in  a  white  fringed  poncho,  a  large  Guyaquil  hat,  and 
figured  trowsers.  '  An  old-fashioned  ring  was  con- 
spicuous on  his  finger,  and  the  remnants  of  a  gold 
mounting  still  lingered  on  the  top  of  his  cane.  His 
features  were  sharp  and  prominent ;  and  he  had  a 
remarkable  strabismus  of  his  eyes,  which  seemed  to 
be  trying  to  look  into  each  other  across  the  bridge  of 
his  nose.  On  his  knees  he  carried  an  article  of 
chamber  furniture,  which,  though  manufactured  of 
silver,  shall  be  nameless  here. 

Having  occasion  to  light  a  cigar,  which  required 
the  use  of  both  his  hands  to  manage  the  flint  and 
steel,  which  he  carried  in  his  pocket,  he  placed  the 
unmentionable,  without  saying  a  word,  in  the  lap  of 
the  passenger  next  him,  who  happened  to  be  the 
captain  of  an  American  merchantman,  and  who  as 
quickly  thrust  it  back  on  the  knees  of  its  owner, 
with  the  ejaculation,  "  Carry  your  own  teapot." 
The  eyes  of  the  proprietor  flashed  fire  into  each 
other,  but  not  a  word  was  said.  The  officer  gave 
his  moustache  another  twist,  the  fat  lady  fanned  her- 
self as  before,  but  the  two  other  lady  passengers 
seemed  to  be  not  a  little  surprised  at  the  rudeness  of 
the  American ;  neither  of  them  smiled,  nor  seemed 
to  perceive  the  least  impropriety,  or  the  slightest 
shade  of  the  ludicrous  in  the  conspicuous  position 
which  the  unmentionable  occupied.  With  us,  two 
ladies  so  situated,  would  have  jumped  out  of  the 


SKETCHES  OF  LIMA.  295 

stage,    if    not    through  the    door,   then    through   a 
window. 

Better  at  once  to  fly  the  sight, 
Than  stay  to  perish  with  affright 

Friday,  May  8.  We  were  all  again  on  board, 
and  watching  for  the  appearance  of  the  steamer 
from  Panama.  Seven  months  had  elapsed,  and  we 
had  received  no  intelligence  from  home,  and  could 
expect  none  now  through  any  government  mail. 
Indeed,  our  government  has  no  mail  arrangements 
in  the  Pacific.  Once  in  two  or  three  months  a 
packet  is  dispatched  to  Chagres  with  a  mail,  which 
finds  its  way  over  the  isthmus  to  Panama,  and  there 
goes  soundly  to  sleep.  For  matter  of  reaching  its 
destination,  it  might  as  well  be  in  the  moon. 

Commodore  Stockton  had  dispatched  Mr.  Beale  and 
Mr.  Norris  to  the  United  States,  with  instructions  to 
join  him  by  the  nearest  practicable  route  in  the  Pa- 
cific. The  line  of  steamers  between  the  West  India 
islands  and  Chagres,  and  between  Panama  and  Cal- 
lao,  had  not  then  been  completed,  and  it  was  there- 
fore extremely  doubtful  whether  they  would  attempt 
to  reach  us  by  this  route.  The  probability  seemed 
to  be  they  would  take  the  route  by  New  Orleans,  and 
across  the  continent  to  Mazatlan,  and  thence  to  Cal- 
ifornia. 

In   the  midst  of  these   doubts,  the  steamer  threw 


296  DECK   AND  PORT. 


her  black  mass  within  the  bright  line  of  the  horizon. 
"  There  she  comes  !"  ran  in  quick  whispers  through 
the  ship.  As  she  neared  us,  the  all-absorbing  ques- 
tion was,  whether  the  secretary  of  the  commodore 
was  in  her.  On  this  depended  our  last  and  only 
hope  of  letters  from  home.  She  passed  us  at  no 
great  distance ;  but  we  tried  in  vain  to  discover, 
through  our  glasses,  the  individual  for  whom  we 
were  looking.  No  sign  of  such  a  person  appeared 
among  the  few  passengers  who  paced  her  deck.  I 
went  below  ;  I  had  seen  enough  of  steamers,  and 
never  desired  to  see  another.  The  third  cutter  was 
called  away,  and  directed  to  proceed  to  the  steamer ; 
but  that  seemed  only  blotting  out  the  last  ray  of  pos- 
sibility. 

In  twenty  minutes,  an  officer  rushed  below  with 
the  surprising  intelligence  that  the  secretary  of  the 
commodore  was  in  the  boat  alongside.  I  was  not 
long  in  reaching  the  deck,  and  could  hardly  credit 
my  own  eyes  when  I  saw  him  come  over  the  gang- 
way ;  and  still  less  when  he  placed  in  my  hands  some 
twenty  letters  from  my  family  and  friends.  Our  ad- 
vices were  within  about  thirty  days  from  the  United 
States.  The  commodore  received  a  large  mail ;  Capt. 
Du  Pont,  and  nearly  all  the  officers,  got  letters  from 
home.  For  this  intelligence,  with  files  of  papers 
from  the  press,  we  were  indebted  to  the  arrangement 
of  Commodore  Stockton,  carried  through  at  his  pri- 


SKETCHES   OF  LIMA.  297 

vate  expense.  We  spent  the  greater  part  of  the 
night  in  reading  our  letters  and  penning  answers  to 
them,  as  we  were  to  sail  the  next  day  for  the  Sand- 
wich Islands.  These  details  may  not  be  interesting 
to  some,  especially  those  who  have  not  been  absent 
from  home  a  week  without  intelligence  ;  but  let  more 
than  half  a  year  of  their  brief  life  circle  round  with- 
out any  information,  and  they  will  appreciate  the  sig- 
nificance of  such  seeming  trifles.  The  surest  source 
of  sympathy  is  found  in  an  experience  of  the  same 
calamity. 

The  Incas  of  Peru,  who  invested  their  imperial 
sway  with  the  mandates  and  sanctions  of  a  supreme 
theocracy,  are  in  their  graves.  Their  palaces  and 
temples  remain  ;  and  in  these  vast  monuments  are 
shrined  the  evidences  of  their  departed  grandeur  and 
power.  The  solid  blocks  of  porphyry  which  pave 
the  great  public  way  from  Quito  to  Cuzco,  and  the 
table-land  of  Desaguadero,  still  invite  the  footsteps 
of  the  moving  masses,  and  still  roll  back  the  sun- 
beams in  showering  gold. 

The  dominion  of  the  usurper  who  entered  this  peace- 
ful realm  with  the  cross  and  chain,  has  at  length  been 
broken.  It  lies  in  ruins,  amid  penitent  tokens  of  guilt 
and  sorrow,  around  the  sacred  ashes  of  the  Incas.  The 
fiery  deluge  of  revolution  which  has  swept  this  fair 
land  since,  has  also  passed  away.  The  calm  hearts 
of  two  millions  of  freemen  remain.     They  bend  the 


298  DECK  AND  PORT. 


knee  to  no  iron  despotism,  no  consecrated  pageant 
of  power.  They  have  rights  which  they  assert  in 
the  unrestricted  freedom  of  the  elective  franchise. 
Their  progress  to  constitutional  freedom  and  repose 
has  been  tumultuous  and  wild,  but  they  are  within 
sight  of  their  goal,  and  will  reach  it  as  assuredly  as 
the  wave  of  the  rolling  deep  its  destined  strand. 

But  our  anchors  are  up,  our  courses  set,  and  we 
are  away  for  other  shores. 

Land  of  the  Incas,  fare  thee  well  1 

For  thee  my  fancy  twines 
A  rarer,  richer  coronel 

Than  glitters  in  thy  mines, — 
A  circlet  where  each  jewel  flings 
A  ray  that  blasts  the  hope  of  kings. 


299 


CHAPTER  X. 

PASSAGE  FROM  CALLAO  TO  HONOLULU. 

DEPARTURE  FROM  CALLAO. — THE  RUM  SMUGGLER. — SUNSET. — SEA-BIRDS 

A  SAILOR'S  DEFENCE. GENERAL  QUARTERS SPIRIT  RATION. THE  SAIL- 
OR AND  RELIGION. THE  FLAG. — SAGACITY  OF  THE    RAT. THE  CLOUD. 

CALMS    AND    SHOWERS. — RELIGIOUS    TRACTS. CONSTELLATIONS. — TRADE 

WINDS. — CONDUCT  OF  THE  CREW. — MOON  IN  THE  ZENITH. — LAY  SERMON. 
FUNERAL. LAND  HO  ! 

"  Uuzza !  for  Otaheite !  was  the  cry, 
As  stately  swept  the  gallaiU  reeael  by, 

The  breeze  spring  up,  the  lately  flapping  sail 
Extends  its  arch  before  the  growing  gale." 

Saturday,  May  9.  We  rousted  our  anchors  this 
afternoon  from  the  bed  in  which  they  have  slumber- 
ed for  the  last  six  weeks,  and  stood  out  to  sea  from 
the  bay  of  Callao.  The  breeze  freshened  as  the  sun 
set,  and  before  our  mid- watch  was  out,  only  the  rock 
of  San  Lorenzo  was  seen  lifting  its  naked  peaks  into 
the  light  of  the  moon. 

Farewell,  Callao !  I  have  seen  quite  enough  of  your 
destitution  and  dirt,  your  pickpockets  and  parrots, 
your  fish  and  your  fleas,  your  brats  and  your  buz- 
zards. I  wonder  not  that  nature  in  sore  discrust  sunk 
your  progenitor  from  the  light  of  the  sun  ;  and  unless 
you  reform,  you  may  expect  to  share  the  same  fate. 
Through    your    chambers    the  dolphins   will    sport; 


300  DECK  AND  rORT. 


your  forsaken  harps  will  thrill  beneath  the  wild  fin- 
gers of  the  mermaid,  while,  far  above,  the  hoarse 
wave  pours  on  the  rocks  your  death-dirge.  The 
sea-gull  only  will  know  the  place  of  your  rest,  and 
only  the  poor  pelican  mourn  that  you  are  not. 

Sunday,  May  10.  Divine  service :  officers  and 
crew  all  present.  Subject  of  the  sermon,  the  temp- 
tations of  the  sailor.  A  chaplain  in  the  navy  has 
one  advantage  over  his  brethren  on  land.  He  has 
his  parishioners  in  the  most  compact  of  all  possible 
forms,  and  every  one  present  when  he  officiates.  In 
making  his  official  visits  he  has  not  to  ride  around 
among  five  hundred  families  located  at  all  points  of 
the  compass.  He  cannot  stir  without  coming  in 
contact  with  them.  But  he  has  this  disadvantage ; 
in  the  vicissitudes  of  a  sea  life  they  are  extremely 
apt  to  break  away  from  his  constraining  influence. 
They  may  be  brought  back  again,  but  it  is  too  often 
through  the  deepest  self-inflicted  humiliation. 

I  was  called  down  from  Lima  to  see  a  sailor  who 
was  supposed  to  be  dying.  As  I  came  to  the  ham- 
mock in  which  he  was  lying,  he  told  me  he  did  not 
think  he  should  live,  and  that  he  felt  unfit  to  die. 
He  made  a  free  and  frank  confession  of  the  errors  of 
his  life,  and  desired  me  to  pray  that  he  might  be  for- 
given. I  tried  to  lead  his  thoughts  to  the  cross  and 
to  the  fountain  of  Christ's  blood.     To  these  his  con- 


PASSAGE   FROM  CALLAO  TO   HONOLULU.  301 

trition  and  solicitude  quickly  turned.  He  seemed 
not  to  doubt,  in  his  infinite  need,  their  full  sufficiency. 
I  prayed  with  him ;  he  earnestly  responded,  and  so 
did  his  messmates,  who  stood  silently  grouped  about 
his  hammock.  Sailors  well  know  what  is  involved 
in  that  awful  transition  which  we  undergo  in  death. 
They  never  trifle  with  the  event  itself,  however  heed- 
less they  may  be  in  the  indulgences  which  lead  to  it. 

Monday,  May  11.  We  have  a  fine,  steady  wind 
on  our  larboard  quarter.  It  has  carried  us,  with  the 
aid  of  a  strong  current,  during  the  last  twenty-four 
hours,  two  hundred  and  sixty  miles.  This  good  for- 
tune, however,  cannot  last.  We  must  part  with  the 
wind  as  we  approach  the  equator,  and  perhaps  before. 
But  sufficient  to  the  day  is  the  evil  thereof.  It  is 
much  wiser  rightly  to  enjoy  the  blessings  of  the 
present,  than  to  yield  ourselves  to  anxieties  about  the 
contingencies  of  the  future. 

We  have  a  beautiful  sunset.  The  air  is  serene, 
and  the  blue  circle  of  the  sky  rests  in  tranquil  soft- 
ness on  the  utmost  verge  of  the  ocean.  The  whole 
realm  of  waters  seems  cradled  in  its  limitless  sweep. 
The  rays  of  the  descending  orb  lie  along  the  gently 
heaving  billows  in  lines  of  level  light.  The  clouds 
which  o'ercanopy  his  couch  of  repose,  are  robed  in 
purple  and  gold;  while  the  long  vistas  which  open 
through  them,  seem  as  soft  avenues  to  the  spirit-land. 

20 


302  DECK  AND  PORT. 


"  Methinks  it  were  no  pain  to  die, 
On  such  an  eve,  when  such  a  sky 

O'ercanopies  the  West 
To  gaze  my  fill  on  yon  calm  deep, 
And,  like  an  infant,  fall  to  sleep 

On  earth,  my  mother's  breast. 

"  There's  peace  and  welcome  in  yon  sea 
Of  endless  blue,  tranquillity. 

The  clouds  are  living  things ; 
I  trace  their  veins  of  liquid  gold, 
T  see  them  solemnly  unfold 

Their  soft  and  fleecy  wings. 

"  These  be  the  angels  that  convey 
Us  weary  children  of  a  day — 

Life's  tedious  journey  o'er — 
Where  neither  passions  come,  nor  woes, 
To  vex  the  genius  of  repose 

On  Death's  majestic  shore." 

Tuesday,  May  12.  We  have  now  leisure  to  look 
back  as  well  as  forward.  Our  crew  conducted  them- 
selves remarkably  well  at  Callao.  Our  boats  were 
in  constant  communication  with  the  shore,  without 
an  officer  in  them.  And  yet,  during  six  weeks,  no 
disturbances  took  place,  and  only  one  or  two  cases  ol 
intoxication  occurred.  One  attempt  was  made  by  a 
hand  in  the  third  cutter  to  smuggle  off  a  skin  of  rum. 
It  was  discovered  by  the  officer  who  overhauled  the 
boat  as  she  came  alongside.  An  effort  was  made  to 
find  its  owner,  but  no  one  would  acknowledge  the  ill- 


PASSAGE   FROM  CALLAO  TO   HONOLULU.  303 

gotten  thing.  As  the  crew  of  the  boat  must  have 
been  cognizant  of  the  fact,  they  were  informed  by 
Capt.  Du  Pont,  that  unless  the  name  of  the  offender 
was  given  up,  they  would  all  be  punished.  They 
were  given  an  hour  to  decide  what  should  be  done. 
Before  its  expiration  three  of  the  crew  gave  in  the 
name  of  the  smuggler ;  and  he  paid  the  penalty, 
which  involved  a  loss  of  the  contraband  article  and 
the  infliction  of  a  severe  chastisement.  We  have  no 
laws  with  us  which  are  a  dead  letter. 

Wednesday,  May  13.  Our  wind  has  veered  still 
further  aft,  and  consequently  fills  fewer  of  our  sails  ; 
but  we  are  running  before  it  at  the  rate  of  nine  and 
ten  knots  the  hour.  The  sky  is  covered  with  light, 
fleecy  clouds,  through  which  the  sun's  rays  melt 
without  any  intensity  of  light.  The  ocean  has  a 
long,  undulating  swing,  like  that  of  some  vast  mass 
which  has  been  seeking  for  ages  to  rock  itself  to 
rest,  but  is  prevented  by  some  invisible  power  that 
has  decreed  against  its  repose. 

Thirty  more  of  the  crew  to-day  voluntarily  relin- 
quished their  spirit-ration.  They  considered  it  a 
source  of  mischief.  A  sailor  attached  to  one  of  our 
frigates  was  court-martialed  for  an  attempt  to  break 
open  the  spirit-room.  His  defence  before  the  court 
was  ingenious,  to  say  the  least  of  it.  The  govern- 
ment, he  said,  had  given  him  two  tots  of  grog  during 


304  DECK  AND  PORT. 


the  day,  and  a  third  by  way  of  splicing  the  main- 
brace.  The  wardroom  steward  had  given  him,  for 
some  service  he  had  rendered,  two  more,  and  these 
five  had  made  him  crazy.  It  was  not  him,  he  said, 
but  the  tohisky  which  was  in  him  that  had  made  the 
assault  on  the  spirit-room.  And  now,  as  the  govern- 
ment had  administered  to  him  more  than  half  of  this 
whisky,  the  government  should  bear  half  the  respon- 
sibility of  the  offence.  He  therefore  prayed  that  one 
half  of  the  lashes  which  this  offence  merited  might 
be  given  to  the  government,  and  the  other  half  he 
would  take  himself. 

There  is  a  volume  of  argument,  in  this  defence, 
against  the  whisky-ration.  It  is  a  shame  for  the 
government  to  render  a  sailor  half  intoxicated,  and 
then  punish  him  for  becoming  wholly  so.  It  is  the 
first  glass,  and  not  the  last,  on  which  your  indigna- 
tion should  light.  This  whisky-ration  has  done  evil 
enough  in  the  service  ;  let  it  be  consigned  to  perdi 
tion,  where  it  belongs. 

Thursday,  May  14.  The  birds  which  followed  us 
from  the  coast  have  returned ;  but  several  boobies, 
who  had  probably  lost  their  reckoning,  circled  around 
our  masts  at  sunset.  As  twilight  deepened,  they 
perched  on  our  yards,  and  were  in  a  few  minutes 
sound  asleep.  They  might  have  been  easily  cap- 
tured, but   sailors   are  not  very  partial   to  such  tro- 


PASSAGE  FROM  CALLAO  TO   HONOLULU.  305 


phies.  There  is  something  in  their  name  which  they 
do  not  like,  and  which  seems  to  react  on  the  valor 
of  the  captor.  Give  them  a  tiger,  and  they  will  storm 
his  jungle  with  only  such  weapons  as  they  can  pick 
up  on  the  way.  But  a  booby,  that  can  harm  no  one, 
and  whose  stupidity  seems  to  have  suggested  his 
name,  is  allowed  to  go  unmolested.  The  weakest 
man  in  the  community  has  generally  the  fewest  de- 
tractors, while  an  intellectual  giant  will  always  have 
a  pack  at  his  heels.  There  is  more  honor  in  striking 
at  a  lion,  than  there  is  in  killing  a  monkey. 

Friday,  May  15.  The  sick  sailor  whom  I  came 
down  from  Lima  to  see,  has  passed  the  crisis  of  his 
disease,  and  may  recover.  He  fluttered  for  some 
time  between  life  and  death.  The  vital  flame  seemed 
to  come  and  go  as  a  thing  apart  from  him.  But  now 
its  ray  is  more  bright  and  steady.  He  is  an  orphan, 
without  father  or  mother ;  but  has  a  sister,  to  whom 
he  is  much  attached.  The  idea  of  being  permitted 
to  see  her  again,  is  almost  too  much  for  his  exhaust- 
ed state.  If  you  would  get  at  the  true  character  ot 
the  sailor,  you  must  visit  him  in  his  sickness.  His 
better  feelings  then  gush  out  over  the  asperities  ot 
his  lot,  like  a  spring  from  amid  the  tangled  shrubs  ot 
the  wildwood. 

Saturday,  May  16.    We  went  to  general  quarters 
2G* 


306  DECK  AND  PORT. 


this  morning  at  three  bells,  and  exercised  the  guns. 
Those  on  the  main-deck  are  so  heavy,  they  require 
a  prodigious  outlay  of  strength  to  work  them.  Any 
irregularity  in  the  application  of  the  force  frustrates 
all  dexterity  of  movement ;  each  man  must  forego 
all  individual  volition,  independent  action,  and  be- 
come a  part  of  the  mechanism  which  is  to  be  tasked 
to  the  utmost  as  a  whole  ;  and  yet  he  must  have  all 
that  enthusiasm  which  is  felt  in  freedom  from  con- 
straint, and  when  the  strong  impulses  of  the  soul 
throw  themselves  off  in  resistless  action.  It  is  much 
easier  to  slash  away  gallantly  with  the  sabre,  than  to 
train  quickly  and  accurately  on  the  enemy  a  forty- 
four-pounder.  This  requires  self-possession,  and  in- 
domitable firmness.  Sailors  have  no  retreat.  They 
must  conquer,  die,  or  surrender.  The  last  they 
would  seldom  do,  were  it  not  forced  upon  them  by 
the  laws  of  humanity.  They  would  sooner  die,  as 
boarders,  on  the  deck  of  the  enemy,  than  survive,  as 
captives,  over  their  own  keel. 

Sunday,  May  17.  Divine  service  :  subject  of  the 
sermon,  the  influence  of  religion  on  a  man's  intellec- 
tual character.  The  object  of  the  speaker  was  to 
show  that  religion  aids  mental  development, — that 
while  it  strikes  down  pride,  it  imparts  true  dignity. 
Nothing  can  be  more  absurd  than  the  idea,  that  reli- 
gion impairs  strength  of  character.     It  invests  even 


PASSAGE  FBOM  CALLAO  TO  HONOLULU.  307 

the  timid  with  a  firmness  and  force  which  stand  un- 
dismayed amid  dungeons,  racks,  and  flaming  stakes. 
To  possess  the  religious  character  seems  to  the 
sailor  such  a  vast  stride  in  advance  of  his  ordinary 
habits,  that  he  is  extremely  diffident  in  preferring  his 
humble  claims.  He  will  pray  when  peril  presses, 
for  he  thinks  a  wicked  man  may  do  that,  but  he  con- 
nects a  worthy  profession  of  personal  piety  with  a 
degree  of  sanctity  hardly  compatible  with  the  infirm- 
ities of  his  nature.  He  has  rarely  enjoyed  the  ad- 
vantages of  a  religious  education  ;  no  moral  training 
has  gradually  introduced  him  to  the  sanctities  of  the 
Christian  life.  The  utmost  that  he  feels  himself  fit 
to  do  is,  like  the  poor  publican,  to  smite  upon  his 
breast,  and  exclaim,  "  God  be  merciful  to  me  a  sin- 
ner!" But  to  take  his  place  among  those  whose 
piety  is  to  guide  and  animate  others,  is  to  him  as  if 
a  lost  star  were  to  spring  out  of  the  depths  of  dark- 
ness, and  take  its  station  among  the  burning  con- 
stellations of  heaven.  When  therefore  he  does  avow 
his  religious  faith  and  hopes,  it  is  generally  with  him 
no  halfway  measure ;  no  decent  compromise  be- 
tween conscience  and  inclination.  He  takes  with 
him  his  all  for  this  world  and  the  next. 

Monday,  May  18.  The  phrase  "fickle  as  the  wind" 
is  not  applicable  to  the  trades  of  the  Pacific.  The 
wind  before  which  we  are  running  has  hardly  veered 


308  DECK  AND  PORT. 


a  point  for  the  last  week.  I  commend  its  steadiness 
to  those  politicians  who  find  it  necessary  every  few 
months  to  define  their  position. 

We  have  had  about  our  ship  this  afternoon  several 
sea-birds,  to  which  sailors  have  given  the  name  of 
boatswains.  They  have  a  long  feather  in  their  tail ; 
which  streams  behind  them  like  the  train  of  a  duchess 
at  court.  But  it  answers  a  much  wiser  purpose,  for 
instead  of  embarrassing  motion,  it  acts  as  a  rudder, 
and  steadies  the  bird  in  navigating  the  aerial  cur- 
rents.  Nature  never  bestows  any  useless  append- 
ages. These  are  the  achievements  of  human  vanity  ; 
and  sorry  achievements  they  are.  They  even  enter 
the  grave,  and  mock  with  their  tinsel  its  awful  reality. 

Tuesday,  May  19.  We  have  had  through  the 
day  a  soft,  hazy  atmosphere.  At  sunset  these  light, 
floating  vapors  gathered  themselves  into  more  sub- 
stantial clouds,  and  promised  a  shower.  But  after 
hanging  on  the  horizon  for  a  time,  they  seemed  to 
sink  below  its  rim.  The  moon  came  up  late ;  her 
soft  light  fell  on  the  sea,  but  the  wings  of  the  clouds, 
if  touched  by  the  effulgence,  were  invisible.  The 
wind,  though  of  sufficient  force  to  carry  us  on  some 
eight  knots,  scarcely  agitated  the  breast  of  the  ocean. 
It  seemed  as  something  intended  to  move  over  its 
level  plain  and  not  to  disturb  its  depths.  It  was  like  a 
shadow  gliding  over  the  tops  of  a  vast  sleeping  forest. 


PASSAGE   FROM  CALLAO  TO   HONOLULU.  309 

Wednesday,  May  20.  Our  gun-carriages,  with 
their  black  paint  on  a  white  ground,  could  never  be 
made  to  look  neat  for  any  length  of  time.  The  white 
was  perpetually  working  itself  through  its  sable  cov- 
ering, like  an  inborn  levity  of  heart  through  an  as- 
sumed gravity  of  demeanor.  Our  captain  and  first 
lieutenant,  who  have  an  acknowledged  taste  in  every 
thing  that  belongs  to  the  appearance  of  a  man-of- 
war,  ordered  the  carriages  thoroughly  scraped  of 
every  particle  of  paint.  A  dark  stain  was  then 
given  to  the  wood,  through  which  the  grain  shows 
itself  in  its  native  strength.  Over  this  a  thin  varnish 
of  spirit  and  oil  was  spread,  imparting  to  the  wood  a 
beautiful  polish,  and  blending  itself  with  its  texture. 
The  battery  of  a  frigate,  especially  as  you  come  upon 
her  gun-deck,  is  that  which  first  strikes  the  eye.  Like 
the  pulpit  ot  a  church,  if  forlorn  in  its  appearance, 
elegance  elsewhere  will  not  retrieve  the  error.  A 
rough  pulpit  may  have  thunder  in  it,  but  the  thunder 
don't  lie  in  its  roughness. 

Thursday,  May  21.  One  of  our  quarter-masters 
has  just  finished  a  new  and  splendid  flag,  which  we 
shall  display  at  the  islands.  How  profound  the  love 
and  reverence  of  the  sailor  for  his  flag!  He  con- 
nects with  it,  as  it  streams  in  freedom  and  light  on 
the  wind,  a  thousand  glorious  memories.  It  points 
to  crimson  waves  where  his  comrades  of  the  deck 


310  DECK  AND  PORT. 


have  triumphed  or  sunk  overpowered  to  their  rest. 
He  holds  the  deepest  crime  to  be  that  of  treason  to 
its  obligations  and  sacred  hopes.  He  would  surren- 
der it  only  to  the  King  of  kings. 

The  last  words  of  the  late  Commodore  Hull  were 
addressed  to  the  stern  majesty  of  Death. 

"  I  STRIKE  MY  FLAG." 

I  strike  not  to  a  sceptred  king — 

A  man  of  mortal  breath — 
A  weak,  imperious,  fickle  thing ; 

I  strike  to  thee,  0  Death  1 

I  strike  that  flag  which  in  the  fight 

The  trust  of  millions  hailed, 
The  flag  which  threw  its  meteor  light 

Where  England's  lion  quailed. 

I  strike  to  thee,  whose  mandates  fall 

Alike  on  king  and  slave, 
Whose  livery  is  the  shroud  and  pall, 

And  palace-court  the  grave. 

Thy  captives  crowd  the  caverned  earth, 

They  fill  the  rolling  sea, 
From  court  and  camp,  the  wave  and  hearth, 

All,  all  have  bowed  to  thee. 

But  thou,  stern  Death,  must  yet  resign 
Thy  sceptre  o'er  this  dust ; 
'  The  Power  that  makes  the  mortal  thine, 
Will  yet  remand  his  trust. 


PASSAGE   FROM  CALLAO  TO   HONOLULU.  311 

His  signal  trump  shall  pierce  this  ear 

Beneath  the  grave's  cold  clod — 
This  form,  these  features  reappear 

In  life  before  their  God. 

Friday,  May  22.  I  was  sitting  at  a  late  hour  last 
evening  on  the  gun-deck  to  catch  the  breeze,  which 
came  freshly  through  the  larboard  ports,  when  a 
large,  sleek,  long-tailed  rat,  with  a  slow,  aristocratic 
step,  approached  the  combings  of  the  hatch,  which 
he  mounted,  and  then  deliberately  descended  into  the 
steerage  among  the  junior  officers.  What  his  errand 
was  there,  I  know  not ;  but  there  was  a  dignity  and 
self-possession  in  his  demeanor  which  was  admirable. 
He  seemed  as  one  conscious  of  his  rights,  and  not  at 
all  disposed  to  waive  them.  I  have  always  felt  some 
regard  for  a  rat  since  my  cruise  in  the  Constellation. 
We  were  fitting  for  sea  at  Norfolk,  and  taking  in 
water  and  provisions  ;  a  plank  was  resting  on  the  sill 
of  one  of  the  ports  which  communicated  with  the 
wharf.  On  a  bright  moonlight  evening,  we  discovered 
two  rats  on  the  plank  coming  into  the  ship.  The 
foremost  was  leading  the  other  by  a  straw,  one  end 
of  which  each  held  in  his  mouth.  We  managed  to 
capture  them  both,  and  found,  to  our  surprise,  the 
one  led  by  the  other  was  stone-blind.  His  faithful 
friend  was  trying  to  get  him  on  board,  where  he 
would  have  comfortable  quarters  during  a  three 
years'  cruise.     We  felt  no  disposition  to  kill  either, 


312  DECK   AND  PORT. 


and  landed  them  on  the  wharf.  How  many  there 
are  in  this  world  to  whom  the  fidelity  of  that  rat 
readeth  a  lesson ! 

Saturday,  May  23.  We  have  now  been  out  four- 
teen days  from  Callao,  and  have  sailed  two  thousand 
eight  hundred  miles,  making  an  average  of  two  hun- 
dred miles  a  day.  Not  a  squall,  nor  a  threatening 
cloud,  have  we  encountered ;  nor  have  we  once 
furled  our  royals,  or  taken  in  our  studding-sails.  The 
wind  has  been,  with  scarce  a  point's  variation,  dead 
aft ;  and  has  maintained  an  equanimity  which  the 
most  serene  philosophical  temper  can  scarcely  hope 
to  rival.  Contentment,  cheerfulness,  and  alacrity 
have  been  everywhere  visible  among  the  crew.  Not 
an  offence  has  been  committed  which  has  received  or 
merited  punishment.  Such  is  our  condition  in  the 
midst  of  the  Pacific — under  the  influence  of  its  balmy 
airs — and  under  a  discipline  in  which  justice  and  hu- 
manity are  admirably  blended.  We  have  yet  to  sail 
some  twenty-eight  hundred  miles  before  we  make 
our  port.  The  distance  between  Callao  and  the 
Sandwich  Islands  is  about  twice  as  great  as  that  be- 
tween New  York  and  Liverpool.  Yet  we  all  remem- 
ber the  time  when  a  man  bound  to  Liverpool,  or 
London,  took  leave  of  his  friends  with  a  sadness  and 
solemnity,  which  augured  a  dismal  doubt  of  his  re- 
turn. 


PASSAGE   FROM  CALLAO  TO  HONOLULU.  313 

Sunday,  May  24.  Though  we  are  near  the  Equa- 
tor, where  the  weather  is  apt  to  be  variable,  yet  we 
have  had  a  delightful  day,  a  brilliant  sky,  a  smooth 
sea,  and  a  mild  alt  wind.  We  had  divine  service  at 
six  bells.  The  subject  of  the  discourse  was,  the  ex- 
ample of  the  primitive  Christians, — their  faith,  their 
zeal,  their  constancy,  their  sufferings,  their  triumphs. 
They  are  a  cloud  of  witnesses  who  have  gone  before 
us  to  heaven,  but  they  have  left  their  footprints  on 
the  shores  of  time.  The  example  of  their  faith  and 
constancy  remains  for  our  imitation. 

Every  man,  however  humble  his  sphere,  may  be, 
and  ought  to  be,  in  his  own  life  a  preacher  of  righte- 
ousness. A  religious  example,  wherever  found,  is 
invested  with  a  prodigious  moral  power.  Such  an 
example  is  within  the  reach  of  every  one  on  the 
decks  of  a  man-of-war ;  and  there  is  no  situation 
where  its  effects  would  be  more  certain.  We  are  as 
responsible  for  the  good  which  we  can  do,  as  the 
evil  which  we  have  done.  The  man  who  had  one 
talent  was  condemned,  not  because  he  had  only  one 
talent,  but  because  he  hid  that  talent  in  the  earth. 

Monday,  May  25.  We  crossed  the  Equator  last 
night  in  our  first  watch,  at  longitude  one  hundred 
and  twenty  west.  We  crossed  it  first  on  our  way 
to  Rio  de  Janeiro ;  since  that  we  have  sailed  through 
one  hundred  and  twenty  degrees  of  latitude,  and  al- 

27 


314  DECK   AND  PORT. 


most  as  many  degrees  of  temperature.  At  Rio  we 
were  melted  down  with  the  heat ;  off  Cape  Horn 
our  fingers  were  stiffened  with  the  cold  ;  and  now 
the  most  grateful  gift  in  the  world  would  be  a  glass 
of  ice-water.  Such  extremes  of  temperature  are  the 
more  felt  in  the  exposures  inseparable  from  a  sea-life. 
We  have  on  board  ship  no  forests  into  which  we  can 
rush  from  the  heat ;  no  glowing  grates,  around  which 
we  can  gather  from  the  cold.  We  must  take  the 
elements,  whatever  they  may  be,  in  their  full  force. 
They  shatter  the  constitution  ;  and  sink  a  grave  in 
the  sailor's  path,  over  which  he  rarely  passes  to  a 
green  old  age. 

Tuesday,  May  26.  Clouds  hung  in  thick  masses 
on  the  eastern  horizon  this  morning.  They  had  not 
that  jagged  outline,  which  in  other  seas  indicates  a 
severe  blow.  They  loomed  up  lazily,  as  if  they 
knew  not  themselves  for  what  purpose  their  dark 
forms  had  been  shoved  between  us  and  the  splendors 
of  the  breaking  day.  We  supposed  they  were  charged 
with  showers,  and  watched  their  motions  with  some 
interest.  But  the  higher  they  ascended,  the  thinner 
they  became,  till  at  last  they  gradually  melted  away, 
and  left  only  the  soft  over-arching  sky.  But  they 
may  gather  themselves  another  morn,  each  take  a 
distinct  shape,  and  utter  its  satirical  soliloquy,  like 
the  cloud  of  Shelley  : — 


PASSAGE   FROM  CALLAO  TO  HONOLULU.  315 

I  am  the  daughter  of  earth  and  water, 

And  the  nursling  of  the  6ky  ; 
I  pass  through  the  pores  of  the  ocean  and  shores ; 

I  cliange,  but  I  cannot  die. 
For  after  the  rain,  when  with  never  a  stain, 

The  pavilion  of  heaven  is  bare, 
And  the  winds  and  the  sunbeams,  with  their  convex  gleams, 

Build  up  the  blue  dome  of  air, 
I  silently  laugh  at  my  own  cenotaph, 

And  out  of  the  caverns  of  rain, 
Like  a  child  from  the  womb,  like  a  ghost  from  the  tomb, 

I  arise  and  unbuild  it  again. 

Wednesday,  May  27.  We  have  been  becalmed 
all  day  between  the  northeast  and  northwest  trades. 
The  ocean  has  slumbered  around  us  with  scarce  a 
ripple.  A  large  shark  was  seen  hanging  around  our 
ship  through  the  morning.  A  strong  hook,  attached 
to  a  rope  and  baited  with  a  pound  or  two  of  pork, 
was  drifted  astern.  He  nabbed  it  as  a  famishing 
politician  an  office.  He  was  a  monster  in  strength 
as  well  as  size,  and  made  the  sea  foam  with  his  strug- 
gles to  break  away.  It  required  four  or  five  sailors 
to  draw  him  in  ;  and  when  on  deck  he  cleared  a 
pretty  broad  circle  by  his  ferocious  sweep.  But  he 
was  soon  overmastered,  deprived  of  his  head  and  tail 
by  the  axe,  and  cut  up  into  pieces  accommodated  to" 
the  sailors'  culinary  apparatus.  Many,  as  they  aM 
him,  derived  their  keenest  relish  from  their  inherited 
antipathy  to  his  species. 


316  DECK  AND  PORT. 


Thursday,  May  28.  We  have  had  through  the 
day  scarce  a  breath  of  wind ;  the  thermometer  has 
ranged  at  85  ;  the  heat  below  has  been  quite  insup- 
portable. The  sun  set  through  a  thick,  stagnant 
atmosphere  ;  our  sails  hung  motionless,  save  an  occa- 
sional flap  against  the  mast,  given  them  by  the  slug- 
gish swing  of  the  ship.  This  continued  till  six  bells 
of  the  first  watch,  when  the  rain  fell  in  a  perfect 
deluge.  The  water  formed  an  instant  lake  between 
the  bulwarks  of  the  spar-deck,  fell  through  the  hatches, 
and  flooded  us  below.  It  was  some  minutes  before 
the  hatches  could  be  hooded ;  and  when  they  were, 
our  last  breath  of  fresh  air  was  shut  out.  We  con- 
tinued in  this  situation  through  the  night.  The  sun 
rose  into  a  dim,  murky  haze,  in  which  his  beams 
were  quenched  long  before  they  reached  our  position. 

Friday,  May  29.  The  most  gorgeous  sunsets  I 
have  ever  witnessed  at  sea  have  been  near  the  equa- 
tor. We  have  just  been  watching  one  from  the 
deck ;  all  eyes  were  fastened  upon  its  magnificent 
phases.  The  whole  west  appeared  at  first  as  if  it  had 
lost  its  steep  wall,  and  seemed  to  stretch  away  like  a 
limitless  prairie  in  conflagration.  It  changed  and 
presented  itself  as  a  wild,  picturesque  landscape ; 
mountain  forests  were  on  fire,  throwing  their  lurid 
flames  upon  the  rushing  torrents,  and  into  the  deep 
ravines,  and   upon   the  sleeping  lakes      It  changed 


PASSAGE   FROM  CALLAO  TO   HONOLULU.  317 


again,  and  poured  its  splendors  upon  the  bastions, 
domes,  and  turrets  of  a  vast  city.  Princely  palaces, 
columned  femples,  and  monumental  pyramids,  soared 
into  a  crimson  atmosphere.  A  rushing  wind  swept 
the  aerial  structures,  and  over  their  gigantic  ruins 
rolled  an  ocean  of  flame.  If  this  be  sunset,  what  will 
that  Conflagration  be  which  will  at  last  wrap  the 
world ! 

Saturday,  May  30.  We  have  been  in  a  calm  the 
greater  part  of  the  day.  The  mirror  of  the  ocean 
has  been  broken  only  by  the  plunges  of  a  huge  whale. 
He  rose  at  times  within  a  few  fathoms  of  our  ship, 
blowing  the  brine  almost  into  the  faces  of  our  crew. 
They  would,  if  permitted,  have  retaliated  with  their 
harpoons ;  though  the  result  would  have  been  only 
the  loss  of  their  weapons,  for  the  monster  would  have 
carried  them  off  with  as  much  ease  as  Samson  the 
bodkins  of  Delilah.  He  tumbled  around  us  for  several 
hours,  as  if  measuring  his  size  and  strength  with  that 
of  our  frigate.  At  last,  with  one  great  heave,  made 
as  if  in  pride  and  scorn,  he  plunged  and  disappeared. 
Long  life  to  him.     I  like  his  independent  bearing. 

One  of  our  seamen  got  tipsy  to-day,  and  raised  a 
disturbance  on  the  berth-deck.  How  he  managed  to 
get  a  double  dose  from  the  grog-tub  is  not  known. 
And  yet  he  alleges  his  liquor  came  from  that  nuisance 
which  the  law  has  sanctioned.  I  have  taken  some 
27* 


318  DECK  AND  PORT. 


pains,  during  the  long  period  that  I  have  been  in  the 
navy,  to  ascertain  the  causes  of  the  offences  which 
have  called  for  punishment;  and  from  these  inquiries 
I  am  clearly  of  the  opinion,  that  these  offences,  in 
nine  cases  out  of  ten,  are  connected  with  ardent 
spirits ;  and  are  committed,  in  almost  every  case,  by 
those  who  draw  the  whisky-ration  provided  by  the 
government.  I  am  clear  in  the  conviction,  that  any 
statutes  intended  to  restrain  or  punish  intoxication 
in  a  national  ship,  must  be  without  moral  force  so 
long  as  our  legislation  panders  to  this  appetite  in  the 
sailor.  The  government  presents  itself  before  the 
seaman  with  a  cup  of  whisky  in  one  hand  and  a  cat- 
o'-nine  tails  in  the  other.  Here,  my  good  fellow, 
drink  this  ;  but  if  you  drink  any  more,  then  look  out 
for  these  cats.  It  is  amazing  that  such  a  flagrant 
violation  of  every  principle  of  justice  and  humanity 
should  escape  the  reprobation  and  even  oblique  ani- 
madversion of  the  department,  and  be  left  to  the  re- 
monstrances of  those  who  hold  no  official  relation  to 
the  navy. 

Sunday,  May  31.  Ill  health  has  disqualified  me 
for  performing  service  to-day.  Indeed  it  would  have 
been  difficult  had  I  been  well,  as  the  rain  has  been 
falling  in  frequent  and  copious  showers,  attended  by 
squalls,  which  have  obliged  us  to  take  in  our  lighter 
sails  about  as  soon  as  they  were  set.     I  gave  tracts 


PASSAGE  FROM  CALLAO  TO   HONOLULU.  319 

to  the  crew  who  called  for  them,  and  nearly  all  ap- 
plied. Every  chaplain  should  supply  himself  with  a 
good  store  of  these  silent  preachers.  They  help  him 
on  in  his  good  work.  They  will  be  read  by  seamen 
when  more  labored  efforts  would  be  neglected.  Many 
a  sailor  owes  his  conversion  to  the  modest  tract. 
They  have  poured  a  steady  light  around  his  dying 
hammock  which  had  else  been  wrapped  in  darkness. 
The  brightest  triumphs  of  religion  are  found  nearest 
the  grave.  Its  last  great  triumph  will  be  over  death 
itself. 

There  has  been  for  some  weeks  past  a  growing 
seriousness  among  our  sailors.  The  indications  are 
too  obvious  to  be  mistaken.  Two  or  three  of  them 
I  have  reason  to  believe  have  experienced  religion. 
They  meet  every  night  and  pray  for  the  conversion 
of  others.  This  little  cloud  may  yet  extend  itself, 
and  its  drops  may  fall  in  a  copious  shower.  Let  us 
have  confidence  in  the  power  of  God's  grace. 

Monday,  June  1.  The  northern  constellations 
which  have  been  lost  to  us  for  several  months,  now 
that  we  have  recrossed  the  equator,  begin  to  emerge 
into  vision.  They  come  back  like  old,  tried  friends, 
whose  fidelity  time  cannot  chill  or  distance  impair. 
Man  may  change,  but  nature  never.  The  same  look 
of  love  which  she  cast  upon  our  cradles  she  will  east 
upon  our  graves.     The  same  exulting  .streams,  whose 


320  DECK   AND  PORT. 


melodies  charmed  our  childhood,  will  at  last  roll 
among  the  echoing  hills  our  loud  requiem  ;  while 
the  gentle  dews  steep  with  tears  the  flowers  which 
spring  shall  sprinkle  around  our  place  of  rest.  But 
yonder  streams  upon  us  again  the  constellations  of 
our  youth. 

"  The  northern  team, 
And  great  Orion's  more  refulgent  beam, 
To  which,  around  the  axle  of  the  sky, 
The  Bear,  revolving,  turns  his  golden  eye." 

Tuesday,  June  2.  The  northwest  trades  brought 
us  on  briskly  till  within  a  few  degrees  of  that  point 
where  we  crossed  the  equator.  We  there  fell  into 
calms,  light  baffling  winds,  and  tremendous  falls  of 
rain.  We  were  several  days  working  our  way 
through  these  to  the  seventh  degree,  north  latitude, 
where  we  took  the  northeast  trades,  and  we  are  now 
running  ten  and  eleven  knots  the  hour.  These 
trades  blow  obliquely  to  the  equator,  and  prevail 
with  a  surprising  regularity  and  force.  A  ship 
bound  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  as  we  are,  should 
make  the  shortest  cut  across  the  variables.  When 
the  northwest  trades  leave  her,  in  consequence  of  her 
proximity  to  the  line,  she  should  take  advantage  of 
every  puff  of  wind  to  make  northing,  till  she  gains 
the  northeast  trades.  She  may  run  a  little  further, 
it  is  true,  by  this  course,  but  she  more  than  makes  it 
up  by  her  ultimate  speed ;  and  she  escapes,  by  the 


PASSAGE   FROM  CALLAO  TO   HONOLULU.  321 

shortest  route,  the  extremely  disagreeable  weather 
which  prevails  near  the  equator. 

Wednesday,  June  3.  A  large  flying-fish  flew  this 
evening  into  the  cabin,  through  one  of  the  side  ports. 
It  was  rather  a  difficult  achievement,  as  we  were 
running  ten  knots.  The  little  fellow  had  been  at- 
tracted by  the  light,  and  flew  at  it,  as  the  mullet  in 
our  southern  streams  leap  at  night  into  the  lighted 
canoes  of  the  negroes.  Our  flying-fish  made  a  bad 
exchange,  not  out  of  the  frying-pan  into  the  fire,  it  is 
true,  but  out  of  the  water  into  the  frying-pan.  But 
then  he  was  dazzled,  captivated  by  a  floating  light, 
gave  chase,  and  came  to  ruin.  It  is  ever  thus  with 
man  ;  his  life  is  an  eager  chase  after  some  false  light, 
some  ignis  fatuus  of  his  imagination,  which  leads  him 
on  till  at  last  he  drops  into  his  grave  and  disappears 
forever. 

Thursday,  June  4.  We  have  the  chart  used  by 
the  frigate  United  States  in  her  passage  from  Callao 
to  Honolulu,  on  which  her  route  is  designated,  and 
the  distance  which  she  ran  each  day  dotted  down. 
Up  to  the  equator,  we  ran  neck  and  neck  with  her. 
In  the  variables  she  got  ahead  of  us  ;  but  we  have 
now  left  her  some  three  hundred  miles  astern.  We 
have  been  making  an  average  of  two  hundred  and 
forty  miles  a  day,  without   motion  enough  to  shake 


322  DECK  AND  PORT. 


a  dew-drop  from  its  level  leaf.  We  have  not  had, 
except  for  a  few  days  near  the  equator,  occasion  to 
take  in  our  top-gallant  studding-sails.  The  ther- 
mometer has  stood  pretty  steady  at  about  seventy- 
five,  and  the  air  is  pure  and  bracing.  If  we  reach 
our  port  on  Monday  next,  which  we  have  now  a  fair 
prospect  of  doing,  we  shall  have  made  our  passage 
from  Callao  in  twenty-nine  days ;  one  of  the  very 
shortest  passages  on  record.  Five  thousand  four 
hundred  miles  in  twenty-nine  days !     That  will  do. 

Friday,  June  5.  We  have  the  moon  again  direct- 
ly in  the  zenith  ;  she  hangs  there  like  a  resplendent 
orb  in  the  centre  of  a  magnificent  dome.  The  stars 
gleam  out  with  timid  auxiliary  light ;  while  soft 
clouds  float  with  incense  from  earth's  thousand  al- 
tars. The  dome,  beneath  which  the  turbaned  repre- 
sentative of  the  Prophet  kneels,  and  that  which  bends 
in  grandeur  over  the  supplicating  form  of  the  papal 
hierarch,  are  poor  when  compared  with  this.  The 
walls  of  St.  Sophia  will  crumble,  and  the  pillars  of 
St.  Peter's  give  way,  but  nature's  great  dome  will  still 
stand,  brilliant  and  undecaying,  as  when  it  echoed 
the  song  of  the  morning  stars  over  the  birth  of  our 
planet ;  and  it  will  stand  the  same, 

"  Till  wrapp'd  in  flames  the  realms  of  ether  glow, 
And  heaven's  last  thunder  shakes  the  -world  below." 


PAS3AGE   FROM  CALLAO  TO   HO V  M.UMJ.  323 


Saturday,  June  6.  We  have  in  the  sick-bay  a 
sailor,  James  Mills,  who  must  die.  He  may  survive 
a  few  days  longer,  and  must  then  go.  He  is  in  the 
prime  of  life,  and  a  few  months  ago  ranked  among 
the  most  athletic  on  our  decks.  He  is  now  but  the 
shadow  of  the  past,  and  hovers  dimly  on  the  verge 
of  life.  The  night  of  that  narrow  house  is  not  all 
dark  to  him  ;  some  rays  of  light  reach  it  from  the 
Cross.  These  are  now  all  that  can  cheer  him  ;  they 
are  all  that  can  cheer  the  descending  footsteps  of  the 
proudest  monarch.  Into  death's  domain  the  honors 
and  friendships  of  earth  cannot  enter ;  they  leave 
their  possessor  in  the  hour  of  his  utmost  need.  But 
there  is  One  whose  love  will  remain  with  the  meek, 
when  these  depart ;  One  whose  smile  will  kindle  up 
a  morn  even  in  the  night  of  the  grave. 

Sunday,  June  7.  Commodore  Stockton,  who  has 
always  taken  an  interest  in  our  religious  exercises, 
having  occasion  to  speak  to  the  crew  to-day,  I  in- 
duced him  to  extend  his  remarks  to  topics  more 
sacred  than  those  which  lay  within  his  original 
purpose.  He  spoke  of  the  Bible  as  that  crowning 
revelation  which  God  has  made  of  himself  to  man, 
of  its'elevating  influences  on  the  human  soul,  of  the 
priceless  counsels  which  it  conveys,  and  the  immor- 
tal hopes  which  it  awakens.  He  contrasted  the 
gloomy  condition  of  those  tribes  and  nations   which 


324  DECK  AND  PORT. 


were  without  it  with  that  of  those  where  its  steady 
light  shone,  and  found  in  this  contrast  a  vindication 
of  its  divinity,  which  none  could  gainsay  or  resist. 
He  commended  its  habitual  study  to  the  officers  and 
crew  as  our  only  infallible  rule  of  duty,  as  our  only 
safe-guiding  light  in  the  mental  and  moral  twilight 
of  our  being  here.  He  rebuked  the  idea  that  religion 
was  out  of  its  element  among  sailors,  and  told  them 
that  of  all  classes  of  men  they  were  the  one  that 
most  needed  its  restraining  influences  and  glorious 
promises,  and  denounced  as  insane  a  disposition  to 
trifle  with  its  precepts.  He  commended  the  good 
conduct  of  the  crew  on  the  Sabbath,  and  expressed 
the  earnest  hope,  that  they  would  continue,  in  the 
event  of  probable  separation  from  them,  the  same 
respectful  and  earnest  regard  for  the  duties  of  re- 
ligion. 

Such  remarks  as  these,  coming  from  the  command- 
er of  a  ship  or  squadron,  will  do  more  to  sustain  a 
chaplain  in  the  discharge  of  his  difficult  duties  than 
any  privileges  which  can  be  conferred  upon  him 
through  the  provisions  of  law.  They  honor  the 
heart  from  which  they  flow,  and  their  influence  will 
be  felt  in  the  moral  well-being  of  hundreds,  when  that 
heart  shall  have  ceased  to  beat.  The  tree  you1  have 
planted  will  grow,  and  its  fruit  rome  to  maturity, 
though  you  see  it  not. 


PASSAGE   FROM  CALLAO  TO  HONOLULU.  325 

Monday,  June  8.  At  seven  bells  of  our  forenoon 
watch  the  call  of  the  boatswain,  "  All  hands  to  bury 
the  dead !"  rolled  its  hoarse,  deep  tones  through  the 
ship.  The  remains  of  the  deceased — wrapped  in 
that  hammock  from  which  he  had  often  sprung  as 
his  night-watch  came  round — was  borne  by  his  mess- 
mates up  the  main-hatch,  and  around  the  capstan,  to 
the  slow  measures  of  the  dead  march,  played  by  the 
band.  In  the  starboard  waist,  and  on  a  plank,  one 
end  of  which  rested  on  the  sill  of  an  open  port,  the 
relic  reposed,  till  in  the  funeral  service  the  words 
were  announced,  "  We  commit  this  body  to  the  deep ;" 
— the  inner  end  of  the  plank  was  then  lifted,  and 
the  hammocked  dead,  with  a  hoarse,  rumbling  sound, 
glided  down  to  his  deep  floating  grave.  Thus  passed 
poor  Mills  from  our  midst  in  the  morning  of  his  days, 
with  broken  purposes  and  blighted  hopes.  Though 
the  wave  rolls  over  his  form,  and  none  can  point  to 
the  place  of  his  rest,  his  humble  virtues  still  survive 
in  the  recollections  of  those  who  knew  him. 

"  The  departed  !  the  departed ! 
They  visit  us  in  dreams, 
And  glide  above  our  memories 
Like  shadows  over  streams. 
The  good,  the  brave,  the  beautiful, 

How  dreamless  is  their  sleep, 
Where  rolls  the  dirge-like  music 
Of  the  ever-tossing  deep  1" 
28 


320  DECK  AND  PORT. 


Tuesday,  June  9.  Last  evening,  while  it  was  yet 
some  three  hours  to  sunset,  the  cry  of  "  Land  ho !" 
rang  from  mast-head.  It  was  the  island  of  Hawaii 
boldly  breaking  the  line  of  the  horizon  over  our  lar- 
board bow.  We  were  now  near  our  port,  but  not 
sufficiently  near  to  reach  our  anchorage  by  day- 
light. We  were  running  ten  knots,  and  orders  were 
given  to  take  in  sail,  that  we  might  not  shoot  too  far 
ahead. 

Night,  and  the  hour  of  slumber  came  on,  and  our 
dreams  were  filled  with  the  flowers  and  fruit  of 
sunny  isles.  Day  broke  over  the  steeps  of  Oahu, 
and  threw  its  light  into  the  port  of  Honolulu. 
Here  at  last  we  let  go  our  anchors,  and  once  more 
clewed  up  our  sails.  We  had  made  one  of  the  short- 
est passages  on  record  from  Callao.  We  had  run 
for  the  last  seven  days  an  average  of  two  hundred 
and  thirty-five  miles.  We  had  sailed  about  six  thou- 
sand miles,  and  had  hardly  disturbed  a  royal  or 
studding-sail,  and  the  sea  had  been  smooth  as  the 
slumbering  surface  of  an  inland  lake.  Give  me  the 
Pacific  and  the  trade  winds.  You  have  here  a  quiet 
ocean,  a  steady  breeze,  and  an  even  temperature. 
In  the  Atlantic  you  are  in  squalls  or  calms ;  in  the 
one  you  plunge  about,  and  in  the  other  you  sleep. 

Here  we  are  to  part  with  our  passengers,  Mr.  Ten 
Eyk,  our  commissioner  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  with 
his  lady,  children,  and  Miss  J ;  and  with  Judge 


PASSAGE  FROM  CALLAO  TO   HONOLULU.  327 

Turrell,  our  consul  to  these  islands,  with  his  lady, 
children,  and  Mr.  H.  They  have  been  with  us  since 
we  sailed  from  Norfolk.  Their  society  has  helped  to 
relieve  the  monotony  of  a  sea  life.  They  have  mani- 
fested no  impatience  at  our  delays,  and  have  cheer- 
fully conformed,  in  all  respects,  to  the  usages  of  a 
man-of-war.  The  consequence  has  been,  an  unin- 
terrupted harmony  between  them  and  the  officers, 
and  an  interchange  of  all  those  civilities  on  which 
the  happiness  of  our  social  condition  depends.  They 
are  to  be  landed  under  the  salute  to  which  their  rank 
entitles  them.  They  carry  with  them  our  esteem 
and  our  best  wishes.  May  a  kind  Providence  Lj 
their  guardian  and  friend. 

"  Farewell !  a  word  that  may  be  and  hath  been, 
A  sound  that  make9  us  linger — yet,  farewell  F 


328 


CHAPTER  XI. 

SKETCHES  OF   HONOLULU. 

BAT  OF  HONOLULU. KANACKA  FUNERAL. — THE    MISSIONARIES. HUTS    AND 

HABITS  OF  THE    NATIVES. — TARO-PLANT. ROAST    DOG. — SCHOOL    OF   THE 

YOUNG  CHIEFS. RIDE  IN  THE    COUNTRY. — THE  MAUSOLEUM. COCOANUT- 

TREE. — CANOES. HEATHEN  TEMPLE. — KING'S  CHAPEL. — RIDE  TO  EWA. 

FATHER  BISHOP. HIS  SABLE  FLOCK. 

Wednesday,  June  10.  The  bay  of  Honolulu  is 
only  a  bend  in  the  shore.  About  a  mile  from  the 
strand,  a  coral  reef  emerges,  over  which  the  rollers 
pour  their  perpetual  surge.  Through  this  reef,  na- 
ture has  left  a  narrow  passage,  which  admits  smaller 
vessels,  but  a  ship  of  our  depth  is  obliged  to  anchor 
outside,  and  nearly  two  miles  distant  from  the  shore. 

The  right  extremity  of  the  bay,  as  you  enter  it,  is 
guarded  by  the  steep  cone  of  an  exhausted  volcano, 
which  has  taken  the  less  terrific  name  of  Diamond 
Hill.  The  left  is  defended  by  a  bold  bluff,  which 
shoulders  its  way,  with  savage  ferocity,  into  the  roar- 
ing sea.  The  town  of  Honolulu  stretches  along  the 
interval,  while  close  in  the  background  soars  the 
wild  crater  of  another  extinguished  volcano,  under 
the  bewildering  name  of  the  Punch-Bowl.  The 
steeps  beyond  are  broken  into  deep  ravines,  which 
wind  off  in  rich  verdure  into  the  heart  of  the  island. 


SKETCHES  OF  HONOLULU.  329 

On  its  mountain  crags  the  boldest  eagle  might  build  ; 
in  its  glens  the  callow  cygnet  slumber. 

While  I  was  inquiring  for  a  good  hotel,  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Damon,  seamen's  chaplain  at  this  port,  came  on 
board,  and  invited  me  to  take  quarters  with  him,  an 
invitation  which  I  cheerfully  accepted.  Months  of 
boxing  about  at  sea  give  a  charm  to  the  land-berth, 
which  only  they  can  fully  appreciate  who  slumber 
over  keels.  On  landing,  my  trunk  was  claimed  by 
some  twenty  boys  and  porters.  In  the  general  strife 
I  gave  it  to  the  one  who  appeared  to  need  a  shilling 
the  most.  His  fellows  took  their  disappointment  in 
good  humor.  A  short  walk  brought  me  to  the  domi- 
cile of  my  friend,  where  an  agreeable  lady  welcomed 
me  in. 

Thursday,  June  11.  I  had  only  seated  myself  in 
my  new  abode,  when  Mr.  Damon  invited  me  to  ac- 
company him  to  a  funeral.  The  deceased  was  a 
foreigner,  of  some  popularity  among  the  natives,  who 
attended  his  remains  in  large  numbers  to  his  grave. 
They  were  all  on  foot,  moving  in  silent,  but  tumult- 
uous order.  There  was  no  solemnity  in  their  mo- 
tions, but  a  subdued  air  in  their  faces.  Some  were 
helping  along  those  who  were  bowed  with  the  infirm- 
ities of  age,  and  others  were  carrying  piping  infants 
in  their  arms,  lashed  to  their  backs. 

The  burial-ground  is  a  mile,  or  more,  from  the 
28* 


330  DECK   AND  PORT. 


town,  on  a  slight  elevation,  fenced  in  and  shaded 
with  native  trees.  Here  the  procession  halted,  and 
gathered  in  dark,  silent  masses  around  a  new-dug 
grave.  The  coffin  was  lowered  ;  a  few  words  of  ap- 
propriate admonition  addressed  to  those  around  ;  a 
prayer  offered  ;,  the  earth  returned  to  its  place  ;  a 
slight  mound  raised  ;  flowers  and  sprigs  of  evergreen 
cast  upon  it,  and  the  crowd  wound  their  way  back 
in  the  same  silent  disorder  in  which  they  came. 
Here  was  no  pomp,  no  trappings  of  grief,  but  that 
simple  homage  of  the  heart,  which  bespeaks  a  senti- 
ment of  bereavement  and  respect.  Let  others  have, 
if  they  will,  a  funeral  pageant,  but  give  me  rather 
that  flower  which  grief  gathers  and  affection  plants, 
or  that  tear  which  trembles  in  the  eye  of  the  untu- 
tored child  of  nature. 

Before  the  missionaries  introduced  a  change  of 
customs,  the  natives  were  in  the  habit  of  expressing 
their  grief,  at  the  death  of  a  favorite  chief,  by  knock- 
ing out  two  or  more  of  their  front  teeth.  The 
strength  of  their  attachment  was  evinced  by  the  ex- 
tent of  this  dental  devastation,  which  sometimes  in- 
volved the  destruction  of  every  tooth.  This  is  the 
reason  that  so  few  of  the  older  inhabitants  have  their 
teeth  entire.  The  missionaries  substituted  for  this 
act  of  self-inflicted  violence,  the  innocent  tokens  of 
bereavement,  and  that  tribute  of  respect  which  is 
conveyed  in  casting  on  the  grave  a  sprig  of  ever- 


SKETCHES  OF  HONOLULU.  331 

green,  as  a  type  of  the  soul's  immortality.    Humanity 
and  religion  always  go  hand  in  hand. 

Friday,  June  12.  The  morning  has  been  passed 
in  receiving  calls  from  the  missionaries.  They  are 
plain  in  their  apparel,  easy  in  their  manners,  and  in- 
telligent in  their  conversation.  They  have  none  of 
that  rigid  solemnity,  which  a  sectarian  puts  on,  who 
would  throw  his  religion  into  his  looks  ;  and  yet  they 
are  free  of  that  lightness  and  triviality  which  are  in- 
compatible with  a  high  and  earnest  purpose.  They 
have  cheerfulness  without  levity,  and  sobriety  with- 
out sternness.  They  are  far  from  being  men  of  one 
idea  ;  their  mental  horizon  is  broad.  They  have  im- 
pressed their  genius  upon  all  the  social  habits  and 
civil  institutions  of  the  islanders  among  whom  they 
dwell.  Indeed,  all  that  exists  here,  upon  which  the 
eye  of  the  Christian  philanthropist  can  dwell  with 
complacency,  has  risen  from  a  weltering  tide  of  bar- 
barism, through  their  agency,  as  the  islands  them- 
selves have  emerged  from  the  ocean  through  the 
action  of  the  volcano. 


huts  of 


Saturday,  June  13.  The  huts  of  the  natives  dot 
with  a  cheerful  aspect  the  broad  plain  on  which  Hon- 
olulu stands,  and  stretch  away  into  the  green  gorges 
of  the  mountains.  They  resemble  in  the  distance 
ricks  of  hay,  and  you  half  persuade  yourself  that 


332  DECK   AND  PORT. 


you  have  arrived  in  a  community  of  thrifty  farmers. 
This  impression  almost  flashes  into  conviction,  when 
you  see  herds  of  cattle  reposing  in  the  valleys,  and 
goats  bounding  among  the  cliffs.  But  the  rush  of 
children  from  the  interior  of  these  hay-stacks,  and 
their  prattle  and  laughter  among  the  vines  which 
trail  their  porches,  soon  dispel  the  illusion.  You 
find  them  human  habitations,  and  possessing,  in  many 
instances,  an  air  of  surprising  neatness  and  comfort. 
True,  you  find  in  them  no  chairs,  tables,  or  ordina- 
ry cooking  utensils  ;  nor  do  the  habits  of  the  inmates 
render  these  articles  necessary.  But  you  find  thick 
mats,  on  which  they  sleep  and  sit,  as  Adam  and  Eve 
did  on  the  leaves  which  the  autumnal  wind  shook 
from  their  bowers.  They  need  no  fireplaces,  no 
glowing  grate,  or  crackling  hearth, — a  broad,  bright 
sun,  wheeling  up  in  splendor  out  of  a  quiet  ocean, 
reigns  monarch  of  the  seasons,  and  tempers  the  air 
aright.  Their  apparel  extends  but  little  beyond  the 
simplest  requirements  of  the  nursery.  It  is  a  gar- 
ment seemingly  thrown  on  for  the  sake  of  modesty, 
as  drapery  is  sometimes  attached  to  a  statue.  But 
the  proportions  still  swell  in  their  roundness  and 
strength  on  the  eye.  It  was  with  no  little  difficulty 
the  missionaries  could  persuade  them  to  assume  even 
this  scanty  garment.  It  seemed  to  them  a  super- 
fluity, suggested  neither  by  the  characteristics  of  the 
climate,  nor  sentiments  of  delicacy.     They  would 


SKETCHES  OF  HONOLULU.  333 


have  gone  without  it  as  readily  to  a  church  as  to  a 
carousal.  Such  is  habit  impressed  on  a  people  by 
the  force  of  barbaric  ages. 

Near  each  cot  you  encounter  an  oven,  not  obtru- 
ded on  your  eye  as  if  to  mock  your  hunger,  but 
modestly  sunk  in  the  earth.  The  cavity  is  lined 
with  stones,  in  which  a  fire  is  kindled  ;  when  suffi- 
ciently heated,  the  embers  are  removed,  a  few  taro- 
leaves  thrown  in,  and  on  this  the  taro  itself  and 
meat.  The  whole  is  then  covered  over  with  taro- 
leaves  and  earth.  The  meat  thus  preserves  its 
juices,  and  has  an  advantage  in  this  respect  over  all 
modern  inventions.  This  primitive  process  of  cook- 
ing is  called  the  lua. 

The  most  esteemed  roaster,  that  undergoes  the  lua, 
is  one  of  the  canine  species.  It  is  a  dog  resembling 
the  larger-sized  poodle,  with  smooth  hair  and  soft 
flesh.  It  is  nursed  at  the  breast  of  the  women,  and 
never  allowed  to  eat  animal  food.  It  is  baked  entire, 
like  the  pig,  and  is  said  to  taste  very  much  like  that 
little  grunter.  This  is  considered  the  most  choice 
dish  which  an  epicurean  chief  can  present  to  his  dis- 
tinguished guests.  I  was  earnestly  invited  to  partake 
of  one,  but  the  little  fellow's  once  cheerful  bark,  bis 
wagging  tail  in  token  of  recognition,  his  love  of  chil- 
dren, his  participation  in  their  sports,  his  gratitude 
and  unsuspecting  confidence,  were  all  too  warm  in 
my  imagination  to  permit  the  deed.     I  would  never 


334  DECK   AND  PORT. 


take  life  for  the  sake  of  animal  food,  and  least  of  all 
the  life  of  one  that  is 

"  The  first  to  welcome,  foremost  to  defend." 

In  another  hut  which  we  entered,  we  found  the 
mother  and  her  children  seated  around  a  large  cala- 
bash, which  contained  poi.  This  is  the  dish  on 
which  the  natives  mostly  subsist.  It  is  made  of  the 
root  of  the  taro  plant,  which  resembles  in  shape  the 
large  beet.  A  plat  of  low  ground  is  thrown  up  into 
little  hills  like  a  potatoe-patch,  and  water  let  in  suffi- 
cient to  fill  the  furrows.  In  these  hills  the  taro 
grows,  shaded  only  by  its  own  luxuriant  leaves.  At 
maturity,  which  it  reaches  in  a  few  months,  the  men 
and  women  dash  into  it,  and,  with  the  water  ankle- 
deep,  commence  pulling.  The  bottoms,  which  are 
intended  for  consumption,  are  conveyed  to  the  earth- 
oven  ;  being  baked,  they  are  then  pounded,  and  wa- 
ter added  till  the  mass  assumes  the  consistency  of 
paste.  In  this  state  it  undergoes  a  partial  fermenta- 
tion, and  is  then  in  prime  order  for  eating.  It  is 
conveyed  to  the  mouth  by  the  two  forefingers,  which 
are  dipped  into  it,  and  to  which  it  adheres  in  a  pen- 
dulous globule,  which  a  slight  shake  detaches. 

This  was  the  dish  to  which  the  mother  invited  us, 
and  which  it  seemed  almost  discourteous  to  decline. 
Her  little  daughter  exclaiming,  "  Mili,  mili — good," 
coaxed  me  to  let  her  drop  a  globule  of  it  from  her 


SKETCHES  OF  HONOLULU.  335 

small  fingers  into  my  mouth.  Down  it  dropped,  and 
down  it  went,  leaving  only  a  sour  taste.  I  tried  to 
keep  up  a  look  of  relish,  but  the  effort  must  have  be- 
trayed itself.  This  was  the  last  time  I  attempted 
poi.  On  this  the  natives  live,  and  their  physical  de- 
velopments sufficiently  attest  its  nutritious  proper- 
ties. Some  of  them,  who  are  exempted  by  their 
means  from  labor,  attain  a  giant  stature.  They  be- 
come extremely  fat,  and  roll  along  as  if  bone  and 
muscle  were  hardly  equal  to  the  task  of  locomotion. 
What  think  ye  of  that,  ye  carnivorous  tribe,  who 
judge  of  a  man's  bulk  by  the  amount  of  roast  beef 
which  he  consumes !  The  Hawaiian  outdoes  ye  on 
paste ! 

Sunday,  June  14.  I  have  exchanged  to-day  with 
Mr.  Damon  ;  he  taking  the  capstan  of  the  Congress, 
and  I  the  pulpit  of  the  mariners'  chapel.  The  au- 
dience both  morning  and  evening  has  been  large, 
leaving  hardly  a  vacant  seat.  It  is  composed  of  for- 
eign residents  and  sailors  in  port.  The  music,  led 
by  a  seraphine,  would  have  been  creditable  in  any 
place.  I  could  hardly  persuade  myself  that  I  was  in 
an  island  of  the  Pacific,  where  but  a  few  years  since 
the  homage  of  man  rose  only  in  howls  to  a  pagan 
idol. 

The  attendance  at  this  chapel  is  the  best  evidence 
of  the  success  with  which  Mr.  Damon  performs  the 


336  DECK  AND  PORT. 


duties  assigned  him  by  the  American  Seamen's 
Friend  Society.  But  his  sphere  of  activity  is  not 
confined  to  these  walls ;  it  extends  to  the  moral 
wants  of  the  different  ships  entering  the  harbor,  and 
embraces  also  the  management  of  a  periodical  devo- 
ted to  seamen.  This  publication  was  eagerly  sought 
by  our  crew.  To  sustain  it  a  subscription  was  pro- 
posed, which  was  headed  by  a  liberal  donation  from 
Commodore  Stockton,  Captain  Du  Pont,  and  the 
officers. 

Monday,  June  15.  There  are  two  large  churches 
for  the  natives  in  Honolulu.  The  services  in  these 
are  conducted  in  the  native  language  by  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Armstrong  and  the  Rev.  Mr.  Smith,  both  intel- 
ligent and  devoted  missionaries.  These  men  and  all 
their  brethren  occupy  a  difficult  position  in  these 
islands.  It  is  made  so,  less  by  the  fickleness  of  the 
natives  than  the  interference  of  foreigners.  The 
very  men  who,  coming  as  they  do  from  civilized  and 
Christian  lands,  should  be  the  first  to  countenance 
and  sustain  them,  are  those  from  whom  they  expe- 
rience the  most  opposition.  It  seems  impossible  to 
avoid  their  cavils.  If  the  missionaries  devote  them- 
selves exclusively  to  their  spiritual  duties,  the  com- 
plaint is,  that  the  temporal  interests  of  the  commu- 
nity are  neglected.  If  they  interest  themselves  in 
the  encouragement  of  agriculture  and  the  mechanic 


SKETCHES  OF  HONOLULU  337 

arts,  the  cry  is.  that  they  are  interfering  in  secular 
matters  which  do  not  belong  to  them.  Between 
these  two  rocks  no  ship  can  pass  without  having  her 
copper  raked  off  on  one  side  or  the  other. 

The  truth  *is,  the  missionaries  are  pursuing  the 
only  plan  which  can  produce  decisive  and  satisfac- 
tory results.  They  are  inculcating  the  precepts  and 
obligations  of  the  Bible  on  all  classes,  and  educating 
the  young.  Their  schools  embrace  hundreds  of  na- 
tive children,  who  will  themselves  become  teachers. 
In  one  of  these  schools,  which  is  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cook,  I  found  the  children 
of  the  high  chiefs,  and  among  them  the  heir-appa- 
rent. They  spoke  the  English  language  with  entire 
freedom,  and  wrote  it  with  surprising  accuracy. 
Their  acquirements,  in  all  the  branches  of  a  useful 
education,  would  have  done  credit  to  youth  of  the 
same  age  in  any  country.  In  mental  arithmetic,  I 
have  never  seen  them  surpassed.  They  multiplied 
five  decimals  by  five,  named  at  random,  and  gave 
the  result,  with  perfect  accuracy,  in  less  time  than 
any  one  could  possibly  have  reached  it  on  a  slate. 
We  now  adjourned  with  the  scholars  to  the  parlor, 
where  Mrs.  Cook  placed  one  of  the  misses  at  the 
piano,  while  another  took  the  guitar,  and  they  all 
struck  into  a  melody  that  might  have  gratified  a 
more  fastidious  taste  than  ours. 

Now  these  are  the  children  of  the  chiefs — their 
29 


338  DECK  AND  PORT. 


sons,  and  their  daughters  ;  those  whose  intelligence 
and  influence  are  to  shape  the  destinies  of  these  isl- 
ands. If  this  is  not  beginning  at  the  right  end  of 
the  business,  I  should  like  to  have  some  one  tell  us 
where  the  right  end  is. 

Tuesday,  June  16.  My  kanacka  brought  me  his 
horse  this  afternoon  punctual  at  the  hour.  This 
horse,  a  noble  animal,  is  all  his  capital.  I  give  him 
a  dollar  a  day  for  the  use  ;  can  have  him  at  any  and 
all  hours,  though  I  seldom  ride  but  once.  This  is 
enough,  unless  the  showers  hold  up  more  than  they 
have ;  for  they  now  fall  as  easily  as  a  hasty  word 
from  a  heated  heart ;  or  a  blow  from  the  ferule  of  a 
vexed  pedagogue ;  or  a  yellow  leaf  from  the  twig  of 
a  blighted  tree ;  or  a  false  smile  from  the  eyes  of  a 
cunning  coquette  ;  or  a  hollow  nut  from  the  teeth  of 
a  squirrel ;  or  a  silver  eel  from  the  hand  of  a  fisher- 
man ;  or  any  thing  else,  which  escapes  very  easily 
from  its  confinement. 

My  fair  companion  being  firmly  in  her  saddle,  we 
started,  at  an  easy  canter,  over  the  plain,  which 
stretches  away  from  the  eastern  section  of  the  town. 
We  passed  on  the  right  the  royal  mausoleum,  lifting 
its  sombre  roof  over  the  coffins  of  barbaric  kings. 
Before  Christianity,  with  her  silent  rites,  reached 
these  islands,  the  death  of  a  monarch  or  sachem  was 
followed  by  a  wail  that  poured  itself  over  hill  and 


SKETCHES  OF  HONOLULU.  339 

vale,  in  a  roaring  tide.  Then  followed  a  scene  of 
promiscuous  licentiousness,  from  which  the  orbs  of 
heaven  might  have  withdrawn  their  light.  Over  these 
obscene  orgies  Christianity  has  spread  her  influences, 
and  the  dead  now  go  quietly  to  their  rest,  and  the 
living  lay  it  to  heart. 

Further  on,  we  passed  through  a  cocoanut-grove. 
This  singular  tree  shoots  up  some  fifty  feet,  without 
seeming  to  knowr  for  what  purpose  ;  it  then  suddenly 
branches  out,  and  is  so  eager  in  this  spreading  busi- 
ness that  it  seems  to  lose  its  soaring  ambition  ;  and 
there  it  stands,  like  a  naked  shaft,  with  its  umbrella- 
shaped  top.  Its  broad  leaves  hang  down  as  if  to  con- 
ceal its  blushes.  It  is  naked  as  sin  driven  from  its 
last  subterfuge.  It  fain  would  reconcile  you  to  its 
deformity  by  its  milk ;  but  this  is  as  insipid  as  its 
own  look  is  foolish.  This  tree,  with  a  half-naked 
kanacka  climbing  its  shaft,  is  the  most  effective  pic- 
ture of  poverty  with  which  I  have  ever  met.  It  is, 
if  possible,  worse  than  a  monkey  on  the  sign-post  of 
a  groggery,  beckoning  to  his  fellow-topers  to  come 
in.  But  the  decoy,  in  this  case,  wiser  than  the  dupe, 
never  drinks. 

We  passed  near  the  shore  a  large  number  of  ca- 
noes, in  which  the  natives  were  engaged  in  fishing. 
They  keep  them  pointed  towards  the  s.-a.  and  one 
person  vigorously  ;tt  work  with  the  paddles,  bo  that 
the  rollers,  which  set  in  here  with  great  force,  may 


340  DECK   AND  PORT. 


not  heave  them  high  and  dry  on  the  beach.  They 
show  great  skill  in  the  management  of  these  treach- 
erous canoes.  A  novice  would  upset  one  before  he 
was  well  in.  They  are  often  themselves  capsized, 
but  it  costs  them  only  a  ducking  ;  the  canoe  is  in- 
stantly righted,  and,  they  are  back  again  in  its  hol- 
low. As  for  the  water,  it  is  almost  as  much  their 
element  as  that  of  the  fish  for  which  they  angle. 
They  can  dive  from  ten  to  fifteen  fathoms,  and  bring 
up  shells  ;  or  swim  many  miles  without  apparent  fa- 
tigue. There  is  a  native  woman,  now  living  in 
Honolulu,  who,  being  wrecked  at  sea,  swam  twenty 
miles  to  the  shore  of  a  neighboring  island.  Her  hus- 
band, of  feebler  constitution,  gave  out ;  she  buoyed 
him  up,  swimming  with  him  till  they  had  come  in 
sight  of  the  shore,  when  he  sank  overpowered.  Still 
she  clung  to  him,  and  brought  the  lifeless  form  to  the 
beach.     Give  me  a  kanacka  wife  in  a  gale. 

Winding  around  a  bay  which  circles  up,  with  a 
rippling  verge,  into  the  mainland,  we  arrived  at  the 
blackened  ruins  of  a  celebrated  heathen  temple.  The 
rude  foundations  only  remain  ;  the  superstructure 
has  been  swept  away  with  the  savage  rites  which  it 
enshrined.  The  smoke  of  human  victims  here  ap- 
peased the  violated  tabu,  and  the  putrid  exhalations  ' 
of  decaying  beasts  cancelled  the  turpitude  of  human 
guilt.  But  Revelation  has  poured  its  clear  light  into 
its  dark  recesses.     The  sorcerer  has  fled,  the  victim 


SKETCHES  OF  HONOLULU.  311 

been   unbound,  and   the    guilty   have   gone   to  that 
mercy-seat  where  penitence  never  pleads  in  vain. 

High  over  these  fearful  ruins  soars  the  steep  crater 
of  an  extinguished  volcano,  to  which  a  capricious  fan- 
cy has  given  the  appellation  of  Diamond  Hill.  It  still 
stands  in  all  the  stern  ruggedness  which  its  adaman- 
tine features  assumed,  when,  ages  since,  its  burning 
torrents  of  lava  stiffened  into  rock.  It  is  now  the  bea- 
con of  the  mariner  ;  the  first  that  greets  his  glance, 
and  the  last  that  fades  upon  his  eye.  Against  its 
base  the  broad  Pacific  heaves  its  swelling  strength  ; 
but  it  will  stand  unshaken  till  the  pillars  of  nature's 
vast  fabric  fall. 

We  passed,  on  our  return,  the  king's  chapel,  a 
spacious  edifice,  of  one  hundred  and  fifty-four  feet 
by  seventy-eight.  It  is  reared  of  coral  rock,  hewn 
into  uniform  blocks,  and  impresses  you  with  its  ar- 
chitectural sobriety  and  strength.  The  interior  of 
its  high  walls  is  relieved  by  a  substantial  gallery, 
while  the  ample  area  of  its  floor  presents  to  the  eye, 
in  the  form  of  seats,  the  varied  means  and  ingenuity 
of  their  occupants.  The  pulpit  is  the  same  which 
once  gravely  dignified  the  central  church  in  .\<w 
Haven,  Conn.,  but  which  a  more  fastidious  Uste  re- 
cently set  aside.  It  answers  its  sacred  design  v»-ry 
well  here.  Sinners  are  converted  under  its  drop- 
pings just  as  readily  as  if  the  marbles  of  Carrara 
gleamed  from  its  panels.  The  truth  of  God  falls 
29* 


342  DECK  AND  PORT. 


with  the  same  power  in  the  sumptuous  shrine  of  the 
prince  and  the  wigwam  of  the  savage.  The  towers 
of  the  triple  crown,  and  the  tent  of  the  Arab,  tremble 
alike  beneath  its  force. 

The  sun  had  set  before  we  reached  our  home. 
The  bustle  through  many  of  the  streets  had  subsided ; 
but  the  loud  words  and  laughter  of  the  crowd  that 
had  gathered  to  witness  the  approach  of  a  strange 
sail,  came  floating  on  the  wind.  The  hour  of  ten  is 
announced  by  a  gun  from  the  fort, — a  signal  for  the 
keepers  of  pulperias  and  places  of  amusement  to 
close  their  doors.  The  king  himself,  if  abroad,  though 
engaged  in  a  game  of  chess,  would  forego  the  triumph 
of  a  checkmate,  and  return  to  his  palace.  He  aims, 
in  this  particular  at  least,  to  maintain  a  wholesome 
regulation  through  the  influence  of  his  own  example. 
Prouder  potentates  may  laugh  at  this  punctilio  of  his 
Hawaiian  majesty,  but  were  they  to  imitate  it,  their 
thrones  would  be  quite  as  safe  and  their  subjects 
quite  as  virtuous.  A  good  example  is  like  a  guinea, 
which  shines  just  as  bright,  however  deep  and  dark 
the  mine  from  which  it  came.  Our  wisest  lessons 
often  come  from  our  inferiors,  as  the  choicest  fruit  is 
frequently  found  on  the  humblest  shrub.  The  con- 
dor may  dwell  in  the  lofty  steeps  of  the  mountain, 
but  it  is  to  the  modest  thrush  or  meadow-lark  that 
we  turn  for  a  gush  of  music. 


SKETCHES  OF  HONOLULU.  313 


Wednesday,  June  17.  Mr.  Damon  and  myself 
took  horses  this  morning  for  Ewa,  lying  in  a  \  alley, 
which  opens  on  the  sea,  and  distant  some  twelve 
miles.  Our  horses  were  in  fine  spirits,  and  started 
off  at  a  hand-gallop,  across  the  broad  lagoon,  which 
skirts  the  western  extremity  of  the  town.  Over  this 
fertile  interval  swell  many  round  knolls,  crowned  with 
kanacka  huts,  and  surrounded  with  thrifty  taro  patches. 
Ascending  the  spur  of  a  mountain  range,  a  deep,  green 
valley  opened  on  the  right,  through  which  a  winding 
rivulet  babbled,  and  where  herds  were  seen  cropping 
the  grass,  or  ruminating  in  the  shade.  From  its 
bosom  rose  the  Avails  of  a  spacious  enclosure,  into 
which  the  cattle,  horses,  and  sheep  are  driven  at 
night, — to  protect  them,  as  one  would  suppose,  from 
ravenous  beasts  ;  but  there  are  none  in  the  island  : 
the  object  is  to  keep  them  from  straying  off  among 
the  mountains,  and  becoming  too  wild  for  domestic 
purposes ;  for  every  thing  here  runs  instinctively  to 
wildness. 

Further  on,  we  passed  upon  the  left  a  lofty  rock, 
over  the  sleep  stern  face  of  which  a  convolvulus  had 
spread  its  verdure,  throwing  out  its  green  leaves  and 
delicate  blossoms,  like  smiles  on  the  face  of  a  hypo- 
chondriac. Here  we  met  a  native  driving  two  large 
pigs  to  market,  and  carrying  a  third  lashed  to  Ins 
back.  I  expected  to  hear  a  squeal  at  least  from  Ins 
living  knapsack  ;  but   the   mouth  had  been   tied  up, 


344  DECK  AND  PORT. 


leaving  only  room  through  the  nostril  for  air.  When 
the  pig  is  to  be  killed,  no  knife  is  drawn,  no  blood 
taken  ;  but  this  cord  around  the  nose  is  tightened  till 
respiration  ceases,  and  death  ensues.  Rather  a  hard 
end  awaits  the  poor  pig,  whether  it  come  by  knife  or 
cord ;  and  yet  no  other  animal,  in  his  last  struggles, 
has  so  little  sympathy.  That  he  is  uncomely,  is  most 
true,  but  he  did  not  select  his  own  shape ;  and  true 
it  is,  that  his  habits  are  not  quite  neat,  but  he  has 
been  turned  out  of  doors,  and  left  to  shirk  and  shack 
for  himself.  It  was  not  his  fault  that  the  devil  once 
got  into  him,  and  run  him  down  a  steep  ledge  into 
the  sea.  The  devil  leads  his  betters  to  a  much  worse 
place.  I  see  not  therefore  why  all  feeling  should  be 
denied  the  pig  in  death.     But  let  that  pass. 

Proceeding  on,  we  soon  reached  the  precipice 
which  overhangs  the  deep  ravine,  through  which  the 
Pearl  river  holds  its  exulting  course.  Here  we  might 
have  stopped ;  but  our  horses,  which  well  understand 
these  difficult  paths,  and  are  as  sure  of  foot  as  the 
chamois,  wound  down  the  steep,  and  hurried,  with 
clattering  hoof,  over  the  bridge  which  spans  the  rush- 
ing stream ;  and  then  swept  up  the  opposite  eleva- 
tion at  the  top  of  their  speed.  Ewa  now  broke  on 
the  eye,  swelling  from  a  wide  verdant  plain,  embow- 
ered in  shade,  and  looking  out  on  the  sea.  A  wind- 
ing path,  which  obeyed  the  curve  of  the  shore,  took 
us  into  the  heart  of  the  little  village,  where  we  alight- 


SKETCHES  OF  HONOLULU.  345 

ed  at  the  door  of  our  venerable  host,  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Bishop. 

This  devoted  missionary  was  at  the  time  with  his 
sable  flock  in  the  church,  where  he  meets  them  once 
a  week,  independent  of  the  Sabbath.  They  look  up 
to  him  with  feelings  which  only  goodness  can  merit 
and  reverence  inspire  ;  and  well  may  they  pay  him 
these  tokens  of  love  and  respect.  He  has  been  long 
with  them,  restraining  their  wild  propensities,  train- 
ing them  to  habits  of  industry,  and  leading  them  to 
the  path  of  immortal  life.  This  is  with  him  a  labor 
of  love.  The  stipend  allowed  him  by  our  Board  of 
Foreign  Missions  is  all  spent  in  maintaining  schools 
and  destitute  places  of  worship.  He  lives  on  the 
proceeds  of  a  dairy,  which  his  good  wife  manages. 
If  this  be  not  Christian  benevolence,  will  some  oppo- 
nent of  the  missionary  enterprise  tell  me  what  is. 

The  house  of  Father  Bishop,  as  he  is  familiarly 
called,  is  a  plain,  one-story  building,  with  a  rude  porch 
running  around  it,  covered  with  the  vines  of  the 
creeping-grape.  It  stands  in  the  midst  of  fruit  and 
shade  trees,  which  throw  their  shadows  to  the  verge 
of  a  garden,  where  the  varied  plants  of  a  tropical 
clime  are  in  luxuriant  bloom.  Yet  every  thing 
seemed  as  free  of  display  and  mechanical  arrange- 
ment as  if  its  growth  had  been  spontaneous.  The 
family  consisted  of  Mrs.  B.,  two  sprightly  native 
children,  whose  mother  had  recently  died,  and  a  ka- 


346  DECK   AND  PORT. 


nacka  domestic.  At  two  o'clock  we  sat  down  to 
dinner,  which  consisted  of  mullet,  presented  our  host 
by  a  native  chief,  and  a  turkey  of  his  own  raising. 
Then  came  figs  and  milk,  with  the  fruits  of  his  gar- 
den. All  presenting  a  pleasing  specimen  of  pastoral 
life. 

After  a  siesta,  to  which  the  climate  here  inclines 
one,  we  rambled  over  the  parsonage,  among  the  neat 
huts  of  the  natives,  and,  at  about  two  hours  to  sunset, 
took  our  departure.  We  soon  fell  in  with  a  herd  of 
cattle,  which  two  or  three  noisy  kanackas  on  horse- 
back were  driving  to  their  enclosure  for  the  night. 
When  a  beast  attempted  to  break  away,  one  of  these 
started  in  pursuit ;  and  instead  of  heading  off  the  an- 
imal, brought  him  up  with  the  lasso,  which  he  threw, 
with  surprising  dexterity,  over  his  horns.  In  one  of 
the  narrow  runnels  which  crosses  the  last  lagoon,  we 
found  a  horse,  which  had  missed  his  step  on  the  two 
logs  which  compose  the  bridge.  The  channel  was 
only  broad  enough  to  let  in  the  length  of  the  horse, 
and  on  each  bank  stood  a  kanacka,  the  one  hold  of 
the  bridle,  the  other  hold  of  the  tail,  trying  to  lift  the 
animal  out.  We  told  one  of  them  to  jump  in  and 
turn  the  head  of  the  horse  up  stream,  and  the  other 
to  drop  the  tail  and  take  his  whip.  These  orders 
obeyed,  the  animal  gave  a  spring,  and  was  soon  out 
of  his  difficulties. 

We   reached   home   before   dark :    we   had   rode 


SKETCHES  OF  HONOLULU.  347 

twenty-four  miles  on  a  road  running  over  steep 
ledges,  across  deep  ravines,  and  around  toppling 
crags  :  I  was  bruised  and  fatigued,  and  determined 
to  try,  before  retiring  to  rest,  the  bath  and  the  "  l<»mi- 
lomi."  The  latter  is  a  kind  of  shampooing  much  re- 
sorted to  here  to  relieve  fatigue.  A  kanacka  who 
understood  it  was  at  hand,  and,  on  my  coming  out 
of  the  bath,  commenced  his  kneading  process.  He 
used  me  much  as  a  baker  would  a  lump  of  dough. 
He  worked  me  into  this  shape,  then  into  that,  then 
into  no  shape  at  all.  My  limbs  became  flat,  or 
round,  or  neither,  at  his  will.  My  muscles  were  all 
relaxed,  and  my  joints  seemed  to  have  lost  a  sense  of 
location.  He  put  me  back  into  the  shape  in  which 
I  came  from  nature's  mould,  and  I  sunk  to  sleep  soft- 
ly as  an  infant  in  its  cradle.  Ye  who  take  to  ano- 
dynes and  inebriating  potations  to  relieve  a  sense  of 
pain,  restlessness,  or  fatigue,  try  the  lomi-lomi. 


348 


CHAPTER   XII. 

SKETCHES  OF  HONOLULU. 

THE  KING  AND    COURT. AMERICAN    COMMISSIONER. — ROYAL    RESIDENCE. — 

THE  SALT  LAKE. — SURF  SPORTS  OF  THE    NATIVES. GALA  DAY. — THE  WO- 
MEN ON  HORSEBACK. SAILOR'S  EQUESTRIANISM. THE  OLD  MAN  AND  THE 

CHILDREN  AT  PLAY. ADDRESS    OF    COM.    STOCKTON. — CAPT.  LA  PLACE. 

HIS  JESUITS  AND  BRANDY. LORD  GEORGE  PAULET. 

Thursday,  June  18.  To-day,  at  twelve,  the  offi- 
cers of  the  Congress,  and  Captain  Harrison,  of  the 
schooner  Shark,  assembled  at  Commodore  Stockton's 
rooms,  and  proceeded  in  a  body  to  the  royal  palace. 
The  object  was  the  installation  of  Mr.  Ten  Eyk  in 
his  new  functions  as  United  States  Commissioner  at 
this  court.  We  were  received,  on  our  arrival,  by  a 
small  guard  posted  at  the  palace,  and  conducted  into  a 
spacious  central  hall.  From  this  we  were  ushered  into 
a  large  saloon,  rather  plainly  furnished,  but  light  and 
airy.  In  front  of  us  stood  the  king,  with  the  heir- 
apparent  and  high  chiefs  on  the  right,  and  his  cabinet 
on  the  left. 

Ex-commissioner  Brown  advised  his  majesty  of  his 
recall,  and  introduced  his  successor,  Mr.  Ten  Eyk, 
who  presented  to  the  king  an  autograph  letter  from 
the  President  of  the  United  States,  which  he  accom- 
panied with  some  appropriate  remarks.     These  were 


SKETCHES  OF  HONOLULU.  319 

followed  by  a  brief  address  from  Commodore  Stock- 
ton, in  which  he  expressed  the  earnest  hope  that  un- 
interrupted amity  might  prevail  between  the  two 
countries.  He  assured  the  king  of  the  lively  interest 
felt  in  the  United  States  for  the  successful  issue  of 
all  his  majesty's  plans  and  purposes  for  the  benefit  of 
his  people,  and  pledged  the  cordial  support  of  our 
government  in  any  aggressive  emergencies,  which 
might  threaten  the  tranquillity  and  integrity  of  his 
realm. 

To  each  of  these  addresses  the  king  made  a  brief 
and  pertinent  reply.  Not  having  sufficient  confi- 
dence in  his  English,  he  spoke  in  the  native  lan- 
guage,— his  minister  of  finance,  Mr.  Judd,  acting  as 
interpreter.  There  was  no  parade,  or  affectation  of 
court  phraseology  in  what  he  said.  His  language 
was  remarkable  for  its  directness  and  simplicity. 
His  reply  concluded  with  these  words:  "Commo- 
dore, I  thank  you  for  your  visit  to  our  islands ; 
your  words  will  long  be  remembered  ;  may  you  be 
happy."  The  king  is  about  thirty-four  years  of  |M, 
of  a  stout  frame,  dark  complexion,  and  with  good  hu- 
mor, rather  than  strength  of  intellect,  betrayed  in  his 
features.  He  wore  a  blue  military  uniform,  with 
gold  epaulettes  and  sword.  The  prince  and  chiefs 
were  without  any  badge  of  distinction,  except  a  star 
worn  on  the  breast.  Their  costume  was  all  in  the 
European  style.     The  cabinet,  consisting  of  the  min- 

30 


350  DECK  AND  PORT. 


ister  of  finance,  the  minister  of  foreign  affairs,  the 
minister  of  instruction,  and  the  attorney-general,  all 
of  whom,  except  the  second,  are  Americans,  were  in 
plain  garb.  You  see  more  parade  at  Rome  in  five 
minutes,  when  the  Pope  steps  from  the  Vatican  into 
St.  Peter's,  or  a  red-stockinged  cardinal  enters  his 
carriage,  than  you  would  here  in  six  months. 

The  king  confides  the  affairs  of  government  very 
much  to  his  ministers.  Succeeding  to  power  at  an 
early  age,  without  a  political  education,  or  establish- 
ed principles  of  action,  his  policy  would  be  incon- 
sistent and  wavering,  but  for  the  steady  influence  of 
those  around  him.  He  evinces  his  moderation  in 
foregoing  the  dictates  of  an  arbitrary  will,  and  con- 
sulting the  judgments  of  those  whose  intelligence 
and  experience  have  given  them  a  broader  scope  of 
vision.  The  foreigners  who  have  settled  in  his 
island,  and  who  seek  to  undermine  the  influence  of 
his  counsellors,  are  the  most  subtle  and  dangerous 
enemies  with  which  he  has  to  contend.  Their  selfish 
and  mischievous  dispositions  are  masked  under  pro- 
fessions of  friendship.  They  talk  of  changes  for  the 
the  better,  but  they  aim  at  revolution.  They  are 
willing  to  run  the  hazard  of  the  great  political  earth- 
quake, for  the  chance  of  being  hove  into  stations 
of  emolument  and  power.  But  if  the  present  social 
fabric  falls,  they  will  be  buried  in  its  ruins ;  and 
there  they  may  lie,  sepulchred  under  the  horrors  of 


SKETCHES  OF  HONOLULU.  351 

a  betrayed  people,  and  the  execrations  of  the  civil- 
ized world. 

Preparations  are  making  for  the  erection  of  a 
royal  residence,  which  shall  be  in  keeping  with  the 
progress  of  the  arts  in  these  islands.  The  mansion 
at  present  occupied  by  the  king,  is  the  property  of 
one  of  his  chiefs.  It  is  built  of  coral  ;  a  graceful 
portico  adorns  the  front,  and  the  whole  is  surmount- 
ed by  an  elegant  belvidere.  The  grounds  are  ample, 
tastefully  laid  out,  and  shaded  by  beautiful  forest 
trees.  No  splendid  coach  dashes  through  its  ave- 
nues ;  no  train  of  servile  retainers  lounge  in  its 
shades ;  no  throng  of  parasites  disturb  its  domestic 
quietude  and  social  ease. 

The  amusements  of  the  king  are  with  the  bow 
and  arrow,  in  his  bowling-alley,  and  at  his  billiard- 
table.  In  these  pastimes  he  is  cheek-by-jowl  with 
his  chiefs,  and  any  well-bred  gentleman.  He  was 
inclined  in  his  youth  to  habits  of  dissipation  ;  and 
often  drained,  at  the  expense  of  his  dignity,  the  ine- 
briating bowl.  But  he  is  now  at  the  head  of  a  na- 
tional temperance  society.  He  is  perhaps  the  only 
monarch,  civilized  or  savage,  who  has  abjured,  in 
his  own  example,  all  intoxicating  drinks.  Go,  ye 
potentates  of  prouder  thrones,  and  take  a  lesson  of 
practical  wisdom  from  this  sable  brother. 

Friday,  June  19.     Our  ride  to-day  has  been  to  the 


352  DECK  AND  PORT. 


Salt  Lake,  which  lies  some  five  miles  west  of  the 
town,  on  the  margin  of  the  sea.  It  is  cradled  in  the 
crater  of  an  old  volcano.  You  reach  it  by  a  steep 
ascent  of  one  hundred  feet,  and  rapid  descent  of  as 
many  more.  It  is  the  third  of  a  mile  in  circuit ;  and, 
standing  by  its  breathless  margin,  the  rock-bound 
rim  of  the  hollow  cone  soars  above  you  in  wild  gran- 
deur. 

The  lake  is  on  a  level  with  the  sea,  and  is  un- 
doubtedly fed  from  it  through  unseen  fissures.  The 
salt  is  crystalized  out  of  the  water,  through  a  rapid 
evaporation,  occasioned  by  the  intense  heat  to  which 
it  is  subjected.  It  steams  up  as  if  the  central  fires, 
which  once  found  an  escape  here,  were  again  seek- 
ing for  a  vent.  Should  they  burst  forth,  this  lake 
will  be  thrown  sky-high  ;  and  not  only  the  geologist 
be  bereaved  of  a  rare  curiosity,  and  the  king  deprived 
of  an  important  source  of  revenue,  but  the  kanacka 
will  be  obliged  to  eat  his  poi  and  fish  without  salt. 

Nothing  here  has  amused  me  more  than  the  surf- 
sports  of  the  young  chiefs.  Each  takes  a  smooth 
board,  of  some  eight  feet  in  length,  leads  it  over  the 
coral  shallows  far  out  into  the  sea,  and  when  a  tre- 
mendous roller  is  coming  in,  jumps  upon  it,  and  the 
l'oller  carries  him  upon  its  combing  top,  with  the 
speed  of  an  arrow,  to  the  shore.  A  young  Ameri- 
can, who  was  among  them,  not  liking  to  be  outdone 
in  a  sport  which  seemed  so  simple,  thought  he  would 


SKETCHES   OF  HONOLULU.  3f>3 

try  the  board  and  billow.  He  ventured  out  a  short 
distance,  watched  his  opportunity,  and,  as  the  roller 
came,  jumped  upon  his  plank,  was  capsized,  and  hove, 
half  strangled,  on  the  beach. 

"  There,  breathless,  -with  liis  digging  nails  he  clung 
Fast  to  the  sand,  lest  the  returning  wave, 
From  whose  reluctant  roar  his  life  he  wrung, 
Should  suck  lain  back  to  her  insatiate  grave." 

The  young  females  are  as  fond  of  the  water  as  the 
men.  We  passed  in  a  boat  yesterday  a  group  of 
them  sitting  on  the  coral  reef  a  mile  out  at  sea. 
They  were  enjoying  the  surf,  which  broke  over  them 
with  each  successive  billow.  Now  and  then  a 
stronger  wave  would  sweep  some  of  them  from  their 
perch,  and  bear  them  to  a  great  distance  in  its  whirl- 
ing foam.  But  they  would  soon  swim  back  again 
amidst  the  laughter  of  their  companions.  They  were 
without  covering,  and  plunged  under  the  water  till 
our  boat  had  got  past,  and  then  recovered  their  posi- 
tion on  the  reef;  and  there  they  sat  like  mermaids, 

Serene  amid  the  breakers'  roar, 
Their  dark  look*  Boating  on  the  sur^e, 

Attuning  shells,  through  which  they  pour 
The  solemn  ocean's  mimic  dirge. 

Saturday,  June  20.     Saturday  here  is  a  gala-day, 
especially  the  afternoon,  when  the  natives  give  them- 
selves up  to  amusement.     Every  horse  is  in  requisi- 
30* 


354  DECK  AND  POUT. 


tion  ;  and  though  often  without  saddle  or  bridle,  has 
a  rider  on  him,  who  is  dashing  about  like  an  adjutant 
at  a  regimental  training.  The  great  plain  at  the  east- 
ern end  of  the  town  is  alive  with  groups  that  have 
collected  to  witness  or  participate  in  the  fun.  The 
variety  of  colors,  which  blended  their  hues  in  Jo- 
seph's coat,  hold  no  comparison  with  the  motley  dyes 
which  flare  up  here  in  the  costume  of  the  crowd. 
They  resemble  the  tints  of  the  forest,  when  the  au- 
tumn's breath  has  touched  its  leaves  with  frost ;  the 
foam  of  ocean  breaking  over  their  coral  reef  is  not 
more  tumultuous  than  the  roar  and  rush  of  these  liv- 
ing tides. 

Here  streams  away  a  valetudinarian,  whose  puny 
frame  has  been  borne  to  this  shore  like  a  bubble 
from  some  foreign  clime.  His  light  horse,  fleet  of 
foot,  heeds  his  weight  as  little  as  if  he  were  an  elf 
that  had  left  the  forest  to  frolic  on  the  green.  His 
thin  legs  lie  in  the  shadow  of  his  stirrup-straps,  while 
his  sharp  face  peers  up  between  the  high  pommel  and 
stern  of  his  saddle  like  a  famished  owl,  watching  be- 
tween two  old  turrets  a  lunar  eclipse. 

Near  him  dashes  on  the  wife  of  a  chief,  whose  vast 
bulk  shakes  over  the  plunge  of  her  strong  horse  as 
if  the  fat  would  fall  from  her  sides  in  living  flakes. 
The  broad  leaves  of  the  koa  tremble  in  the  chaplet 
that  encircles  her  head ;  her  great  shawl  floats  on 
the  wind  like  a  topsail,  while  the  vast  sweep  of  her 


SKETCHES  OF  HONOLULU.  355 

garments  rolls  down  over  her  courser's  sides  like  the 
folds  of  an  Arab's  tent.  By  the  side  of  her  puny  at- 
tendant she  shows  like  the  full-orbed  moon  with  a 
little  star  twinkling  near  her  rim  ;  or  like  a  giant  oak 
with  an  alder  in  its  shade;  or  like  a  ship-of-the-line 
with  a  cockle-boat  under  her  lee. 

Here  sweeps  past  a  compact  figure  on  a  horse  half 
wild  from  the  woods.  His  white  trowsers,  his  blue 
roundabout,  and  tarpaulin  with  its  yard  of  black  rib- 
bon streaming  over  the  right  ear,  show  him  to  be  a 
tar  fresh  from  the  deck.  His  hammock-blanket,  with 
its  nettings  for  a  girth,  serve  him  for  a  saddle  ;  while 
his  bridle  is  a  rope  bent  on  a  small  anchor,  which  is 
wreathed  with  leaves  and  flowers,  and  which  he  can 
let  go,  when  he  would  bring  up  his  unkeeled  craft. 
A  shout  follows  wherever  his  unmanageable  horse 
dashes, — unless  it  be  among  the  crowd,  and  then 
there  is  such  a  scattering  as  there  would  be  among 
sheep  at  the  pounce  of  a  wolf,  or  among  pigeons  at 
the  swoop  of  the  hawk. 

Foremost  in  a  gazing  group  bends  an  aged  chief, 
who  has  come  out  to  see  one  gala  day  more  before 
he  descends  to  the  land  of  shadows.  He  erects  his 
tall  stature,  but  not  in  pride,  and  half  forgets  the  tufted 
wand  that  has  long  sustained  his  tottering  years. 
He  thinks  not  of  the  feathered  mantle  which  tails 
from  his  shoulders,  or  the  badges  of  rank  which  glit- 
ter on  his  breast.     His  eyes  are  on  a  group  of  chil- 


356 


DECK  AND  PORT. 


dren  wildly  at  play.  Fourscore  summers  have  shed 
their  vernal  honors  since  he  was  young  as  they,  and 
yet  their  glee  this  day  makes  his  pulses  fly  as  if  he 
were  again  a  child.  He  watches  their  light  foot- 
steps, their  laughing  eyes,  and  timid  hands  as  they 
garland  with  flowers  the  arching  horns  of  the  old  pa- 
triarch of  his  flock. 


"  A  band  of  children,  round  a  snow-white  ram, 

There  wreathe  his  venerable  horns  with  flowers ; 

While  peaceful  as  if  still  an  unweaned  lamb, 
The  patriarch  of  the  flock  all  gently  cowers 

His  sober  head  majestically  tame, 

Or  eats  from  out  the  palm,  or  playful  lowers 

His  brow  as  if  in  act  to  butt,  and  then, 

Yielding  to  their  small  hands,  draws  back  again." 


SKETCHES  OF  HONOLULU.  357 

Sunday,  June  21.  I  exchanged  with  Mr.  Damon 
this  morning ;  he  officiating  on  board  the  Congress, 
while  I  took  his  place  in  the  Seamen's  chapel.  The 
frigate  had  the  advantage  in  the  arrangement,  but  I 
intend  to  look  out  for  my  floating  parish.  In  the 
afternoon  I  was,  by  appointment,  in  the  pulpit  of  the 
ting's  chapel.  The  spacious  edifice  was  crowded. 
'  His  majesty,  the  court,  and  chiefs  were  present,  and 
an  auditory  of  some  three  thousand.  They  had  as- 
sembled under  the  vague  expectation  that  Commo- 
dore Stockton  might  address  them,  for  a  report  to 
that  effect,  without  the  commodore's  knowledge,  had 
been  circulated  through  the  town.  I  felt,  in  common 
with  the  missionaries,  a  desire  that  they  should  not 
be  disappointed.  But  as  the  commodore  was  wholly 
unprepared,  and  averse  to  any  arrangements  that 
might  seemingly  trench  upon  proprieties,  it  was  no 
easy  matter  to  have  their  wishes  realized. 

Backed  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Armstrong,  I  made  a  bold 
push,  and,  having  addressed  the  audience  fur  halt  an 
hour,  through  him  as  interpreter,  on  the  religious  en- 
terprises in  our  own  country,  which  were  throwing 
their  light  and  influence  iat<>  other  lands,  stated  that 
I  was  aware  of  their  desire  that  Commodore  Stock- 
ton should  address  them,  and  that  I  would  take  the 
liberty  of  expressing  the  hope  that  he  would  gratify 
their  wishes.  He  was  sitting  at  the  time  by  the  side 
of  the   king;    and   while  the  choir   were   singing  a 


358  DECK   AND  PORT. 


hymn,  Mr.  Armstrong  descended  from  the  pulpit  and 
urged  with  him  the  public  expectation.  He  finally 
assented,  and  taking  the  platform  under  the  pulpit, 
commenced  a  train  of  pertinent  and  eloquent  re- 
marks. 

He  spoke  of  the  previous  condition  of  those  around 
him, — of  the  dark  and  cruel  rites  in  which  their  an- 
cestors were  involved, — of  the  humanizing  and  ele-* 
vating  influences  of  that  Christianity  which  had 
reached  them, — of  the  philanthropy,  faith,  and  devo- 
tedness  of  their  missionaries, — of  the  destruction  of 
nations  where  the  true  God  was  disowned,  and  of  the 
stability  of  governments  and  institutions  founded  on 
the  precepts  and  moral  obligations  of  the  Bible.  He 
adjured  them,  by  all  the  hopes  and  fears  which  be- 
tide humanity,  to  persevere  in  their  great  and  good 
work  of  social,  civil,  and  moral  improvement.  He 
urged  upon  them  systematic  industry,  wholesome 
rules  and  regulations  in  their  domestic  economy,  a 
respect  for  law  and  order,  the  advantages  of  educa- 
tion, the  importance  of  the  Sabbath-school  system, 
the  necessity  of  temperance  ;  and  assured  them,  that 
in  all  their  good  endea#)rs  they  would  have  the 
sympathy  and  support  of  the  Christian  world. 

Such  was  the  tenor  of  his  remarks,  which  were  de- 
livered with  as  much  freedom  and  force  as  if  they 
had  been  well-considered  and  arranged.  Their  effect 
was  obvious  in  the  eager  attention  which  pervaded 


SKETCHES  OF  HONOLULU.  359 

the  great  assemblage.  At  the  conclusion,  the  king 
and  the  chiefs  came  up,  and,  with  undisguised  emo- 
tion, thanked  the  commodore  for  his  address.  The 
commodore  may  win  laurels  on  the  deck,  but  none 
that  can  bloom  more  lastingly  than  these.  If  there 
be  consolations  in  death,  they  flow  from  efforts  made 
and  triumphs  won  in  the  cause  of  humanity  and  God. 

Monday,  June  22.  The  forcible  introduction  of 
the  Roman  Catholic  faith  into  these  islands  was  art- 
fully disguised  under  the  plea  of  religious  toleration. 
The  manifesto  of  La  Place,  acting  under  the  author- 
ity  of  the  French  cabinet,  sets  forth,  that,  "  Among 
civilized  nations  there  is  not  one  which  does  not  per- 
mit in  its  territory  the  free  toleration  of  all  religions:" 
therefore  he  demands,  under  the  batteries  of  his  fri- 
gate, that  the  Roman  Catholic  faith  shall  have  ample 
scope  and  verge  here. 

The  basis  of  this  demand  is  an  assumption,  con- 
tradicted by  the  most  glaring  facts.  In  countries  no 
further  removed  than  Chili  and  Peru,  the  organic 
laws  of  the  land  declare  that  "  no  religion  except  the 
Roman  Catholic  shall  be  tolerated  ;"  and  these  laws 
are  enforced.  So  much  for  universal  toleration,  in 
those  countries  where  that  religion  is  predominant, 
which  La  Place  comes  here,  under  the  sanction  of 
his  government,  to  shoot  down  into  the  consciences 
of  this  people.     A  very  expeditious  mode  this  of  ma- 


( 


360  DECK  AND  PORT. 


king  converts,  and  quite  consonant  with  the  theolo- 
gical tactics  of  a  military  propagandist.  If  you 
cannot  reason  your  religion  into  a  man,  why,  shoot 
it  into  him.  You  may,  it  is  true,  in  doing  this  shoot 
his  life  out;  but  what  of  that,  if  you  shoot  your  creed 
in.  A  dead  man  with  your  creed  in  him,  is  perhaps 
better  than  a  living  one  without  it. 

This  demand  of  La  Place  was  accompanied  by  an- 
other, which  would  disparage  the  most  petty  prince 
in  Christendom.  It  required  the  Hawaiian  king  to 
place  on  board  the  French  frigate  twenty  thousand 
dollars,  as  a  guarantee  that  Roman  Catholic  priests 
shall  in  future  be  undisturbed  in  propagating  their 
faith.  These  priests,  it  was  well  known,  were  Jes- 
uits, belonging  to  an  order  which  France  herself 
was  at  the  time  endeavoring  to  suppress.  Perhaps 
she  intended  the  Sandwich  Islands  as  a  sort  of  Bot- 
any Bay  for  these  men,  whom  state  policy  had  pro- 
scribed from  her  own  soil.  They  had  given  the 
French  monarch  trouble  enough,  and  it  was  time  his 
Hawaiian  majesty  should  take  his  turn. 

Another  demand,  forced  under  the  disguise  of  a 
treaty,  was  that  French  brandies  should  be  admitted 
into  all  the  Hawaiian  ports,  with  only  a  duty  of  five 
cents  on  the  gallon.  It  seemed  to  be  thought  that 
this  liquor,  among  all  its  other  wonderful  achieve- 
ments, would  promote  Christian  charity,  and  open 
the  way  for  the  Jesuits  among  the  natives.     Brandy 


SKETCHES  OF  HONOLULU.  3G1 

is  good  in  cases  of  colic,  but  I  never  before  heard  of 
it  as  a  specific  against  the  evils  of  religious  intoler- 
ance. But  the  French  are  a  very  sagacious  people  ; 
and  if  they  have  found  in  it  an  antidote  to  bigotry, 
they  ought  not  to  be  deprived  of  the  honor  and  ad 
vantage  of  the  discovery. 

All  these  demands  of  the  French  government  were 
compulsorily  complied  with  under  the  batteries  of  an 
armed  ship.  The  king  had  no  alternative  ;  he  must 
either  submit,  or  suffer  Honolulu  to  be  levelled  with 
the  ground,  and  its  helpless  inhabitants  driven  into 
the  mountains.  On  the  one  hand  lay  rapine  and 
massacre  ;  on  the  other,  Jesuits  and  brandy.  Of  the 
two  evils,  the  king  submitted  to  the  latter.  Mahom- 
et propagated  his  religion  with  the  sword  ;  but  he 
did  not  force  on  those  whom  he  subjugated  the  ele- 
ments of  intoxication.  It  was  reserved  for  the 
French,  it  seems,  to  discover  this  new  ally,  and  give 
to  shame  its  last  blush. 

The  American  missionaries  were  arraigned,  and 
denounced  by  the  French,  on  the  charge  of  having 
stimulated  the  king  and  regent  of  the  Hawaiian  isl- 
ands to  measures  of  hostility  against  the  introduction 
of  the  Roman  Catholic  faith.  This  accusation  la 
met  and  annihilated  by  the  well-known  fact,  that 
they  who  came  here  to  preach  that  faith  were  sup 

plied    by    these    very   missionaries    with    the   1 ks 

thiough  which  they  obtained  h  knowledge  of  the  na- 

31 


362  DECK   AND  PORT. 


tive  language.  Fanatics,  filled  with  intolerance, 
never  supply  their  opponents  with  the  means  of  pro- 
pagating their  faith.  They  may  surround  them  with 
fagots,  but  never  with  books. 

The  truth  is,  the  king  and  regent  apprehended  that 
the  introduction  of  a  new  religion  might  produce  dis- 
sensions among  their  people.  They  could  not  com- 
prehend why  a  Protestant  should  not  be  permitted  to 
marry  a  Roman  Catholic,  and  very  naturally  dreaded 
the  introduction  of  a  system  which  set  up  such  ex- 
clusive pretensions.  Their  untutored  sagacity  dis- 
covered the  discord  which  this  marriage  prohibition 
must  of  itself  create.  Before  Roman  propagandists 
raise  the  cry  of  proscription,  let  them  accommodate 
their  antiquated  faith  to  the  more  liberal  and  enlight- 
ened spirit  of  the  age.  Let  them  lift  the  ban  from 
the  sacred  rights  of  marriage,  and  admit  the  possi- 
bility of  a  Protestant's  getting  into  heaven,  or  at 
least  of  throwing  his  shadow  in  ;  that  will  save  the 
Swedenborgians  ! 

But  the  king  and  regent  were  also  apprehensive 
that  the  images  used  in  the  forms  of  the  Romish  wor- 
ship might  lead  their  people  back  again  into  idolatry. 
They  could  not  see  clearly  any  difference  between 
praying  to  an  image,  or  praying  to  a  spirit  through 
that  image.  They  could  not  detach  the  substance 
from  its  seeming  shadow,  and  worship  the  latter 
without  an  obtrusion  of  the  former.     My  venerable 


SKETCHES  OF  HONOLULU.  3G3 

friend,  the  bishop  of  New  York,  with  his  metaphysh- 
cal  acuteness,  can  undoubtedly  accomplish  this  ;  bat 
a  poor  kanacka  here  would  be  very  apt  to  commit  a 

blunder  ;  and  this,  too, 

In  that  dread  creed,  in  which  a  truth  ami  blunder 
Are  deemed  as  wide  as  heaven  and  hell  asunder. 

The  crowning  act  of  shame  perpetrated  here  by 
La  Place,  was  in  his  communication  to  the  American 
consul,  in  which  he  informs  that  functionary,  that  in 
the  havoc  which  will  follow  a  non-compliance  with 
his  demands  by  the  government,  the  missionaries, 
with  their  families,  will  not  escape.  They  are  sin- 
gled out  as  objects  of  special  vengeance.  Their 
houses  are  delivered  over  to  rapine,  their  wives  and 
daughters  to  pollution.  This  communication  our 
consul  should  have  returned  indignantly  to  its  brutal 
author,  and  our  government  should  have  visited  the 
insult  which  it  conveyed  with  the  rebuke  and  chas- 
tisement which  it  merited.  If  we  would  have  our 
consular  flag  respected,  we  must  not  allow  its  sanc- 
tity to  be  trampled  upon  by  every  insolent  bravado 
of  the  sea. 

La  Place,  having  achieved  these  triumphs,  having 
bullied  an  unarmed  government,  menace. I  with  mas- 
sacre a  helpless  people,  intimidated  the  wives  and 
children  of  the  missionaries,  forced  00  :i  reluctant 
community  his  Jesuits  and   brandy,  and    filched   all 


364  DECK  AND  PORT. 


the  small  change  in  circulation,  took  his  departure, 
much  to  the  relief  of  all  good  men,  and  to  the  great 
disappointment,  no  doubt,  of  the  devil,  who  had  fur- 
ther work  for  him. 

The  officers  of  the  American  squadron,  under  the 
command  of  Commodore  Reed,  who  arrived  here  a 
short  time  after  the  departure  of  La  Place,  issued  a 
circular,  from  which  the  following  is  an  extract : — 

"  Being  most  decidedly  of  opinion  that  the  persons 
composing  the  Protestant  mission  of  these  islands  are 
American  citizens,  and,  as  such,  entitled  to  the  pro- 
tection which  our  government  has  never  withheld  ; 
and  with  unwavering  confidence  in  the  justice  which 
has  ever  characterized  it,  we  rest  assured  that  any 
insult  offered  to  this  unoffending  class,  will  be  prompt- 
ly redressed." 

This  circular,  which  honors  the  intelligence  and 
moral  justice  in  which  it  had  its  source,  is  signed  by 
Commodore  George  A.  Magruder ;  Lieutenants  An- 
drew H.  Foot,  John  W.  Livingston,  Thomas  Turner, 
James  S.  Palmer,  Edward  R.  Thompson,  Augustus 
H.  Kelly,  George  B.  Minor  ;  Surgeons  John  Hazlett, 
John  A.  Lockwood,  Joseph  Beale  ;  Purser  Danger- 
field  Fauntleroy  ;  Chaplain,  Fitch  W.  Taylor ;  Pro- 
fessors of  Mathematics,  J.  Henshaw  Belcher,  Alex- 
ander G.  Pendleton, 

Captain  La  Place  having  succeeded  so  brilliantly 
with  his  powder-and-shot  diplomacy,  Lord  George 


SKETCHES  OF  HONOLULU.  .'?»■».") 

Paulet,  the  commander  of  her  Britannic  majesty*! 
ship  Carysfort,  thought  he  would  try  his  hand  a(  tin- 
business.  He  arrived  here  a  short  time  after  his 
illustrious  predecessor;  but,  having  no  Jesuits  and 
brandy  to  introduce,  it  became  necessary  to  find 
something  else  aa  a  basis  of  action. 

In  this  emergency,  he  drummed  up  a  set  of  claims 
on  the  government,  to  which  he  deemed  its  resource! 
unequal,  and  demanded  for  them  immediate  satisfac 
tion.  To  his  utter  surprise,  these  claims  were  n 
nised:  he  had  now  no  alternative  but  to  bring  in  a 
new  set,  of  such  a  magnitude  as  to  render  all  adjust- 
ment impracticable.  The  government  remonstrated 
against  the  injustice  of  the  proceeding;  but  it  was  "t* 
no  avail :  payment  must  be  made  instanter,  Of  the 
sovereignty  of  the  islands  surrendered.  Lord  George 
accordingly  hauled  down  the  Hawaiian  flag,  and  run 
up  that  of  her  Britannic  majesty.  The  little  ships 
belonging  to  the  government  were  all  re-christened  : 
one  taking  the  name  of  Victoria  ;  another  the  Ade- 
laide ;  and  even  the  old  fort  was  honored  with  a 
Georgian  title. 

Dispatches  were  immediately  sent  by  Lord  George 
to  the  British  ministry,  informing  them  of  the  acqui- 
sition of  all  the  Hawaiian  islands  to  her  Majesty's 
dominions.  Bui  in  the  mean  time,  Admiral  Thomas, 
the  senior  officer  of  the  English  fleet  in  this  Bea,  ar- 
rived here,  in  the  Dublin,  from  Valparaiso.     11<-  re- 


366  DECK  AND  PORT. 


quested  an  interview  with  the  king :  the  real  diffi- 
culties were  at  once  amicably  adjusted  ;  the  fictitious 
ones,  which  were  the  basis  of  Lord  George's  pro- 
ceeding, were  thrown  by  the  Admiral  to  the  wind, 
and  the  sovereignty  of  the  islands  restored.  This 
was  rather  an  imposing  ceremony.  The  king  and 
his  chiefs  appeared  on  the  plain,  east  of  the  town, 
where  fifteen  or  twenty  thousand  of  the  inhabitants 
had  assembled.  Admiral  Thomas  entered  the  grounds 
under  a  brilliant  escort  of  marines  from  his  squadron. 
The  standard  of  the  king  was  now  unfurled,  and  his 
flag  run  up  on  the  two  forts.  They  were  saluted  by 
the  guns  of  the  Dublin  and  Carysfort,  and  Kameha- 
meha  III.  was  again  on  the  throne  of  his  ancestors. 

Thus  ended  the  brilliant  conquest  of  Lord  George, 
and  thus  vanished  his  dream  of  empire,  when  touched 
by  the  wand  of  moral  rectitude.  He  was  not  only 
compelled  to  see  the  Hawaiian  flag  restored,  but  to 
salute  it  from  his  own  ship,  and  with  those  very  guns 
with  which  he  had  demanded  its  surrender  under  a 
'threat  that  Honolulu  should  be  blown  sky-high. 
Verily,  as  the  proverb  hath  it,  "  he  that  governs  his 
own  spirit,  is  greater  than  he  that  taketh  a  city." 
The  conduct  of  Admiral  Thomas  was  sustained  by 
the  British  ministry,  and  Lord  George  went  to  the 
wall. 


3G7 


CHAPTER  XIII. 
PASSAGE  FROM  HONOLULU  TO  MOHTEREY. 

THE  MORAL  THAUOS. — TIIK  Mormon  SHIP. — BIBLE  CLASS. — Till;  SLA  HEN. — 

OUR  QfBAKC  SAILOR. FOURTH  OK  Jl  LV. I'liol  AM  NK88  Al  -IV l.\  1  mm; 

PRATXa-KXETDfO. — KCNCRAL. — TARGET    FIRING. —  Rl.l.H.I.  II  s    008DITJOH 
OK  Till;  CREW.— ANCHOR   l.MILR    IfOlfTKREY 

"Tlie  searblrd  wheels  above  the  maat, 
And  the  waters  By  below, 
Aiul  Hi''  roaming  billows  Bashing  fust 
An-  leaping  up  the  i  row." 

Tuesday,  June  23.  We  weighed  anchor  at  day- 
light this  morning,  and  stood  out  from  the  open  bay 
of  Honolulu.  The  breeze  was  fresh,  and  in  a  few- 
hours  Oahu  presented  only  its  volcanic  peaks  above 
the  swell  of  the  ocean.  We  cast  a  parting  glance 
to  those  cliffs  from  which  we  had  gazed  in  delighted 
wonder,  and  felt  a  sentiment  allied  to  bereavement, 
as  they  faded  on  our  vision. 

The  volcanoes  which  threw  up  these  mountain- 
masses  have  long  since  rested  from  their  labors ;  the 
flames  which  lit  the  sayage  grandeur  of  their  craters 
an-  extinct;  dim  ages  have  swept  over  them,  and 
only  the  bleak  monuments  of  their  terrific  energy 
remain;  but  Christian  philanthropy,  without  pomp 
and  parade,  and  iu  the  silence  of  that  love  winch 


368  DECK   AND  PORT. 


seeks  only  to  solace  and  save,  has  here  kindled  a 
light  that  shall  never  wane.  Centuries  may  come 
and  go,  and  night  rest  upon  other  isles  of  the  wide 
sea,  but  this  light  will  still  stream  on  in  undying 
splendor.  Beneath  its  beams  generations  will  here 
go  untremblingly  down  to  the  unbreathing  sepulchre, 
and  as  this  world  darkens  on  their  vision,  discern 
those  objects  of  faith  which  loom  to  light  in  the  spirit- 
land.  With  the  good,  a  shadow  only  falls  between 
this  world  and  the  next. 

Wednesday,  June  24.  We  have  been  for  the  last 
twenty-four  hours  on  our  starboard  tack,  with  the 
wind  from  the  northeast.  The  jagged  steeps  of  Ka- 
nie  sunk  this  morning  in  the  sea  over  our  larboard 
quarter.  We  are  again  upon  the  wide  ocean  with- 
out an  object  on  which  the  eye  can  rest.  Our  frigate 
has  a  heavy  roll ;  she  has  in  her  six  months'  provi- 
sions, and  lies  too  deep  for  the  greatest  speed.  The 
heat  is  oppressive,  but  has  been  relieved  by  several 
refreshing  showers.  Our  men  jumped  around  in 
them  like  wild  ducks  in  the  foam  of  the  cascade. 

The  ward-room  of  the  Congress  presents  an  or- 
derly, well-regulated  table.  It  has  been  so  from  the 
commencement  of  our  cruise.  Grace  is  said  at  our 
meals ;  not  a  glass  of  spirits  has  entered  our  mess ; 
not  a  word  of  discord,  petulance,  or  anger,  has  been 
heard.     The  officers  are  within  the  circle  of  that  re 


PASSAGE  FROM  HONOLULU  TO  MONTEREY.    3G0 

ligious  sentiment  which  more  or  less  pervades  the 
crew.  It  is  religion  alone  that  can  bind  passion,  har- 
monize the  elements  of  society,  and  render  the  obli- 
gations of  mutual  forbearance  and  love  the  abiding 
rules  of  action. 

Thursday,  June  25.  We  left  at  Honolulu  the 
American  ship  Brooklyn,  with  one  hundred  and  sev- 
enty-five Mormon  emigrants  on  board,  bound  to 
Monterey  and  San  Francisco,  where  they  propose  to 
settle.  They  look  to  us  for  protection,  and  ex]>ect 
to  land,  if  necessary,  under  our  batteries.  I  spent 
the  greater  part  of  a  day  among  them,  and  must  say, 
I  was  much  pleased  with  their  deportment.  The 
greater  portion  of  them  are  young,  and  have  been 
trained  to  habits  of  industry,  frugality,  and  enter- 
prise. Some  have  been  recently  married,  and  are 
accompanied  by  their  parents.  They  are  mostly 
from  the  Methodist  and  Baptist  persuasions.  Their 
Mormonism,  so  far  as  they  have  any.  lias  been  super- 
induced on  their  previous  faith,  as  Millerism  on  the 
belief  of  some  Christians.  They  are  rigidly  strict  in 
their  domestic  morals  ;  have  their  morning  and  even- 
ing pi  avers;  and  the  wind  and  the  weather  have 
never  suspended,  during  their  long  voyage,  their  ex- 
ercises of  devotion. 

Friday,  June  36.     We  have  had  since  we  left  port 


370  DECK  AND  PORT. 


a  head  wind  ;  but  we  are  constantly  working  our 
way  north  through  the  trades  into  the  variables;  a 
few  weeks  since  we  were  very  anxious  to  get  out  of 
the  variables,  we  are  now  equally  anxious  to  get  into 
them.  But  we  were  then  sailing  northwest ;  our 
course  now  lies  northeast :  such  is  the  occupation  of 
the  sailor.  He  is  forever  crossing  and  retracing  his 
own  track,  and  well  would  it  be  for  him  if  this  cross- 
ing and  retracing  were  confined  to  his  track  on  the 
deep,  but  unhappily  it  enters  into  the  pathway  of  his 
moral  being.  He  plods  back  in  penitence  and  re- 
morse the  space  over  which  folly  and  passion  blindly 
whirled  him.  "Facilis  descensus  averni,  sed  revocare 
hie  labor,  hoc  opus  est." 

Saturday,  June  27.  We  have  at  last  a  slant  of 
wind  which  has  put  us  on  our  coui'se.  The  Mormon 
ship  must  make  haste  if  she  expects  to  overtake  us 
before  we  reach  Monterey.  It  is  a  little  singular 
that  with  a  company  of  one  hundred  and  seventy 
emigrants,  confined  in  a  vessel  of  only  four  hundred 
tons,  depending  on  each  other's  activity  and  forbear- 
ence  for  comfort,  unbroken  harmony  should  have 
prevailed.  They  may  have  had  their  momentary 
jars,  but  I  was  assured  by  the  captain,  who  is  not  of 
their  persuasion,  that  no  serious  discord  had  occurred. 
They  put  their  money  into  a  joint  stock,  laid  in  their 
own  provisions,  and  have  every  thing  in  common. 


PASSAGE  FROM  HONOLULU  TO  MONTEREY.    371 

They   chartered    their  vessel,    for    which    they   pay 
twelve  hundred  dollars  per  month.     It  will  cost  them 
for  their  passage  alone  some  ten  thousand  dollars  be 
fore  they  disembark  in  California. 

Sunday,  Junk  28.  We  had  divine  service  at  Uie 
usual  hour.  The  subject  of  the  sermon  was  the 
aversion  of  the  world  to  the  meekness,  humility, 
and  forbearance  which  enter  into  the  Christian  char- 
acter. Men  of  the  world  are  too  apt  t<>  consider  these 
qualities  incompatible  with  courage,  resolution,  firm- 
ness, and  self-respect.  But  the  most  heroic  virtues 
have  been  displayed  in  dungeons,  on  the  rack,  and  at 
the  stake,  by  martyrs  to  truth.  He  who  suffered  on 
the  cross,  triumphed  over  not  only  the  malice  of  his 
foes,  but  the  terrors  of  death.  After  service  I  met 
my  Bible  class,  ami  spent  an  hour  with  them.  Among 
ih. -in  are  some  of  the  firsl  seamen  in  the  ship  ;  men 
whose  influence  extend  through  the  whole  crew  ; 
several  of  these,  there  is  reason  to  believe,  have  ex- 
perienced religion  since  we  started  on  the  present 
cruise.  God  grant  they  may  persevere  with  unshaken 
firmness. 

I  applied  to-day  to  Captain  Du  Ponl  and  Mr. 
Livingston  for  the  apartment  leading  to  the  store- 
room,  in  which  to  hold  onr  evening  prayer-meeting. 

It  was  granted  without  any  hesitation.      This  prayer- 
meetiie_r  commenced  with    three  or  four   individuals- 


372  DECK  AND  PORT. 


it  now  embraces  some  fifteen  or  twenty,  and  it  will 
not  stop  here. 

Monday,  June  29.  We  have  been  in  a  dead  calm 
all  day, — the  ocean  slumbering  about  us  without  a 
ripple,  and  our  dog-vane  not  lifting  a  feather.  The 
lazy  clouds  piled  themselves  up  in  pyramids  and 
castles  on  the  sea,  without  a  wave  or  breath  to 
disturb  their  fantastic  forms.  The  rays  of  the  sun 
were  quenched  in  their  veils,  and  twilight  spread 
over  their  summits  her  rosy  charm.  As  night  in  her 
sable  hues  advanced,  the  moon  came  up  and  poured 
on  turret  and  tower  her  tender  light.  Man  rears 
his  structures  amid  weariness  and  tumult ;  nature 
erects  hers  in  silence.  When  the  monuments  of 
man  decay,  ages  may  sigh  over  their  unreviving 
relics,  but  when  those  of  nature  are  dissolved,  others 
emerge  from  the  ruin  in  more  exulting  beauty,  as 
the  bird  of  flame  from  the  ashes  of  its  parent. 

Tuesday,  June  30.  When  an  aquatic  fowl  ap- 
pears for  which  the  sailor  has  no  other  name,  he  al- 
ways calls  it  a  sea-hen.  Several  of  this  brood  have 
been  about  our  ship  to-day,  circling  through  the  air, 
and  resting  on  the  sleeping  sea.  The  head  is  large, 
the  neck  strong,  the  wings  long  and  arching,  and  the 
plumage  dark  brown.  We  tried  to  hook  Mie  of  them 
with  a  tempting  bait,  but  the  fellow  was  \  ;<o  cunning. 


PASSAGE  FROM  HONOLULU  TO  MONTEREY.    H7.1 

The  only  purpose  they  seemingly  serve  is  to  relieve 
the  monotony  of  a  sea-life. 

We  have  been  lying  now  for  two  days  in  the  same 
waveless  berth  ;  our  motion  has  not  been  sufficient 
to  straighten  our  log-line.  Every  cloud  is  watched, 
but  it  brings  no  breeze.  It  departs  like  the  airy  vis- 
ions of  childhood,  and  none  knoweth  the  place  of  its 
rest.  We  are  born  in  shadows;  live  in  their  aerial 
folds,  and  vanish  at  last  into  deep  night.  But  the 
spark  of  the  Divinity  that  glows  within  is  quenchless 
evermore. 

Wednesday,  July  1.  We  caught  to-day,  with  a 
hook,  one  of  the  sailor's  sea-hens.  It  proved  to  be 
the  brown  albatros  of  the  Pacific  ;  and  measured  ten 
feet  between  the  tips  of  its  wings.  When  brought 
on  board,  the  fellow  threw  his  wild  glances  at  the 
crew,  and  walked  about  as  haughtily  as  if  sole  mon- 
arch of  the  peopled  deck.    One  of  the  men  attempted 

to  trifle  with  his  dignity,  when  he  pounced  upon  him 
and  severely  chastised  his  impertinence.  After  be- 
ing detained  an  hour,  we  let  him  go  to  join  hi^  fe- 
male companion,  who  was  waiting  for  him,  on  tin- 
wave,  by  the  side  of  the  ship.  The  albatros  never 
deserts  its  consort  in  calamity. 

The  love  which  coldly  wounds  and  kills, 

Is  that  which  cam  ami  IOROW  I  hills. 

82 


374  DECK  AND  PORT. 


Thursday,  July  2.  Our  sailor,  Lewis,  who  is 
touched  with  insanity,  is  again  on  deck.  He  moves 
around  among  the  crew,  but  never  participates  in 
their  amusements,  or  enters  into  conversation  with 
any  one.  If  questioned,  his  answers  are  so  stern  and 
brief  they  quell  curiosity.  He  handles  a  rope  as  if 
there  were  a  scorpion's  fang  in  every  strand.  Only 
snatches  of  his  history  are  known.  He  has  borne 
arms  ;  his  last  exploits  were  at  San  Jacinto.  He 
has  the  air  of  one  in  whom  the  feelings  of  a  better 
nature  have  been  turned  to  apathy  and  scorn. 

"  His  features'  deepening  lines  and  varying  hue 
At  times  attract,  and  yet  perplex  the  view 
As  if  within  that  murkiness  of  mind 
Worked  feeling,  fearful  and  yet  undefined. 
He  has  the  skill,  when  cunning's  gaze  would  seek 
To  probe  his  heart  and  watch  his  changing  cheek, 
At  once  the  observer's  purpose  to  espy, 
And  on  himself  roll  back  his  scrutiny." 
I 

Friday,  July  3.  We  have  at  last  a  breeze  from 
the  northwest,  which  is  leading  us  out  of  this  region 
of  calms.  Our  latitude  is  35°  n.  Our  thermometer 
ranges  at  seventy, — rather  a  cool  temperature,  con- 
sidering that  we  are  so  near  the  vertical  rays  of  a 
cloudless  sun,  wheeling  around  his  northern  bourne 
in  his  career  of  flame  to  the  Line.  But  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  Pacific  never  undergoes  those  extreme 
changes  to  which  that  of  the   same  latitude  in  the 


PASSAGE  FROM  HONOLULU  TO  MONTEREY.    375 

Atlantic  is  subjected.     The  cause  of  tins  difference 
is  probably  found  in  the  relative  disproportion  oi 
and  land  over  which  the  tides  of  the  atmosphere 
in  the  two  oceans. 

Three  seamen  came  into  my  state-room  to-day  to 
converse  with  me  on  the  subject  of  religion.  They 
stated  that  for  several  weeks  their  attention  had  been 
drawn  to  this  subject,  and  that  they  had  now  re- 
solved to  renounce  every  sin.  and  seek  an  interest  in 
Christ.  I  encouraged  them  in  this  good  resolution, 
gave  them  books  suited  to  their  frame  of  mind,  and 
invited  them  to  our  evening  prayer-meeting.  These 
are  the  bows  of  promise  which  span  the  dark  tides  of 
ocean. 

Saturday,  July  4.  This  is  the  anniversary  of 
our  national  independence.     The  crew  have   been 

permitted  to  spend  it  as  they  pleased  :  no  duty  being 
required   of  them    beyond  what    is   essential   to  keep 

the  ship  on  her  course.     Some  collected  themselves 

in  groups,  mid  spun  patriotic  yams  about  naval  ac- 
tions in  the  last  war;  some  SUUg  the  Btar-spangled 
banner;  some  waxed  eloquent  at  the   idea   "f  a  war 

with  .Mexico,  and  some  sat  quietly  mending  their  old 
clothes.     The   young  were  generally  the  most  eager 

for  hostilities,  and  seemed  to  think  they  could  hew 
their  way  with  a  cutlass  and  a  pound  <>1  pork  to  the 
halls  of  the   Moiite/.uinas. 


376  DECK  AND  PORT. 


Commodore  Stockton  gave  an  elegant  dinner  to 
his  officers.  Many  sentiments,  kindled  by  the  exam- 
ples of  the  glorious  past,  went  round ;  and  many 
thoughts  of  home  and  hearts  left  behind,  melted  in 
an  under-tone  through  the  festivities.  How  venera- 
tion, gratitude,  and  pride,  will  grow  in  the  breast  of 
an  American,  in  a  distant  clime,  over  the  memory  of 
those  who  perilled  their  all  in  the  Revolution  !  They 
rest  in  immortal  remembrance  amid  the  flowers  and 
fragrant  airs  of  earth : 

"  By  fairy  hands  their  knell  is  rung, 
By  forms  unseen  their  dirge  is  sung." 

Sunday,  July  5.  Though  the  morning  has  been 
overcast  with  flying  clouds,  from  which  dashes  of 
rain  have  fallen,  accompanied  with  sudden  gusts  of 
wind,  giving  every  thing  the  air  of  discomfort,  and 
rendering  the  ship  rather  uneasy,  yet  we  have  had 
our  regular  service.  The  subject  of  the  discourse 
was,  Profaneness — its  degrading  effects,  its  prohibition 
in  the  rules  of  the  service,  its  violation  of  the  laws 
of  God. 

This  is  the  besetting  sin  of  those  who  follow  the 
seas, — of  those  who,  in  their  helplessness,  are  sur- 
rounded by  the  most  stupendous  displays  of  omnipo- 
tent power.  Yet  let  the  ship  in  which  it  prevails 
most,  be  swept  in  a  gale  of  shroud  and  mast,  be  dri- 
ving amid  breakers  against  the  steep  rock,  her  guilty 


PASSAGE  FROM  HONOLULU  TO  MONTEREY.    377 
_ * 

crew  will  fall  on  their  knees  in  prayer,  and  call  on 
Him  whose  name  they  have  profaned,  whose  woe- 
ship  they  have  derided,  to  have  mercy  and  save. 

Our  prayer-meeting  has  increased,  so  that  the  small 
apartment  in  which  we  have  been  assembling  will 
not  accommodate  us.  Capt.  Du  Pont,  on  the  sug- 
gestion of  Mr.  Livingston,  has  given  us  the  use  of 
the  store-room.  It  has  been  so  arranged  that  there 
is  no  interference  with  the  public  stores,  and  no  in- 
crease of  hazard  from  additional  lights.  It  would 
have  been  easy  for  them  to  have  suggested  difficul- 
ties ;  but,  thank  God,  they  are  not  so  inclined.  They 
have  extended  to  me  every  facility  and  every  encour- 
agement in  their  power.  Nor  has  any  officer  on 
board  the  ship  cast  an  impediment  in  my  way.  \ot 
a  derisive  remark  from  any  one,  either  in  or  out  of 
the  ward-room,  has  fallen  on  my  ear. 

Monday,  July  0.  When  we  were  receiving  OUT 
crew  at  Norfolk,  an  old  seaman,  by  the  name  of  Bar- 
nard, applied  to  Capt.  Du  Pont  to  be  shipped.  He 
was  told  that  he  had  not  vigor  for  the  hardships  of 
another  cruise,  and  kindly  advised  to  make  the  Na- 
val Asylum  his  home.  But  he  plead  the  forty  years 
of  service  which  he  had  performed  in  our  national 
ships  so  earnestly,  that  he  was  permitted  to  conic  on 

board.  Though  over  sixty  years  of  age,  he  has  dis- 
charged the  duties  of  quarter-master  very  well.     Bui 


378  DECK  AND  PORT. 


recently  the  springs  of  life  have  been  giving  way,  till 
at  last  he  has  been  obliged  to  relinquish  his  post  at 
the  wheel.  He  could  not  rally  again,  and  has  sunk 
to  his  last  repose. 

To-day  we  have  consigned  his  remains  to  the 
deep.  The  body,  wrapped  in  his  hammock,  was 
borne  by  his  messmates  up  the  main-hatch,  along  the 
line  of  the  marine  guard  presenting  arms,  where  it 
was  met  by  the  Commodore  and  Captain.  As  the 
band  ceased  its  funeral  air,  the  burial  service  was 
read,  the  plank  on  which  the  body  lay  was  lifted,  and 
Barnard  glided  down  to  his  deep  rest.  Over  him 
roll  the  waters  of  the  Pacific. 

But  when  the  last  great  trump  shall  thrill  the  grave, 
And  earth's  unnumbered  myriads  reappear, 

He  too  shall  hear  the  summons  'neath  the  •wave, 
That  now  in  silence  wraps  his  sunless  bier. 

And  coming  forth,  in  trembling  reverence  bowed, 

Unfold  the  tongueless  secrets  of  his  shroud. 

Tuesday,  July  7.  We  have  sailed  since  we  left 
Callao  about  eight  thousand  miles  without  falling  in 
with  a  single  vessel,  though  the  Pacific  is  said  to  be 
sprinkled  with  whalers  and  merchantmen.  The 
former  pursue  their  vocation  without  any  reference 
to  the  customary  tracks  of  other  vessels  ;  they  set 
up  their  chase  wherever  the  whale  sweeps,  be  it  to 
the  Pole  or  the  Line,  and  yet  we  have  not  encoun- 


PASSAGE  FROM  HONOLULU  TO  MONTEREY.    379 

— — «■  ■        .      , 

tered  one  of  them.  Out  of  the  thousand,  not  one  has 
come  within  the  range  of  our  vision.  This  gives  one 
some  idea  of  the  immensity  of  the  1'acific.  A  shi]>  in 
it  is  like  a  meteor  in  the  unconfined  realms  of  space 

Wednesday,  July  8.  We  have  had  general 
quarters,  with  the  exercise  of  the  crew  at  the  guns, 
almost  every  day  since  we  left  Honolulu.  Mexican 
papers  were  received  there,  the  day  before  our  de- 
parture, stating  that  hostilities  had  commenced  be- 
tween that  country  and  the  United  States,  on  the 
Texan  line.  We  doubted  the  correctness  of  the 
information,  but  put  to  sea  at  once,  that  we  might 
be  off  Monterey  in  season  for  any  service  which  the 
possible  exigency  might  require. 

To-day  we  have  been  practising  at  target  firin_r- 
This  fictitious  foe  made  his  appearance  on  B  platform 
buoyed  up  by  eight  empty  casks  at  a  distance,  vary- 
ing with  the  action  of  the  sea  and  wind,  of  from  one 
to  two  miles.  The  firing  commenced  on  the  larboard 
side,  and  was  restricted  to  one  round  from  each  gun. 
It  was  found  that  the  shot,  though  the  guns  had  been 
elevated  one  degree,  struck  the  water  short  of  the 
mark.     An  order  was  therefore  given  to  elevate  the 

guns  two  degrees,  and  to  be  careful  tO  fire  OH  an 
even  keel.  This  brought  the  target  within  a  point- 
blank  range  ;  and  the  shot  whistled  past  it,  grazing 
this  side  and  that. 


380  DECK  AND  PORT. 


We  now  tacked  ship,  and  gave  the  starboard  lads 
a  chance.  Their  shot  struck  with  sufficient  accuracy 
for  all  practical  purposes  in  a  naval  engagement,  and 
the  target,  though  bobbing  up  and  down  on  the  sea 
as  a  frightened  thing  of  life,  very  narrowly  escaped. 
The  whistling,  whizzing  sound  made  by  a  huge  ball 
in  its  passage  through  the  air,  is  like  nothing  else 
that  I  have  ever  heard.  It  seems  to  carry  in  its  very 
tone  an  import  of  the  destructive  errand  upon  which 
it  is  sent.  This  ominous  voice,  however,  in  the  ex- 
citement and  thunders  of  an  engagement,  is  never 
heard.  The  warning  and  the  havoc  come  together, 
twins  in  life  and  death ! 

Thursday,  July  9.  We  have  made,  for  the  last  three 
days,  but  very  little  progress  towards  our  port.  The 
wind  has  been  extremely  light  and  baffling,  breathing 
and  dying  away  at  all  points  of  the  compass.  The  at- 
mosphere has  had  that  peculiar  property  which  mag- 
nifies every  object  of  vision.  The  moon  hung  on 
the  horizon  this  evening  with  a  breadth  of  circle 
which  attracted  the  attention  of  all  on  board ;  the 
stars  seemed  to  have  extended  their  glowing  verge, 
the  sea-bird  to  have  enlarged  its  dusky  form  as  it 
floated  dimly  in  the  pale  light,  while  the  wing  of 
the  cloud  threw  its  vast  shadow  on  the  sleeping  sur- 
face of  the  sea.     We  heard 


PASSAGE  FROM  HONOLULU  TO  MONTEREY.    381 

"  Not  a  sound,  save  the  surge  of  the  ship 
As  she  lazily  rolls  to  and  fro, 
And  the  sails  as  they  listlessly  flap, 
And  the  creak  of  the  rudder  below." 

Friday,  July  10.  We  have  had  to-day  a  light  but 
steady  breeze  on  our  starboard  quarter.  Our  stud- 
ding-sails have  been  set  for  the  first  time  since  we 
left  Honolulu.  We  are  now  within  nine  hundred 
miles  of  our  port.  All  are  engaged,  some  in  ship's 
duty,  some  in  acquiring  Spanish,  some  in  writing 
letters  home ;  while  the  crew,  as  they  come  oft* 
watch,  occupy  their  time  with  books  from  the  libra- 
ry. Sailors  will  read  if  you  furnish  them  with  books 
suited  to  their  tastes  and  habits.  Give  them  narra- 
tives, history,  biography,  and  incidents  of  travel.  In 
these  sketches  virtues  may  be  shadowed  forth  that 
will  win  reverence  and  love,  and  the  results  of  vice 
unfolded  with  repelling  power.  Hut  all  this  requires 
care  in  the  selection;  this  dofy  properly  devolves  on 
the  chaplain  ;  it  is  for  him  to  elevate  ami  mould  the 
moral  sentiments  of  those  around  him.  If  he  is  not 
equal  to  this,  he  should  not  put  his  foot  on  the  decks 
of  a  man-of-war. 

Saturday,  July  11.  Our  light  aft  wind  has  left 
us.  and  We  have  in  its  stead  a  heavy  sea,  rolling  in 
from  the  west.  There  must  have  been  a  tremendous 
blow  in  that  quarter.     Our  ship  rolled  last  nigh!   as 


382  DECK  AND  PORT. 


she  did  off  Cape  Horn.  Every  thing  in  the  ward- 
room and  steerage  which  had  not  been  secured, 
rushed  about  in  crashing  confusion.  The  candle- 
sticks leaped  from  the  sideboard,  a  tray  of  knives  and 
forks  followed,  while  a  water-tank  flew  from  one 
bulkhead  to  another,  as  if  determined  to  dash  in  its 
own  staves.  The  front  board  of  my  berth  had  been 
taken  out  to  admit  more  air,  and  I  had  no  sooner 
dropped  asleep,  than  out  I  rolled  on  the  floor  ;  and 
well  was  it  for  me  that  I  did,  for  I  was  no  sooner  out 
of  my  berth  than  my  library  tumbled  in.  What  sin- 
gular feelings,  half  vexatious  and  half  ludicrous,  one 
has  gathering  himself  up  from  such  a  tumble ' 

Sunday,  July  12.  The  weather  has  been  too 
stormy,  and  the  roll  of  the  ship  too  heavy,  for  reli- 
gious service  on  deck.  We  have  had  a  prayer- 
meeting  in  the  store-room.  The  attendance  was 
voluntary,  but  the  laj^e  apartment  was  filled.  A 
good  number  of  our  sailors  are  earnestly  seeking  re- 
ligion, and  several  hope  they  have  found  it.  I  meet 
them  every  evening  from  eight  to  nine  o'clock. 
They  speak  in  these  meetings  with  much  frankness 
of  their  previous  evil  courses,  and  of  their  resolution 
to  abandon  them  and  seek  Christ.  Those  who  have 
obtained  light  and  comfort,  encourage  others,  and 
pray  for  them  with  an  earnestness  which  shows  their 
heart  is  in  the  work.     Every  evening  some  two  or 


PASSAGE  FROM  HONOLULU  TO  MONTEREY.    383 

three  new  ones  join  us.     Among  them  are  some  of 
the  first  sailors  we  have. 

The  effect  of  this  on  the  discipline  of  the  ship  is  too 
marked  to  escape  observation.  There  is  no  disobe- 
dience and  no  punishment.  Each  performs  with 
alacrity  the  duties  of  his  station.  It  would  seem  as 
if  we  might  throw  every  instrument  of  correction  and 
coercion  overboard  ;  their  requirement,  for  the  pres- 
ent at  least,  has  ceased.  Give  me  the  religious  sen- 
timent in  a  crew,  and  you  may  sink  your  hand- 
cull's,  cats,  and  colts  in  the  depths  of  ocean.  They 
who,  under  the  hypocritical  cry  of  church  and  state, 
would  deprive  our  seamen  of  these  influences,  have 
steeled  their  hearts  to  the  first  instincts  of  humanity. 
Their  religion,  if  they  have  any,  is  cruel  as  the  grave. 

Monday,  July  13.  The  following  note,  which  I 
received  last  evening  from  one  of  our  quarter-gun- 
ners, a  stanch  sailor,  derives  its  interest  from  the 
fact  that  he  followed  it  up  with  an  attendance  at  our 
prayer-meeting. 

U.  S.  Frigate  Congress,  July  12,  1840. 
Dear  Sir  : — 

With  feelings  <»f  sincere  regret  fur  the  enfer  I  Diade  on 
the  night  of  the  inli,  by  using  profane  language  in  your 
hearing,  I  do  humbly  crave  pour  pardon,  and  I  <!"  a 
you,  had  1  kiiuwii  von  were  present  at  the  time,  such  lan- 
guage would  never  have  been  used  by  me.     I  am  aware  I 


384  DECK  AND  PORT. 


can  make  no  excuse  for  the  crime  of  swearing  :  it  is,  as  you 
have  truly  said,  the  force  of  habit,  which  should  have  been 
checked  by  me  years  ago.  No  man  inside  this  ship  is  more 
indebted  to  an  all-merciful  God  than  I  am,  for  I  have  been 
totally  shipwrecked  in  the  course  of  my  sea-life  four  differ- 
ent times,  and  been  preserved  when  some  of  my  shipmates 
met  a  watery  grave  ;  and  still  I  sin  greatly,  daily,  hourly, 
in  spite  of  all  my  resolutions  to  the  contrary. 

Yours  obediently. 

Tuesday,  July  14.  We  were  tumbled  out  of  our 
dead  calm  by  a  roaring  northwester,  and  have  been 
driven  by  it  two  hundred  and  thirty-five  miles  in  the 
last  twenty-four  hours.  We  have  six  months'  provi- 
sions, and  four  months'  water,  on  board,  and  have 
been  logging  eleven  and  twelve  knots.  A  ship  that 
can  do  this  under  these  circumstances,  and  close- 
hauled,  must  be  a  good  sailer.  We  are  now  within 
two  hundred  and  twenty  miles  of  our  port ;  and  if 
this  wind  continues,  shall  probably  anchor  under 
Monterey  to-morrow.  Whether  it  be  for  hostilities 
or  for  peace,  we  know  not ;  but  we  are  prepared  for 
either. 

Wednesday,  July  15,  The  wind  continued  very 
fresh  through  the  night.  Not  wishing  to  make  the 
land  till  daylight,  we  furled  our  top-gallant  sails, 
hauled  up  our  courses,  double-reefed  our  topsails,  and 


PASSAGE   FROM  HONOLULU  TO   MONTEREY.  385 

still  run  eight  knots.  As  day  dawned,  Point  Pinoa 
rose  fifteen  miles  directly  ahead  of  us.  Put  as  the 
first  rays  of  the  sun  tipped  its  forest-tops  with  flame, 
a  bank  of  fog  rolled  between.  Not  a  vestige  of  the 
coast  was  seen  for  hours ;  and  we  wore  ship,  and 
stood  out  to  sea. 

It  was  nearly  noon  before  the  fog  lifted.  We  then 
made  sail,  and  in  two  hours  rounded  Point  Pinos,  ami 
entered  the  harbor  of  Monterey.  We  discovered  at 
anchor  the  U.  S.  frigate  Savannah,  bearing  the  broad 
pennant  of  Commodore  Sloat ;  the  U.  S.  sloop-of- 
war  Cyane,  Captain  Merrill  ;  and  the  U.  S.  sloop-of- 
war  Levant,  Commander  Page.  We  run  up  the  red 
pennant,  and  saluted  the  blue  of  Commodore  Sl<»at 
with  thirteen  guns,  which  were  returned  by  the  Sa- 
vannah. As  we  rounded  under  her  stern  for  our 
berth,  her  band  struck  up  *  Hail  Columbia !"  We 
came  to  anchor,  in  graceful  style,  outside  the  Cyane. 

Here  will  we  rest,  and  let  the  win. Is  nive  oo 


33 


38G 


CHAPTER  XIV. 
"  GLANCES    INTO  CALIFORNIA. 

SAILORS  ON  SHORE  AS  SOLDIERS. THE    BEAR    FLAG. CAPT.  FREMONT   AND 

HIS  ARMED  BAND. — DEPARTURE  OF  ADMIRAL  SEYMOUR. SAN  FRANCISCO. — 

ASPECTS  OF  THE  TOWN. — HABITS  OF  THE  PEOFLK. THE  GOLD-DIGGER. — 

SPIRIT    OF  SPECULATION. — GAMBLING. EFFECTS  OF  THE    GOLD    MINES.— 

PAST  AND  PRESENT  CONDITION  OF  THE  COUNTRY. 

The  peak  where  bums  the  blush  of  morn, 

The  glen  in  which  a  torrent  rolled, 
The  crater  whore  the  Deil  was  bom, 

Are  hemmed  and  stratified  with  gold ; 
And  e'en  the  quartz,  which  bind  the  shore, 
Sweat  out  at  times  the  precious  ore. 

Thursday,  July  16.  The  Cyane  warped  out  ot 
her  berth  this  morning,  and  we  warped  into  it.  Our 
ships  are  now  moored  in  line,  command  the  anchor- 
age, and  present  a  very  warlike  appearance. 

This  afternoon  a  large  ship  was  discovered  round- 
ing Point  Pinos.  She  entered  the  harbor  under  a 
cloud  of  canvas,  and  proved  to  be  the  Collingwood, 
bearing  the  broad  pennant  of  Admiral  Seymour.  She 
came  to  anchor  outside  the  Congress  and  Savannah. 
Our  band  greeted  her  with  "  God  save  the  Queen," 
which  she  returned  with  "  Hail,  Columbia."  She  is 
an  80  gun  ship,  and  looks  majestic  on  the  wave. 
The  Admiral  was  greatly  surprised  to  find  Monterey 
in  possession  of  the  Americans. 

Commodore  Sloat,  having  received  information  at 


GLANCES  INTO  CALIFORNIA.  387 

Mazatlan,  through  the  public  press,  that  our  advanced 
posts  on  the  Rio  Grande  had  been  attacked  by  a 
Mexican  force,  sailed  immediately  for  this  port.  <  >n 
his  arrival  the  town  was  taken  without  any  conflict, 
the  flag  run  up  and  saluted  with  twenty-one  guni 
from  each  ship  of  the  squadron.  A  proclamation  was 
then  issued  by  the  commodore,  informing  the  Inhabit- 
ants of  the  bases  of  his  proceedings,  and  invoking 
quietude  as  the  condition  of  security  ami  re] 
while  our  own  men,  who  hud  been  stationed  on  shore, 
were  strictly  enjoined  not  to  molest  the  citizens  in 
their  lawful  occupations. 

Friday,  July  17.  The  hay  of  Monterey  circles 
up  broad  and  deep  into  the  coast.  It  is  far  from  be- 
ing land-locked,  and  yet  the  southern  bend  is  suffi- 
ciently sheltered  to  afford  a  safe  and  quiet  anchorage. 
The  town  is  built  within  a  circling  range  of  forest- 
feathered  hills,  and  on  a  plain  that  descends  in  easy 
slopes  to  the  strand  of  the  bay.  A  more  inviting  pic- 
turesque Location  for  a  city  never  entered  a  port's 
dream.  The  buildings  are  reared  of  adobes,  covered 
with  a  white  layer  of  lime  ;  they  are  seldom  over  one 

story  and  a  half,  and  ar namented  with  porti< 

running  the  entire  front.     The  streets  are  broad  but 
irregular,  and  the  hills  around  connect   themselves 

with  the  gleaming  walls  of  cottages  which  as  yel  ex 

ist  only  in  your  imagination. 


388  DECK  AND  PORT. 


The  U.  S.  sloop-of-war  Portsmouth,  J.  B.  Mont- 
gomery commander,  is  at  San  Francisco ;  the  War- 
ren, J.  B.  Hull,  commander,  is  at  Mazatlan.  Our 
flag  is  now  flying  over  Monterey,  San  Francisco, 
Sonoma,  and  Sutter's  Fort.  No  formidable  attempt 
has  been  made  by  the  Californians  to  recapture  any 
of  these  positions.  The  great  body  of  the  inhabit- 
ants seem  but  little  inclined  to  take  up  arms.  They 
have  no  great  affection  for  Mexico,  or  reverence  for 
the  military  chieftains  whom  she  has  sent  to  govern 
them. 

Our  marine  guard,  commanded  by  Lieut.  Zelin, 
and  fifty  sailors  under  the  command  of  Lieut.  Tilgh- 
man,  left  our  ship  to-day  for  duty  on  shore.  It  is 
amusing  to  see  Jack  with  a  carbine  in  his  hand  ;  he 
don't  know  what  to  do  with  it,  whether  to  carry  it  in 
one  hand  or  both,  at  his  side  or  t>n  his  shoulder. 
When  posted  as  a  sentinel,  he  always  forgets  the 
countersign  of  course,  and  if  a  man  looks  pretty  hon- 
est, allows  him  to  pass  ;  but  if  he  comes  in  some  mys- 
terious shape,  he  may  expect  to  be  shot.  One  on  an 
outpost  last  night,  hearing  a  rumpling  sound  among 
the  dry  leaves,  and  catching  glimpses,  by  the  pale 
moonlight,  of  a  form  gliding  behind  this  bush  and 
that,  instead  of  hailing,  "  Who  comes  there  ?"  cried 
out,  "  A  bloody  Indian !"  and  let  off  his  carbine.  The 
guard,  hearing  the  report,  rushed  immediately  to  the 
spot,  where  they  found  a  bullook,  which  had  narrow- 


GLANCES   I\T<>   CALIFORNIA.  889 

ly  escaped  our  sentinel's  bullet.  Jack,  when  shown 
his  horned  antagonist  and  rebuked  for  his  precipitan- 
cy, gruffly  replied,  that  it  was  impossible  to  make  out, 
in  the  night  and  among  the  bushes,  what  sort  of  a 
craft  was  coming  at  him,  and  he  thought  it  best  to 
get  the  first  fire. 

Saturday,  July  18.  The  whole  of  California  is 
in  a  state  of  tumult,  and  was  so  before  our  squadron 
made  a  demonstration  on  Monterey.  The  jealousy 
of  the  government  had  been  roused  by  the  arrival  of 
a  fresh  body  of  emigrants,  who  had  Incited  them- 
selves on  the  Sacramento,  and  by  the  movements  of 
Capt.  Fremont,  whose  scientific  projects  a  disturbed 
imagination  had  converted  into  revolutionary  pur- 
poses. The  emigrants  were  ordered  out  of  the  coun- 
try] with  Capt.  Fremont  and  his  exploring  party  ;  and 
measures  adopted  to  enforce  the  mandate,  liut  the* 
indomitable  captain  and  the  emigrants  were  1 1< »t  thus 
to    be    Ousted    or    overawed.       They    had    the    Anglo- 

Saxon  blood  in  them,  and  decided  thai  a  man  has-  a 
right  to  live  where  he  pleases  on  this  green  earth  of 
God's. 

They  ran  up  a  flag  sufficiently  significant  of  their 
intentions, — a  white  field,  red  border,  with  a  grizzly 
hear  eyeing  a  Bingle  star,  which  threw  its  light  on  tin- 
motto,  ■•  The  Republic  oi  <  California."  To  this  Sag  and 
its  fortunes  they  ple4ged  themselves  in  mutual  confi- 
89  • 


390  DECK  AND  PORT. 


dence,  and  though  a  band  of  only  two  hundred,  pushed 
their  measures  so  vigorously  that  Gen.  Castro,  with  a 
force  of  three  times  their  numbers,  retreated  before 
their  resolute  positions.  They  are  now  within  the  de- 
partment of  Monterey,  and  their  arrival  is  looked  foi 
hourly.  Such  in  brief  is  the  history  of  the  Bear  flag, 
and  of  that  courageous  organization  which  set  the 
ball  of  Anglo-Saxon  supremacy  rolling  in  California. 

Sunday,  July  19.  We  had  divine  service  at  the 
usual  hour.  The  object  of  the  sermon  was  a  plain 
illustration  of  the  text,  "  The  way  of  transgressors  is 
hard."  The  every-day  life  of  the  sailor  is  a  living 
commentary  on  the  truth  of  this  significant  proverb. 
The  hardships  of  his  lot  have  generally  been  entailed 
upon  him  by  a  career  of  folly.  The  recitals  of  his 
errors,  which  are  often  poured  into  my  ears,  are  full 
of  painful  interest.  I  greatly  fear  the  novelties  of  the 
shore,  and  the  excitements  which  reach  us  every  day 
from  all  quarters,  will  dissipate  that  religious  concern 
which  has  prevailed  of  late  among  our  crew. 

Monday,  July  20.  Captain  Fremont  and  his  armed 
band,  with  Lieut.  Gillespie  of  the  marine  corps,  ar- 
rived last  evening  from  their  pursuit  of  Gen.  Castro. 
They  are  two  hundred  strong,  all  well  mounted,  and 
have  some  three  hundred  extra  horses  in  their  train. 
They  defiled,  two  abreast,  through  the  principal  street 


GLANCES  INTO  CALIFORNIA.  .301 

of  the  town.  The  ground  seemed  t<>  tremble  under 
their  heavy  tramp.     The  citizens  glanced  at   them 

through  their  grated  windows.  Their  rifles,  revolv- 
ing pistols,  and  long  knives,  glittered  over  the  dusky 
buckskin  which  enveloped  their  sinewy  limbs,  while 
their  untrimmed  lucks,  flowing  out  from  under  their 
foraging  caps,  and  their  black  beards,  with  white 
teeth  glittering  through,  gave  them  a  wild  savage  as- 
pect.    They  encamped   in  the  skirts  of  the  \\ I> 

which  overhang  the  town.  The  blaze  of  their  watch- 
fires,  as  night  came  on,  threw  its  quivering  light  into 
the  forest  glades,  and  far  out  at  sea.  Their  sentinels 
were  posted  at  every  exposed  point  ;  they  sleep  in 
their  blankets  under  the  trees,  with  their  arms  at 
their  side,  ready  for  the  signal  shot  or  stir  of  the 
crackling  leaf. 

For  let  a  footstep,  scarce  as  loud 
As  rails  tin-  winter's  flake, 
Approach  tlirir  tents,  tli<'_v  wake, 

And  spring  lik<-  lightning  from  the  dead 

Tuesday,  Jolt  21.  The  Levant  has  been  ordered 
to  be  ready  for  sea  with  all  dispatch.  She  is  to  take 
Commodore  Sloat  to  Panama,  where  he  crosses  the 
Isthmus  for  the  United  States.  His  measures  here 
involve  some  responsibility,  as  no  authentic  intelli- 
gence of  a  declaration  of  war  has  reached  us.     Hut 

his  motives  have  been   high  and  patriotic,  and  oil 


392  DECK   AND  PORT. 


tion  opportune  in  the  event  of  national  hostilities. 
The  command  will  now  devolve  on  Commodore 
Stockton ;  what  he  will  do  with  the  California  ques- 
tion, remains  to  be  seen.  Among  the  persons  whose 
influence  is  felt  in  these  affairs,  stands  T.  O.  Larkin, 
Esq.,  U.  S.  Consul  for  many  years  in  this  province, 
and  of  whose  services  I  shall  have  occasion  to  speak 
hereafter. 

Wednesday,  July  22.  Captain  Fremont's  band 
of  riflemen  visited  our  ship  to-day,  and  lunched  with 
us.  Many  of  them  are  trappers  from  the  interior 
wilds,  who  have  never  seen  a  man-of-war  before. 
They  looked  at  our  frowning  battery  with  a  wonder 
for  which  their  trapuiialect  had  no  expression.  The 
Indians  connected  with  the  body,  wanted  to  know 
how  such  an  immense  mass  could  be  put  on  the 
trail.  We  pointed  to  our  sails,  clewed  to  the  yards ; 
they  shook  their  heads  in  incredulity.  They  seemed 
to  think  there  must  be  some  invisible  monster  in  the 
hold,  whose  terrific  energies  caused  the  ship  to  go. 
Our  band  played  some  of  their  most  spirit-stirring 
airs,  but  they  had  as  little  effect  on  these  children  of 
the  wild  as  the  song  of  the  grasshopper.  The  article 
which  seemed  to  interest  them  most,  was  the  rifle  of 
Commodore  Stockton ;  they  handled  it  with  that 
yearning  fondness  which  a  mother  feels  clasping  her 
first-born. 


GLANCES  INTO  CALIFORNIA.  393 

Thursday,  July  23.  The  Collingwood  sailed  to- 
day for  the  Sandwich  Islands.  Many  of  her  officers 
had  clothes  on  shore  in  the  hands  of  washerwomen  ; 
they  were  hurried  off,  some  half  ironed,  some  half 
dry,  and  some  in  the  suds.  Such  are  the  accidents 
which  await  the  linen  of  one  connected  with  a  na- 
tional slup.  He  may  think  himself  fortunate  if  he 
recovers  his  clothes  at  all ;  they  are  often  left  as  con- 
tingent remainders  in  a  man's  will. 

The  Collingwood  has  offered  us  no  molestation . 
Admiral  Seymour  is  an  officer  of  great  amenity  of 
deportment, — has  been  several  times  on  board  the 
Congress :  he  was  much  impressed  with  the  force  of 
our  battery,  and  says  our  ship  is  the  most  powerful 
frigate  afloat  in  the  world.  The  Admiral  and  most 
of  his  officers  are  connected  with  the  English  nobili- 
ty, but  assume  no  airs,  and  are  boon  companions 
wherever  met.  It  has  been  often  stated  by  American 
writers  that  the  Admiral  intended  to  raise  the  Eng- 
lish flag  in  California,  and  would  have  done  it  had  we 
not  stolen  the  march  on  him. )  I  believe  nothing  of 
the  kind;  the  allegation  is  a  mere  assumption,  unwar- 
ranted by  a  solitary  fact.  He  had  no  such  instruc- 
tions from  the  British  ministry :  what  the  English 
might  have  done,  had  they  been  apprized  of  <»ur  fir- 
signs,  is  another  thing ;  what  they  did  do,  was  to 
watch  our  movements.     When  we  had  harpooned 


394  DECK  AND  PORT. 


the  whale,  they  left  us  to  make  the  most  of  its  blub- 
ber and  bones. 

Friday,  July  24.  Capt.  Du  Pont  left  us  to-day  to 
take  command  of  the  Cyane — a  fine  ship,  well  offi- 
cered and  manned.  We  part  with  him  with  much 
regret ;  he  has  been  with  us  in  gale  and  calm,  amidst 
the  ice  of  the  Cape  and  on  the  burning  Line,  and 
cheerfully  shared,  in  his  own  person,  every  hardship 
and  peril.  His  professional  knowledge  and  efficiency, 
with  his  social  qualities  and  unblemished  character, 
have  won  our  unmeasured  confidence  and  esteem. 

Mr.  Livingston,  our  first  lieutenant,  succeeds  to  the 
command,  under  an  appointment  from  Commodore 
Stockton,  and  combines,  with  the  duties  of  this  post, 
those  of  executive  officer.  His  station  is  one  ef  some 
difficulty,  but  he  is  the  better  qualified  for  it  by  his 
previous  services  and  thorough  knowledge  of  the 
crew.  Capt.  Mervin  takes  command  of  the  Savan- 
nah— a  post  to  which  he  is  entitled  by  his  experience 
and  rank.  The  officers  attached  to  this  frigate  are 
an  ornament  to  the  service  ;  there  are  not  wanting 
individuals  among  them  whose  religious  example  has 
been  felt  deep  and  wide. 

Here  the  publication  of  my  journal  must  rest ;  and 
be  resumed  in  another  volume,  under  the  title  of 
"  Three  Years  in  California."    But  without  trenching 


GLANCES  INTO  CALIFORNIA.  30") 

on  the  incidents  sketched  in  that  volume,  I  may 
glance  at  a  few  local  circumstances  which  recent 
events  have   thrown   into   remarkable   prominency. 

The  geographical  features  of  the  country  will  be  de- 
scribed in  their  proper  place;  I  turn  from  these  to  a 
point  which  looms  up,  in  the  fancy  at  least,  like  a 
headland  on  which  a  rosy  twilight  has  poured  its 
golden  charm. 

The  bay  of  San  Francisco  resembles  a  broad  in- 
land lake,  communicating  by  a  narrow  channel  with 
the  ocean.  This  channel, as  the  tradition  of  the  abo- 
rigines runs,  was  opened  by  an  earthquake  which  a 
few  centuries  since  convulsed  the  continent.  The 
town  is  built  on  the  south  bend  of  the  bay,  near  its 
communication  with  the  sea.  Its  site  is  a  succession 
of  barren  sand-hills,  tumbled  up  into  every  variety  of 
shape.  No  levelling  process,  on  a  scale  of  any  mag- 
nitude, has  been  attempted.  The  buildings  roll  up 
and  over  these  sand  ridges  like  a  shoal  of  porpoises 
Over  the  swell  of  a  wave,  only  the  fish  has  much 
the  most  order  in  the  disposal  of  his  head  and  tail. 
More  incongruous  combinations  in  architecture  never 
danced  in  the  dreams  of  men.  Brick  warehouses, 
wooden  shanties,  sheet-iron  huts,  and  shaking  tents, 
are  blended  in  admirable  confusion. 

But  these  grotesque  habitations  have  as  niueh  uni- 
formity and  sobriety  as  the  habits  of  those  who  occu- 
py them.      Hazards  are  made  in  commercial  transac- 


396  DECK   AND  TOTiJ. 


tions  and  projects  of  speculation,  that  would  throw 
Wall-street  into  spasms.  I  have  seen  merchants  pur- 
chase cargoes  without  having  even  glanced  into  the 
invoice.  The  conditions  of  the  sale  were  a  hundred 
per  cent,  profits  to  the  owner,  and  costs.  In  one  car- 
go, when  tumbled  out,  were  found  twenty  thousand 
dollars  in  the  single  article  of  red  cotton  handker- 
chiefs !  "  I'll  get  rid  of  those  among  the  wild  In- 
dians," said  the  purchaser,  with  a  shrug  of  his  shoul- 
ders. "  I've  a  water-lot  which  I  will  sell,"  cries  an- 
other. "  Which  way  does  it  stretch  ?"  inquire  half  a 
a  dozen.  "  Right  under  that  craft  there,"  is  the  re- 
ply. "  And  what  do  you  ask  for  it  ?"  "  Fifteen 
thousand  dollars."  "  I'll  take  it."  "  Then  down  with 
your  dust."  So  the  water-lot,  which  mortal  eyes 
never  yet  beheld,  changes  its  owners  without  chang- 
ing its  fish.  "  I  have  two  shares  in  a  gold  mine," 
cries  another.  "Where  are  they  ?"  inquire  the  crowd. 
"  Under  the  south  branch  of  the  Yuba  river,  which 
we  have  almost  turned,"  is  the  reply.  "  And  what 
will  you  take  ?"  "  Fifteen  thousand  dollars."  "  I'll 
give  ten."  "  Take  them,  stranger."  So  the  two 
shares  of  a  possibility  of  gold  under  a  branch  of  the 
Yuba,  where  the  water  still  rolls  rapid  and  deep,  are 
sold  for  ten  thousand  dollars  paid  down  !  Is  there 
any  thing  in  the  Arabian  Nights  that  surpasses  this  ? 
But  glanqe  at  that  large  wooden  building,  which 
looks  as  if  the  winds  had  shingled  it>  and  the  powers 


GLANCES  INTO  CALIFORNIA.  397 

of  the  air  pinned  its  clapboards  in  a  storm.  Enter, 
and  you  find  a  great  hall  filled  with  tables,  and  a  mot- 
ley group  gathered  around  each.  Some  are  laying 
down  hundreds  and  others  thousands  on  the  turn  of 
a  card.  Each  has  a  bag  of  grain-gold  in  his  hand, 
which  he  must  double  or  lose,  and  is  only  anxious 
to  reach  the  table  where  he  can  make  the  experiment. 
You  would  advise  him  at  least  to  purchase  a  suit  of 
clothes,  or  repair  his  old  ones,  before  he  loses  his  all ; 
but  what  cares  he  for  his  outward  garb,  when  piles 
of  the  yellow  dust  swell  and  glitter  in  his  excited  im- 
agination ?  Down  goes  his  bag  of  gold — and  is  lost ! 
But  does  he  look  around  for  a  rope  or  pistol  that  he 
may  end  his  ruin  ?  No :  the  river  bank,  whore  he 
gathered  that  bag,  has  more ;  so  he  cheers  his  mo- 
mentary despondency  with  a  strong  glass  of  brandy, 
and  is  off  again  for  the.  mines.  He  found  the  gold 
by  good  fortune,  and  has  lost  it  by  bad,  and  now 
considers  himself  about  even  with  the  world.  Such 
is  the  moral  c fleet  of  gold  hunting  on  a  man  whose 
principles  are  not  as  fixed  and  immoveable  as  the 
rock.  It  begins  in  a  lottery  and  ends  in  a  lottery, 
where  the  blanks  outnumber  the  prizes  ten  to  one. 

But  you  are  hungry — want  a  breakfast — turn  into 
a  restaurant — call  for  ham,  eggs,  and  coffee— then 
your  bill — six  dollars!  Your  high  boots,  which  have 
never  seen  a  brush  since  you  first  pat  them  on,  have 
given  out :  you   find  a-pair  that  can  replace  them — 

34 


398  DECK  AND  PORT. 


they  are  a  tolerable  fit,  and  now  what  is  the  price — ■ 
fifty  dollars!  Your  beard  has  not  felt  a  razor  since 
you  went  to  the  mines — it  must  come  off",  and  your 
frizzled  hair  be  clipped.  You  find  a  barber :  his  dull 
shears  hang  in  the  knots  of  your  hair  like  a  sheep- 
shearer's  in  a  fleece  matted  with  burrs — his  razor  he 
straps  on  the  leg  of  his  boot,  and  then  hauls  away — 
starting  at  every  pull  some  new  fountain  of  tears. 
You  vow  you  will  let  the  beard  go — but  then  one  side 
is  partly  off,  and  you  try  the  agony  again  to  get  the 
other  side  something  like  it ;  and  now  what  is  the 
charge  for  this  torture — four  dollars !  Night  is  ap- 
proaching, and  you  must  have  a  place  where  you  can 
sleep  :  to  inquire  for  a  bed  would  be  as  idle  as  to  hunt 
a  pearl  in  the  jungle  of  a  Greenland  bear.  You  look 
around  for  the  lee  of  some  shanty  or  tent,  and  tum- 
ble down  for  the  night ;  but  a  thousand  fleas  dispute 
the  premises  with  you — the  contest  is  hopeless — you 
tumble  out  as  you  tumbled  in,  and  spend  the  remain- 
der of  the  night  in  finding  a  place  not  occupied  bj 
these  aborigines  of  the  soil. 

But  you  are  not  perhaps  a  gold-digger,  as  I  had 
supposed;  you  are  a  supercargo,  and  have  a  valuable 
freight,  which  you  wish  to  land.  You  have  warped 
your  vessel  in  till  her  keel  rakes,  and  yet  you  are  sev- 
eral hundred  yards  off.  Some  lighter  must  be  found 
that  can  skim  these  shallows ;  your  own  boats  will 
not  do  :  after  waiting  two  or  three  weeks,  you  get  the 


GLANCES   INTO  CALIFORNIA.  390 

use  of  a  scow,  called  a  lighter,  for  which  you  pay  one 
hundred  and  fifty  dollars  a  day. 

To-morrow  you  are  going  to  commence  unloading, 
and  wake  betimes ;  but  find  that  during  the  night  ev- 
ery soul  of  your  crew  has  escaped,  and  put  out  for  the 
mines.  You  rush  about  on  shore  to  find  hands,  and 
collect  eight  or  ten  loafers,  who  will  assist  you  for  fif- 
teen dollars  a  day  each.  Your  cargo  must  be  Landed, 
and  you  close  the  bargain,  though  your  fresh  hands 
are  already  half-seas  over.  The  scow  is  shoved  from 
shore,  brought  alongside,  loaded  with  goods,  which 
are  tumbled  in  as  an  Irishman  dumps  a  load  of  dirt, 
and  then  y<>u  up  oars  and  poles  and  push  for  the  land- 
ing ;  but  the  tide  has  ebbed  too  soon :  you  are  only 
halfway,  and  there  your  scow  sticks  fast  in  the  midst 
of  a  great  mud  bottom,  from  which  the  last  ripple  of 
water  has  retreated.  You  cannot  get  forward,  and 
you  are  now  too  late  to  get  back  :  night  is  setting  in 
and  the  rain-clouds  are  gathering  fast ;  down  comes 
a  deluge,  drenching  your  goods,  and  filling  your  open 

scow.  The  returning  tide  will  now  be  of  no  use.  the 
scow  won't  float,  excepl  under  water,  and  thai  is  a 
sort  of  floating  which  don't  suit  you;  skin  for  skin — 
though  in  this  case  not  dry — what  will  m  man  not 
give  for  his  own  lite?  So  out  von  jump,  and  by 
crawling  and  creeping,  make  your  way  through  the 
.mire  to  the  landing,  and  bring  up  against  a  bin.  where 
another  sort  of  wallower  gives  you  a  grunt  of  welcome. 


400  DECK  AND  PORT. 


Your  loafers  must  be  paid  off  in  the  morning,  and 
the  scow  recovered,  or  its  loss  will  cost  you  half  the 
profits  of  your  voyage.  But  the  storm  last  night  has 
driven  another  brig  into  yours ;  and  there  they  both 
are,  like  a  bear  and  bull  that  have  gored  and  crushed 
each  other.  But  "  misery  loves  company,"  and  you 
have  it.  The  storm  which  swamped  your  scow  and 
stove  your  brig  last  night,  has  been  busy  on  shore. 
Piles  of  goods  heaped  up  in  every  street,  are  in  a 
condition  which  requires  wreckers  as  well  as  watch- 
men. But  no  one  here  is  going  to  trouble  himself 
about  your  misfortunes,  nor  much  about  his  own. 
The  reverses  of  to-day  are  to  be  more  than  repaired 
by  the  successes  of  to-morrow.  These  are  only  the 
broken  pickaxes  and  spades  by  which  the  great  mine 
is  to  be  reached.  What  is  the  loss  of  a  few  thousands 
to  one  who  is  so  soon  to  possess  millions  ?  Only  a 
coon  back  in  his  hole,  while  the  buffalo  remains 
within  rifle-shot, — only  a  periwinkle  lost,  while  the 
whale  is  beneath  the  harpoon, — only  a  farthing  can- 
dle consumed,  while  the  dowered  bride,  blushing  in 
beauty  and  bliss,  is  kneeling  at  the  nuptial  altar.  But 
let  that  pass. 

But  you  are  not  alone  in  your  destitution  and  dirt. 
There  are  hundreds  around  you  who  were  quite  as 
daintily  reared,  and  who  are  doing  out  here  what 
they  dodged  at  home.  Do  you  see  that  youth  in  red 
flannel  shirt  and  coarse  brogans,  rollins;  a  wheelbar- 


GLANCES   INTO  CALIFORNIA.  401 

row?  He  was  once  a  clerk  in  a  counting-house  in 
New  York,  and  came  here  to  shovel  up  gold  as  you 
scoop  up  sand.  He  has  been  to  the  mines,  gathered 
no  gold,  and  returned,  but  now  makes  his  ten  dollars 
a  day  by  rolling  that  wheelbarrow;  it  costs  him  six, 
however,  to  live,  and  the  other  four  he  loses  at 
monte. 

See  you  that  >-oung  man  with  a  long  whip  in  his 
hand,  cracking  it  ever  an  ox-team  ?  He  was  one  of 
the  most  learned  geologists,  for  his  age,  in  the  United 
States,  and  <  a«r.f  out  here  to  apply  His  science  to  the 
discovery  of  geld  deposites  ;  but  some  how  his  diving- 
rods  alwa^'j  dipped  wrong — and  now  he  has  taken  a 
rod  about  which  there  is  no  mistake,  so  at  least  think 
his  D.v.l)e.  He  would  accumulate  a  fortune  did  he 
not  Vn«e  it  as  fast  as  made  in  some  phrensied  specula- 
tion. But  look  yonder — do  you  see  that  young  gen- 
tlerren  with  a  string  of  fish,  which  he  offers  for  sale 
He  was  the  best  Greek  and  Latin  scholar  of  his  class 
in  Yale  College;  and  subsequently  one  of  the  most 
promising  members  of  our  bar.  But  he  exchanged 
his  Blackstone  for  a  pick;  and  instead  of  picking  fees 
out  of  his  clients'  pockets,  he  came  here  to  pick  gold 
out  of  the  mines;  but  the  deuce  was  in  it,  for  when- 
ever his  pick  struck  close  upon  a  deposite,  it  was  no 
longer  there!  so  he  exchanged  his  pick  for  a  hook 
and  line,  and  now  angles  tor  pike,  pickerel,  and  perch, 
and  can  describe  each  fish  by  some  apt  line  from  Ca- 
31* 


402  DECK  AND   PORT. 


tullus.  He  would  do  well  at  his  new  piscatory  pro- 
fession, but  for  the  gilded  hook  of  the  gambler.  He 
laughs  at  the  trout  for  darting  at  a  fictitious  fly,  and 
then  chases  a  bait  himself  equally  fanciful  and  false. 

But  look  again — do  you  see  that  pulperia,  with  its 
gathered  groups  of  soldiers  and  sailors,  poets  and  pol- 
iticians, merchants  and  mendicants,  doctors  and  dray- 
men, clerks  and  cobblers,  trappers  and  tinkers. 
That  little  man  who  stands  behind  the  bar  and  deals 
to  each  his  dz-am  of  fire,  was  once  a  preacher,  and 
deemed  almost  a  prophet,  as  he  depicted  the  pangs  of 
that  worm  which  dieth  not ;  but  now  he  has  ex- 
changed that  worm  for  another,  but  preserved  his 
consistency,  for  this  worm,  too,  distilleth  delirium  and 
death.  And  that  thick-set  man  who  stands  in  the 
midst  of  the  crowd,  with  ruby  countenance  and  rev- 
elling eye,  whose  repartee  sets  the  whole  pulperia  in 
a  roar,  and  who  is  now  watching  the  liquor  in  his 
glass  to  see  if  it  stirreth  itself  aright,  once  lectured  in 
the  West  on  the  temptations  of  those  who  tarry  late 
at  the  wine  ;  but  now  his  teetotalism  covers  all  liquors 
as  goodly  gifts  graciously  bestowed.  But  one  brief 
year,  and  some  dame  Quickly  may  describe  his  pale 
exit  as  that  of  his  delirious  prototype, — "  I  saw  him 
fumble  with  the  sheets,  and  play  with  flowers,  and 
smile  upon  his  fingers'  ends." 

And  yet  with  all  these  drawbacks — with  all  these 
gambling-tables,   grog-shops,   shanties,   shavers,   and 


GLANCES  INTO  CALIFORNIA.  403 

fleas,  San  Francisco  is  swelling  into  a  town  of  the 
highest  commercial  importance.  She  commands  the 
trade  of  the  great  valleys  through  which  the  Sacra- 
mento and  San  Joaquin,  with  their  numerous  tribu- 
taries, roll.  She  gathers  to  her  bosom  the  products 
and  manufactures  of  the  United  States,  of  England, 
China,  the  shores  and  islands  of  the  Pacific.  But  let 
us  glance  at  California  as  she  was  a  lew  years  since, 
as  she  is  now,  and  as  she  is  fast  becoming. 

Three  years  ago  the  white  population  of  Cali- 
fornia could  not  have  exceeded  ten  thousand  souls. 
She  has  now  a  population  of  two  hundred  thousand, 
and  a  resistless  tide  of  emigration  rolling  in  through 
the  heart  of  Mexico,  over  the  Isthmus  of  Panama, 
around  Cape  Horn,  and  over  the  steeps  of  the  Rocky 
►Mountains.  Then  the  great  staple  of  the  country 
was  confined  to  wild  cattle;  now  it  is  found  in  ex- 
haustless  mines  of  quicksilver  and  gold.  Then  the 
shipping  which  frequented  her  waters  was  confined 
to  a  few  drogers,  that  waddled  along  her  coast  in 
quest  of  hides  and  tallow  ;  now  the  richest  argosies 
of  the  commercial  world  are  bound  to  her  ports. 

Three  years  ago  the  dwellings  of  her  citizens  were 
reared  under  the  hands  of  Indians,  from  sun-b:iked 
adobes  of  mud  and  straw;  now  a  thousand  hammers 
are  rinmnfron  rafter  and  roof  over  walls  of  iron  and 
brick.  Then  the  plough  which  furrowed  her  fields 
was  the  crotch  of  a  tree,  which  a  stone  or  root  might 


404  DECK  AND  PORT. 


shiver ;  now  the  shares  of  the  New-England  farmer 
glitter  in  her  soil.  Then  the  wheels  of  her  carts 
were  cut  from  the  butts  of  trees,  with  a  hole  in  the 
centre  for  the  rude  axle ;  now  the  iron-bound  wheel 
of  the  finished  mechanic  rolls  over  her  hills  and  val- 
leys. Then  only  the  canoe  of  the  Indian  disturbed 
the  sleeping  surface  of  her  waters ;  now  a  fleet  of 
steamers  traverse  her  ample  rivers  and  bays.  Then 
not  a  schoolhouse;  public  teacher,  magazine,  or  news- 
paper, could  be  found  in  the  whole  territory  ;  now 
they  are  met  with  in  most  of  the  larger  towns. 
Then  the  tastes  and  passions  of  an  idle  throng  ran 
on  the  guitar  and  the  fandango;  now  the  calcula- 
tions of  the  busy  multitudes  turn  to  the  cultured 
field  and  productive  mine.  Then  California  was  a 
dependency  of  Mexico,  and  subject  to  revolution^ 
with  the  success  of  every  daring  military  chieftain  ; 
now  she  is  an  independent  state,  with  an  enlight- 
ened constitution,  which  guaranties  equal  rights  and 
privileges  to  all.  Then  she  was  in  arms  against  our 
flag ;  now  she  unrolls  it  on  the  breeze,  with  the  star 
of  her  own  being  and  pride  glowing  in  the  constella- 
tion which  blazes  on  its  folds. 

Three  years  ago  and  San  Francisco  contained 
only  three  hundred  souls  ;  now  she  has  a  population 
of  twenty-seven  thousand.  Then  a  building  lot 
within  her  limits  cost  fifteen  dollars  ;  now  the  same  lot 
cannot  be  purchased  at  a  less  sum  than  fifteen  thou- 


GLANCES   INTO  CALIFORNIA.  405 

sand.  Then  her  commerce  was  confined  to  a  few 
Indian  blankets,  and  Mexican  reboses  and  beads;  now 
from  two  to  three  hundred  merchantmen  are  unload- 
ing their  costly  cargoes  on  her  quay.  Then  the 
famished  whaler  could  hardly  find  a  temporary  relief 
in  her  markets  ;  now  she  has  phrensied  the  world  with 
her  wealth.  Then  Benicia  was  a  pasture  covered 
with  lowing  herds  ;  now  she  is  a  commercial  mart, 
threatening  to  rival  her  sister  nearer  the  sea.  Then 
Stockton  and  Sacramento  City  were  covered  with 
Wild  oats,  where  the  elk  and  deer  gambolled  at  will  ; 
now  they  are  laced  writh  streets,  and  walled  with  ware- 
houses, through  which  the  great  tide  of  commerce 
rolls  off  into  a  hundred  mountain  glens.  Then  the 
banks  of  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin  were 
cheered  only  by  the  curling  smoke  of  the  Indian's 
hut ;  now  they  throw  on  the  eye  at  every  bend  the 
cheerful  aspect  of  some  new  hamlet  or  town.  Then 
the  silence  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  was  broken  only 
by  the  voice  of  its  streams;  now  every  cavern  and 
clilT  is  echoing  under  the  blows  of  the  sturdy  miner. 
The  wild  horse,  startled  in  his  glen,  leaves  on  the 
hill  the  clatter  of  his  hoofs,  while  the  huge  bear, 
roused  from  his  patrimonial  jungle,  grimly  retires  to 
some  new  mountain  fastness. 

But  I  must  drop  this  contrast  of  the  past  with  the 
present,  and  glance  at  a  lew  tads  which  affect  the 
future.     The  gold   deposites,    which   have   hitherto 


406  DECK   AND  PORT. 


been  discovered,  are  confined  mainly  to  the  banks 
and  beds  of  perpetual  streams,  or  the  bottoms  of  ra- 
vines through  which  roll  the  waters  of  the  transient 
freshet.  These  deposites  are  the  natural  results  of 
the  laws  of  gravitation  ;  the  treasures  which  they 
contain  must  have  been  washed  from  the  slopes  of 
the  surrounding  hills.  The  elevations,  like  spend- 
thrifts, seem  to  have  parted  entirely  with  their  golden 
inheritance,  except  what  may  linger  still  in  the 
quartz.  And  these  gold-containing  quartz  will  be 
found  to  have  their  confined  localities.  They  will 
crown  the  insular  peaks  of  a  mountain  ridge,  or  fret 
the  verge  of  some  extinguished  volcano.  They  have 
never  been  found  in  a  continuous  range,  except  in 
the  dreams  of  enchantment.  You  might  as  well  look 
for  a  wall  of  diamonds,  or  a  solid  bank  of  pearls. 
Nature  has  played  off  many  a  prodigal  caprice  in 
California,  but  a  mountain  of  gold  is  not  one  of  them. 
The  alluvial  gold  will  at  no  distant  day  be  meas- 
urably exhausted,  and  the  miners  be  driven  into  the 
mountains.  Here  the  work  can  be  successfully  pros- 
ecuted only  by  companies  with  heavy  capitals.  All 
the  uncertainties  which  are  connected  with  mining 
operations  will  gather  around  these  enterprises. 
Wealth  will  reward  the  labors  of  the  few,  whose  suc- 
cess was  mainly  the  result  of  good  fortune  ;  while 
disappointment  will  attend  the  efforts  of  the  many, 
equally  skilful  and  persevering.      These  wide  ine- 


GLANCES  INTO   CALIFORNIA.  407 

qualities,  in  the  proceeds  of  the  miner's  labor,  have 
exhibited  themselves  wherever  a  gold  deposite  has 
been  hunted  or  found  in  California.  The  past  is  the 
reliable  prophecy  of  the  future. 

Not  one  in  ten  of  the  thousands  who  have  gone, 
or  may  go,  to  California  to  hunt  for  gold,  will  return 
with  a  fortune.  Still  the  great  tide  of  emigration 
will  set  there,  till  her  valleys  and  mountain  glens 
teem  with  a  hardy,  enterprising  population.  As  the 
gold  deposites  diminish,  or  become  more  difficult  of 
access,  the  quicksilver  mines  will  call  forth  their  un- 
flagging energies.  This  metal  slumbers  in  her  moun- 
tain spurs  in  massive  richness.  The  process  is  sim- 
ple which  converts  it  into  that  form  through  which 
the  mechanic  arts  subserve  the  thousand  purposes  of 
science  and  social  refinement,  while  the  medical  pro- 
fession, through  its  strange  abuse,  keep  up  a  carni- 
val in  the  court  of  Death.  But  for  this  they  who 
mine  the  ore  are  not  responsible  ;  they  will  find  their 
reward  in  the  wealth  which  will  follow  their  labors. 
It  will  be  in  their  power  to  silence  the  hammers  in 
those  mines  which  have  hitherto  monopolized  the 
markets  of  the  world. 

But  the  enterprise  and  wealth  of  California  are  not 
confined  to  her  mines.  Her  ample  forests  of  oak, 
red-wood,  and  pine,  only  wait  the  requisite  machine- 
ry to  convert  them  into  elegant  residences  and 
strong-ribbed    ships.     Her    exhaustless   quarries    of 


408 


DECK   AND  POET. 


granite  and  marble  will  yet  pillar  the  domes  of  me- 
tropolitan splendor  and  pride.  The  hammer  and 
drill  will  be  relinquished  by  multitudes  for  the  plough 
and  sickle.  Her  arable  land,  stretching  through  her 
spacious  valleys  and  along  the  broad  banks  of  her 
rivers,  will  wave  with  the  golden  harvest.  The  rain- 
cloud  may  not  visit  her  in  the  summer  months,  but 
the  mountain  stream  will  be  induced  to  throw  its 
showers  over  her  thirsting  plains. 

Such  was  California  a  few  years  since — such  is 
she  now — and  such  will  she  become,  even  before 
they  who  now  rush  to  her  shores  find  their  footsteps 
within  the  shadows  of  the  pale  realm. 


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